As I was reading some older posts and visiting off-line with one of my LDO Amigos, I finally decided to order two (2) spare parts which have been on my to-do list for at least a year. So I ordered a backup water pump and an extra set of toilet seals. We just don't want to be in the middle of nowhere and need these parts.
While I feel comfortable replacing the toilet seals, I've not needed to replace the water pump. So I reviewed 2-3 YouTube videos and several pages in The Lazy Daze Companion at The Lazy Daze Companion: Water Pumps (http://lazydazearticles.blogspot.com/search/label/Water%20Pumps) . I especially liked the idea of installing shut-off valves on both the intake and output side of the pump. This is one of those suggestions from experienced RVers that just makes so much sense. The following is a cut & paste of that section of The Companion.
Tips
- There is no way to remove your water pump without draining your fresh water tank first. Installing a valve between the tank and the pump will solve that problem. And while you're at it, adding a valve on the output side of the pump as well gives you the ability to use city water with a faulty, leaking pump. I bought two plastic valves that would work on the type of tubing present. They had 3/4" threaded connections to which I attached 1/2" barb to 3/4" threaded nylon adapters. I connected the valves in line on the inflow and outflow hoses, shut both off, and re-pressurized the system. With this set-up I can completely remove the pump while my shore water supply is under pressure. Here's how to do it:
1) Purchase two plastic shut-off valves with 3/4" threaded female fittings.
2) Purchase 4 nylon adapters, 1/2" hose barb male to 3/4" threaded male.
3) Purchase 4 hose clamps big enough to go over the hoses.
4) If you don't have teflon tape, get some.
5) Using teflon tape on the threads, connect two of the adapters to the ends of each of the valves.
6) Turn off your pump, open a faucet and drain your fresh water tank.
7) The hoses attach to the Extreme pump with snap-on and snap-off plastic clips. Put a towel under the pump and remove the plastic clips. You should need no tools for this.
8) Use a magic marker to note where you want the valves to be.
9) Pull off the nearest hose.
10) Cut the hose at the magic marker mark, put the hose clamps onto the hose ends, push the barbs fully into the hoses, and place and tighten the hose clamps.
11) Replace the hose fitting on the pump and re-attach the plastic clip. Note that the narrower opening on the clip should face toward the hose and the wider opening toward the pump. If necessary to rotate the valve position, loosen the hose clamps by the valve, turn the valve to the desired position and re-tighten the clamps.
12) Repeat steps 9-11 with the farther hose.
13) Open both valves.
14) Refill your fresh water tank, purge air from the system and turn the pump on to check for leaks.
Btw, Home Depot has a brass fitting that might just work at Apollo 1/2 in. Brass Insert Poly Ball Valve-POLYV12 - The Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1-2-in-Brass-Insert-Poly-Ball-Valve-POLYV12/300850937) . The same LDO Amigo mentioned above also suggested this part in lieu of the plastic parts listed in The Companion. At any rate, I hope my little bit of Companion Exploration is helpful.
- “There is no way to remove your water pump without draining your fresh water tank first. “
Unless you pinch off the water line with locking pliers like these. Wrap tape around the jaws so you don’t risk puncturing the water line. I had a pump fail on the road a number of years ago and this did the trick.
Milwaukee 48-22-3406 6" Long Nose Locking Pliers with Grip - - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-3406-Long-Locking-Pliers/dp/B00LJOR806/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1520392224&sr=8-22&keywords=locking+pliers)
Your solution is certainly more elegant. Nice work.👍👍
Need to add it to my one-of-these-days list.
Ed
Unless you pinch off the water line with locking pliers like these. Wrap tape around the jaws so you don’t risk puncturing the water line. I had a pump fail on the road a number of years ago and this did the trick.
Needle nose vise grips, wrapped with tape, can be an handy and effective shut off tool.
You do need to make sure the line being pinched is soft and flexible, and by not using it on PEX.
