I bought a couple of weeks ago a 2001 26 1/2 Mid-Bath Lazy Daze with only 54,500 miles in Washington and drove it down to Arizona in four days. This is my first RV and the trip from Washington to Arizona was the first time that I traveled with such a vehicle. I think I bought a very well maintained motorhome from a woman who owned it for 12 years (as second owner). I have a long and detailed list of maintenance and repair procedures. It includes three visits to the Lazy Daze factory, the last one in 2017 when the roof got a complete overhaul.
Now the Lazy Daze is parked in my driveway in the Arizona sun (yesterday we had for the first time this year 95°F), waiting for the adventures ahead. My plan is to move into the Lazy Daze full-time later this year and spend the next couple of years traveling - mainly boondocking - through the United States. In two weeks I want to go onto a 10-day trip to California and live in the RV while attending a 7-day seminar.
When I started to look for an RV (and at RV's) it became soon clear to me that what I would love most to have was a Lazy Daze, and now I happily own one! At first I wanted to have a rear-bath "party model" with a couch and two chairs in the front. Now I'm very happy that I have a mid-bath model. On my trip back to Arizona I slept very well on one of the couches in the back. A width of 36" is absolutely enough for me and I liked very much that I could close the door to the "automotive part" of the vehicle. It's almost like having a separate bedroom with the additional benefit of an attached bathroom.
Well, let's get to the questions - of which I have many (in-spite of watching many videos and reading many articles). I will start with some questions that I think are most important and then by and by add more (I hope it is OK to put many questions into one thread). And I sure hope that I will get some help and information here.
1.) Batteries, battery switch, shore power. I have two 'Interstate Deep Cycle Battery GC2-XHD Flooded Lead Acid 6V 232Ah' batteries. They are about three years old. The vehicle is now standing since more than three weeks in my driveway. The battery level is still at "Good." The batteries as such look very good and clean. Questions: When, if at all, should I turn the house batteries off? Should I have the rig connected to shore power?
2.) Leveling. How level is level enough? The previous owner used for 12 years nothing but two small spirit levels (one on the driver door, one on the dashboard), and the refrigerator is still working good. I don't think it is possible to level an RV with these tiny devices always perfectly. I bought now a round level that I placed in front of the fridge. A picture is attached here. Is what this level is showing level enough, or would that destroy the fridge quickly? (The fridge is not running right now.)
3.) Tire pressure. I need - for now - a ball park number for the tire pressure. I will be using the RV almost always alone. I guess I will have an average amount of stuff in the vehicle. What tire pressure should I use for now? Do the dual tires in the back both get the same tire pressure? Is it a good idea to have an automatic tire inflator (like this one: Amazon.com: Audew Portable Air Compressor Pump, Auto Digital Tire Inflator,... (https://www.amazon.com/Audew-Portable-Compressor-Inflator-Inflatables/dp/B0719925K5/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525921211&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=jarlink+Portable+Air+Compressor+Pump%2C+12V+150+PSI)) so that I can adjust the tire pressure early in the morning when the tires are still cool? The vehicle has Michelin tires in excellent condition.
4.) CB radio (not so important but kind of interesting). The vehicle came with the original CB radio. This radio is right now not working because the antenna cable broke directly at the antenna. Not a big deal to repair. However, I'm wondering whether CB radio still has any use and value at this time. Are other people here using their CB radio, and if so, what for?
5.) Converter. The vehicle survived the last 17 years with the original single-stage Parallax (Magnetek) 7345 converter. However, I have been reading in several places that it is at least good if not important to upgrade to a modern multi-stage converter. How important is this? If I want to do that, does it matter that I also want to install a solar system with 400-500 watts? Does a solar system change what kind of converter should be installed?
I think that's it for now. I will be grateful for all replies.
Greetings - Nick
Welcome Nick! Congratulations on getting a LD! Hope you get lots of help with your questions, post some pics of your rig when time permits.
You may get some answers by using the search drop down menu. 🐯👍
Welcome to the cult.
1. The LED readout for battery and the tanks is, at best , a guess on the battery's actual condition .
If boon docking is in your future, a battery capacity meter should be on you list of must haves.
While it's OK to leave fully charged batteries sit for a few weeks, you should top them off occasionally.
Some stock converters overcharge the batteries, while others undercharge them.
If you install a 'smart converter' it should be fine to leave the rig plugged in all the time.
2. Dometic says to level the rig so that your feel comfortable. I try to get it as close as possible and
have used the two-sprits-levels-on-the-dash-and-door method for 25 years and find it very convenient and effective.
3. Start with 75-psi. Load the rig and get it weighted ASAP, so you can find and set the manufacturer's specified tire pressures.
