Hi friends,
I am a full timer in my 1990 LD Mid Bath. A few days ago I woke to the sound of my fridge clicking over and over trying to get spark enough to ignite the propane necessary to keep running. This was confusing to me as I have been plugged in to shore power for months while visiting family in the Sierra Nevadas.
When I checked the battery meter on my LED board my battery level showed just one red square at "low." No breakers were tripped and I was indeed still plugged in. No GFI trip at the outlet either. I swapped my power cord (with a 25' extender) into a new outlet and immediately checked my batt levels and I was back to full bars and in "charge" state. A few hours later? Back to low...although the fridge was unaffected.
When I went to my breaker box to investigate further I noticed a humming coming from what my manual calls "Section C", the lower part of the breaker panel. I believe this is my converter/charger.
My converter/charger and 110 receipt/110 fridge is wired into the same 15 amp breaker. When I removed the c/c and left only the 110 receipt/110 fridge I heard no hum and maintained all lights, outlets, and fridge. (while still plugged into shore)
Although I cant figure out why, at the first instance, I lost all power when plugged into shore I have concluded that maybe that I am in need of a new converter/charger.
Given all the details would any of you also agree that my c/c is the issue? I currently have just the 110 wired into that breaker and left the c/c disconnected. So far (3-4 hours) all is still up and running.
Can you please recommend a new c/c? I am willing to invest in the best c/c necessary as I feel this is an integral component to my rig. I am concerned though about fit. Are all of these c/c universal? Will any brand/model simply slip right into that "section C" compartment under the breakers? Or is there something specific I should look for? Also, I have been doing some research and discovered smart vs dumb converters. Do any of you have an opinion there? Seems like 4 stage smart is the way to go but I am so new at all of this I'd love a pro's opinion.
Thank you all so much for your time and help!!
Mike
Hi friends,
I am a full timer in my 1990 LD Mid Bath. A few days ago I woke to the sound of my fridge clicking over and over trying to get spark enough to ignite the propane necessary to keep running. This was confusing to me as I have been plugged in to shore power for months while visiting family in the Sierra Nevadas.
When I checked the battery meter on my LED board my battery level showed just one red square at "low." No breakers were tripped and I was indeed still plugged in. No GFI trip at the outlet either. I swapped my power cord (with a 25' extender) into a new outlet and immediately checked my batt levels and I was back to full bars and in "charge" state. A few hours later? Back to low...although the fridge was unaffected.
When I went to my breaker box to investigate further I noticed a humming coming from what my manual calls "Section C", the lower part of the breaker panel. I believe this is my converter/charger.
My converter/charger and 110 receipt/110 fridge is wired into the same 15 amp breaker. When I removed the c/c and left only the 110 receipt/110 fridge I heard no hum and maintained all lights, outlets, and fridge. (while still plugged into shore)
Although I cant figure out why, at the first instance, I lost all power when plugged into shore I have concluded that maybe that I am in need of a new converter/charger.
Given all the details would any of you also agree that my c/c is the issue? I currently have just the 110 wired into that breaker and left the c/c disconnected. So far (3-4 hours) all is still up and running.
Can you please recommend a new c/c? I am willing to invest in the best c/c necessary as I feel this is an integral component to my rig. I am concerned though about fit. Are all of these c/c universal? Will any brand/model simply slip right into that "section C" compartment under the breakers? Or is there something specific I should look for? Also, I have been doing some research and discovered smart vs dumb converters. Do any of you have an opinion there? Seems like 4 stage smart is the way to go but I am so new at all of this I'd love a pro's opinion.
Thank you all so much for your time and help!!
Mike
Mike, I will allow our forum technical experts to give you advice, but I want to welcome you to LDOF and hope you get your questions answered soon.
Chris
Can you please recommend a new c/c?
Assuming you need a new one - something I leave to others to help you troubleshoot - you might give these guys a call.
BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics (http://www.bestconverter.com/)
They were referred to me by other happy LD customers and treated me right. Very knowledgeable, great prices and shipped ASAP. Tell them what you have, they'll advise what will work.
I would second the recommendation for best converters, although I’m not sure you’re there yet.
I didn’t 100% follow what is going on, probably because I’m not familiar with LD wiring from that vintage, but are you sure that the batteries are well maintained and holding a good charge?
A few months on shore power with a 90’s era converter could have boiled off some water and caused problems.
