I don't know enough about this to even formulate a coherent question, so I used photos. I am going on the assumption that the problem is with the fuses. The only places I found fuse 'boxes' were under the dash on driver side and in the inverter box... pretty sure the inverter fuses are not involved, but just in case.
All the lights shown worked when I got the unit in Jan 2018. They are the same as shown when the ignition is in 'accessories' position and when the engine is running, (after turning on the headlights).
ALL the other exterior lights work, to include, the side lights, tail lights, back up lights, brake lights, tag light,, head lights and high beams. The dash lights also work.
Don't know if it is pertinent, but the battery died and was replaced in early June. (Battery died because I left the ignition switch in the 'accessories' position.)
I do not have an owner's manual so I have no idea which fuses are related to which systems.
Can anyone tell me ;
1) if I am on the right track thinking it is fuse related
2) what the lights shown are called (so I have a clue as to what to google up)
3) where I might find information on which fuses are related to which systems (schematic)
4) if it is not fuse related, where should I start looking
5) if there are other fuse 'boxes' I missed.
Photos 1 and 2 show;
the lights that are out.
Photos 3 and 4 show;
The two places I found fuse "boxes".
Photo 5 shows,
current battery and hook up
I don't know enough about this to even formulate a coherent question, so I used photos. I am going on the assumption that the problem is with the fuses. The only places I found fuse 'boxes' were under the dash on driver side and in the inverter box... pretty sure the inverter fuses are not involved, but just in case.
All the lights shown worked when I got the unit in Jan 2018. They are the same as shown when the ignition is in 'accessories' position and when the engine is running, (after turning on the headlights).
ALL the other exterior lights work, to include, the side lights, tail lights, back up lights, brake lights, tag light,, head lights and high beams. The dash lights also work.
Don't know if it is pertinent, but the battery died and was replaced in early June. (Battery died because I left the ignition switch in the 'accessories' position.)
I do not have an owner's manual so I have no idea which fuses are related to which systems.
Can anyone tell me ;
1) if I am on the right track thinking it is fuse related
2) what the lights shown are called (so I have a clue as to what to google up)
3) where I might find information on which fuses are related to which systems (schematic)
4) if it is not fuse related, where should I start looking
5) if there are other fuse 'boxes' I missed.
Photos 1 and 2 show;
the lights that are out.
Photos 3 and 4 show;
The two places I found fuse "boxes".
Photo 5 shows,
current battery and hook up
Were it fuse related, all the lights (called marker lights) would be out. Have you checked the bulbs to see if they are burned out?
Chris
Were it fuse related, all the lights (called marker lights) would be out. Have you checked the bulbs to see if they are burned out?
That is what I would assume too. The running light often are not bad, their connection to the socket is dirty or not making contact.
Use a ladder, to access the lights, snap of the covers and wiggle the bulbs. Have a few replacements too, they do burn out.
Make sure to coat the lamp's contacts with dielectric grease to reduce future problems.
You could also check for voltage at the lamp's contacts using a 12-volt two light or voltmeter..
FYI, there should be another fuse box under the hood, on the driver's side.
Larry
"That is what I would assume too."
All that Larry said and more...! And while you are at it, those bulbs are available as LEDs. Now would be the time to make changes. ;) ;D
You might also want to check the running light lenses for cracks or chips or UV damage around the edge; these are not usually visible unless one is very close to the light and/or pulls off the lens to examine it. If the lens is cracked or doesn't snap it tightly, water and dirt and can enter and cause the light to fail.
New lenses are cheap; after checking the bulbs (or replacing them with LEDs), cleaning the entire fixture, and greasing the bulb base, you might want to replace the lenses.
This site offers the best prices I found for Peterson 100-15A lenses:
PM 100-15A Amber Lens Round Clearance/Side Marker Replacement Lens – FoxTail... (http://www.foxtaillights.com/product/pmc-100-15a/)
Here’s what I got, the lights are called Marker/running lights, I need to check the bulbs, check voltage at bulb sockets, check lenses for degradation, replace with Peterson 100-15A lenses, clean bulb contacts and use dielectric grease before plugging any bulbs back in, upgrade to LEDs, look for another fuse box under hood.