4. The CB, IMO, is just about worthless, the only time we ever use it is at LD Caravan Club's GTGs. They use the CB for morning announcements .
When caravanning with others, we use FRS hand-held radios, they work much better than the CB.
Your 2001 has a hidden parking brake, mounted on the rear of the transmission, that has its own oil reservoir.
Next to nobody, including about 99% of mechanics, know that it is there.
Parking brake oil fill | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157627503762313/)
Have it checked and do so routinely, it can be really expensive to repair if it runs out of oil.
A failure can easily also destroy the transmission, about an $8000 repair bill.
5. Already answered.
Have fun.
Larry
3. Tire pressure:
I carry this one from Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-120-Volt-Inflator-HY120/202871788) . It's 120V so I run the generator if needed. It's small but relatively fast. I'd suggest looking into a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) to keep an eye on things. Get one with a temperature sensor. If you think you might tow, get one that can handle 10 sensors.
Since you're in Ariz, search the forum for info on Quartzite in January.
You started out right - you bought one and brought it home ;D
joel
Congratulations and welcome. You noted your tires are in excellent condition. Just remember, especially for RV tires, to check the date codes on the tires. RV tires should be replaced at age 5 or 6 no matter how good the tread looks or how few miles are on them. Also, change the tires if you discover any cracks in the side-walls.
Good luck with your LD.
Welcome, Nick, and congratulations!
I think all your questions have been answered but I'll just add this:
2. Regarding leveling, I would park the rig so the installed levels show you are level. Then, with the fridge off, I would place your round bullseye level inside the freezer compartment to verify the bubble is centered (or very close). If not, adjust your spirit levels as you want that fridge as level as possible.
4. Concur that the CB radio is not worth much except for nostalgia and listening to truckers if you're bored while driving. That being said, it could be a back-up form of communications for cell phone and FRS radio.
Anyway, enjoy your new ride and we look forward to hearing about future adventures!
2.) Leveling. How level is level enough? ... I bought now a round level that I placed in front of the fridge. A picture is attached here. Is what this level is showing level enough, or would that destroy the fridge quickly? (The fridge is not running right now.)
According to the picture you posted, the bubble is almost entirely within the inner circle. Your refrigerator will be fine.
Do the dual tires in the back both get the same tire pressure?
Absolutely! In fact, all tires on the same axle should be inflated to the same pressure.
I bought a couple of weeks ago a 2001 26 1/2 Mid-Bath Lazy Daze with only 54,500 miles in Washington and drove it down to Arizona in four days. This is my first RV and the trip from Washington to Arizona was the first time that I traveled with such a vehicle. I think I bought a very well maintained motorhome from a woman who owned it for 12 years (as second owner). I have a long and detailed list of maintenance and repair procedures. It includes three visits to the Lazy Daze factory, the last one in 2017 when the roof got a complete overhaul.
Now the Lazy Daze is parked in my driveway in the Arizona sun (yesterday we had for the first time this year 95°F), waiting for the adventures ahead. My plan is to move into the Lazy Daze full-time later this year and spend the next couple of years traveling - mainly boondocking - through the United States. In two weeks I want to go onto a 10-day trip to California and live in the RV while attending a 7-day seminar.
When I started to look for an RV (and at RV's) it became soon clear to me that what I would love most to have was a Lazy Daze, and now I happily own one! At first I wanted to have a rear-bath "party model" with a couch and two chairs in the front. Now I'm very happy that I have a mid-bath model. On my trip back to Arizona I slept very well on one of the couches in the back. A width of 36" is absolutely enough for me and I liked very much that I could close the door to the "automotive part" of the vehicle. It's almost like having a separate bedroom with the additional benefit of an attached bathroom.
Well, let's get to the questions - of which I have many (in-spite of watching many videos and reading many articles). I will start with some questions that I think are most important and then by and by add more (I hope it is OK to put many questions into one thread). And I sure hope that I will get some help and information here.
1.) Batteries, battery switch, shore power. I have two 'Interstate Deep Cycle Battery GC2-XHD Flooded Lead Acid 6V 232Ah' batteries. They are about three years old. The vehicle is now standing since more than three weeks in my driveway. The battery level is still at "Good." The batteries as such look very good and clean. Questions: When, if at all, should I turn the house batteries off? Should I have the rig connected to shore power?
2.) Leveling. How level is level enough? The previous owner used for 12 years nothing but two small spirit levels (one on the driver door, one on the dashboard), and the refrigerator is still working good. I don't think it is possible to level an RV with these tiny devices always perfectly. I bought now a round level that I placed in front of the fridge. A picture is attached here. Is what this level is showing level enough, or would that destroy the fridge quickly? (The fridge is not running right now.)