Rich
‘03 MB in NC
With the limited information provided,I suggest having a qualified electrician check and tighten the wires on the breakers and busbars inside the Power Center's 120-VAC section. There may be a loose connection or a damaged circuit breaker that is causing the intermittent power problem.
It is not uncommon to find loose and sometimes burnt wires and circuit breakers, inside the Power Center..
The humming noise is normal for an operating converter.
Power Center problems can usually be repaired and not need replacement. The converter can be replaced separately.
Your batteries should also be tested.
Larry
Larry, thank you so much for your advice. I am self taught in all areas of electrical work and try to do my best to tackle the simple and basic stuff before calling in the pros. Can you elaborate what you mean by testing the batteries? How can I do this by myself and what should I be looking for? The batteries installed appear to be marine batteries and were added new when I bought my rig 3 years ago. I'm not sure they are the kind that require filling. There doesn't seem to be a way to do that as the batteries themselves appear sealed.
Do you have a battery disconnect switch installed? It would be located in the battery compartment, connecting the two batteries. If so, jiggle the knob, or switch it several times. They have been known to fail due to poor contacts, and the symptoms can be similar to what you describe.
Steve
"My converter/charger and 110 receipt/110 fridge is wired into the same 15 amp breaker. When I removed the c/c and left only the 110 receipt/110 fridge I heard no hum and maintained all lights, outlets, and fridge. (while still plugged into shore)
Although I cant figure out why, at the first instance, I lost all power when plugged into shore I have concluded that maybe that I am in need of a new converter/charger."
Just my two cents on this but if your fridge started working when you left the cc out of the loop it seems the issue is in the cc itself.
I would suggest just talking to Randy @ Best and get on with it. He set me up with my GD 6 years ago and it still works perfectly.
The problems with troubleshooting is you can spend/waste a lot of time/mental energy trying to hunt down the source(s), when the easiest course is to just replace the main suspect.
Now, this of course is moderated by cost, in that it's not a process suggested when parts are expensive. But electronics all share one common characteristic: they keep getting cheaper. Don't recall the price of my GD, but I think it was in the range of $100 bucks.
Replacing the unit also gives you a chance (and motivation) to do as Larry suggested, and start checking & tightening everything in the battery/charging system.
The problems with troubleshooting is you can spend/waste a lot of time/mental energy trying to hunt down the source(s), when the easiest course is to just replace the main suspect.
Some of us are gluttons for punishment and thrive on trouble shooting. I have one of the first chainsaws ever made. Takes two men to run it and someday it will run, well maybe. Been working on it and trying to find parts for a couple of years now and I may die trying to get this thing running but ..... :D
I would suggest just talking to Randy @ Best and get on with it. He set me up with my GD 6 years ago and it still works perfectly.
The problems with troubleshooting is you can spend/waste a lot of time/mental energy trying to hunt down the source(s), when the easiest course is to just replace the main suspect.
I don't suggest changing parts until the cause of the problem(s) are solved.
Anyone who has done a lot of electrical troubleshooting knows there are dozens of possible causes, many of which are not immediately noticeable.
The issue could be as simple as a bad connection or battery switch.
This is why I somewhat restrain myself from remote electrical troubleshooting discussions, there are too many possibilities and not enough information to pick the right one.
Larry
"My converter/charger and 110 receipt/110 fridge is wired into the same 15 amp breaker. When I removed the c/c and left only the 110 receipt/110 fridge I heard no hum and maintained all lights, outlets, and fridge. (while still plugged into shore)
Although I cant figure out why, at the first instance, I lost all power when plugged into shore I have concluded that maybe that I am in need of a new converter/charger."
Just my two cents on this but if your fridge started working when you left the cc out of the loop it seems the issue is in the cc itself.
some new info:
the fridge DID work when I pulled the cc out of the loop...until it didn't. A few hours after this post I returned to find my fridge completely powerless. Dead.
My next experiment was to run an extension cord from my fridge directly into shore power and then add all wires back into breaker. When I went to sleep around midnight last night my battery levels showed a charge state, the little hum that Larry said was normal had returned and all seemed well. I woke about an hour ago (8 hours later) to find the batteries totally dead again. I flipped the breaker off...waited 5 seconds or so and flipped it back on...batteries back to charge state.
My limited knowledge tells me that perhaps I should start with replacing my breaker? Seems like a quick and cheap step along the process of elimination.
