Lazy Daze Owners' Group

Hi folks,

Well we are on the road again, this time in Newfoundland.  Normally, I'd be posting to a blog for anyone interested in our travels, but alas, Verizon has draconian limits on international cell coverage (max 1/2 GB per day at unmetered rates, and once metered, forget loading pictures ;-)

But anyways, that's not why I'm posting.  Thistle Dew Too (our rig) has been running pretty well.  It has always started *immediately* after turning the key.  Even after sitting idle all winter.  But recently, it has *sometimes* not started until the 2nd or 3rd turn of the key.  And it sometimes flashes a Check Engine Light when that happens.

So my question to the experts -- is this indicative of a known failure pattern, and if so, can we take some action before we are stranded in the middle of Labrador ;-)  Again, so far, it has always started (never more than 3 attempts).  The engine battery is new (replaced this Spring).  It's just that when cranking, *sometimes* is doesn't "catch".  Please excuse my technical jargon ;-)

A few more pro-active inputs:  The rig has almost 100,000 miles on it.  It had complete service last year, after having sat for quite a few years.   Plugs were changed at about 76,000 miles by previous owner, who took very good care of it (but I can't really say the same about me).  Oil is fresh and full.  Transmission is new as of last year.

My quick internet research did not give me any leads, nor did a quick search of previous posts here.

OK, I welcome any follow-on questions, or ideally some suggestions for what you think might be the cause.   This is not currently a crisis, but I am trying to prevent one ;-)

As always, thanks in advance!

S-

There are some great experts in this group that know a lot more than i do about the  engines in these motor homes. Assuming its a ford engine that vintage had some issues with fuel delivery systems, pumps and such around that milestone. At least that was my experience with some of our work trucks in the fleet. Someone in here may have a suggestion on how to test the pressure in the system. I do know that you dont want to remove any gas lines without depressurizing them. (Please dont ask me how i know that :))The check engine light could be several things and maybe someone in here knows how to retrieve your engine codes to help you hone in on a sensor. Good luck and i may be working with a great ford mechanic tomorrow and i will run it by him if i see him.

Has the fuel pump ever been replaced?  Can someone near the fuel tank hear the pump when the key is turned on?  If it turns over strongly but doesn't catch, I'd suspect fuel or ignition.  At 18 years and 100k miles, the fuel pump is something I'd keep an eye on.  At least a fuel pressure check might be worthwhile.

Art

 At 18 years and 100k miles, the fuel pump is something I'd keep an eye on.  At least a fuel pressure check might be worthwhile.

Your rig is the right age and mileage to suspect a dying fuel pump.
A simple test is to turn the ignition on and off several times and then try to start it.
If it catches right away, it's a good indiction the fuel pump is ready for replacement.
Changing a fuel pump is a project that is best done on your own schedule. it can be hard to find a shop willing to drop the fuel tank, to access the pump. Even when near empty, the 55-gallon fuel tank is heavy and difficult to remove and replace.
Fuel pump replacement | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/albums/72157684915984705/with/35186044356/)

Larry

I don’t know about the LD engine but we just had similar symptoms on our CRV and it turned out to be the starter.
Every 3-4 starts, it would try to start but not start (every couple days).   When it struggles to start a second or third try and it started ok.  Other times it started right up with no problems. 
It sounded like a battery going bad and we always have jumper cables so after about a week we got a new battery.  Problem happened again a couple days later  and we double checked all connections but problem happened again.
Then one day (about two weeks after the first  symptom) it didn’t start at all, pushing  up our appointment at our mechanics a couple days.  New starter and all is well.

I like to plan my repairs and our  old 2001 CRV has nicely accommoded this with only one problem ever (and not an urgent  - do it now - one) .  Our 2007 CRV has had 4 non routine repairs now (two more minor airconditioner issues - bad design this year).  Mileage on both are the same around 250000.  They just don’t make things like they used to.  

There are many things it could be so my suggestion would be to take it to a Ford dealer and have them plug into the OBDII and see what codes have been set. Newer engines do a great job at hiding problems by automatically adjusting themselves until they are so far along and nothing else can be used to compensate.

A fuel pump sounds like a great candidate although I would take a pressure reading off the rail first with a calibrated gauge. There are other possible issues involving the MAG, IAC, etc. but you really need to have the codes pulled by the dealer first.