Did I miss anything?
I am sure there is degradation in the lenses because other plastic parts like the vent caps and interior antenna handle/spring/rotator have already exploded and been replaced by yours truly. (re vent cap replacements…. picture me crawling along the roof on hands and knees, with tools and vent caps gorilla taped to my person, while kinda whining, but not loudly).
Any links or part numbers for replacement bulbs?
Are the marker lights considered to be part of the chassis or part of the coach? IE, could I use my Chilton for a guide on these procedures or would they be in the LD manual? (I lent my Chilton to the neighbor, so I don’t have it available right now).
Any tips on removing the lenses?
AND THANK YOU ALL!!! Excellent info!! and here's a pix to give you a smile.
Hi Alice. No your fuses are all good. The other fuse box that Larry mentioned are bus main fuses (large ones). They are good but you do need to know where that box is also.
The problem is the design of the marker lights themselves. Petersen just swaged a ring terminal into contact with the socket base connector. That's like you holding two wires together with your fingers for a few years. (Gee, it worked for a few weeks here in the design area.... by the time it goes bad it'll be out of warranty and we can sell more!)
It takes some soldering experience and a little practice to fix them in situ, did I mention not falling off the roof. This is the LED substitute I used as a short term fix. 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Tower - Miniature Wedge Base | Super Bright LEDs (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/)
Amber for the front, red for the back. A flat blade screwdriver will pop off the lens covers. Petersen no longer makes the fixture or lens covers, but residual stock is still available online. I used FindItParts.com.
Part of the Ford chassis, the marker lights front and back, and brake lights, that are on all the time, (not the lights that go on when you step on the brakes) are supplied by LD, so they won't be covered in the Ford manual.
The Peterson part # 100-15A, the 'A' stands for amber, 'R' is for red.
I included a picture of one I fixed, sorry about it being fuzzy, a depth of field issue, and hanging from a ladder. The bulb filament evaporates and coats the inside of the bulb, upper left, and the bulb assembly is hanging by one wire. I'm presently working on mass producing a replacement disc with 4 surface mounted LED's, to replace the Insides. My pc board designer is having some health issues, so maybe in a month or so i'll have some test samples, and pictures. RonB
"Are the marker lights considered to be part of the chassis or part of the coach?"
If Ford made it, it's chassis, if LD provided it's coach.
Like Ron said: Use a flat blade screwdriver to pop those lens off, you should see a slot somewhere around the perimeter of the lens base. Put the flat blade in there and twist. Once the lens is off there's no telling what you'll find inside. :o
A handy source for miscellaneous parts is:
Trailer Hitches & Vehicle Accessories (800)298-8924 (https://www.etrailer.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqarbBRBtEiwArlfEIFSw7QM-tPWo9xzaBCjAlGvaeCrj-zGiURscrblBljUcMWg6rhJgEhoCONMQAvD_BwE)
Hi Alice. No your fuses are all good. The other fuse box that Larry mentioned are bus main fuses (large ones). They are good but you do need to know where that box is also.
The problem is the design of the marker lights themselves. Petersen just swaged a ring terminal into contact with the socket base connector. That's like you holding two wires together with your fingers for a few years. (Gee, it worked for a few weeks here in the design area.... by the time it goes bad it'll be out of warranty and we can sell more!)
It takes some soldering experience and a little practice to fix them in situ, did I mention not falling off the roof. This is the LED substitute I used as a short term fix. 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Tower - Miniature Wedge Base | Super Bright LEDs (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/)
Amber for the front, red for the back. A flat blade screwdriver will pop off the lens covers. Petersen no longer makes the fixture or lens covers, but residual stock is still available online. I used FindItParts.com.