You guys have all been so helpful. The good thing here is that I am not on the road and actually have the time and space to troubleshoot this. I welcome it. I view these kinds of problems as an excuse to learn more and become better acquainted with my rig. I've picked up so many little mechanical skills in the last few years just by being an owner of an LD of an older vintage. For me, some.of this electrical stuff is like trying to understand a new language. I know my rig is trying to tell me something and if I become a bit more fluent at least I can decipher something that needs fixing from something that needs replacing. The internet has been invaluable for this! :) I appreciate all of you.
Mike, I will allow our forum technical experts to give you advice, but I want to welcome you to LDOF and hope you get your questions answered soon.
Chris
Appreciate you, Chris!
I would second the recommendation for best converters, although I’m not sure you’re there yet.
I didn’t 100% follow what is going on, probably because I’m not familiar with LD wiring from that vintage, but are you sure that the batteries are well maintained and holding a good charge?
A few months on shore power with a 90’s era converter could have boiled off some water and caused problems.
Rich
‘03 MB in NC
Seems to me that I may have a confluence of issues at the moment. My main problem is keeping my batteries at a charge state. But through all of this trial and error I've learned that when the batteries come off of charging it isn't very long (2-3 hours) that my charge level sinks to LOW. I understand now why Larry says it's hard to sleuth this kind of thing out remotely. So many variables. But I haven't lost my spirit yet! Still really interested to find exactly what my problem or problems are.
Do you have a battery disconnect switch installed? It would be located in the battery compartment, connecting the two batteries. If so, jiggle the knob, or switch it several times. They have been known to fail due to poor contacts, and the symptoms can be similar to what you describe.
Steve
I wish it was something this easy. I searched my batt compartment and no switch or breaker or anything beyond batts and cables. I also referred to my manual and no mention of a disconnect switch. BUT maybe this would be a good mod for the future.
Thanks for thinking out loud, Steve!
some new info:
the fridge DID work when I pulled the cc out of the loop...until it didn't. A few hours after this post I returned to find my fridge completely powerless. Dead.
My next experiment was to run an extension cord from my fridge directly into shore power and then add all wires back into breaker. When I went to sleep around midnight last night my battery levels showed a charge state, the little hum that Larry said was normal had returned and all seemed well. I woke about an hour ago (8 hours later) to find the batteries totally dead again. I flipped the breaker off...waited 5 seconds or so and flipped it back on...batteries back to charge state.
My limited knowledge tells me that perhaps I should start with replacing my breaker? Seems like a quick and cheap step along the process of elimination.
Sounds like you are systematically tracking this down.
Seems to me that I may have a confluence of issues at the moment.
I hate it when that happens!
"My next experiment was to run an extension cord from my fridge directly into shore power..."
I am a little confused as to why you thought this step necessary! Okay with connecting one end of the 'extension' cord to shore power, but where exactly did you connect the other end (at the fridge)??
And are you aware that the fridge needs both AC and 12v, the very thing that seems to be "low"? ::)
"My next experiment was to run an extension cord from my fridge directly into shore power..."
I am a little confused as to why you thought this step necessary! Okay with connecting one end of the 'extension' cord to shore power, but where exactly did you connect the other end (at the fridge)??
And are you aware that the fridge needs both AC and 12v, the very thing that seems to be "low"? ::)
I wasn't aware of that. I figured once you plugged in AC took over. I learned something today.
"My next experiment was to run an extension cord from my fridge directly into shore power..."
I am a little confused as to why you thought this step necessary! Okay with connecting one end of the 'extension' cord to shore power, but where exactly did you connect the other end (at the fridge)??
And are you aware that the fridge needs both AC and 12v, the very thing that seems to be "low"? ::)
On the exterior of my rig there is a panel that accesses the fridge components. Inside of that compartment is a 110v receptacle that the fridge is plugged into. I unplugged that cord, connected an extension and ran directly to an outlet outside of the house. That way I can still trouble shoot without losing all my frozen and refrigerated goods. Am I missing something? Was this a silly thing to do?
I wasn't aware of that. I figured once you plugged in AC took over. I learned something today.
Yes. I also was unaware. Usually as soon as shore power takes over my fridge switches from "gas" to "ac". My thinking here was let's just get the fridge completely out of the loop for groceries sake haha. So is this true in every case? Without 12v my fridge will not run on AC alone? Then why when I woke up this morning with no 12v was my fridge just fine being run directly to shore? (learning new little tidbits here)
On the exterior of my rig there is a panel that accesses the fridge components. Inside of that compartment is a 110v receptacle that the fridge is plugged into. I unplugged that cord, connected an extension and ran directly to an outlet outside of the house. That way I can still trouble shoot without losing all my frozen and refrigerated goods. Am I missing something? Was this a silly thing to do?
