Having just changed the coolant in my 2003 E450 for the third time I thought I’d explain the lazy way I do it (we are Lazy Daze owners, right?) Math is the key.
In my 2003 simply opening the petcock on the bottom driver’s side of the radiator and letting it flow until it stops drains a bit over half of the total coolant in the system. Since we want a 50/50 mix of water and coolant this sets the stage for an easy coolant change.
First, gather your supplies. You’ll need 4 gallons of GO-5 coolant (check your owner’s manual, some years may use different coolant). I use Zerex GO-5. Don’t get the 50/50 coolant/water mix, just pure coolant.
I put nothing but distilled water into my cooling system. So you’ll also need 11 gallons of that.
Plus a coolant funnel. These usually have a wider mouth than oil funnels. Ask at your parts store.
Finally, you need a 5 gallon plastic bucket.
Park the motorhome where a little splashed coolant won’t do any harm. Place the 5 gallon bucket under the radiator drain petcock and open the petcock (you may need a small crescent wrench but be careful, the petcock is plastic). Then remove the cap on the white plastic coolant reservoir, in my E450 in the corner of the engine compartment nearest the driver. Go do something else for awhile.
Come back when coolant has stopped draining from the petcock. You should have about 3.5 gallons of coolant/water mix in your bucket. Close the petcock and dispose of the drained coolant. I don’t care what you do with it as long as you don’t dump it on the ground or in a storm drain.
Now put about 3.5 gallons of plain distilled water into the coolant reservoir. Keep an eye on the level so it doesn’t overflow. You’ll probably end up with the level well above the fill line. No problem. It will settle down in the next step.
Now go drive the motorhome about 10 miles. The E450 doesn’t have a hot water valve on the heater so no need to open that as coolant is always circulating through the heater (cabin air temp is regulated by mixing hot and cold air, not hot and cold coolant as in the old days.
Why the drive? To thoroughly mix the new distilled water with the old coolant that remained in the system. Since the quantity of water you added is about half the capacity of the system you will be taking the 50/50 mix to a mix of about 75% water/25% coolant.
Now repeat. Let the engine cool a bit and again drain the radiator into your bucket. Then add 3.5 gallons of distilled water and go for another drive. That will take the mix to about 87.5% water/12.5% coolant.
Drain and repeat one more time, taking the mix to about 94% water/6% coolant. Good enough.
You should now be about out of distilled water, with maybe half a gallon left. After your final drive drain the radiator one more time.
Now get your new coolant and add about 3.5 gallons of pure coolant (no water) to the coolant reservoir. Again, the level will probably exceed the fill line. No problem. Go for a drive, let the engine cool overnight and then top off the reservoir with distilled water to bring it to the fill line when cold. You’re done!
Ford says to do this every three years but I do it every five, as Zerex says their GO-5 is a 5 year coolant. By doing that and always using only distilled water my system remains quite clean after 15 years and 110,000 miles. If your system is dirty (especially rust colored) when you first drain it then you may want to add some cooling system cleaner during that first refill.
This is an all day job, not because it’s a lot of work but because of the time involved in each cycle of draining, filling and driving. But most of the time is waiting, so have something else to do in between steps.
How is this easier/better than a regular drain/refill? Another technique that mechanics do is drain the coolant and chase it with fresh coolant real time. Less mess/time.
How is this easier/better than a regular drain/refill? Another technique that mechanics do is drain the coolant and chase it with fresh coolant real time. Less mess/time.
I think the fundamental problem is that once you've drained the radiator you still have half of the old coolant mixture in the engine. So, what to do?
Dig into various "regular" ways and they start talking about opening drains in the engine block to get all the old coolant out, so more crawling around under the motorhome. Others talk about disconnecting various hoses to do the same, taking out thermostats, etc. And I think those mechanics "chasing" coolant have special equipment to do that. Then we have videos of guys flushing things out with a garden hose, which means regular, not distilled, water into the system, the usual source of corrosion and deposits. And whatever was still in the engine running down the driveway into the storm drain.
In the above method I just reached under the front of the motorhome a few times to loosen/fasten the petcock and poured water and coolant into the reservoir. The rest of it was driving around and waiting a bit, which I prefer to crawling around on the ground at my age.