Part of the Ford chassis, the marker lights front and back, and brake lights, that are on all the time, (not the lights that go on when you step on the brakes) are supplied by LD, so they won't be covered in the Ford manual.
The Peterson part # 100-15A, the 'A' stands for amber, 'R' is for red.
I included a picture of one I fixed, sorry about it being fuzzy, a depth of field issue, and hanging from a ladder. The bulb filament evaporates and coats the inside of the bulb, upper left, and the bulb assembly is hanging by one wire. I'm presently working on mass producing a replacement disc with 4 surface mounted LED's, to replace the Insides. My pc board designer is having some health issues, so maybe in a month or so i'll have some test samples, and pictures. RonB
HOly COW!! That is unbelievable!! (pix) Now I know what to expect!! I'm pretty good with electrics and I can solder if I have to but I try to avoid it because I always end up with a new burn scar or two.
It might be another month before I can do the lights because it 90 degrees by 6am around here.
I will definitely post some pix when I do work on them!!
THANK YOU!!
"Are the marker lights considered to be part of the chassis or part of the coach?"
A handy source for miscellaneous parts is:
Trailer Hitches & Vehicle Accessories (800)298-8924 (https://www.etrailer.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqarbBRBtEiwArlfEIFSw7QM-tPWo9xzaBCjAlGvaeCrj-zGiURscrblBljUcMWg6rhJgEhoCONMQAvD_BwE)
Excellent site!!!! My wallet has already started hemorrhaging....
Well, I just finished ordering the bulbs, lenses and lubricant. I have to say I would have been lost if not for the links and advice I got here. MANY THANKS!!
The lights came so I got up at the crack of dawn the next morning and did a quick bulb replacement on one front marker (working) and the 2 non- working back markers.
After I removed the lenses I found the front marker interior was in good condition. The back marker under the ladder was in horrible condition (Photo 1). The other back marker was in good condition. (photo 2).
I chose the working front marker just to have something to gauge how the LED lights worked.
NONE of the markers worked after LED bulbs were installed. Used grease on all.
I put the original-working (not LED) bulb from front marker into both back markers, neither worked.
I put the (non-LED) bulbs from the back markers into the front marker, both worked.
I then put the original front marker bulb back in the front marker, and it worked.
Put the other non-LED bulbs in the back markers, so there wouldn’t be any empty sockets.
CONCLUSION;
None of the non-LED lights were blown.
Back marker under ladder problem is the connector or socket.
Other back marker problem is unknown.
LED not working in front marker for some reason. I thought maybe because you can’t mix LED and incandescent bulbs.
I decided to test that theory, but I switched to the side markers, because they are easier to work on and it was already getting hot, so I didn’t have much more time.
All original non-LED side marker lights (2 in each marker) were working.
The first thing I tried was to remove 1 non-LED bulb and replace it with an LED bulb. At first it didn’t work but after fiddling with the way it fit into the socket, it lit up and the non-LED stayed lit as well. (photo 3)
I was able to get the LEDs to work in all 4 sockets.
However, I could never get both LEDs to work at the same time in the driver side marker, I could on passenger side marker.
The only way the LEDs would light up is when they were hanging ½ way out of the sockets. This was the case for all four of them. They will NOT work when seated like the non-LED bulbs. The fit is SO tenuous that if you rap lightly next to the marker, the bulbs go out.
At this point it was already 95 degrees so I put all the non-LEDs back in and called it a day.
CONCLUSION;
LED and incandescent can work together.
The LEDs will fall out with normal driving
I don’t know why driver side marker won’t light both LEDs at the same time.
PLAN:
Wait for cooler weather.
Set aside the LEDs until I can figure out what needs to be done to get the system working using the incandescent bulbs.
Once that is done I will try other versions of LED bulbs to see if I can find a style that works in existing sockets. If I can’t, I’ll stay with incandescent bulbs.
On the other hand, if getting the system to work with incandescent bulbs requires replacing a lot of the sockets and/or whole marker units, I will replace all units with new ones specifically for LED bulbs. (If you listen closely you can hear my wallet wailing in agony, in the background).
