I'm trying to sell my old camper with a non functioning refrigerator and a guy that called on it who is an RV repair tech asked me what it was or wasn't doing. He said it likely went out because I let it sit for long periods without running it and sediment built up and clogged the cooling system. He said it's best to keep them running or at least run them a day or so every couple of months. Maybe that's common knowledge but I didn't know and thought I'd pass the advice along to others who might not know.
"He said it's best to keep them running ..."
I haven't seen much dialog on this topic...
Here, for what it's worth, is my 2¢. I owned a Holiday Rambler TT for ten years. Never had an issue with the fridge in the trailer even though I ran that fridge 99.9% of the time I owned it. Traded it for my current Lazy Daze. The first fridge in the LD lasted 13 years of continuous operation before it quit. Have had the second fridge now for just over two years. The only times I have shut them down has been to defrost and clean them. Both of them are kept plugged in 24/7 next to my house. ;D
I cannot speak about turning them off for long periods! :-X
Steve said, “...kept plugged in 24/7 next to my house”...Ditto for me.
I used to empty the fridge and shut it down after each trip. This was a very difficult proposition since my DW is not always able to travel with me. This gives her plenty of time to fill any empty space in the homesteads fridge.
As I generally “stock up” the LD for each trip and there really isn’t any space available at home for any unused cold items, I just kinda gave up unloading the rig’s fridge.
Another nice thing about keeping the fridge running 24/7 is that it eliminates the “Pre-Flight” cool down before each trip which has become a monthly occurrence. It also helps to save a few $ since I don’t have to continually replenish refridgerated supplies. An empty fridge can often become a money vacuum.
Years ago, during my novice TT days, my fridge did die and needed replacement. I’m not sure what went wrong, but I wonder if keeping the fridge lit will eliminate spiders and insects from “gumming up the works”.
Another perk of the fridges continual “cold state” is that there is always some type of refreshing chilled beverage available. And that is worth its weight in gold on a hot summer day. 😬
Kent
"He said it's best to keep them running ..."
The first fridge in the LD lasted 13 years of continuous operation before it quit. Have had the second fridge now for just over two years. The only times I have shut them down has been to defrost and clean them. Both of them are kept plugged in 24/7 next to my house. ;D
Running the refrigerator 24/7 keeps the tubing dry and free of rusting. This probably offsets the internal wear, caused but the fluids circulating.
Other than the electrical cost of keeping it on all the time, it probably isn't harmful or cause it to wear out any faster.
RV refrigerators usually die from either an internal blockage or a rusted pipe connection that fails and leaks.
Our first refrigerator ran about 30% of the time and lasted 12 years before rusting out, releasing a bright yellow, fluorescent liquid that etched the paint, as it flowed down the side of the rig. It was the refrigerator's farewell gift.
Larry
Sure wish I could keep mine running 24/7. But where I park it is so out of level it's not an option.
Sure wish I could keep mine running 24/7. But where I park it is so out of level it's not an option.
Our sloped drive way requires lifting the front end up 9" to level our 23.5', 11" for a 27' and 13" for a 31' lD.
I have ramps and blocks for all of the models.
How about building a set of tall ramps for your LD?
Larry
I'm trying to sell my old camper with a non functioning refrigerator and a guy that called on it who is an RV repair tech asked me what it was or wasn't doing. He said it likely went out because I let it sit for long periods without running it and sediment built up and clogged the cooling system. He said it's best to keep them running or at least run them a day or so every couple of months. Maybe that's common knowledge but I didn't know and thought I'd pass the advice along to others who might not know.
I know that RUNNING the fridge while UNLEVEL can kill it but was not aware that letting a fridge sit for long periods would shorten it's life.
I know that RUNNING the fridge while UNLEVEL can kill it but was not aware that letting a fridge sit for long periods would shorten it's life.
It was news to me and on doing a little more research I did find this so I have two sources now. Think I'll error on the side of caution and follow the guys advice that called on my camper.