But to each his own. I'm sure folks would be interested in a simpler, easier way. Let's hear it. I'm just sharing what works for me.
Nice write up - thanks!
Regarding the three or five year schedule I would speculate the three year is recommended for a heavy duty use while the five is for normal use. With the coolant system being so critical and RVs so heavy I would error on the side of safety and opt for the three year myself.
I am guessing having the system flushed at a dealer would cost $150-200 or so. Does anyone have any first hand experience on how much this would cost?
Oh, how about the chemicals for coolant flush - any first hand experience on what works best for this application?
I have all my coolant changes a done somewhere because that stuff is so poison to dogs even in very small amounts. Thirty years ago I lost the best bird dog I ever had and a good friend when she licked up some coolant the county snow plow leaked when the guy took his lunch break at the end of the road where I lived and I'm scared of that stuff anywhere near my dogs.
I have all my coolant changes a done somewhere because that stuff is so poison to dogs even in very small amounts. Thirty years ago I lost the best bird dog I ever had and a good friend when she licked up some coolant the county snow plow leaked when the guy took his lunch break at the end of the road where I lived and I'm scared of that stuff anywhere near my dogs.
The GO-5 coolant is an OAT coolant, which stands for Organic Acid Technology I believe. Those are safer than older coolants but, yes, still a risk to animals. There is little to no spillage in the above method, easily wiped up with a wet rag. There are many places to recycle coolant. Just pour the old stuff into a funnel into those emptied distilled water jugs and take it away.
The GO-5 coolant is an OAT coolant, which stands for Organic Acid Technology I believe. Those are safer than older coolants but, yes, still a risk to animals. There is little to no spillage in the above method, easily wiped up with a wet rag. There are many places to recycle coolant. Just pour the old stuff into a funnel into those emptied distilled water jugs and take it away.
I know you can be very careful but I'm just too paranoid of the stuff at this point to deal with it and it's tragic possible results. My sawmill uses soapy water for a lubricant and in the winter most people use winter window washing fluid due to the freezing temperatures but I don't even risk that because my dogs might lick it off of boards so I add alcohol to my soapy water. Not good for them either but they are not attracted to it like antifreeze.
One more tip before you proceed with my coolant change methodology: check the math for your rig first.
Mine is a 2003 E450 V-10. The owner's manual lists coolant capacity as 29.4 quarts. For a 50/50 mix of coolant and water that means 14.7 quarts (3.7 gallons) of each. When I first did this I drained my radiator into a bucket with quart measurements up the side and found that draining the radiator removed about that amount of coolant, or half the system's capacity. So when I add 3.5 gallons (14 quarts) of coolant in the last step I'm ending up with just about 14.7 quarts considering that there is some residual old coolant left in the engine even after repeated flushing. If you want to be sure though, then add 3.7 gallons of coolant, not the 3.5 I stated.
If your owner's manual lists different capacities then you'll need to do the requisite math yourself to be sure this approach will work. You might also want to double check the amount of coolant drained the first time, to be sure that the system is less than half full at that point.
Hi Sawyer, Most antifreezes since 2014 have an embittering agent added to make it less attractive to pets and humans. The Ethylene glycol is still there. Careful handling, and disposal helps everybody. I use a large stucco mixing pan to catch it coming out of the removed lower radiator hose. Again about 4 gallons. Then I refill it with already mixed 50/50 new coolant, about every 2-3 years. Dilute any spills right away.
Link to a discussion about toxicity; Making Antifreeze Less Deadly for Pets, and People - The New York Times (https://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/02/21/making-antifreeze-less-deadly-for-pets-and-people/)
RonB
I use a large stucco mixing pan to catch it coming out of the removed lower radiator hose.
Concrete mixing trays are the answer to keeping the driveway or garage floor clean when changing oil, coolant and other fluids.
This one is big enough to set a couple of buckets inside of it.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasgad-Black-Large-Concrete-Mixing-Tub-887102C/205451585
One of our LD's heaters hoses has a tee and a fitting that allows a garden hose to be attached. When the engine is at operating temperature, it's used to back flush the heater core and radiator, with the excess water and old coolant flowing out of the coolant reservoir.