QUESTIONS;
What are these numbers for? (photo 4)
I can’t find those square sockets anywhere; do they still make them? Would the sockets pictured work as replacements (photo 5), looks like fitting under lens might be a problem.
"Set aside the LEDs until I can figure out what needs to be done..."
Some LEDs are polarity sensitive. If it doesn't light, try turning it over and inserting the opposite way.
Make sure that the LED bulb base is identical to the incandescent base, length, width and thickness. You might also try without the grease. See if you can squeeze the contacts closer to provide more contact surface. Good luck. ;)
Just a suggestion- it might be a good idea to rename the topic title of this thread to make it more searchable.
Hi Alice. You take very good pictures. In Pic#2, you can clearly see that the conductor tab from the socket on the right isn't touching the piece of metal that the blue wire ring terminal is connected to. It should be, and the socket terminal should be over that plastic post. The metal is nickel plated brass. If you use a jewelers file to scrape through the nickel, you can solder to the base brass. You have to be fast and good not to melt too much of the plastic. I've been practicing over 60 years, and I have some specialized equipment. It's even more fun hanging off the roof, or on a ladder.
My printed circuit board designer has shipped design revision two off to make three test boards. If it comes back and works, I'll take a picture of it. Not for the side marker lights, but to replace the guts of the ten round fixtures. See my post to Ray about the side fixtures. You can replace that entire fixture for the same price as the one retrofit bulb. Oval LED Truck and Trailer Lights - 4” LED Side Clearance Lights - Pigtail... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/oval-marker-lamps/oval-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-4-led-side-clearance-lights-w-4-high-flux-leds-pigtail-connector/580/) edited after the posting 8/15 RonB
It looks like in Photo #1 the white base is cracked in two places. Problem?
Some LEDs are polarity sensitive. If it doesn't light, try turning it over and inserting the opposite way.
Make sure that the LED bulb base is identical to the incandescent base, length, width and thickness. You might also try without the grease.
GOOD POINTS.
I did flip the LEDs and it didn't matter, they worked, or didn't work, the same in either direction.
When I put LEDs in side marker sockets, I forgot to add the grease. They didn't work until I added it. The incandescent bulbs worked with or without the grease and in either direction.
Hi Alice, I don't know what those numbers mean. I had one fixture on my '99 rig that never had two working bulbs. It's been LED now for 15 years. You'll notice the mounting screws are also meant to be grounded to the side of a trailer or motorhome with aluminum siding. LD had to add ring terminals since the sides were plastic even then. Those newer side markers just have two wires which are polarity sensitive, White = ground and black +12v. The little replacement bulbs should be bi-directional. The contacts inside the sockets can be pried back together inside the slots for better contact with the bulb base. RonB
Hi Cindy, no the cracked base is really common. Would only be a really small water leak, but it's unlikely any water could penetrate the sealant that LD uses. RonB
Just a suggestion- it might be a good idea to rename the topic title of this thread to make it more searchable.
Done!
90% of clearance light problems are caused by poor contacts. The constant vibration and lack watertight sealing contribute to the problem. When our LD was new, I removed the clearance light's covers and coated the lamp's contacts with dielectric grease. The same was done to the ground wires.
Maintaining equipment in a marine environment for a few decades taught me the value of preventative care.
The stock, incandescent clearance bulbs should last a long time. In 15 years and 110,000 miles, only two of our LD's clearance lights have burned out.
I see little or no benefit to changing to LEDs in this application. When the engine is running, there is plenty of electrical power for lighting.
LED tail lights are preferable for their instantaneous on and off, much more noticeable than incandescents bulbs.
Larry
"LED tail lights are preferable for their instantaneous on and off, much more noticeable than incandescent bulbs"
---
Many owners of older LDs have changed the original "dim bulbs in a painted can" to LED taillights; the gain in brake light brightness and visibility to following traffic makes this job a must-do, IMO.