I also think that getting the codes is the first step in the diagnosis process. The issue could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter, but the problems may be more complicated and varied, e.g., a leaky vacuum hose, bad plugs and/or coils, bad oxygen sensor or mass air flow sensor, an issue with the catalytic converter, or something else entirely!

I would check the gas cap before doing anything else; the truck won't start at all if the cap is loose (or gone!), but it may start intermittently if there is a little nick in the gasket or something else that's preventing a completely tight seal. There could also be a very small crack in the filler neck; this usually results from "tapping" the gas nozzle against the neck to get the last drops of gas into the tank. The neck, at least on my 2003, is plastic, and doesn't take kindly to being whacked with a metal nozzle.

Please post when you get the codes and diagnose the problem(s). Thanks.

Well thanks to all for the multiple, quick responses.  Looks like it could be many things  :o

I guess I need to check in with some local experts (to get codes and other advice), if I can find some. 

I'll report back as I learn more or experience additional symptoms. 

I will also try to follow the self-diagnostic suggestions by Larry and Art.

Thanks much; if anyone else wants to toss their hat (smarts) into the ring, be my guest.

S-

There are many things it could be so my suggestion would be to take it to a Ford dealer and have them plug into the OBDII and see what codes have been set. Newer engines do a great job at hiding problems by automatically adjusting themselves until they are so far along and nothing else can be used to compensate.

Later model OBDII systems are very sophisticated, controlling, monitoring and reporting all sorts of problems.
Unfortunately, their 2000 LD's OBDI (not OBDII) is a very simple engine control system and does not monitor the fuel pump or much of anything else, besides the basic engine sensors.
If the "Check engine" light is not on, no codes will be available. OBDI isn't good about recording "Pending  codes".

The  OBDI systems do not have a downstream O2 sensor and does not monitor the catalytic converter, as every OBDII system does.  Our 2003 V-10 had a inoperative spark plug and the OBDI failed to notice it.

For home mechanics who want to do their own fun pump testing, an inexpensive gauge kit can be used.
Fuel Injection Pump Tester (https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-62623.html)
Read the instruction on how to safely de-pressurize the fuel system before hooking up the gauge.
The fuel system operates at under around 40-PSI of pressure and can spray raw fuel a good distance.

Larry

Unrelated to your problem, but related to Newfoundland - when we were there in 2014, Walmart had free wifi, which extended into their parking lot. After stores close, traffic on it was nil, and it was very high-speed.

Steve

"The  OBDI systems do not have a downstream O2 sensor and does not monitor the catalytic converter, as every OBDII system does.  Our 2003 V-10 had a inoperative spark plug and the OBDI failed to notice it."
---
Larry, thanks for that reminder; I didn't think about the "primitive" OBDI system in earlier model Fords when posting. I think the "What could be wrong?" ideas are probably worthwhile checking out (definitely including a bad fuel pump or clogged strainer, which I forgot to mention), but whatever codes are available on a 1989 may not tell much.  :( 

Hi Steve; Too bad you don't have a code reader with you. Mine is currently masquerading as a Scangauge on my dash next to the GPS. The check engine light would stay on if it had set a code. If it blinks and then goes off; I could see it being a temporary reduction of voltage, made good by the alternator starting up. You could have a leaking fuel injector that lets fuel pressure dribble down, and then takes a try or two to re-pressurize the fuel rail before normal starting is accomplished. If you stop the engine, and then try to restart it after just a minute, does it have the same delay? I might try a higher grade of fuel for a tank or so, maybe a dose of Fuel Injector cleaner, to see if that changes the symptoms.
  Your 2000 model year has OBDII, required in January 1, 1996. The minimum required dataset has been improved upon since then with more and better accuracy sensors, more capable computers, and better (I hope) software to handle both the engine and transmission. Newer On board diagnostics include safety systems: ABS brakes and Air bags (SRS).
    A bit off topic: Telematics  https://www.edmunds.com/car-technology/car-tech-101-telematics-system-basics.html  RonB.

p.s. "Ford's Sync Vehicle Health Report provides owners with online diagnostic information and maintenance reminders."

Oops, sorry; the OP has a 2000, not a 1989.  :-[

  Your 2000 model year has OBDII, required in January 1, 1996. The minimum required dataset has been improved upon since then with more and better accuracy sensors, more capable computers, and better (I hope) software to handle both the engine and transmission. Newer On board diagnostics include safety systems: ABS brakes and Air bags (SRS).