Not if it's working.
While the refrigerator cooling section can be powered by either 120-VAC, provided by the generator or shore power, or propane, the control board is powered by 12-VDC, provided by the chassis battery or the converter. Besides the control board, the refrigerator's gas valve is also powered by 12-VDC.
The battery needs a minimum charge to operate the refrigerator's control board.
As mentioned before, I suspect the problem is in the 120-VAC section of the Power Center.
An intermittent disrupting of the converter's power could allow the battery to discharge to the point where the refrigerator's control board cannot operate, even if the refrigerator has a good source of propane or 120-VAC.
A badly discharged battery may be adding another layer of confusion to your problem.
Larry
So theoretically and apparently in practice you can run your refrigerator on AC alone but the lights on the control board won't work. Would this also effect temperature control and lead to freezing everything in the refrigerator?
"you can run your refrigerator on AC alone but the lights on the control board won't work."
If I understand correctly, it would not cool at all. It isn't just those display-board lights that are powered by 12 VDC; the "brains" of the fridge--its control board--needs 12 V in order to function. Without that, nothing would work. Is that right, Larry?
"I unplugged that cord, connected an extension and ran directly to an outlet outside of the house..."
That 'receptacle' inside the exterior panel is the 'shore power source' for the fridge. The cord you removed from that receptacle is the line that provides power to the fridge. I'm hoping it was that disconnected cord to which you connected the 'extension'. Not sure what would have happened were you to plug the extension into the receptacle, outside of creating a parallel path. I tremble to think of it.
Those folks feeding you useful info know far more than I about what the fridge needs to operate. ;)
So theoretically and apparently in practice you can run your refrigerator on AC alone but the lights on the control board won't work. Would this also effect temperature control and lead to freezing everything in the refrigerator?
No, 12-volt power must be constantly be present for the refrigerator to operate. The control board and gas valve use 12-VDC power only. The control boards decides which power source is used to heat the refrigerator's boiler.
The control board has relays that switches the 12-VDC gas valve or 120-VAC heater on and off. The control board needs to be powered for the relays to operate.
Larry
I read and reread your post and I have run this through my head a couple times. You have a main 30A breaker and then a 15A and maybe a couple 20A breakers which feed various 120V circuits in the coach. The converter is powered off of one breakers other than the main breaker. It should be easy to tell which one with the front cover off. Power disconnected of course. I would check all of the line side of the breakers to make sure all connections are tight and the breakers are plugged into the buss tight. If they all are, a guy might want to get a new breaker that feeds the converter and what ever else is on it , probably the 15A.
Did you have 110V everywhere you were supposed to when you were hooked to shore power such as A/C, microwave and 110V outlets?
No, 12-volt power must be constantly be present for the refrigerator to operate. The control board and gas valve use 12-VDC power only. The control boards decides which power source is used to heat the refrigerator's boiler.
The control board has relays that switches the 12-VDC gas valve or 120-VAC heater on and off. The control board needs to be powered for the relays to operate.
Larry
But doesn't this get back to the main controller board? If the converter isn't recharging the 12VDC batteries (efficiently) and/or has (intermittent) problems routing direct 120AC to the reefer, then the main unit could be the culprit.
With electronics, I feel it's best just to yank out anything over 10 years old. If the OP has the original converter, it's going on 30 years old. Even Russia* has gotten around to replacing some of their old avionics - LOL. Same holds true for the water heater - boards are so cheap, they should be upgraded anyway as a matter of course.
Call Randy, explain the problem, and see what he has to say.
*My dad was one of the original 'cold warriors' up in Santa clara before it got rebranded as the Silicon valley. He worked on top secret electronics/comm development during the good old USSR days. After he retired - and presumably after some info was de-classed - he told me a story of some captured Soviet gear from the 70s. Turns out it was just re-purposed German gear from WWII. Yep, tubes and all - truly pathetic.
But doesn't this get back to the main controller board? If the converter isn't recharging the 12VDC batteries (efficiently) and/or has (intermittent) problems routing direct 120AC to the reefer, then the main unit could be the culprit.
The converter MAY be the culprit but there are other potential sources of the problem that still need to be checked before throwing parts at the problem. To replace parts without first establishing the cause of the problem is poor troubleshooting.
It has not been established that a bad connection or breaker in the Power Center isn't the source of the problem.