This device, and instructions on how to flush the radiator and heater core, are shown in the 2003 Ford E450 Workshop Manual.
Peak Antifreeze flush and fill kit PKFOAA - Read Reviews on Peak #PKFOAA (https://www.autozone.com/heating-and-cooling/flush-and-fill-radiator-kit/peak-antifreeze-flush-and-fill-kit/525931_0_0)
Amazon.com: Cool-Trak 311519 Coolant Testing Strips - Set of 50: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-311519-Coolant-Testing-Strips/dp/B000MIUJMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531640694&sr=8-1&keywords=coolant%2Btester%2Bstrips)
With an old radiator, be careful trying to open the petcock, The plastic gets brittle with age and can break if forced.
Many times, the lower radiator hose will need to removed to drain the radiator
One of our LD's heaters hoses has a tee and a fitting that allows a garden hose to be attached. When the engine is at operating temperature, it's used to back flush the heater core and radiator, with the excess water and old coolant flowing out of the coolant reservoir.
This device, and instructions on how to flush the radiator and heater core, are shown in the 2003 Ford E450 Workshop Manual.
Peak Antifreeze flush and fill kit PKFOAA - Read Reviews on Peak #PKFOAA (https://www.autozone.com/heating-and-cooling/flush-and-fill-radiator-kit/peak-antifreeze-flush-and-fill-kit/525931_0_0)
The concrete mixing tray makes catching the old coolant easy. I usually end up with two 5-gallon buckets full to take to the recycling center. Some tap water is left in the engine, some can be drained by removing the driver's side cylinder drain plug.
It is a minimal amount, I usually do not bother. Distilled water is mixed 50/50% with the concentrated coolant.
FYI, try to always buy concentrated or non-diluted coolant, it is much cheaper, per oz, than the pre-mixed variety.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1808/29547167788_9bdf254a1e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/M1YXzo)
Ford got the metallurgy and coolant chemistry right in the V10, the old coolant looks almost new when, after 4 or 5 years, it is changed. The condition of the coolant can be easily monitored with periodic testing, using test strips. The strips helps prevent premature changing of the coolant.
Amazon.com: Cool-Trak 311519 Coolant Testing Strips - Set of 50: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-311519-Coolant-Testing-Strips/dp/B000MIUJMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531640694&sr=8-1&keywords=coolant%2Btester%2Bstrips)
Larry
This topic is very interesting, indeed. The amount of knowledge and wisdom here may soon sink into my somewhat dense gray matter.
I was aware that antifreeze should be changed periodically. To be honest, I have never flushed a radiator in my life. I’m not even sure that any of my current cars have had this procedure done.
It seems pretty straight forward but my driveway is currently occupied with our LD and there is no way that it will be parked on the my street while I flush the family Toyota Brigade. So it’s off to my friendly mechanic. I’m sure he’ll love the business.
I did take a look at the test strips Larry mentioned thinking that I could at least see where I stood before I dropped the bucks at the mechanics. After reading the reviews of the product, it appears there are certain things to consider before purchasing these strips.
Apparently, these particular strips are not for use with all antifreeze products. I’m such an antifreeze no-nothing (although I did read the earlier article linked to its history). Looks like I’ve got a little more reading to do.
Better have another cup of coffee and put on my reading glasses. It’s nice not being a know it all. Gives me so much more free space to fill. 🤓
Kent
This topic is very interesting, indeed. The amount of knowledge and wisdom here may soon sink into my somewhat dense gray matter.
I was aware that antifreeze should be changed periodically. To be honest, I have never flushed a radiator in my life. I’m not even sure that any of my current cars have had this procedure done.
It seems pretty straight forward but my driveway is currently occupied with our LD and there is no way that it will be parked on the my street while I flush the family Toyota Brigade. So it’s off to my friendly mechanic. I’m sure he’ll love the business.
I did take a look at the test strips Larry mentioned thinking that I could at least see where I stood before I dropped the bucks at the mechanics. After reading the reviews of the product, it appears there are certain things to consider before purchasing these strips.
Apparently, these particular strips are not for use with all antifreeze products. I’m such an antifreeze no-nothing (although I did read the earlier article linked to its history). Looks like I’ve got a little more reading to do.