That's true for passenger cars and some light trucks but not for the E450's weight class.
AFAIK, OBDI  was used until at least 2004. My scanners positively identifies our 2003 as OBDI.
The lacks of a down stream O2 (oxygen) sensor (located on the outlet side of the cat converter) confirms it.
OBDII requires monitoring of the catalytic converter's efficiency with a down stream O2 sensor.

Larry

"AFAIK, OBDI  was used until at least 2004. My scanners positively identifies our 2003 as OBDI."
----
I just went out and looked under the hood of my 2003 (engine manufactured May 27, 2003); there's a sticker on the front edge (in front of the battery) labeled, "Important Engine Information". Among other tidbits, including a diagram of the vacuum hose routing, are the words, "OBDI Compliant".

I would guess that a few people might be opening the hoods of their post-2003 LDs pretty soon! If anyone does find an "Important Engine Information" sticker that says "OBDII", do let us know the model year! Thank you.

"AFAIK, OBDI  was used until at least 2004. My scanners positively identifies our 2003 as OBDI."
----
I just went out and looked under the hood of my 2003 (engine manufactured May 27, 2003); there's a sticker on the front edge (in front of the battery) labeled, "Important Engine Information". Among other tidbits, including a diagram of the vacuum hose routing, are the words, "OBDI Compliant".

I would guess that a few people might be opening the hoods of their post-2003 LDs pretty soon! If anyone does find an "Important Engine Information" sticker that says "OBDII", do let us know the model year! Thank you.

In our 06, MFG Oct 2006, it reads OBD I.

Jim

Unfortunately, their 2000 LD's OBDI (not OBDII) is a very simple engine control system and does not monitor the fuel pump or much of anything else, besides the basic engine sensors.

Hey Larry, I am not sure what the answer is but I took a look at 2000 Ford E-450 Owner Manuals & Warranties (https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals-search-results.html?make=Ford&model=E-450&year=2000) and it stated the 2000 model year E450 used the OBDII system.

You can find the original PDF attached below.

I am not sure what the answer is but I took a look at 2000 Ford E-450 Owner Manuals & Warranties (https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals-search-results.html?make=Ford&model=E-450&year=2000) and it stated the 2000 model year E450 used the OBDII system.

All vehicles are required by Federal rules to have a manufacturer installed sticker stating its smog specs.
Besides OBDI or OBDII, the smog spec can be either to Federal standards or the stricter California standards, with are also used by several other states.
Our 2003's sticker show it to be OBDI.  That's enough proof for me.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/852/42989440454_a77db35a91.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28uQ7Vd)

When emissions tested, the VIN also identifies which system is used.
The online owners manual probably cover the whole E-series, including the light duty models that are OBDII.

Larry

I did some more digging and found an EPA file from 2003 which stated there were no OBD requirements for vehicles over 14k pounds GVWR. The new LDs state their GVWR is 14.5k although I was unable to find any updated requirements on the EPA site.


Also, the same document listed the differences between OBD and OBD II. The entire PDF is attached below.

"The online owners manual probably cover the whole E-series, including the light duty models that are OBDII."
-----
I believe the sticker, too. I went through my 2003 Ford manual last night, and the manual does indeed cover the whole E-series, from "Econoline" vans in the 8-9000 gvwr to the cutaway/cab chassis, at the time, 14050 gvwr.

Hi folks, OP here.  Sorry for my delay in responding, but there are lots of cellular deserts up in Newfoundland ;-)

I really appreciate all the info in this thread.  Amazing the responses so far, so thanks for that.

Larry, regarding your suggestion:

Your rig is the right age and mileage to suspect a dying fuel pump.
A simple test is to turn the ignition on and off several times and then try to start it.
If it catches right away, it's a good indiction the fuel pump is ready for replacement.
Changing a fuel pump is a project that is best done on your own schedule. it can be hard to find a shop willing to drop the fuel tank, to access the pump. Even when near empty, the 55-gallon fuel tank is heavy and difficult to remove and replace.
Fuel pump replacement | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/albums/72157684915984705/with/35186044356/)

Larry

I have tried that "test" a couple of times when it did not start up on the first try, and sure enough, each time is started up right after that.  (I would have thought you provided me with the needed "trick" but it doesn't sound like I should conclude that ;-)

So what exactly is going on when I turn the key three times as it relates to the fuel pump?  And does the fact that your tip "works" provide any prediction of life left in this fuel pump?  Is this "hurry into the next shop right away" timeline?  As you know I'm currently on the road in Newfoundland, so this could be interesting.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and the thread discussions.  I'm learning a lot.  Appreciate it.