"The number one RV refrigerator troubleshooting tip is to make sure your coach is completely level. If your trailer, camper, or motorhome is not level, it can affect the cooling unit. Everything must be level, in order to evaluate the operation.
Long-term storage can cause issues with the operation of your RV refrigerator. If the fridge is off, the fluid isn’t flowing. Over time sediment will build up in the cooling system, stopping its operation."RV Refrigerator Troubleshooting - What You Must Know - RVshare.com (https://rvshare.com/blog/rv-refrigerator-troubleshooting/)
Here is what appears to be a reasonable explanation of running in non-level conditions. I would be part of the rust as greatest risk to non-operation in this "tastes great, less filling" discussion.
RV Refrigerators: How Level Should They Be? – Truck Camper Adventure (http://www.truckcamperadventure.com/2015/02/rv-refrigerators-how-level-should-they/)
If I was in the market for an RV and found an exceptionally good deal because of a non-working fridge I would play that bet every time - like doubling down on 11.
Edit - I now see the link regarding "sediment". I wonder if the sediment is dissolvable solids that once circulated will be fine. Unless they tell me what those solids are - it's like "toxins" that health nuts talk about but can rarely identify :-P
Here is what appears to be a reasonable explanation of running in non-level conditions. I would be part of the rust as greatest risk to non-operation in this "tastes great, less filling" discussion.
RV Refrigerators: How Level Should They Be? – Truck Camper Adventure (http://www.truckcamperadventure.com/2015/02/rv-refrigerators-how-level-should-they/)
If I was in the market for an RV and found an exceptionally good deal because of a non-working fridge I would play that bet every time - like doubling down on 11.
Edit - I now see the link regarding "sediment". I wonder if the sediment is dissolvable solids that once circulated will be fine. Unless they tell me what those solids are - it's like "toxins" that health nuts talk about but can rarely identify :-P
The way I understand the sediment problem is that once they settle in one location there can be no circulation so thats the end of your refrigerator.
Our sloped drive way requires lifting the front end up 9" to level our 23.5', 11" for a 27' and 13" for a 31' lD.
I have ramps and blocks for all of the models.
How about building a set of tall ramps for your LD?
Larry
My blocks would have to be even higher than that. I have a real sucky parking spot with a pretty good slope and only about 3" on each side. Concrete retaining wall on one side and the house on the other. It would be a little better if the DW would let me trim the eve back a little on the house. But I was shot down on that idea.
In our ‘15 RB the Dometic fridge will do one of two things if off level. It will either not light up or if it was able light up and it later determined that it was improperly leveled it will shut down completely.
This leaves only two options. Get some ice for the ice chest and empty the fridge or level the rig. With this in mind, I am unaware of any dangers of running our fridge off level since it simply won’t run.
I’m not certain if Dometic has solved the overheating issue when out of level with earlier models, but it certainly appears to be the case with ours.
Kent
This seems to verify what the RV tech told me.
"If the controls are working and the cooling unit is heating up in the back but there is no cooling taking place inside the box this could be a sign of a blockage in the boiler section."
Troubleshooting a Defective Cooling Unit (http://www.rvrefrigerator.net/Troubleshooting.htm)
I'm finding people saying you can remove the refrigerator and turn it upside down for a while and that will remove the blockage. With the cost of a new refer it might be worth a try.
Bit of a long shot,..
"You could try the old trick removing fridge, turning upside down , leave for a couple of hours , then stand upright, leave for an hour then try again.."
Fridge gets hot but not cold | MotorhomeFun | The Motorhome Support and... (https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/fridge-gets-hot-but-not-cold.48455/)
My last house in AZ had the same issue..had a contractor "notch' the corner out that was protruding into my back-up space. He re-did the trim and painted, and you can't tell it was done, but it made it so much safer getting into and out of the RV parking area At 11:46 AM 7/27/2018, you wrote:
On: Fri Jul 27, 2018 Larry W Wrote: Our sloped drive way requires lifting the front end up 9" to level our 23 .5', 11" for a 27' and 13" for a 31' lD.
