When I yesterday tried to install a bicycle rack onto the (factory installed) hitch receiver I failed miserably because the hitch did not fit into the receiver. The receiver looked absolutely unused (the previous owner who was the second owner and had the LD for 12 years had also told me that she never used it) and had no visible rust and yet the hitch did not fit. That was quite frustrating. I took the hitch and tried in on several other vehicles and it fit there and therefore I know that my receiver was at fault. I then ordered a new receiver at Amazon, hoping that it would fit the existing holes in the bumper.
This morning I remembered that I had a high quality set of metal files and started to file around in the receiver. Success! After about one hour of filing I am almost there! It might take another half an hour but I am sure I will manage to get the receiver to accept the hitch completely. That's really great.
My question now is, will it be a good idea to put WD-40 (or vaseline, or what else) into the receiver before finally attaching the hitch?
Surprised your '01 LD's hitch didn't fit your bike rack, they have used the same 2" hitch for decades.
After you finish filing, it's your choice if you want to lube it, it's not necessary. I would paint all the bare metal.
Most hitch-mounted bike racks wobble, to cure this, a hitch clamp will tighten things up.
Amazon.com: RETECK Hitch Tightener for 1.25" and 2" Hitches 304 Stainless... (https://www.amazon.com/RETECK-Tightener-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Installation/dp/B01KZ25Y26?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01KZ25Y26)
http://www.beamalarm.com/image/Towing/Hitch%20Vise/hitch%20clamp%205.JPG
Larry
My 2003 has a Class III hitch receiver with a 2" ID; as Larry said, this is the standard hitch that has been used on LDs (and anything else that requires a Class III hitch) forever. Maybe the fit problem was not with the hitch receiver, but with the bike rack?
This link is a good primer on hitch selection:
https://www.autoanything.com/towing/how-to-select-the-right-hitch-class.aspx
It took me five more minutes and then the hitch did fit completely into the receiver.
Before I ordered a new receiver (which I now don't need anymore) I had searched here for receiver problems and found some old threads where people reported about the same problem - and at least in one case ended up installing a new receiver. As I wrote before, I tried my hitch on several other receivers and it fitted everywhere nicely.
I doubt that this rack will rattle. It comes with an "anti-rattle" pin with a thread and a threaded counterpart going through the whole width of the hitch. However, I will order the hitch clamp to be on the safe side - thanks for the tip.
Nick is right, there was discussion on this subject way back when, and I had to file mine on my old 2000 MB, but since this doesn't seem to be a problem on later rigs, I question the statement that it is the same receiver they used for many years. I'm sure most have been filed by now.
Rich ex 2000 MB now small Bullet Crossfire trailer with Chevy 2500 HD
We have a Tule 4 bike carrier on the LD. It’s kept on the rig 24/7 and I have the Tule Bolt/Lock tightened snugly which prevents any rattle. Besides the Tule lock, I also have a Kryptonite bike cable run through the LD skids and the Tule Bike Rack to “deter” the theft of the rack itself.
To prevent premature rotting of the Tule rubber bike straps, I use two black plastic bags wrapped neatly around the rack. This also serves as a “stealth cloak” to disguise what resides under the cover.
While my Tule does not rattle, I can see an additional use of Larry’s mentioned RETECK Hitch Tightener. We often carry several bikes and to find the Tule missing after a nice bike ride would be a bad thing.
The Hitch Tightener could add an additional level of deterrence of the Tule theft. Cheap insurance or paranoia...take your pick.
Kent
"found some old threads where people reported about the same problem - and at least in one case ended up installing a new receiver."
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Hmmmm....I looked through the archives for this topic and also found several mentions of problems with hitch receivers; openings of less than 2" and/or out of square seemed to be the main complaints, and apparently affected 2000-2002 models? I suspect that LD got a "bad run" of receivers (no idea who supplied these) during that production time, and either didn't notice the issue - or minimized/ignored it. ::)
The hitch receiver on my (May build) 2003 is 2" and square (as far as I know; it's empty!), so it's likely that LD got in a new batch of hitches about that time.
After I bought my 87MP about ten years ago I had same problem with a 2" bicycle receiver(bike rack) not sliding in. I tried filling it with metal files for a long time, spraying it with WD-40, and it made no difference. The hitch receiver is welded on. I took the Lazy Daze to a local welder who had the proper grinding tools and after some grinding of the inside we got it to fit.