"And does the fact that your tip "works" provide any prediction of life left in this fuel pump?"

I'm on my 3rd fuel pump at 13 years and 90K + miles and my experience shows that failure is anything but predictable.

With the 1st failure I'd pulled into an RV Park on a Friday and when I tried to start the engine on Monday morning it was dead in the water. Had to be towed to where it was replaced.

On the second instance I had experienced hesitation or stumbling a number of times prior to the last failure. I was under way at speed when it finally quit and drifted to the shoulder. Once again I had to be towed to a repair facility. In both cases I was within realistic distance from my salvation.   ::)  

Hi, well I didn't know about the over 14,000 lb. threshold not needing OBDII compliance. My 1999 E350 TK is certified for OBDII. If mine was compliant in 1999, I'm surprised that the E450 in 1999 wasn't also certified. I know the engine was switched around a lot for 2000. Different valves, cam, intake and exhaust manifolds. Different sized pistons too. Not major changes, just 'tweaks'.
I think the more extensive engine management system would be better in the long run.  I had a chance to apply my code reader on that 2001, but it was running well. Later on it ended up having a bad crankshaft angle sensor, but fortunately at it's home during idle time.  RonB
   Sorry the picture is so blurry...

I have tried that "test" a couple of times when it did not start up on the first try, and sure enough, each time is started up right after that.  (I would have thought you provided me with the needed "trick" but it doesn't sound like I should conclude that ;-)
So what exactly is going on when I turn the key three times as it relates to the fuel pump?  And does the fact that your tip "works" provide any prediction of life left in this fuel pump?  Is this "hurry into the next shop right away" timeline? 

When the engine is shut down, pressure remains in the fuel system between the pump and the engine.
There is a check valve that holds the pressure. It is normal to lose some or all of the fuel pressure over a 30 minute period but the fuel should not drain back into the fuel tank.
Turning the ignition on and off several times fills and primes the system, building up pressure to around 40 psi.

So what is going on? There are a few possible causes
A failing fuel pump check valve will allow fuel, that should remain in the system, to drain back into the tank. It takes a bit of time for the fuel pump to refill and pressurize the system, thus the hard starts .
A weak pump will take extra time to prime the system, before starting.
A leaking fuel injector, one that doesn't totally seal, will drain the system and require priming, delaying the start.
Newer OBDII system usually will show an individual cylinder running rich. The old OBDI system isn't that smart.

So what to do?
I would have the fuel pump pressure tested when it's running and after sitting for ten minutes see, if the pressure is low when running or leaking down, after shutdown.
Low fuel pressure means a new pump, it isn't good for the engine to run on low fuel pressure.
A leaking check valve may last for thousands of miles, with the special starting sequence. It's a crap shoot.
Fixing a leaking check valve requires replacing the pump.
A leaky injector is less common and is harder to diagnose and will require a mechanic to test.

Most likely, the pump is dying of old age. If you start noticing bucking under full load, that is also an indication the pump is may not providing enough fuel for the engine's needs.
If you do change the pump, install a complete unit, with a filter, pressure regulator, check valve and fuel gauge sender.
All this stuff wears out.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=383218&cc=1375848&jsn=458

Larry

"My 1999 E350 TK is certified for OBDII. If mine was compliant in 1999, I'm surprised that the E450 in 1999 wasn't also certified."
---
Ron, I believe that the OBDII compliance on your 1999 E350 is due to its 11,500 pound gvwr;  the E450 had a gvwr of 14050. According to Larry's information, the 1996 OBDII compliance rule applied to vehicles under 14,000 pounds, so the E450 was stuck with OBDI.  ;)

Hmmm my 1998 31 ft IB has a Torque Pro OBD II plugged in and it has all the available settings you could ever ask for..?? At 03:41 PM 7/29/2018, you wrote:

"My 1999 E350 TK is certified for OBDII. If mine was compliant in 1999, I'm

surprised that the E450 in 1999 wasn't also certified." Ron, I believe that the OBDII compliance on your 1999 E350 is due to its 11 >,500 pound gvwr; the E450 had a gvwr of 14050. According to Larry's information, the 1996 OBDII compliance rule applied to vehicles under 14 >,000 pounds, so the E450 was stuck with OBDI. ;) 2003 TK

You can reply to this email and have it posted as a topic reply.
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index.php?action=notifyboard;board=2.0 Regards, The Lazy Daze Owners Team

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gini Free and Junah, canine xtrodinaire "CHERRYOTTE" our litte red home on wheels "Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional."