The first set of LED taillights in my 2003 were Maxximas; they seemed to dim after a few years, and were replaced with Petersons. (This product seems to still be available)
http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=1&fId=57&pId=1478
(Note: the chrome ring was not replaced after installation of the LEDs; in my experience, the ring collected dirt and moisture behind it, so I stayed with "basic black".)
Those who have installed these lights can offer how-to instructions; one can also check the Companion and the PDF on LED taillight installation (dated 2008) on Terry Tanner's Techsnoz (Yahoo) message board. (This is a subscription site; the board is still viable, but I don't believe that it's currently maintained or updated?)
A tip for anyone working with LD-installed wiring; alligator clip wires to prevent them from disappearing into a black hole. A "service loop" is an unknown concept at LD; they use just enough to stretch from Point A to Point B, and not a millimeter more.
A tip for anyone working with LD-installed wiring; alligator clip wires to prevent them from disappearing into a black hole. A "service loop" is an unknown concept at LD; they use just enough to stretch from Point A to Point B, and not a millimeter more.
This bit of advice just saved me from a horrible misfortune!!!! Seriously, best advice I could get, THANK YOU, and I owe you!!!
Maintaining equipment in a marine environment for a few decades taught me the value of preventative care.
GREAT idea!! Treating maintenance, repairs and upgrades to the unit as if they were exposed to a marine environment. In essence they really are, the only difference is they store on dry land.
In Pic#2, you can clearly see that the conductor tab from the socket on the right isn't touching the piece of metal that the blue wire ring terminal is connected to.
Just to be sure.... see photo
You can replace that entire fixture for the same price as the one retrofit bulb. Rectangular LED Clearance, Identification, or Side Marker Light w/ Flexible... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/marker-clearance/rectangular-led-clearance-identification-or-side-marker-light-w-flexible-elevation-bracket-45-led-trucktrailer-light/4283/9532/).
Sorry, i just found those lights today. RonB
I am sorry to be so dumb, but I cannot figure out how that fixture (photo A) will fit as a replacement for the existing sidemarker unit. (photo B).
Specifically because of the rubber and screw extension on the replacement.
What am I missing???
Hi Alice, I don't know what those numbers mean.
I am concerned about them because they are different on every socket I have seen so far. Because of that, I figure they must mean something!!
I have not been able to find anything on the net about it. Which doesn't surprise me because I haven't been able to find those square sockets with that hook up system anywhere, either.
Any suggestion on terminology for the search box when looking on the net??? Or specific terminology/product numbers for replacement????
When the weather cools off, I will be able to remove an entire marker unit and hopefully get pertinent model/product numbers off of that.
Rectangular LED Clearance, Identification, or Side Marker Light w/ Flexible... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/marker-clearance/rectangular-led-clearance-identification-or-side-marker-light-w-flexible-elevation-bracket-45-led-trucktrailer-light/4283/9532/).
WAIT!!! I think I figured it out!! Just unscrew the rubber and screw part??? AWESOME!!! How will I ground it??
"I owe you..."
----
Alice, any "payback" for me, and I'm sure, for others on this forum, is hearing that our suggestions or advice were helpful. What goes around, comes around! ;)
Hi Alice. LD supplies the ground wire at the back of the light. White for ground, Black to the red wire (+12V). You do need to enlarge the hole in the skirt in just the right location to use the screw holes you already have. RonB
Hi Alice, re: the photo #2 with the circled failed joint. That is typical of a non 'gas tight' connection. Those electrons just can't jump that gap very well at just 12 volts. (now a few thousand volts maybe)... RonB
One or more of the messages of this topic have been moved to Around the Campfire
http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=32260.0
Alice, I can relate to your dilemma here. I had a few on my '92 that would not work, and no amount of contact cleaning, socket tweaking, bulb swapping or replacing bulbs worked. I got a low voltage reading in the socket with a voltmeter.