3.) Tire pressure. I need - for now - a ball park number for the tire pressure. I will be using the RV almost always alone. I guess I will have an average amount of stuff in the vehicle. What tire pressure should I use for now? Do the dual tires in the back both get the same tire pressure? Is it a good idea to have an automatic tire inflator (like this one: Amazon.com: Audew Portable Air Compressor Pump, Auto Digital Tire Inflator,... (https://www.amazon.com/Audew-Portable-Compressor-Inflator-Inflatables/dp/B0719925K5/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525921211&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=jarlink+Portable+Air+Compressor+Pump%2C+12V+150+PSI)) so that I can adjust the tire pressure early in the morning when the tires are still cool? The vehicle has Michelin tires in excellent condition.
4.) CB radio (not so important but kind of interesting). The vehicle came with the original CB radio. This radio is right now not working because the antenna cable broke directly at the antenna. Not a big deal to repair. However, I'm wondering whether CB radio still has any use and value at this time. Are other people here using their CB radio, and if so, what for?
5.) Converter. The vehicle survived the last 17 years with the original single-stage Parallax (Magnetek) 7345 converter. However, I have been reading in several places that it is at least good if not important to upgrade to a modern multi-stage converter. How important is this? If I want to do that, does it matter that I also want to install a solar system with 400-500 watts? Does a solar system change what kind of converter should be installed?
I think that's it for now. I will be grateful for all replies.
Greetings - Nick
"The previous owner used for 12 years nothing but two small spirit levels (one on the driver door, one on the dashboard)"Nick, I've LDed for 16 years with this setup and can get pretty darn level with it. As Don M. always says, when the bathroom door doesn't swing to or fro, you are usually level. I use this method, too.Chris
Hey y'all. This is the 1st I've heard about a "hidden parking brake". I have a 1995 MB,26.5 ft. Do i have this mysterious device on mine? Thanks
Hey y'all. This is the 1st I've heard about a "hidden parking brake". I have a 1995 MB,26.5 ft. Do I have this mysterious device on mine? Thanks
Narrow body LDs do not have this issue.
When Ford started building E450 wide-bodies in 1996, they didn't have a wide axle with with a parking brake, so they went with a driveshaft parking brake, mounted on the rear of the transmission. They didn't update the axle until 2008.
Larry
Thanks for all the replies. It's really great! Some comments from my side:
1. & 5.) Converter. I want to replace the converter. Is bestconverter.com the best place to get a new converter?
2.) Leveling. Good to know that I do not have to be too paranoid about this.
3.) Tire pressure. The LD came with a TPMS (TireTraker TT-400C). It was not installed; the previous owner did not like it. I installed it to test it and it basically works. However, the sensors deliver slightly different pressure numbers than my tire pressure meter. I wrote to the company and they replied very quickly, saying the sensors have a +/- 3% variance and that such a system should not replace a quality tire gauge but rather monitor the variances or spikes/losses in pressure/temp while driving. Makes sense to me. For now I uninstalled the system; I will reinstall it later when I know which tire pressure I want to have and then note down what the "correct" reading from each sensor is.
I will add more questions later. I have a list of topics but it takes quite some time to bring them into meaningful sentences that can be understood and answered.
Nick,
I 'm experiencing the same issue with my TPMS. The slight variability appears to be normal. I do use a very accurate, digital pressure gauge for setting my tire pressure.
Bob
Even the best tire pressure gauge will be off a little. Knowing that the gauge and the TPMS will be off a bit should not deter us from using them.
I was in the “Why don’t these things agree with one another” camp. I even fretted that from one tire to another I got slightly different readings from the monitor. I would reinstall the sensor, check pressure, remove sensor, add air install sensor... you get my drift.
It got to the point that I dreaded the obligatory “tire check” before each trip. It’s not that it is difficult, because it isn’t, it’s just that those numbers that I wanted to be perfectly matched are, most likely, unachievable.
This is what prompted me to purchase the “flow through” adapters that I recently installed. Now it is a simple matter of adding air and checking pressure with my Tire Minder Digital Gauge. I’ll trust that number and let the TPMS monitor the tires. I’m not going to sweat it any more.
Life has gotten a lot easier now.
Kent
Ok, here are some more questions:
6.) Leveling blocks. I got some Lego-like leveling blocks with the RV. Are these kind of blocks the best there is? Is anybody using or has experience with the Anderson Camper Levelers (Amazon.com: Andersen Camper Leveler 3604: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM))? They appear to me to be easier to use (and Camco has a very similar product for a lower price) but I don't know whether they can be used with Class C motorhomes.