Yup, the only reason I like the 97 e350 v10 is for the obdii codes.  It has picked up spark plug misses quickly.  I just wish I wasn't almost at full capacity all the time and had 4.56 gears

Hi from a Canadian,
IRT service and repair locations in NFLD and Lab.  If you contact a garage notify them clearly of your vehicle size, weight and height since many garages, including Ford, will not, or cannot service motorhomes.  R&R a gas tank fuel pump requires the vehicle to be hoisted to a height that allows a suitable device to be placed under the tank to take the weight as the straps are removed, tank lowered and pump worked on; if you get that far, consider having the tank inspected and washed out.  BTW, try to have the tank as empty of fuel as possible, if it comes to fuel pump replacement.  Spend a few hours reading about fuel pump R&R on your vehicle type, and even motorhomes in general. 
Repair possibilities in Lab will be rare for a vehicle of your type, plus parts will take extra days or weeks to arrive.   A ferry connects Lab and Nfld.  A tow truck might be hesitant to tow a vehicle onto a ferry because of the steep angles usually encountered on entry and exit.  A tow in Lab might be hundreds of miles.  A tow in Nfld might be shorter, sometimes. Do you have a roadside assistance plan that would cover a tow of 200 or more miles?  If not, a tow might cost more than a fuel pump replacement.  I would fix the problem before taking the ferry to Lab.  If I was driving a passenger car I would want it to be in dependable mechanical condition before going to Lab.
On the island of Nfld, Saint Johns is the capital and largest city with the largest variety of service capabilities.  Outside that city, look for a town that has a paper mill or similar industry; they might have service locations for your size of vehicle that are accessible to the public.  You need to plan on repair parts taking considerable time to arrive at the garage.
OTOH this province has many excellent mechanics working in local garages; finding one is the challenge.  Having the work done at Ford might give a better analysis of the problem, with the best current equipment and software; but they also tend to the theory of "guess, replace, if it doesn't work guess again and replace another part and charge the customer for everything". 
However, determining the problem is the first step, so finding a garage that can service your vehicle is the first step, then getting a diagnosis, then deciding what action to take.
Visiting Nfld and Lab is wonderful, but I would estimate that the frequency of garages capable of repairing a motorhome would be similar to the Wyoming and similar areas of the USA.
The good news?  The american dollar is currently getting about 30% more in Canadian currency.  That means that a $1,300 Cdn repair bill will translate into a $1,000 US bill.
Harvey

Hi folks, OP here. 

We've so far been in relatively remote areas, and as such, we have not been able to get any tests run yet.  Right now we are on Fogo Island.

Thanks for the continued inputs.  Harvey, thanks for the Canadian tips.  We are moving in the general direction of Saint Johns, and we also figured that might be the best location for further testing and replacement if so indicated.  And thanks for your cautions about Labrador without having this resolved -- makes a lot of sense.

And Larry, I have a follow-on question to your earlier detailed insights/explanations into the possible problem (and turn-the-key-thrice trick).  It sounded like you suspect the fuel system is losing pressure either due to a bad check valve or faulty pump.  So here is another thing we have noticed, that I want to run by you:

We seem to encounter the problem mostly (only?) when the engine is warm.  If it has been sitting overnight, at least recently while we've been paying attention, the engine starts right up on the first key turn.  I would have thought low pressure would be *more* likely in the morning after the rig has been sitting all night?  So does that symptom change any of your thinking on what the problem is likely to be?

I also filled up with Premium gas (without ethanol) a couple of tanks ago.  I was going to keep doing that, but the last station we filled up at didn't offer premium.   Is it advisable to keep filling with premium until we figure this out?  Any downside to doing that?

I didn't know if the addition of the "warm engine" symptom might offer any other/different trouble-shooting or repair suggestions.  If so, I'm all ears.

Thanks again for all of the inputs so far.

S-

FYI, Larry and Renée are on the road so his response time for the next month or so might be hit or miss. 😎 — Jon

Steve
I am beginning to wonder if it is flooding.  Does wide open throttle start easier?  The older fuel injection  would flood when regulator diaphragm leaked through the sensing line to the intake manifold.  Similar to a leaking fuel injector or flooded carburetor.