I have ramps and blocks for all of the models.
How about building a set of tall ramps for your LD?
Larry
My blocks would have to be even higher than that. I have a real sucky parking spot with a pretty good slope and only about 3" on each side.
Concrete retaining wall on one side and the house on the other. It would be a little better if the DW would let me trim the eve back a little on the house. But I was shot down on that idea.
2002 Lazy Daze 26.5 mid bath
Lynn and Lori
You can reply to this email and have it posted as a topic reply.
LDO Links:
index.php?action=notifyboard;board=2.0 Regards, The Lazy Daze Owners Team
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gini Free and Junah, canine xtrodinaire "CHERRYOTTE" our litte red home on wheels "Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional."
"If the controls are working and the cooling unit is heating up in the back but there is no cooling taking place inside the box this could be a sign of a blockage in the boiler section."
Troubleshooting a Defective Cooling Unit (http://www.rvrefrigerator.net/Troubleshooting.htm)
I'm finding people saying you can remove the refrigerator and turn it upside down for a while and that will remove the blockage. With the cost of a new refer it might be worth a try.
"You could try the old trick removing fridge, turning upside down , leave for a couple of hours , then stand upright, leave for an hour then try again.."
Fridge gets hot but not cold | MotorhomeFun | The Motorhome Support and... (https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/fridge-gets-hot-but-not-cold.48455/)
In 1995, we bought a 1983 22' FL.
We had owned it for about three week when we took off for the PNW, landing on Orcas Island.
The second day we were on the island, the refrigerator failed to cool.
The burner was working and the coils were hot.
A blockage was the most likely cause, there were no signs of leakage.
I had heard and read that rolling an absortion refrigerator over a few times can break up a blockage . Evidently this was a common practice with the old, Servel gas refrigerators, which would need this done at times .
So, we unloaded the refrigerator and wrapped the food in sleeping bags. along with a couple bags of ice.
We proceeded to remove the refrigerator and pass it out through Lounge window, where it was rolled around the campsite for an hour. Had some interesting conversations with other campers while doing this.
Hoisted the unit back inside and into place, hooked it up and fired off the burner.
It started cooling again and worked fine for the next eight years, dying about month before we were planning on selling it, in anticipation of picking up our then new LD.
Good times.
If the refrigerator's boiler and coils are hot and no cooling occurs, either a blockage or a leak is the cause.
Leakage is usually be noticeable, especially during the event where the smell of ammonia is extremely noticeable .
If a blockage is suspected, you have nothing to lose by removing it and rolling it over and sitting upside down for a while.
There really is no need removed from inside the coach.
Larry
The refrigerant in an absorption refrigerator is a mixture of ammonia, hydrogen, water, and sodium chromate, an anti-corrosion agent; when the refrigerator is operated off-level and/or becomes overheated due to other factors, e.g., inadequate ventilation, the sodium chromate can "pool" in the tubes and eventually crystallize. This is likely the "sediment" referred to in the original post. The result of this "sediment" is a dead cooling unit. :(
The RV Doctor: RV Absorption Refrigeration Basics (http://www.rvdoctor.com/2004/02/rv-absorption-refrigeration-basics.html)
Lar
I had heard and read that rolling an absortion refrigerator over a few times can break up a blockage . Evidently this was a common practice with the old, Servel gas refrigerators, which would need this done at times .
So, we unloaded the refrigerator and wrapped the food in sleeping bags. along with a couple bags of ice.
We proceeded to remove the refrigerator and pass it out through Lounge window, where it was rolled around the campsite for an hour. Had some interesting conversations with other campers while doing this.
Larry, they probably thought you were up to no good. Reminds me of the very first episode of Breaking Bad, lol!
Thanks Joan for the RV Doctor literature. To add to your very informative piece I would like to offer this excellent video by the RV Doctor on Absorption Refrigerators.