Better have another cup of coffee and put on my reading glasses. It’s nice not being a know it all. Gives me so much more free space to fill. 🤓
Kent
I've tried the test strips and they seem to work but I don't trust them fully so I just change antifreeze on a regular schedule. I learned my lesson with a 79 Chevy van I had years ago when I neglected the antifreeze and the heater core rotted out. I never did replace it and just routed it out of the loop instead because I only drive the van in summer anyway. Lesson learned though.
Initially I was going to replace it but when I did some research everyone said "it's like they hung a heater core on a string and built a van around it" so I chickened out.
I did take a look at the test strips Larry mentioned thinking that I could at least see where I stood before I dropped the bucks at the mechanics. After reading the reviews of the product, it appears there are certain things to consider before purchasing these strips.
Apparently, these particular strips are not for use with all antifreeze products. I’m such an antifreeze no-nothing (although I did read the earlier article linked to its history). Looks like I’ve got a little more reading to do.
Test strips have been used in fleet service for many years, it's SOP.
The V10's recommended coolant, Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT), work fine with the test strips.
I have used the gold color Zerex-05 since new and it normally does last the full five years, according to the test strips findings.
No need to change the coolant early when it is still doing's job.
I have use the same coolant into of our Jeeps for 15 years and never had any problems with rust buildup, unlike the older coolants.
The chemistry of coolants has changed considerably since I was a kid, when changing coolant was a frequent, dirty job.
I seem to remember my father changing oil and coolant often in his work car, 80 miles a day wore the old cars much quicker than today's low maintenance vehicles. All maintenance items have a much longer mileage intervals today.
Larry
OK, McLube dry lube, coolant test strips....please come up with the third (fourth, etc.) "must have" real soon so I can place the Amazon order in one fell swoop! ;)
So much good information available from so many sources:
Humble Mechanic - What Is Engine Coolant (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUcTWzBZAdg)
My grandson had suggest that I have the Radiator flushed on my 2000. Ironically, the next day I noticed white smoke coming out of exhaust pipe and then noticed water draining from it and it did have a gas smell. I read many things about what could be going on and one was to check antifreeze. I decided to make an appointment to have it flushed. I did open the hood and looked around to see if there was any leaks. I was shocked that the reservoir was cracked and glad I found it before my trip to Shaver Lake. I appreciate all the posts because I have really learned a lot.
I did open the hood and looked around to see if there was any leaks. I was shocked that the reservoir was cracked and glad I found it before my trip to Shaver Lake. I appreciate all the posts because I have really learned a lot.
You are lucky to have found the damaged reservoir before climbing the mountain, the cooling system is under pressure, in the 12-16-PSi range, that raises the boiling temperature of the coolant. Boiling coolant is not as capable of removing heat.
A broken reservoir cannot contain pressure and could lead to overheating in conditions that usually would not cause issues.
E450s have a long coolant change interval at 50,000 or five years. Many people only pay attention to the mileage and end up running the same coolant for ten years or longer . Beside prolonged coolant change intervals, I have found many LD with hoses and serpentine belts that are 10-15 years old, once again age has not taken into account .
Larry
E450s have a long coolant change interval at 50,000 or five years.
My Ford 2004 E-450 manual says 3 years or 50,000 miles after the inital coolant change.
My Ford 2004 E-450 manual says 3 years or 50,000 miles after the inital coolant change.
Follow Ford's recommended change interval, as indicated in your owner's manual.
I used Zerex G-05 coolant which has a 150,000 mile/5-year change interval and regularly test the coolant using test strips, finding the coolant stays clean and functional for the full five years.
I'm alway amazed how clean the coolant is after five years and never find any sediment or other debris. Zerex G-05 works just as well in our Jeeps.
Larry
A coolant change is on my service list (114k miles), so I checked the manual and maintenance guide for the recommended intervals/time; the 2003 manual and Ford maintenance schedule does say to change the coolant "every 50,000, miles or every three years, whichever comes first", but the initial Gold coolant change isn't scheduled until 100,000 miles.