Hi folks, OP back again.

Thanks Jon for letting me know Larry might be off the air for a while.

Steve
I am beginning to wonder if it is flooding.  Does wide open throttle start easier?  The older fuel injection  would flood when regulator diaphragm leaked through the sensing line to the intake manifold.  Similar to a leaking fuel injector or flooded carburetor.

Rodney, if by wide open throttle you mean foot on the gas, then no.  Actually, what is working best right now is leaving my foot off the gas until it catches.  Sometimes immediately (lately, first thing in the morning) and otherwise pretty quick if the engine is not too hot (or so it seems to me).  We're gonna keep testing it out ourselves until we can find a reputable repair location.

That said, when it doesn't catch the first time, I've been using Larry's trick of turning the key 3 times, and so far that has always worked.

It's a head scratcher.  So while we wait for Larry to come back on the net, I welcome more ideas, theories, or WAGs so I have more things I can research.  Thanks very much for your suggestion Rodney -- let me know if it changed or was re-affirmed based on that feedback.

Welcome anyone weighing in if they have any related experiences.

S-

We seem to encounter the problem mostly (only?) when the engine is warm.  If it has been sitting overnight, at least recently while we've been paying attention, the engine starts right up on the first key turn.  I would have thought low pressure would be *more* likely in the morning after the rig has been sitting all night?  So does that symptom change any of your thinking on what the problem is likely to be?

I also filled up with Premium gas (without ethanol) a couple of tanks ago.  I was going to keep doing that, but the last station we filled up at didn't offer premium.   Is it advisable to keep filling with premium until we figure this out?  Any downside to doing that?

Many problem only occur when hot or cold. Any of the fuel system's moving parts (pump, pressure regulator, injectors) could have this issue. The pump assembly is most likely the culprit, testing is still needed.

You are wasting your money on premuim fuel, it will not improve anything except lightening your wallet.
Premium fuel is for high compression engines, used to prevent pinging. That's it.

Parked for the night in smoke free Brookings Or.
Larry

Larry, your response didn’t post. ?

Thanks Larry, appreciate the quick reply from the road.

It will take us some time to get to Saint Johns, where hopefully I can get it tested and properly diagnosed, and then repaired if possible.

As for the premium gas, appreciate the advice.  Nice to know that is the case.  You can see I'm grasping at some straws up here ;-)

Oh, and for anyone keeping score, Thistle Dew Too just rolled over 100,000 miles before getting on the ferry to Fogo Island.  And I have the photo to prove it (and though still in "Drive", I was pulled over and fully stopped when I took the picture ;-)

And if anyone wishes to follow along on our adventure via pictures, here's where I posted the first week's batch:

2018 Newfoundland Adventure - Week #1 | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/crisp_travels/albums/72157669574006217)

I hope to include new albums every week or so (which can be found here:  Steven Crisp’s albums | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/crisp_travels/albums/)).  I'm due for another one tomorrow if the WiFi is strong enough at Brimstone Head on Fogo Island, one of the four corners of the (flat earth) world.  I kid you not ;-)

S-

Great photos, Steve!

Thanks Jon (or Loni), glad you enjoyed them.  Happy to add you to the list if you like for future posts, just let me know.

I just sent out a new e-mail and link for Week #2. Here it is if you haven't seen it yet: https://www.flickr.com/photos/crisp_travels/albums/72157699810292255 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/crisp_travels/albums/72157669574006217)

Take care, and enjoy.

S-

Steven Crisp

email: scrisp@mac.com (scrisp@mac.com) cell: 603-732-3668

Lookin at those pictures kind of makes one forget about any running issues with the Motor home. Nice job.....

I know I'm late to the party, but I wanted to throw in a few observations from a fuel pump failure in my 2003. 

My symptoms were: a gradual decline in the way it started, particularly cold, leading to needing 2-3 cranks to get things running.

Eventually it failed to crank at all after a month of sitting.

It magically fixed itself after being towed (knocked around) to a shop.  I then took it to a very reputable (and $$) shop to have the fuel pump tested.  They spent 30-45 min driving with a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and couldn't find anything that tested out of spec. 

Soon after, it started acting up again.

Finally I replaced it and all of the problems, most noticeably the slow started, went away for good.

Moral of my story - the fuel pump may not work one day, test fine the next day, and cause problems soon after.  With a known failure item, and the need to replace the cracked hose on the generator fuel pickup, it's a job well worth tackling at a time of your choosing. 