My solution was to replace the entire offending fixtures, about 4 if I recall. I started thinking I would upgrade all markers, but not go to LED ( I did replace all interior lights and fixtures, and the tail lights with LEDs already, couldn't see any benefit in LED marker lights on this application), BUT, once I replaced one marker light fixture, I rethought the plan to upgrade them all. They are a bear to get off, thanks to the great sealant the Mothership used. It was very difficult to remove them and not scratch or damage the skin of the LD. But the new lights work great.
My conclusion is that the ground thru the skin of the LD was the culprit. Not sure if that is right, but it didn't matter once I committed to fixture replacement.
Agreed on the sealant for the fixtures. We had a backup camera installed in the past year and that required lifting the middle marker and I thought he would never get it off. He was very careful and didn't scratch the paint but it broke in pieces trying to get it off. The sealant came out of the back of it as a thick solid piece.
The result of that made me realize I wasn't going to worry about any visible cracks in the base of the markers and that I didn't want to have to remove one.
Jim
Alice, I can relate to your dilemma here. I had a few on my '92 that would not work, and no amount of contact cleaning, socket tweaking, bulb swapping or replacing bulbs worked. I got a low voltage reading in the socket with a voltmeter.
My solution was to replace the entire offending fixtures, about 4 if I recall. I started thinking I would upgrade all markers, but not go to LED ( I did replace all interior lights and fixtures, and the tail lights with LEDs already, couldn't see any benefit in LED marker lights on this application), BUT, once I replaced one marker light fixture, I rethought the plan to upgrade them all. They are a bear to get off, thanks to the great sealant the Mothership used. It was very difficult to remove them and not scratch or damage the skin of the LD. But the new lights work great.
My conclusion is that the ground thru the skin of the LD was the culprit. Not sure if that is right, but it didn't matter once I committed to fixture replacement.
THANK YOU!! I was wondering about that, getting that base plate off without destroying something.
Do you know where I can find a clear picture of what those square wedge light sockets are supposed to look like INSIDE?? I Or if ANY wedge lite socket built for the 194 incandescent bulb, will be the same inside.??
Once I know what the socket is SUPPOSED to look like - where it seats the bulb - I will have a better idea if the ones on my unit are a lost cause.... or if I might be able rehab them.
Hi Alice, re: the photo #2 with the circled failed joint. That is typical of a non 'gas tight' connection. Those electrons just can't jump that gap very well at just 12 volts. (now a few thousand volts maybe)... RonB
Excellent, now I know how to fix THAT particular lite!!
This bit of advice just saved me from a horrible misfortune!!!! Seriously, best advice I could get, THANK YOU, and I owe you!!!
It's no joke, LD leaves or no extra wire when installing the tail lights. I had on set of wires completely disappear, never to be seen again.
I suggest either locking medical forceps or needle-nose vise grips.
LD wires the tail lights from the inside before the insulation and interior paneling are installed, they saw no need for any 'wasted' wire.
Larry
Hi Alice, I guess a moderator moved this comment to a different stream while I was trying to comment. Under that circle you put on there is one of the bad connections. One on each side of the socket. Even if it isn't visibly broken like this one, the two pieces of metal are just laying next to each other over that plastic post. So still bad. I would file a bare spot into the brass, through the nickel and solder a smalll wire about #22 to bridge from that blue wire to the base of the socket.
Inside the slot that the bulb base slips into, are two opposing flatish contacts. Two at each end corresponding to where the contacts on the bulb are. I would clean those up, add just a little grease, insert the bulb, and that would be much more reliable. Hopefully working. Soldering the wire, without melting the plastic too much, was the hard part. RonB
Hi Joan; you said (Note: the chrome ring was not replaced after installation of the LEDs; in my experience, the ring collected dirt and moisture behind it, so I stayed with "basic black".)
