Today, I decided to see if I could loosen the damper and just test it by compressing it. I'm pretty sure it needs replacing but thought I would try anyway.
I could see that the driver side attachment would come off easily once the nut was removed but not sure about the passenger side. Attaching photos of the passenger side. I loosened it today and the bolt would easily slide out. However, the steering linkage behind the bolt won't allow it to come far enough. There are three bolts that appear to hold the bracket to the frame rail but I'm reluctant to remove them since I don't know if they go into a welded on nut or are self-tapping.
Jim
Hello Jim. The only thing I can remember during my installation is that I had turned the wheels all the way so as to compress the old Damper. I'm wondering if you turn your steering wheel all the way to compress the Damper, will that give you more room to remove the bolt? I think the distance from bolt to bolt when compressed is suppose to be 22". But that's from memory, which might not be correct. At the least, tomorrow I can go to LD storage and study it closer.
If you jack the front frame area up the axle will drop along with the associated steering linkage. This will permit the shoulder bolt to be removed from steering damper.
Hi Jim. Your motorhome is sitting level, so the bolt hits the tie-rod. Just jack up the frame about 2" on that side. The tie-rod will follow the wheel and give you plenty of room to get the bolt out. There isn't a spring in the shock, not gas charged like a shock absorber. It is just a damper, and should just fall out at any position. You can check that by pulling the new one out, or pushing it in. It should stay where you put it.
I have you to thank for this. Your picture made me go out and look at mine, yep...lots of oil leaking. I just ordered my new one this morning. Amazon.com: Bilstein 24-174534 5100 Series Steering Damper Front 5100 Series... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N6QIVE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
So I'll have more experience in a week or so. RonB
(So Renegade242 beat me to it) (and some dampers are charged with gas to prevent the oil from foaming)
Appreciate the help. We are hitting the road for several months starting this Saturday and the Bilstein likely won't get here by then. I may order this since it will come prime. Amazon.com: Monroe SC2955 Magnum Steering Damper: Automotive (https://smile.amazon.com/Monroe-SC2955-Magnum-Steering-Damper/dp/B000C59SCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1530567823&sr=8-1&keywords=monroe+sc2955)
If we own our LD long enough for it to fail I can try the Bilstein then.
Thanks to, Ed, Renegade and Ron.
Jim
Just one more thought Jim. Sometime this last year Larry W. installed a new steering damper on this rig and I don't remember that he had any problem with removing that bolt. Perhaps in a day or so, Larry will visit this topic and share his experience with us.
Perhaps in a day or so, Larry will visit this topic and share his experience with us.
As suggested, jack the frame up on the passenger side to drop the tie-rod enough for the bolt to clear.
Alternately, pop the tie-rod end out and replace afterwards, torquing the nut to the FSM’s specs and replacing the cotter key with a new one.
Larry
Hoping for the easy way out I tried turning the steering wheel all the way to the right as Ed suggested and while it did change the position it wasn't enough to get the bolt out. I suspect that the chassis changes on Ed's newer rig changed this a bit and it worked for him.
Jacking the front end raises another question. According to the Ford manual, you are supposed to use the "pin" on the front axle as jack points. Would I be correct that doing that will raise it all and not accomplish what I'm trying to do? If so, is there someplace in particular on the frame that I should use as a jack point?
Hi Jim. You aren't going to take a tire off. That is the point of that drawing posted. Jacking that up is exactly what you don't want to do. You want to jack the frame up so the tire will stay where it is on the ground, and the frame will move upward, and clear the bolt. I would pick the mounting bracket of the anti-sway bar. A two inch lift won't put much pressure on that bracket. I'd have to go out and look under my rig to specify a different jacking point. RonB
You are correct Jim - jacking using the pin on the front axle will not change the relationship between the axle and frame. Any point on the frame just to the rear of the axle should be OK for jacking - you should not be required to lift it much to allow for removal of the bolt.
Personally - I think I would prefer to have two separate jacks on either side of the vehicle so I would be able to lift the entire front end up in small increments and not twist the frame and everything attached. Think of jacking up a pick-up truck from a corner and noting how the cab and bed twist and are no longer in alignment.
Hi Jim. The best place is just forward of the forward bolt of the anti-sway bar bracket. That is actual frame there. You aren't going to apply that much pressure, and you don't need two jacks. The frame won't twist noticeably, The springs will be helping you jack the frame up. My shock damper bolt is clear because my driveway is at a slight angle. Been sitting that way for 18+ years. A small bottle (hydraulic) jack with an unscrewed extension would be easiest to place on the frame there. RonB
Despite it being 108 degrees here in Aguanga got it done. Thanks to you all for the help.
Jim
Despite it being 108 degrees here in Aguanga got it done. Thanks to you all for the help.
Jim
Way to go, Jim. Thanks for posting the photo.
Chris
Despite it being 108 degrees here in Aguanga got it done. Thanks to you all for the help.
Jim & Gayle ... we're proud of you. Well done and let us know how your home drives with some new hardware.
P.S. No doubt this is the definition for sweat equity.
Despite it being 108 degrees here in Aguanga got it done. Thanks to you all for the help.
Really appreciate the before and after photos Jim - this will be useful for future reference.
Despite it being 108 degrees here in Aguanga got it done. Thanks to you all for the help.
Jim
Jim, get out of there and come up to the Tehachapi's. 78 degrees here right now! :)
Jim, get out of there and come up to the Tehachapi's. 78 degrees here right now! :)
Heading up 395 tomorrow.
Jim
Despite it being 108 degrees here in Aguanga got it done. Thanks to you all for the help.
Hello Jim. How is that new Steering Damper working for you? I'm hoping you'd say ...
nice improvement vs
it didn't make a difference!
Hello Jim. How is that new Steering Damper working for you? I'm hoping you'd say ... nice improvement vs it didn't make a difference!
Good question. Human nature tends to believe there are differences even if there aren't when the changes, if any, are subtle. With that said my impression is that jerking of the steering wheel has been reduced when running over really bumpy roads. Unfortunately, it had been several weeks since I had driven it prior to the install.
When I removed the old one I was surprised to see that it worked more than I had thought. However, I did notice one spot when testing it where it seemed to give way. I believe Larry had mentioned testing it through its range of motion for something like that.
I'm glad I replaced it.
Jim
When I removed the old one I was surprised to see that it worked more than I had thought. However, I did notice one spot when testing it where it seemed to give way.
The only way to know the damper's condition is to remove one end and cycle it by hand, to see if the resistance is even through the entire stroke, in both directions. A bad one will have dead spots.
Our LD's stock damper was shot at 40,000 miles, a HD replacement lasted another 50,000 miles.
Changed to a Bilstein steering damper last year and noticed a definite change, the steering felt tighter and a bit smoother on rough roads. This wasn't unexpected, the old damper had a big dead spot, meaning it wasn't working at all.
Larry
Dead spot is the phrase I was looking for. There was one small one when I tested it.
Jim