The coolant has been changed on my 2003 twice already (Motorcraft Gold), so the upcoming change will probably do for the rest of the time that I'll be on the road! ;)
After going through the receipts I have from previous owner; I’m lucky my LD received an oil change. I never noticed the crack as I stood from the middle looking in as hood was up.
Gauges never indicate a problem. As I moved to my right more is when I noticed it.
I’ll ask mechanic to put Zerex G-05 coolant in it. It only has 72,000 miles on it and drives great. But next year it will be 20 yrs old.
My husband flushed our vehicles radiator every year and I’m not sure why he did that?
Thanks Larry!
A coolant change is on my service list (114k miles), so I checked the manual and maintenance guide for the recommended intervals/time; the 2003 manual and Ford maintenance schedule does say to change the coolant "every 50,000, miles or every three years, whichever comes first", but the initial Gold coolant change isn't scheduled until 100,000 miles.
Zerex G-05 is a 'gold' coolant, the same as the Motorcraft coolant, and is rated for long term usage of 5 years and/or 150,000 miles.
Long term usage of the same coolant is the result of the manufacturers finally getting the chemistry right for the various metals used in the engine.
V10s are mostly aluminum and have few dissimilar metal to corrode, the coolant usually looks clean when removed after several years of usage.
Checking the PH, using test strips, will indicate if the coolant is getting too acidic and needs to be changed. The strips also indicate if the freezing or boiling points are too high or low.
Amazon.com: Cool-Trak 311519 Coolant Testing Strips - Set of 50: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MIUJMO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Larry
Just called my local mechanic (Ford Truck service at Caruso Ford will no longer service RV’s) to have the antifreeze changed in our RB.
Heading over there right after my trip to Big Bear next week. With 5 vehicles at home, a preventive maintenance list can get pretty long. 📃
Kent
Just called my local mechanic (Ford Truck service at Caruso Ford will no longer service RV’s) to have the antifreeze changed in our RB.
With 5 vehicles at home, a preventive maintenance list can get pretty long. 📃
Time to learn how to do it yourself, you are retired and have the time to figure it out, it isn't rocket science.
DIYing it can save a lot of money and in return, you learn something new, plus you don't have to deal with a dealer or mechanics, we are an obnoxious lot.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ZRXZXG05RU1
To save more money, buy the full strength coolant and dilute it 50/50 with distilled water.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasgad-Black-Large-Concrete-Mixing-Tub-887102C/205451585
The big plastic tray catches coolant or oil and prevents making a mess of your driveway.
Larry
Try AutoNation Ford Tustin. 714-832-3300.
New Cars, Used Cars For Sale, Car Dealers and Pricing | AutoNation (http://www.autonation.com)
Larry,
As our driveway fits the LD fine, there is no room for other vehicles. Putting the rig in the street is not an option for me. The cars around here are not trustworthy where the LD is concerned. I cringe anytime it’s sits on the street for even a few minutes. 😖
Car maintenance on the streets is unlawful in my area. Besides I have enough trouble dodging the cars when I wash my fleet in the street. Kinda like being a bull fighter with a garden hose.
Ole’
Kent
Kent you might have to become "handy" ;D . But seriously, there are people who like this kind of stuff and people who really don't. If you like being handy, there are great videos all over these days. If you don't like being handy I support you finding a shop to do the work (but educating yourself so you can confirm they did a good job).
Become a good mechanic and you will have no lack of friends. Maybe that’s why nobody likes me?
Margee and I don’t consider ourselves especially handy. We’re painfully slow and need to study each new project for way too long. We’ve managed to do a good number of projects with this slow and tedious style.
We flushed the radiator and we did it correctly. We upgraded several parts in our Rig in the last 4 years which took hours longer than the best on this Forum. We did these upgrades correctly. We change our oil and oil filters, torque the oil plug, clean or replace the air filter. We do these correctly too.
We’re pleased that we’ve saved hundreds of dollars or more on labor costs. But the real reason we’re pleased is because the work that we do is done correctly. I’m not as confident that others will be as fastidious with our Rig as we are.
Footnote: We use a preventative maintenance and maintenance schedule condensed from several reliable sources by Joan of the YMMV clan. We’ve reduced the frequency of some items but not eliminated any. Time consuming - about 24 hours every 6 months.