Well I haven't noticed much dirt trapped there and I like the bright, reflectiveness of the stainless steel rings. From behind in the dark I want a following driver to really see the motorhome. Especially if I'm parked and my lights are off. Reflectors are good too. RonB
Hi Alice. I think these lights (in red) are closer in size to what came with your rig. They are also surface mount, so no carving large holes through your side skirt. Those other ones, you are paying for a rubber bracket you don't need. They are also more like 1 1/2" tall so wont't cover the lack of paint underneath the ones you have now. LD painted after those were mounted. They are about 2" x 4".
Oval LED Truck and Trailer Lights - 4” LED Side Clearance Lights - Pigtail... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/oval-marker-lamps/oval-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-4-led-side-clearance-lights-w-4-high-flux-leds-pigtail-connector/580/)
They have a white and black wire, to match the LD colored wires. RonB
"Especially if I'm parked and my lights are off. Reflectors are good too."
One of the 1st things I did to my LD after delivery was to run a 3" strip of white reflective tape across the entire rear end, above the bumper but below the faux tire cover and tail lights. Any headlights that strike that strip makes it glow like it's alive.
When my tail lights were replaced with LEDs at one of the Caravan GTGs at Live Oak the fellow (can't remember his name (Terry Tanner?)) told me the reflectors were mandatory in accordance with CA law. ::)
Hi Alice. I think these lights (in red) are closer in size to what came with your rig. They are also surface mount, so no carving large holes through your side skirt. Those other ones, you are paying for a rubber bracket you don't need. They are also more like 1 1/2" tall so wont't cover the lack of paint underneath the ones you have now. LD painted after those were mounted. They are about 2" x 4".
Oval LED Truck and Trailer Lights - 4” LED Side Clearance Lights - Pigtail... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/oval-marker-lamps/oval-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-4-led-side-clearance-lights-w-4-high-flux-leds-pigtail-connector/580/)
RonB
Hi Steve. I actually have a 3/4" stripe just above the black vinyl, all the way across of Prism Duck tape. Multi color depending on the angle. Makes it easier to make sure it's my rig in the dark, before I walk into someone elses. RonB
Amazon.com: ShurTech 284039 Prism Mini Duck Tape, 75" by 15', Squares (https://www.amazon.com/ShurTech-284039-Prism-Mini-Squares/dp/B00II5BE04/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1534303397&sr=8-3&keywords=prism+duck+tape&dpID=51p-rJFgoCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch)
I have these on the back bumper:
41122 - Reflective Strips, 12" Strips, Red (https://www.grote.com/products/41122-reflective-strips-red/)
Several sources; do a search using the manufacturer's (Grote) name. The reflector strips stick on or screw on; the adhesive is very strong (if the surface is prepped and cleaned); mine have been on the bumper for over 10 years.
Hi Joan. I have some other brand of red reflector on the bumper under the black vinyl strip, and lined up under the tail lights. My 'diffraction grating' prism Duck tape is above the strip, the full width. The tape mostly looks blue, or red , or green. It is inexpensive, but only lasts about 2 years, so I apply another layer over the old. Must be about 4 layers by now.
If you don't plan on using the screws on the red stick-on reflectors, the ten pack from Amazon, seems like a good price. You can give the extra 8 away to other motorhomers. The ten pack seems to not come with screws. I prefer tape and screws for mounting, but I have a supply of screws anyway. RonB
Amazon.com: 10 Pack of 12" Red Automotive Reflector Strips Grote #41122:... (https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Reflector-Strips-Grote-41122/dp/B007D5QY96/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B007D5QY96&pd_rd_r=dc2d088d-a0ba-11e8-8f9e-25479149b04e&pd_rd_w=YPfZ8&pd_rd_wg=LJT0G&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=1675207170591242776&pf_rd_r=3XJ40EZ0Y5CR2NR1RJ4G&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=3XJ40EZ0Y5CR2NR1RJ4G)
Ron
I just noticed this; """Soldering the wire, without melting the plastic too much, was the hard part."""""
Soldering on plastic is a game changer for me, I don't have the skills to do it without melting the base.
Would something like this work?