One thing the the good Doctor mentions in the video is...”We can’t make cold but we can remove heat”. This is the guiding principle of refrigeration. https://youtu.be/b2J61TkKsJ8
When completing my Science Methods class at CSULB, my cohorts and I were tasked to make ice cream using crushed ice, rock salt, 1/2 & 1/2 and a sanwhich baggie and one gallon plastic baggie.
This was a great last project to share with the class. You can do it with friends at home or at camp. https://youtu.be/N4ztYjFxwmI
I’m no scientist but I learned some fundamentals in this class. The natural state of things is cold not warm. Warm requires energy. Cold is the absence of energy.
Generally speaking things tend to go from higher concentrations to lower concentrations. Like the absorption refrigerator when we made the ice cream we were allowing the heat stored in the milk (albeit 35 degrees or so) to travel from its high concentration to the low concentration of heat (the ice) and allowing the milk to achieve the more natural state of frozen. We weren’t trying to add cold. We were releasing heat. Pretty amazing.
That’s enough from this Mr. Wizard. I’m off to have a bowl of ice cream. 🍨
Kent
In 1995, we bought a 1983 22' FL.
We had owned it for about three week when we took off for the PNW, landing on Orcas Island.
The second day we were on the island, the refrigerator failed to cool.
The burner was working and the coils were hot.
A blockage was the most likely cause, there were no signs of leakage.
I had heard and read that rolling an absortion refrigerator over a few times can break up a blockage . Evidently this was a common practice with the old, Servel gas refrigerators, which would need this done at times .
So, we unloaded the refrigerator and wrapped the food in sleeping bags. along with a couple bags of ice.
We proceeded to remove the refrigerator and pass it out through Lounge window, where it was rolled around the campsite for an hour. Had some interesting conversations with other campers while doing this.
Hoisted the unit back inside and into place, hooked it up and fired off the burner.
It started cooling again and worked fine for the next eight years, dying about month before we were planning on selling it, in anticipation of picking up our then new LD.
Good times.
If the refrigerator's boiler and coils are hot and no cooling occurs, either a blockage or a leak is the cause.
Leakage is usually be noticeable, especially during the event where the smell of ammonia is extremely noticeable .
If a blockage is suspected, you have nothing to lose by removing it and rolling it over and sitting upside down for a while.
There really is no need removed from inside the coach.
Larry
Might be my project today. I better get on it, supposed to be nearly a hundred degrees here.
Might be my project today. I better get on it, supposed to be nearly a hundred degrees here.
It seems that 100+ degree temps are very widespread throughout the West right now with the high high pressure system.
It's been over a hundred here, everyday, for over a couple weeks .
Have someone help you removed the refrigerator, the older models had metal frames and weight much more than recent models, which are mostly plastic.
I built a simple stand to make the removal and installation easier.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5707/30786504431_61792ea9bc.jpg)
Larry (https://flic.kr/p/NUuTbx)
It seems that 100+ degree temps are very widespread throughout the West right now with the high high pressure system.
It's been over a hundred here, everyday, for over a couple weeks .
Have someone help you removed the refrigerator, the older models had metal frames and weight much more than recent models, which are mostly plastic.
I built a simple stand to make the removal and installation easier.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5707/30786504431_61792ea9bc.jpg)
Larry
(https://flic.kr/p/NUuTbx)
Projects on hold today. I read something that said before you remove refer turn it on and try banging on the pipes with a hammer to loosen up sediment. As I was banging on the pipes I found out that somewhere in there is a yellowjacket nest. Wasp in my hair and beard biting and stinging as I ran for my life. Not one of my better days. Did get some serious banging in though and I'll go check refer temp in a bit but I have serious doubts it will suddenly be working.
Ouch! Not a good way to start a serious project. Rest easy, recover and have something cold to drink.
I’m not a big fan of wasps and yellowjackets. I’m sure they play a vital role in the ecology but living in your LD fridge works isn’t one that qualifies in my book.
Kent