The Converter may be in good condition but doesn't seem to consistantly receive the needed voltage to change the chassis battery.
Until the PO determines the cause or provides more useful information, we are guessing at the actual cause.
I have a feeling that a knowledgable tech, with a voltmeter, could determine the problem in a short time.
Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be the situation here.
Larry
"Am I missing something? Was this a silly thing to do?"
Instead of connecting a separate 'extension cord' would it not have been wiser to use a Multimeter (VOM) to check for AC power at the receptacle? If there indeed was power present at that receptacle it most assuredly was reaching the fridge. ::)
I read and reread your post and I have run this through my head a couple times. You have a main 30A breaker and then a 15A and maybe a couple 20A breakers which feed various 120V circuits in the coach. The converter is powered off of one breakers other than the main breaker. It should be easy to tell which one with the front cover off. Power disconnected of course. I would check all of the line side of the breakers to make sure all connections are tight and the breakers are plugged into the buss tight. If they all are, a guy might want to get a new breaker that feeds the converter and what ever else is on it , probably the 15A.
Did you have 110V everywhere you were supposed to when you were hooked to shore power such as A/C, microwave and 110V outlets?
First off, thanks for taking the time to read and re-read my layman's description of what I'm struggling with. I am actually out picking up a breaker at the moment so I can at least rule that out if my trouble continues.
Yes, I had and continue to have 110 power to all outlets, microwave and A/C. That power has never been interrupted or diminished.
Just a thought!
Having added solar to my 1988 MB which still has the Magnatek 6336 single voltage 36 amp converter, I decided to install a double 15 or 20 amp breaker and separate the converter from the 120 volt outlets.
Reason #1: Simplified trouble shooting. The ATS was failing at the time. So it eliminated the click from the 12 volt transfer relay in the 6336.
Reason #2 : Allowed me to turn off the converter and prevent the 6 amp charging, circuit from boiling the batteries down as had happened with the previous owner(3 years on shore power). The Go Power 30 solar controller was was providing the three stage charging while in uncovered storage.
Rodney, this PWM controller is not as effective as MPPT controllers when the battery charge is low, so if you are relying on solar alone, an upgrade would help. Not sure what you mean by the '12V relay'. If by ATS you are referring to the transfer switch, the relay runs on 120 vac. Also, upgrading the converter 12V section to a multi-stage unit is pretty easy and relatively inexpensive. Using a Pro-Fill battery watering system makes maintenance a snap.
Steve
to update everyone: I've replaced the breaker that is connected to the charger/converter and 110v receipt. My LED display showed batts in charge state but that only lasted a few minutes until the reading dropped down to one red square indicating a low batt state. I now have an external trickle charge connected to my house batteries and I'm at about 70% (reading on trickle charger) after an hour of charging. Additionally, my LED display inside the coach indicates the batteries are in a charge state. I also get this reading when the batteries are being charged by the alternator.
To sum up: the only time I cannot maintain a charge state is when I am relying on shore power or generator power. I have an appointment with a technician next week to take a look at things and get to the bottom of things. I will be sure to update this thread with what he finds. I appreciate all of you chiming in with your advice.
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the update.
If it were me, I would replace those 3 year old "marine" batteries with new true deep cycle batteries. You mentioned in the 5th post of this thread that you thought they were "marine" batteries and they were sealed with no way to check water level or condition of the electrolyte. If your batteries are bad, with some failed cells, no amount of charging will bring them back to life. And I would not rely on the motorhome's display to tell you the condition of your batteries. Use a voltmeter to read the volts your batteries are putting out without being plugged in to shore power. Based on your posts, I really think you have battery failure.
I don't know if your vintage of Lazy Daze came with one or two batteries for the motorhome, (I am not referring to the engine battery). Most Laze Dazes that I am familiar with have two 6 volt deep cycle batteries wired to make 12 volts. These are usually referred to as "golf cart" batteries. Probably the least expensive place to get these is a Costco where they seem to have been selling Interstate golf cart batteries supposedly made by Trojan. Not all Costcos sell them though or they are a seasonal item.
Me? I would find a golf cart dealer that sells Trojans and get those. It could be you have other problems like the charger/converter but I would just replace those batteries first.
Steve K
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the update.