I would have been better off spending the diagnostic fees on replacement.

Rich
'03 MB in NC

Oops - that was a bad link that I can blame on Flickr -- correct number, but underlying link was previous album.  So sorry.

Here is the correct link: Week #2: 2018 Newfoundland Adventure | Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/crisp_travels/albums/72157699810292255)

Sorry about that -- now I see have have to double-check Flickr before sending.

S-

Steven Crisp

email: scrisp@mac.com (scrisp@mac.com) cell: 603-732-3668

Steve - as I struggle with my decision as to when is the "right time" to pull the plug on full-time employment, your beautiful pics are definitely pulling in a certain direction...you get only one guess!!!  Great job...and good luck with fixing your mechanical issue!

Bill

Hi from Harvey,
I have spent an hour online searching for suitable repair locations in Nfld.  No useful results.  All the Ford dealerships will require you to contact them before you will learn if they can do anything, especially accommodating a motorhome on a lift.  Engine and fuel diagnostics can be done while the vehicle is on the ground, so, hopefully, that can be done; BUT if their garage doors don't raise at least 13 feet, it might not.  If they don't want to deal with a motorhome, maybe not. 
You may have to go to a Ford Truck location to find equipment capable of your weight and size; the Ford.ca website would not reveal where Truck locations are.  Phone them [or the US ford #] and hopefully, maybe, they can tell you what locations can cope with a motorhome; but I have read numerous reports of them being less than useless, in providing reliable information.
Again, when you contact anyone, tell them the length, height, and weight of your vehicle.  Repeat if necessary.  If they suggest a specific location, ask them again if your length, height and weight can be accommodated.
I could not find, by using internet,  a single motorhome engine repair location.  I suggest contacting RV sales locations and asking where they have repairs performed.
One useful bit of info was a truck towing location charged CA$175 per hour plus hookup fee for towing.
Do you have roadside assistance?
Have you spent hours viewing and reading videos/ reports of other people with similar problems?
One posting suggested fuel pump diagnostics were expensive and unreliable; better to put that money to replacing your fuel pump AND gas line to generator.  At 100,000 miles, I tend to agree, unless a different problem/solution is clearly identified, such as failures in the throttle body/ fuel injection system.
Some people [and this is where you need to spend hours and hours] have reported on how they had fuel tank/pump/sensors/fuel lines repaired by backing their RV over a service pit [or equivalent] where the mechanic could access and drop the tank.  And the problems they had in having reliable competent repairs performed.  You can watch youtube videos about this.

What is the latest on your engine problems?

Hi folks,

OP here and sorry for being incommunicado for so long.

Letting you know the fuel pump problem thankfully did not cripple us in Newfoundland or Labrador, and we are back home now, where I plan to have it replaced.

Larry, your "trick" was used multiple times and I'm sure also saved wear and tear on the starter.  Thanks for that.

We ended up skipping St. John's, and the few garages we did try did not think there was much they could do by way of testing to confirm/deny the problem.  One was kind enough to tell me he could help spend quite a bit of my money though if I really wanted to!

Rich, thanks for your recent post about your experiences.  That leads me to conclude now I just need to get'er done.

Some have you have commented on the pictures along the way.  Here is the link to my travel blog, which includes a write up for each week, and then links to Flickr for the photos:  Thistle Dew Too (https://thistledewtoo.blogspot.com) .  I plan to publish one more entry for this adventure to summary expenses and the like. 

We really enjoyed the trip, and were glad to have taken the route through Labrador.  But you will spend a lot on gas, that's for sure.  We figure every tank of gas is just a fancy hotel room we didn't have to stay in ;-)

Thanks again for everyone's inputs and moral support.  Thistle Dew Too did a great job!  Now it is time to thank her with a new fuel pump!

S-

What was the final resolution? And approximate cost? Any information to benefit others?
Harvey

Just getting back to RedNipCan after so long.  Sorry.

Shortly after we returned home, we made arrangements with our local mechanic to replace the fuel pump as the likely culprit.

I bought the fuel pump for my rig online for $285, and the labor to drop the tank, clean it out, and replace the filter was very reasonable at $400 plus incidentals.

So bottom line is I lucked out on the trip and avoided a potentially expensive and time-consuming repair.  And thanks to Larry's tip, was able to get through my trip without issue, and make it home for a local repair.

I felt very fortunate indeed.  Thanks, and sorry for the delayed reply.