7.) Backup camera. I have a Garmin RV 770 navigator and could buy a Garmin backup camera for it. I am not so sure whether that is the best idea - I might not have the RV 770 in place when I want to back up. What about a wireless camera system that has the monitor in the rear view mirror? (I could used the 12 V cable for the CB radio to power it.) What are you guys and ladies using?
8.) Kitchen faucet. I would like to install a new kitchen faucet. Do I have to buy an "RV Kitchen Faucet" or is a normal faucet more or less the same? What is the difference between a special RV kitchen faucet and a normal kitchen faucet, if there is any?
Leveling blocks- I have used the Andersen leveler on an LD and a van. I am giving mine away to a neighbor, because they work well on a trailer, but are more trouble than they are worth on a vehicle RV. I also made nice wood levelers, but keep going back to the Lynx levelers, the lego style. More flexibility, easier to store, durable, and always available second hand. Don't forget on the LD to put levelers under the inside rear duals too. This is a dicey operation with the Andersens.
I replaced our kitchen faucet in our LD with a Home Depot sourced unit that fit right in and we like the pull down sprayer. Getting the sink out was the challenge. While I had it out, it was easy to do some more upgrades in the area, like water pump, modern converter/charger, and nice surge protector.
Thanks, Paul. I was hoping that it would be possible to replace the faucet with the sink in place. Seems not to be the case.
Thanks, Paul. I was hoping that it would be possible to replace the faucet with the sink in place. Seems not to be the case.
We installed a home kitchen faucet from Home Depot in our 06 without a need to remove the sink.
Jim
Ok, here are some more questions:
7.) Backup camera. I have a Garmin RV 770 navigator and could buy a Garmin backup camera for it. I am not so sure whether that is the best idea - I might not have the RV 770 in place when I want to back up. What about a wireless camera system that has the monitor in the rear view mirror? (I could used the 12 V cable for the CB radio to power it.) What are you guys and ladies using?
We had a wireless backup camera and mirror mounted monitor installed. The write up is here.
Life's Little Adventures: Backup Camera Install & First Impressions (https://littleadventures-jg.blogspot.com/2018/01/backup-camera-install-first-impressions.html)
Jim
Yes indeed, it can be done in place. I took the SMK out to make the their work in the area easier.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm getting more and more relaxed. Here the next question:
9.) Toilet paper. I'm reading different things about toilet paper - whether it is necessary to buy special RV toilet paper or whether septic safe toilet paper is good enough. I have both (from Camco and from Kirkland) and made a test with both of them in a water glass. After 24 hours in the water both looked the same and fell into different pieces the same when I took them out of the water.
What are you guys and ladies thinking and doing about toilet paper?
What are you guys and ladies thinking and doing about toilet paper?
Use whatever you want, it really doesn't make a big difference as long as you regularly flush the black tank, when dumping.
Holding tanks are just that, a storage container, they are not a sewage processing plant.
Larry
For the safety of the septic systems used by most campgrounds please avoid these.
Are flushable bathroom products safe for sewer and septic systems? | MSU... (http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/are_flushable_bathroom_products_safe_for_sewer_and_septic_systems)
IE toilet paper
I agree with Larry use what you want. We are of a 'boater' mindset "if it doesn't go thru your body it doesn't go into the black tank". We have a 'black' bag that all paper work gets tossed into. The good side benefit is the so called standard black tank full lights are more accurate ie without 50% plus or minus.
For many years, we used Scott single-ply "septic safe" toilet paper. We now use anything we want. We do flush our toilet paper and have never had a problem doing so...just use plenty of water when flushing, particularly solids. And NEVER, EVER leave your black tank open except when draining!
Well, some of us use whatever is cheapest or preferred, but we DO NOT put TP into the black tank...instead, I have a small covered flip top waste can [with a liner inside it] next to the toilet where I place the soiled paper. Since I can be parked for days or even weeks at a time as I boondock, I have a fear of that layer of TP building up in the bottom of the tank; and believe me I've seen first hand what that can cause..not fun! To each their own.
At 10:23 AM 5/18/2018, you wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. I'm getting more and more relaxed. Here the next question:
9.) Toilet paper. I'm reading different things about toilet paper, whether
it is necessary to buy special RV toilet paper or whether septic safe toilet paper is good enough. I have both (from Camco and from Kirkland) and made a test with both of them in a water glass. After 24 hours in the water both looked the same and fell into different pieces the same when I took them out of the water.
What are you guys and ladies thinking and doing about toilet paper? 2001 26 1/2 Mid-Bath
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I also bag it. No toilet paper in the tank for me.
