Do they need replacing after a certain timeframe or are they a case of “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”?
If yes what is a good replacement and where are they available?
Mine is 23 years old.
Does yours have stamped words on it - with a manufactured date and when to recertify it? Some like ours does. If I remember right the stamped (indentedinto the metal) is on the top area where we grab it to lift and carry.
Jane
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Hi Jane, That would be the bottle, if yours is removable, you have a DOT tank, and it needs to be recertified every (12) years, [don't quote me]. Newer LD's have ASME tanks that don't need recertification. (If you have heavy rust, or accidents, have it inspected and / or certified) but not normally needed.
Ted was asking about the pressure reducer/regulator. Larry W. has replaced his. It isn't expensive or difficult to do.
Larry's album: Old vs. new Marshall regulator | Top is from an 1990 Lazy Da… | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/32879307285/in/album-72157679873233630)
Most people let it go until is starts leaking. Not a real safe thing, but you can turn off the valve, if you are there. If you ever have a tank that goes empty really faster than you expected, you might want to look for a leak somewhere. (P.S. don't look with a match!) bubbly solution like snoop, (even simple green). RonB
In my last RV, the Marshall regulator went bad after only 10 years. I discovered this because one of the gas appliances wasn't working correctly. Replacing the regulator did the trick.
If it were me, I would do a preemptive replacement of the regulator and any rubber hoses.
Most people let it go until is starts leaking. Not a real safe thing, but you can turn off the valve, if you are there. If you ever have a tank that goes empty really faster than you expected, you might want to look for a leak somewhere. (P.S. don't look with a match!) bubbly solution like snoop, (even simple green). RonB
Ours is 12 years old and I have a new one on hand. Not sure if I want to try my luck on this. The picture on Larry's page looks like both ends are compression fittings? They also seem to have the yellow teflon tape. I don't know if I'm seeing that correctly but I thought you didn't need tape with a compression fitting?
On a side note I was looking for the yellow tape when to use with our catalytic heater and called a propane supplier. They told me the yellow tape is the same as the white but they charge more for the yellow. Don't know if that's true.
Ron, I see you're about an hour from me. I may need to start visiting you. :D
Jim
Jim
Hi Jim, I noticed you were in Aguanga, Is it Oak Grove near you?, it was the first campground I went with our new LD. I visit Hemet often.
Compression fittings, or flared. (I actually have a flaring tool and know how to use it, but kind of an antique anymore). Compression is much easier to do. The yellow tape is thicker, and some building codes require it. The white tape is to reduce the friction on the threads, so you can get a tighter seal on the metal to metal compression part where the gas tight seal is. Not absolutely necessary, but easier to do, and prevents galling of the threads. In some water applications the tape is the seal, and is required.
It isn't that hard to change out, but I think that you should have a few more years, then again you already have the part.
Ted on the other hand, at almost twice the years of yours (23years old), probably is nearer to needing a change. RonB
Hi Jim, I noticed you were in Aguanga, Is it Oak Grove near you?, it was the first campground I went with our new LD. I visit Hemet often.
RonB
We are at Jojoba Hills.
I'll probably hold off on the regulator.
JIm
Ours is 12 years old and I have a new one on hand. Not sure if I want to try my luck on this. The picture on Larry's page looks like both ends are compression fittings? They also seem to have the yellow teflon tape. I don't know if I'm seeing that correctly but I thought you didn't need tape with a compression fitting?
The threads on the regulator are standard tapered pipe. The two short adaptors have pipe threads on the regulator ends, flare fittings on the other ends.
Use the propane-rated yellow tape on the pipe fittings. It's double thick and is required by code in many jurisdictions .
I now usually use a pipe sealant, finding it works as well, or better, than tape.
Amazon.com: Rectorseal 25631 4-Ounce No. 5 Pipe Thread Sealant: Home Improvement (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P5F9X2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wsi03-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001P5F9X2)
Test for leaks after completing the task.
Larry
Thanks for all the great replies.
Should I look on the old regulator for model number and brand and just replace it that way?
Do they need replacing after a certain timeframe or are they a case of “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”?
If yes what is a good replacement and where are they available?
This is what is used on more recent models. You may have an old, obsolete model that will require modifications to the propane plumbing to fit.
Amazon.com: Marshall Excelsior (MEGR-291) Compact Integral Two-Stage... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTSBYTY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Propane regulator change | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/albums/72157679873233630)
Larry