I'm going on a trip to California in two weeks - and it could be pretty hot, just as it is right now here in Sedona with almost 100 degrees. I'm therefore testing my AC (which has a 20 Amp circuit breaker). When I connected the vehicle to shore power (meaning: with a 15 amp 14 gauge extension cable from Camco to a normal outlet at my house) the 15 amp house circuit breaker tripped after a while. When I disconnected the shore power and let the generator run the AC ran without problems for about 45 minutes. Where I'm staying in California I will have a 30 amp power connection.
Is it to be expected that the 15 amp house circuit breaker trips after a while or is this a reason to be worried?
Nick,
Household 15 amp service is not going to support the AC in your LD. Overheating will always occur as far as I know and pop the breaker.
Using a 30 amp to 15 amp adapter is fine for powering your fridge and lights and most likely your microwave but not the AC.
Once you get a true dedicated 30amp connection all will be well. Remember, though, you will not be able to run the AC and the Microwave at the same time no matter the amps at the post.
Enjoy California.
Kent
Thanks, Kent.
It's really great that I can ask all my rookie questions here and get so many helpful answers.
. When I connected the vehicle to shore power (meaning: with a 15 amp 14 gauge extension cable from Camco to a normal outlet at my house) the 15 amp house circuit breaker tripped after a while.
Is it to be expected that the 15 amp house circuit breaker trips after a while or is this a reason to be worried?
For running on a 15 or 20-amp circuit, you should upgrade your extension to at least 12-gauge and preferably a 10-gauge cord.
If you have problems with the house circuit breaker tripping, try running the refrigerator on propane and turning the converter off, letting the solar charge the battery.
This leaves all the available shore power for the air conditioner, the one thing we can't run with batteries, solar or propane.
Larry
Hi Nick; a few years back I measured what my '99 TK air conditioner drew with a Kil-a-watt meter, and with high fan it was about 17 Amps. More surge when the compressor kicked on, and about 2 Amps with the compressor off. So that would trip a 15 Amp circuit breaker after a short time. You should use the shortest amount of cord possible, an extension cord of 10 gauge only if necessary. Feel the connector area of the plugs and make sure they don't get too hot. They will get warm.
Some people have a 15,000 BTUH A/C unit and they take more power. Most A/C units are 13,500 BTUH, (like mine). When plugged in at a 30 Amp pedestal at a campground, or a 30 A. plug at home, I have never had a problem running my Microwave at the same time as the air conditioner. In addition I run the refrigerator on electric, converter on to run the 12vdc. part of the fridge, a few lights, water pump, and a minimal load to trickle charge the batteries. (old original '99 converter). The LD supplied Panasonic microwave is maybe 800 watts. Lower power than most residential units. Your 2001 should be about the same as mine.
If you are running the A/C a lot, some people recommend taking all of the rigs power cord out of the storage compartment, and laying it on the ground to prevent it from heating up. It does get warm, but I don't think that is much of an issue. I just leave as much as practical inside the compartment. RonB
"The LD supplied Panasonic microwave is maybe 800 watts."
A word of caution on microwave oven power: unless you've measured it with a Kill-A-Watt meter or equivalent, it's best to assume that the consumed power is about 150% of the rated power. In other words, an 800 W microwave will use about 1,200 W of power. My 2003 Lazy Daze had a 1,000 W microwave that drew roughly 1,500 watts.
I will drive in two weeks from Sedona through Phoenix and Quarzsite to Los Angeles (and then to Ojai) - at one of the hottest times of the year through some of the hottest places of the country. I know that the driver cabin will be cool while driving but I guess that the coach will be pretty warm so that I will need the generator and the AC for my breaks.
Would it be OK to have generator and AC already running for, let's say, the last 15-30 minutes before a break to have a nicely cool coach when I stop?
Nick,
I never hesitate to fire up the generator while traveling down the road. I run the generator for two major reasons.
One: I never travel with the propane tank valve opened. It’s for safety reasons and has been discussed on LDO many times. This means the fridge is off while I drive. This is ok. The fridge will remain cold and the freezer items frozen for 6/8 hours without running AS LONG AS the door is not opened for an hour or so before turning off the fridge/propane AND the fridge door remains closed while it is off.
However: I will start the generator after 3 hours or so of travel to allow it to “chill out” before I need to get inside or reach my destination and a supermarket. Gas use is minimal to about 1/2 gallon and hour from my estimation.
I will run the generator for a couple of hours while driving long distances. Long Beach to Yellowstone for example. And cycle back and forth over the driving period to maintain the fridges temperature at its optimum.
Two: If it’s hot out, I’ll run the generator to to run the coach AC. Nothing wrong with that. Really nice at rest stops when taking a break. Stay cool.
One thing to remember about running the generator is that it is best to run it for about 45 minutes to an hour as a general rule. This prevents varnish from forming in the carburetor and will extend the genny’s life.
Generators also like to be exercised a couple of times a month under a load such as running the coach AC.
Enjoy your AC.
Kent
"Would it be OK to have generator and AC already running for, let's say..."
As Kent opined, there's nothing wrong with that!
Another little tip is to open one (or more) of the rear vents to allow a venturi effect while under way. This will draw cool air from the dash A/C through the coach and reduce heat build up. ;)
"Would it be OK to have generator and AC already running for, let's say..."
As Kent opined, there's nothing wrong with that!
Another little tip is to open one (or more) of the rear vents to allow a venturi effect while under way. This will draw cool air from the dash A/C through the coach and reduce heat build up. ;)
Good tip, Steve. I do this with the bedroom vent whether it's cold or hot, just to draw conditioned air through the LD. I've discovered I have to put a small clamp on the round vent lifter to keep it from eventually jiggling closed.
Chris
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Hi Andy. I just estimated the power usage for my microwave. On checking, it's output power is listed at 750 watts, with a maximum input of 1080 watts. So about 9 amps. The point being that at a 30 Amp hookup site, I can run pretty much everything without 'popping' a breaker. I do have a small box heater, but I wouldn't run that and the A/C. I don't have electric heat for the water heater, or any other energy user. RonB
Chris & Lazy Bones,
If you have the rear vent open while driving, doesn't it make a lot of rattling noise? Or can you stabilize it somehow?
Susie
just open it an inch or so - that's all you need for some air flow