Hi Gini, well in my experience, the TP doesn't settle to the bottom, but floats near the top. I have a clear section on my 'sewer solution' emptying setup, to protect the little tabs on it from wear. So I can see what comes out first. I hope that isn't too graphic, but I'm just sitting there with nothing else to do. When the tank is empty, I flip the lever to shoot water up into the tank. On a TK the outlet is on the bottom of the tank, so several fill/dump cycles do a good job. (And it is a small tank, 18 gallons or so.)
I just got some flushable Kirkland wipes, and tested one for dissolution speed. I use a clear quart plus sized container with a screw on lid, about 1/2 full. in about half an hour I shake the container, and the whole wipe turned to a white pulpy mess. I'm sure it would empty cleanly. I've been using Campa-chem TP or similar for over 35 years and haven't had a problem with any blockages yet. RonB
I wouldn't use just any TP. Some is quite thick and heavy, designed more for "comfort" than ability to dissolve, usually in a municipal sewer and treatment system, not your motorhome. Why not just use Scott single ply septic safe TP, readily available in most grocery stores? Ability to dissolve is best tested by putting a piece or two in a mason jar of water, with the lid on, and shaking briefly. I never notice the Scott paper through my clear hose attachment when dumping. It fully dissolves in the tank.
Using the method from Phred's Poop Sheets (as in the Navy saying, What's the poop?, not #2), I've not found it necessary to make a big production of rinsing the black tank. Fred said, dump the black tank, fill a collapsible bucket with water, dump that down the toilet as a simple rinse, let that drain and close the black valve. Then, while draining the gray tank, fill your bucket again, add a bit of enzyme based holding tank treatment (Eco Save is good), and dump that down the toilet.
This keeps water in the tank at all times so residual solids can't solidify. We usually dump when leaving a camp if possible to avoid arriving somewhere with full tanks and unable to dump. But my form of rinsing is to occasionally leave the tanks full while moving from one camp to the next. The agitation of a MOL full tank while driving keeps things clean I think.
After 23 years of LDing, we have never had an issue using any type of TP. Frequent tank flushing has made the difference.
In our 1983 LD, we used a Hydroflush and flushing stick, stuck down the toilet, with the hose entering through the bathroom window.
I found this to be a pain to use so our 2003 LD had in-tank flushers installed right after delivery.
They clean the tanks from the inside.
Holding tank flusher | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157602104741465/)
Once every summer, when it's good and hot out and the rig is going to be parked for more than a week, I fill the tanks with fresh water and add a cup of septic tank enzymes to each tank, letting them sit for one to two weeks, before dumping.
This treatment digest the buildup off the inside walls of the holding tanks, maintaining their proper volume and also helping keep the flush nozzles clean. It makes the tanks smell better too.
One other suggestion when dumping is too drive around a bit before dumping, it stirs up the contents into a slurry, helping to prevent buildup. Now you have an excuse to take hot laps around the campground.
Larry
I not sure whether I made a mistake with my black water tank.
I bought the RV five weeks ago with empty holding tanks and drove it for four days down from Washington to Arizona. I did not shower in the RV during that trip but I used the toilet - and used not much water with it. According to the readout display the black water tank is almost empty (and I know that this meter is not very reliable). Since I had read that the black water tank should not be emptied until it's rather full I did nothing and had the vehicle just standing in front of my house.
Today I noticed that there was no water in the toilet bowl - and I also noticed a faint not so delicious smell (it's getting hot in Arizona). I put water into the bowl and about six hours later it is still at the same level and there is no smell anymore.
On Friday I go on a nine-day trip to California and will be staying for a week in an RV park.
Now I'm wondering whether it was a bad idea to have the black water tank with some stuff in it standing around for five weeks. Should I just put a bucket of water into the toilet to dilute the stuff a little, go to California, fill up the tank there and then empty it there? That would possible have the additional advantage of having people around me that could give me some practical tips for doing this. Or do I have to do something here? More water in the tank to have it slushing around while I'm driving? A bottle of Aqua-Kem on top of the water (I just bought two bottles for $1.50 on a garage sale)? Or something else? Or just relax? I'm a little insecure here how much worry and care is necessary.
Seems there are several things you might do in this situation. If you have a local dump station, then fill the black tank to about 3/4 full using an outside hose and then dump. Then put about 4 gallons in the tank and feel free to add whatever special ingredient you'd like to deal with odor and so forth. In my book, if the black tank gets regular and complete 1-2 full flushes it seldom needs help with special ingredients.
If you want to add a bit of water to the existing tank and let it sloush around during your next trip, that certainly can help to break up any of the solids. I'd be sure to add at least a 3-4 gallons of water if you suspect the black tank is nearly empty but with solids.