If it were me, I would replace those 3 year old "marine" batteries with new true deep cycle batteries. You mentioned in the 5th post of this thread that you thought they were "marine" batteries and they were sealed with no way to check water level or condition of the electrolyte. If your batteries are bad, with some failed cells, no amount of charging will bring them back to life. And I would not rely on the motorhome's display to tell you the condition of your batteries. Use a voltmeter to read the volts your batteries are putting out without being plugged in to shore power. Based on your posts, I really think you have battery failure.
I don't know if your vintage of Lazy Daze came with one or two batteries for the motorhome, (I am not referring to the engine battery). Most Laze Dazes that I am familiar with have two 6 volt deep cycle batteries wired to make 12 volts. These are usually referred to as "golf cart" batteries. Probably the least expensive place to get these is a Costco where they seem to have been selling Interstate golf cart batteries supposedly made by Trojan. Not all Costcos sell them though or they are a seasonal item.
Me? I would find a golf cart dealer that sells Trojans and get those. It could be you have other problems like the charger/converter but I would just replace those batteries first.
Steve K
thanks Steve. do you think a place like Camping World would have the kind of batteries I need?
thanks Steve. do you think a place like Camping World would have the kind of batteries I need?
Best thing to do is contact golf cart stores. I got mine on sale for under a hundred bucks
Best thing to do is contact golf cart stores. I got mine on sale for under a hundred bucks
Thanks Sawyer. I just found a gold cart dealer near me. Other than asking for 2 deep cycle 6 volt batteries are there any other details I should look for when purchasing these?
Thanks Sawyer. I just found a gold cart dealer near me. Other than asking for 2 deep cycle 6 volt batteries are there any other details I should look for when purchasing these?
Ask them to test the batteries you have. That way you will know if you really need new ones.
You need to find out how your RV battery compartment is wired. If you did indeed have 2 12v marine batteries, putting 2 6v batteries in their place will cause different problems. The golf cart place should be able to figure this out very quickly.
You can use either 2 12v or 2 6v batteries, but they need to be wired in a slightly different way. 2 6V batteries is commonly accepted as a better option and modern LD's come wired this way from the factory.
My suggestion is to start by asking the golf cart people to take test your batteries and make a recommendation.
They might be willing to take a look at your whole situation and make a suggestion. I would not be above showing up with some christmas themed baked goods to encourage them :)
Rich
'03 MB in NC
" I just found a gold cart dealer near me. Other than asking for 2 deep cycle 6 volt batteries are there any other details I should look for when purchasing these?"
Mike, my 2003 Lazy Daze came with 2 Trojan T 105 (6 volt) batteries when I bought it from Lazy Daze. That is what I have used ever since. When looking for replacement batteries, make sure you are getting fresh batteries that will fit your battery compartment. When I say fresh, I mean that you should not purchase batteries that have been sitting around for more than 6 months or so. Most golf cart dealer get frequent battery deliveries, there should be a date or marking of some sort indicating what month they were built.
The most common golf cart batteries are flooded cell batteries meaning they have removeable caps to check the electrolyte level. I would suggest you purchase a battery watering device like the Pro-fill system that allows you to keep the batteries filled with distilled water easily. Camping World sells that system as well as deep cycle batteries. They are not my first choice for batteries, that would be a gold cart dealer.
Good luck,
Steve K.
to update:
Had an electrician look at things today. He confirmed that my charger/converter has failed as it is putting out 18 volts. When he tested the batteries he found that they were only putting out 10-10.5 volts. He wasn't able to determine why the 18 volts wasn't showing up on the battery test but suggested that I remove the charger/converter from the loop and connect a trickle charge to my house batteries in the mean time.
His overall suggestion was to replace the charger/converter first and then replace the 2 batteries. He recommended an Ioda charger/converter but I don't think that particular brand will fit in place of the old one. I guess he really likes the Iodas. He doesn't make any $ on them and told me I could just grab one on Amazon but I'm not very psyched on modifying the interior of my coach to accommodate this new coneverter.
Is there a charger/converter that fits comfortably in that compartment that I can swap it out with?
Additionally, the over voltage explains why in the last week I have had 3 bulbs in my 12v lighting fixtures burn out. I didn't mention that here because I didn't think that issue was related.
45 Amp Kit For 6300 Series (http://www.bestconverter.com/45-Amp-Kit-For-6300-Series_p_46.html#.XBmSkuJ7lhE)
This is the model everyone uses, and it fits exactly in the space the current 12V module occupies. It features multi-stage charging, and supplies up to 45 Amps. You could fit the 55A model too without upgrading wiring. Your electrician does not sound like he is up to the task if he cannot trace the '18V' he measured.
Steve