87 MP w/roof sleeper - for sale
New to me 2003 T/K
Is it possible that the receiver got knocked out of square at some point by a prior owner?
"Is it possible that the receiver got knocked out of square at some point by a prior owner?"
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Hitch receivers are heavy steel; if the "hole" is out of square, I am pretty sure that it's due to a manufacturing defect.
I LOVE THIS GROUP!
Larry W you have saved my bacon! I did not know about the hitch clamp as stabilizer (tho I stopped at TWO hitch/truck equip places to ask for ideas -- nuthin, zip, nada!) to keep my bike rack from wobbling on my Ford Edge. Have not tried it on the LD hitch yet, but have been assuming it would wobble there too -- NOW I HAVE A PLAN!
Thank you!
Marcia
Hi Joan; It probably comes down to tolerances and measurements in steel manufacturing. Everybody is shooting for 2", but there is always a set tolerance. It's not going to be 2.000000". Even with a good accuracy, then it could be plus or minus something. Lets say the hole was a little wrong in the minus direction due to worn out manufacturing equipment, or incorrect setup, or shrinkage as it cooled down, and missed by 1 thousandth's of an inch at 1.999". Then the manufacturer of the ball mounting piece, in another country, normally in metric, is finish grinding the piece to 5.08 cm. and gets it pretty close, but the grinding wheel has worn a little and the finished piece is a thousandth over at 2.001". So close, but no cigar. I've seen things that didn't fit right because the paint was thicker than anticipated.
It's been a long time but I seem to remember that my LD receiver (circa 2000) had been sawn, and had a burr on one side on the inside that hadn't been cleaned off. It took just a few minutes with a file to get the ball mount to fit. Later I switched to a tow bar (Roadmaster) and the fit was a bit loose. Shim stock could have fixed that, but it isn't that bad (yet). RonB
Someone screwed up welding the hitch. When I weld them, a 2" square bar is inserted into the receiver to hold the shape while wrapping and welding the back end of the receiver with 1' steel strapping.
The high heat of welding can cause metal to warp.
If planning on towing, consider upgrading the hitch and bumper mounting hardware, their have been failure through the years from low grade hardware.
Hitch receiver upgrade | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157647765653660/)
Rear bumper mounting repair | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157605167526411/)
Larry
The problem, at least on my 2000 MB, was the rounded corners of the receiver, and had nothing to do with the shape. Many slugs ( I believe that is the term for the male part that goes into the receiver) have rounded corners too, and they work fine. The problem was when you had a slug with square corners. By filing the corners of the receiver to make it truly square, problem solved.
Rich - ex 2000 MB - Birch Bay. WA
Is it possible that the receiver got knocked out of square at some point by a prior owner?
Impossible. I had to file away a small, almost impalpable bulge in the middle of the top inner side of the receiver which was going through almost the full length of the receiver. I'm quite sure that this receiver was faulty from the very beginning and it was never noticed because it was never used.
"By filing the corners of the receiver to make it truly square, problem solved."
I've never been accused of logical thinking but let me give it a shot! Instead of filing the receiver, which is already fixed in place, wouldn't it be easier to grind the square corners off the shank that inserts into the receiver until it matches the contour of the receiver?? ::)
Sure, that would work, but why not fix the source of the problem, so that next time you get a square slug you won't have to do it all over again?
Rich
Hi Nick. I believe that the square tube is welded down the middle of one side, from front to back, by machine. So it sounds like it was manufactured wrong. You would think they would check the finished product before selling it. I'm glad you have it fixed now. A little paint and you should have a tight fit. No grease needed, it just picks up more dirt and makes a mess. RonB
I have 4 2" receivers on various vehicles. The OEM LD one is definitely tight, but switching drawbars was the quick simple fix for me. 2000 FL. I actually like tight because it reduces the rattle/clunk factor when traveling with an empty trailer.
I actually like tight because it reduces the rattle/clunk factor when traveling with an empty trailer.
Besides the hitch clamps, the hitch can be tighten by drilling 3/4" holes, one on the side, the other on the bottom and then welding 5/8" nuts over the holes, allowing using two bolts to cinch the tow bar or insert tight.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3943/15541917206_1fc006c3f5.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/pFoovL)
Larry
I believe that the square tube is welded down the middle of one side, from front to back, by machine. So it sounds like it was manufactured wrong.
That makes sense to me. Thanks. I'm glad that a little sweat solved this problem.