Finally, I'd guess that when your bowl was empty of water, it was because the previous Toilet User was too gentle in closing the valve. It should just be released so that it shuts and seals the valve. Since the bowel is now holding water, the seal may still be in good condition.
Now there's a whole bunch of toilet discussions on this Forum and especially in the The Lazy Daze Companion (http://lazydazearticles.blogspot.com/) . For example, it's important to regularly treat the bowel with a vinegar treatment which I believe is discussed in The Companion along with other suggestions and guidance.
I'm thinking you're okay especially if you make sure there's adequate water in the black tank. So I hope this little bit of guidance will be helpful.
One more bit of advice: DO NOT use Aqua-Kem! It's formaldehyde-based, which would be great if you wanted to preserve your poop in solid lumps. Aside from that, it's terrible for the environment, and is banned in many campgrounds because it poisons septic systems. The MSDS (https://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=20019002) for this product says it contains formaldehyde and methanol.
"Today I noticed that there was no water in the toilet bowl - and I also noticed a faint not so delicious smell (it's getting hot in Arizona). I put water into the bowl and about six hours later it is still at the same level and there is no smell anymore."
It's normal, and would be especially true in dry climates, that the water in the toilet will evaporate over time. When it does, the 'seal' may be diminished or lost, and it's quite possible that some odor may find its way into the coach. Since you added water and the level hadn't dropped a few hours later, the seal is probably okay. I keep my coach at home, check the level every few days, and add a cup or two of water when needed.
"One more bit of advice: DO NOT use Aqua-Kem! It's formaldehyde-based, which would be great if you wanted to preserve your poop in solid lumps. Aside from that, it's terrible for the environment, and is banned in many campgrounds because it poisons septic systems. The MSDS for this product says it contains formaldehyde and methanol."
----
Thanks, Andy; beat me to that admonition; the stuff is toxic! Using plenty of water with each flush of solids, a bacteria/enzyme tank product , e.g., Pure Power, Digest It, or Eco-Save (optional, but very helpful in both black and grey tanks) and flushing the tanks thoroughly, preferably after each dump, are the best practices.
Thanks again for your answers. Aqua-Kem will go into a box with paint and other stuff, waiting for special recycling. I ordered some enzyme-based deodorizer/digester from Amazon. And I understand now that trying to save water when flushing solids is not the best idea.
3.) Tire pressure (revisiting). I have 5 tire pressure meters (2 digital, 2 analog on a 12 volt pump that came with the RV, 1 mechanical). Of these the cheaper digital and the main analog meter show the same pressure, the 3 others show other numbers. I used now - at 6 o'clock in the morning - the cheaper digital meter to adjust the pressure on all tires to 75 PSI. I guess that's OK for now.
However, it remains the question how to find out which meter is really correct. Could I find out i. e. at Big O Tires or similar stores? Do they have calibrated meters?
My dad used to say " A man with two watches never really knows what time it is."
Harold
"Could I find out i. e. at Big O Tires or similar stores? Do they have calibrated meters?"
----
I've never found a pressure gauge at a tire store or a garage or an RV shop to be reliably accurate; YMMV.
You might want to get a "recommended", easy-to-use tire gauge and stick with its readings so as not to drive yourself nuts. This is the gauge I use:
Amazon.com: Accutire MS-4021B Digital Tire Pressure Gauge: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Digital-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1527003576&sr=8-16&keywords=tire+gauge)
Thanks. I ordered the Accutire MS-4021R (in red).
Like many of us, I have several tire gauges in the ol’ corral. I currently use my Tire Minder Digital gauge. So much easier to read than an analog dial.
As Joan said, “I've never found a pressure gauge at a tire store or a garage or an RV shop to be reliably accurate; YMMV.”
This is even stated on the Tire Minder Digital ($25) and Analog ($15) gauge packaging. +/- 1-2 lbs off on these gauges. When you couple that with the stated accuracy on the TPMS itself, it can make for a bit of added confusion. I now rely on the gauges acurracy and just monitor the TPMS for hazard alerts.
Relying on the TPMS for departure pressures can be a little misleading due to early morning temperature differences on opposite sides of the rig. If I’m feeling really cautious, the Flow through valves and the Digital gauge makes checking tire pressure a two minute operation all around.
For the cost of a good gauge, you may want to “chuck” your old gauges for a new one.
Kent
Could I find out i. e. at Big O Tires or similar stores? Do they have calibrated meters?