I have not had much luck dealing with LD in Pomona, but does anyone know/think they might have replacement sockets for a 1992?
Or any sort of replacement that would fit?
I have not had much luck dealing with LD in Pomona, but does anyone know/think they might have replacement sockets for a 1992?
Or any sort of replacement that would fit?
"I have not had much luck dealing with LD in Pomona..."Alice, can you be specific?Chris
Hi Alice; Not that hard to solder. I'm not sure that glue would help at all. Have you soldered wiring before?
Lazy Daze will replace your marker lights fixtures and lenses with exactly what you have right now, only newer and cleaner. But expensively, and years from now it will be like it is now. A little solder blob applied just right will make it work better possibly for a long time at almost no cost. And no, those sockets you had a picture of won't work. RonB
My replacement units were Peterson’s if I recall. I found them easily, at a local hardware. They are a stock item so a match won’t be a problem, if you go that way.
The Mothership is not cheap for repair work, but when working on the exterior skin I don’t trust RV repair places, at least until I find a good one. Though that may be a lot easier in SoCal than it is out here at the end of the lower 48. But whatever the shop charges, look for a labor bill of 30 minutes or per light, as a guess. Maybe someone has a more accurate cost?
Alice, can you be specific?
Chris
About the needed parts?
About the needed parts?
No. What's in quotes. Do you mean you couldn't find parts or something, or you were disappointed in the way you were treated in Montclair at the Mothership? Perhaps I misunderstood you.Chris"I have not had much luck dealing with LD in Pomona..."Alice, can you be specific?Chris
TA DA !!!!!
Turns out all 3 rear lights had the same problem as pointed out by Ron B. “””the conductor tab from the socket on the right isn't touching the piece of metal that the blue wire ring terminal is connected to.””””
It is just a temporary fix, so I can drive at night if the mood hits me while waiting for the replacement units.
I did not fix the front one yet, gotta get on the roof for that. I figure if I get stopped for having that one light out I will tell the officer I have the bulb, tape and screwdriver if they want to get on the roof for me….. LOL!!
It is amazing the difference between the light from an LED bulb (passenger side, side marker light) and the incandescent bulb (driver side, side marker light).
REPAIR COMPLETE!!!!!!
HOW I TESTED REPAIRS
I finished the rear and side marker lights repair, put in the LEDs and put on the new lenses. Took the bus out to a “washboard” dirt road and put in about 10 miles. Then did a 30 mile highway drive. All lights remained on.
WHAT I DID TO REPAIR THEM
The side marker lights would only light up one bulb at a time, unless the sockets were pushed farther apart from each other. I placed one of the old 194 incandescent bulbs between the sockets and it was just the right size to keep them far enough apart so that both worked. (I removed the wires at the base of the bulb so no chance of accidental conduction)
The rear marker lights all had the same problem, the plastic button that secured the socket to the blue wire broke and they were no longer contacting each other. I used Sugru to secure the connection. I could not find anyone willing to solder them because it had to be done in place on an almost vertical angle and because the surrounding area was plastic.
MISCELLANEOUS
I did order 5 of the “complete LED upgrade units” from Lazy Daze. They were unable to provide a picture or link to a picture of that unit, so I have no idea what I will be getting or how it is to be installed. I’ll keep them as spares.
The units were 8.50 each and the total cost came to 70.40, including shipping. Payment had to be made by mailing them a personal check. I haven’t used an envelope and stamp for about 12 years, and a trip to and from the post office, to obtain same, is about 20 miles. So I just sent it priority mail from the house at $7.00, because it would cost only slightly less than the cost of the gas to get to the post office for an envelope.
I will post pix of what I get, incase anyone else is curious.
Here is what the LED rear marker lights from LD look like.
They are made by KAPER II, here's the link;
https://www.kaperii.com/productpage1?lightbox=dataItem-jf1ee1iy1 and they are also available on Amazon.
Also shown are the rear side markers (not LED), Peterson Manufacturing.