Calibrated tire gauges are out there but be prepared to pay a hefty price. If it's good enough for your plane, it's probably good enough for the LD:
Tronair 14-6807-6011 Aircraft Tire Air Pressure Gauge (CE) (https://www.skygeek.com/tronair-14-6807-6011-gauge-air-pressure-tire-a-c.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=tronair-14-6807-6011-gauge-air-pressure-tire-a-c&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=CjwKCAjw_47YBRBxEiwAYuKdw3otb_LDgmu_Y_LQncWSGgFkcCrot6037nv_36GUL1WgKOiBjcxCgBoCIN0QAvD_BwE)
When I purchased my Michelins I went to an authorized dealer. They have calibration gauge to test tire pressure gauges. I had my gauge checked at 80 and 30 (lbs per sq in) and next time I get tires I have it rechecked. Just ask if your tire dealer dealership has one. I happened to see the thing in the corner when I pulled up. It is a bit thing and hard to miss. Looks a little like a barometer with a tire valve.
Note; this place worked on trucks, fleet and emergency vehicles.
My dad used to say " A man with two watches never really knows what time it is."
Harold
But, with apologies to Jimmy Buffett, I've heard
It's [Always] 5 o'clock Somewhere.... ;D
Lynne
Or...
“A broken clock is right twice a day”.
Or...
“A broken clock is right twice a day”.
Not if it's digital :D
I bought a couple of weeks ago a 2001 26 1/2 Mid-Bath Lazy Daze with only 54,500 miles in Washington and drove it down to Arizona in four days. This is my first RV and the trip from Washington to Arizona was the first time that I traveled with such a vehicle. I think I bought a very well maintained motorhome from a woman who owned it for 12 years (as second owner). I have a long and detailed list of maintenance and repair procedures. It includes three visits to the Lazy Daze factory, the last one in 2017 when the roof got a complete overhaul.
Now the Lazy Daze is parked in my driveway in the Arizona sun (yesterday we had for the first time this year 95°F), waiting for the adventures ahead. My plan is to move into the Lazy Daze full-time later this year and spend the next couple of years traveling - mainly boondocking - through the United States. In two weeks I want to go onto a 10-day trip to California and live in the RV while attending a 7-day seminar.
When I started to look for an RV (and at RV's) it became soon clear to me that what I would love most to have was a Lazy Daze, and now I happily own one! At first I wanted to have a rear-bath "party model" with a couch and two chairs in the front. Now I'm very happy that I have a mid-bath model. On my trip back to Arizona I slept very well on one of the couches in the back. A width of 36" is absolutely enough for me and I liked very much that I could close the door to the "automotive part" of the vehicle. It's almost like having a separate bedroom with the additional benefit of an attached bathroom.
Well, let's get to the questions - of which I have many (in-spite of watching many videos and reading many articles). I will start with some questions that I think are most important and then by and by add more (I hope it is OK to put many questions into one thread). And I sure hope that I will get some help and information here.
1.) Batteries, battery switch, shore power. I have two 'Interstate Deep Cycle Battery GC2-XHD Flooded Lead Acid 6V 232Ah' batteries. They are about three years old. The vehicle is now standing since more than three weeks in my driveway. The battery level is still at "Good." The batteries as such look very good and clean. Questions: When, if at all, should I turn the house batteries off? Should I have the rig connected to shore power?
2.) Leveling. How level is level enough? The previous owner used for 12 years nothing but two small spirit levels (one on the driver door, one on the dashboard), and the refrigerator is still working good. I don't think it is possible to level an RV with these tiny devices always perfectly. I bought now a round level that I placed in front of the fridge. A picture is attached here. Is what this level is showing level enough, or would that destroy the fridge quickly? (The fridge is not running right now.)
3.) Tire pressure. I need - for now - a ball park number for the tire pressure. I will be using the RV almost always alone. I guess I will have an average amount of stuff in the vehicle. What tire pressure should I use for now? Do the dual tires in the back both get the same tire pressure? Is it a good idea to have an automatic tire inflator (like this one: Amazon.com: Audew Portable Air Compressor Pump, Auto Digital Tire Inflator,... (https://www.amazon.com/Audew-Portable-Compressor-Inflator-Inflatables/dp/B0719925K5/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525921211&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=jarlink+Portable+Air+Compressor+Pump%2C+12V+150+PSI)) so that I can adjust the tire pressure early in the morning when the tires are still cool? The vehicle has Michelin tires in excellent condition.
4.) CB radio (not so important but kind of interesting). The vehicle came with the original CB radio. This radio is right now not working because the antenna cable broke directly at the antenna. Not a big deal to repair. However, I'm wondering whether CB radio still has any use and value at this time. Are other people here using their CB radio, and if so, what for?
5.) Converter. The vehicle survived the last 17 years with the original single-stage Parallax (Magnetek) 7345 converter. However, I have been reading in several places that it is at least good if not important to upgrade to a modern multi-stage converter. How important is this? If I want to do that, does it matter that I also want to install a solar system with 400-500 watts? Does a solar system change what kind of converter should be installed?
I think that's it for now. I will be grateful for all replies.
Greetings - Nick
So you are the lucky
I bought a couple of weeks ago a 2001 26 1/2 Mid-Bath Lazy Daze with only 54,500 miles in Washington and drove it down to Arizona in four days. This is my first RV and the trip from Washington to Arizona was the first time that I traveled with such a vehicle. I think I bought a very well maintained motorhome from a woman who owned it for 12 years (as second owner). I have a long and detailed list of maintenance and repair procedures. It includes three visits to the Lazy Daze factory, the last one in 2017 when the roof got a complete overhaul.
Now the Lazy Daze is parked in my driveway in the Arizona sun (yesterday we had for the first time this year 95°F), waiting for the adventures ahead. My plan is to move into the Lazy Daze full-time later this year and spend the next couple of years traveling - mainly boondocking - through the United States. In two weeks I want to go onto a 10-day trip to California and live in the RV while attending a 7-day seminar.
When I started to look for an RV (and at RV's) it became soon clear to me that what I would love most to have was a Lazy Daze, and now I happily own one! At first I wanted to have a rear-bath "party model" with a couch and two chairs in the front. Now I'm very happy that I have a mid-bath model. On my trip back to Arizona I slept very well on one of the couches in the back. A width of 36" is absolutely enough for me and I liked very much that I could close the door to the "automotive part" of the vehicle. It's almost like having a separate bedroom with the additional benefit of an attached bathroom.
Well, let's get to the questions - of which I have many (in-spite of watching many videos and reading many articles). I will start with some questions that I think are most important and then by and by add more (I hope it is OK to put many questions into one thread). And I sure hope that I will get some help and information here.
1.) Batteries, battery switch, shore power. I have two 'Interstate Deep Cycle Battery GC2-XHD Flooded Lead Acid 6V 232Ah' batteries. They are about three years old. The vehicle is now standing since more than three weeks in my driveway. The battery level is still at "Good." The batteries as such look very good and clean. Questions: When, if at all, should I turn the house batteries off? Should I have the rig connected to shore power?
2.) Leveling. How level is level enough? The previous owner used for 12 years nothing but two small spirit levels (one on the driver door, one on the dashboard), and the refrigerator is still working good. I don't think it is possible to level an RV with these tiny devices always perfectly. I bought now a round level that I placed in front of the fridge. A picture is attached here. Is what this level is showing level enough, or would that destroy the fridge quickly? (The fridge is not running right now.)
3.) Tire pressure. I need - for now - a ball park number for the tire pressure. I will be using the RV almost always alone. I guess I will have an average amount of stuff in the vehicle. What tire pressure should I use for now? Do the dual tires in the back both get the same tire pressure? Is it a good idea to have an automatic tire inflator (like this one: Amazon.com: Audew Portable Air Compressor Pump, Auto Digital Tire Inflator,... (https://www.amazon.com/Audew-Portable-Compressor-Inflator-Inflatables/dp/B0719925K5/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525921211&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=jarlink+Portable+Air+Compressor+Pump%2C+12V+150+PSI)) so that I can adjust the tire pressure early in the morning when the tires are still cool? The vehicle has Michelin tires in excellent condition.
4.) CB radio (not so important but kind of interesting). The vehicle came with the original CB radio. This radio is right now not working because the antenna cable broke directly at the antenna. Not a big deal to repair. However, I'm wondering whether CB radio still has any use and value at this time. Are other people here using their CB radio, and if so, what for?
5.) Converter. The vehicle survived the last 17 years with the original single-stage Parallax (Magnetek) 7345 converter. However, I have been reading in several places that it is at least good if not important to upgrade to a modern multi-stage converter. How important is this? If I want to do that, does it matter that I also want to install a solar system with 400-500 watts? Does a solar system change what kind of converter should be installed?
I think that's it for now. I will be grateful for all replies.
Greetings - Nick
So you are the lucky person that bought that Lazy Daze. You got a great deal! Congratulations. I called on it but she said it was sold and would call me if the deal fell through. Fortunately I found another good deal shortly thereafter and flew down to San Diego to buy it and just got home to Washington state. I bought a 1997 24 ft front lounge that needed TLC but was in good shape. I resealed the roof immediately and spent the last two days bringing the paint back to life with 16 ounces of Turtle Wax and lots of elbow grease. The 1500 mile trip home was fun except the stretch through LA and the 460 performed great. Good luck with yours I am loving mine.