If you want something more professional, there are a lot of choices.
Hose pinch pliers are found in many mechanic's toolboxes.
Sears.com (http://www.sears.com/search=craftsman%20hose%20pinch%20pliers)
Larry
So I ordered a backup water pump and an extra set of toilet seals. We just don't want to be in the middle of nowhere and need these parts.
A spare pump is a good thing to carry, if it fails, the water system is near worthless.
Toilet seals are a good spare but they are something that usually do not fail catastrophically, they normally start to fail over time. A cleaning may restore the seal.
Things that I have seen fail multiple times, parts I carry.
A blown toilet water valve or vacuum breaker assembly will spoil your day, they are plastic and they do fail.
A badly leaking faucet is another point of failure. A way of plugging a faucet's water lines is useful.
Temporarly water faucet plugs. | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157607802072647/with/2918970387/)
The water heater's control board is a common failure, my spare has been loaned out several times, at GTGs.
The refrigerator's control board or interior temperature sensor. A dead refrigerator is a PIA, and it always seems to happen in the summer time, on a Saturday afternoon.
I have had two propane regulators fail, one developed a bad leak, the other plugged up and stopped flowing. Either way, your refrigerator stops working, unless electric power is available.
Besides an assortment of adhesives, fuses, tapes, bulbs, wire...etc, I carry a 8' piece of Eternabond tape.
It can be used to repair a wide range of things, from holes in a hatch cover to a cracked and leaking water or holding tank.
Even if you never use some of these items, they may be useful to your camping companions and you can be a hero.
Larry
A few more items on the basic 'carry spares' list:
(1 1/2”, if applicable) and 3” holding tank gate valves.
Dump hose and fittings.
Complete set of coach and chassis fuses.
Nylon water heater plugs.
Running/clearance light bulbs and lenses.
Ed-
Should you re-pipe your water pump, you might want to consider moving it out from behind the electric power center. Here's a link (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=261) to the photo album showing what I did.
As far as spares go, the other folks have covered things pretty well. In our case, I had some custom trailer light wiring, and was glad I carried a spare module and the wiring tools to replace it.
Mark
Former owner 1997-8 MB
Should you re-pipe your water pump, you might want to consider moving it out from behind the electric power center. Here's a link (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=261) to the photo album showing what I did.
Hello Mark. Nice work on that relocated water pump. Is the new location in the bottom of the cabinet in the bathroom? I've suggested that change to my DW and she has advised me that it's her space and to leave it alone. If I can find another place to put that water pump, I might be in a position to negotiate.
Ed-
My reply is off-topic, so I sent you an e-mail message instead.
Mark
Former owner 1997-8 MB
I'm with Margee on this one. the space behind the electrical panel is tight and busy, but the pump does fit there, and that space is useless for anything else. OTOH, the space under the sink is quite useful. I have laundry detergent and bleach stored there. In over 9 years of fulltiming, I have had to work on the old ShurFlo Extreme 5.7 several times but since putting in a Revolution, I have only needed to work on it once. From my perspective, with little need to access the pump, I think it works well behind the electrical panel, though Mark did do a nice job moving it.
Ken F in NM
I keep an extra waste gate for black water, about 17.00 , can be replaced on the road. (4 screws w/nuts)
I've seen these have handles sheared off when backing up on incline.
Things that I have seen fail multiple times, parts I carry.
A blown toilet water valve or vacuum breaker assembly will spoil your day, they are plastic and they do fail.
A badly leaking faucet is another point of failure. A way of plugging a faucet's water lines is useful.
Temporarly water faucet plugs. | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157607802072647/with/2918970387/)
The water heater's control board is a common failure, my spare has been loaned out several times, at GTGs.
The refrigerator's control board or interior temperature sensor. A dead refrigerator is a PIA, and it always seems to happen in the summer time, on a Saturday afternoon.
Larry
Someone suggested that I should carry a toilet spring cartridge kit also. Is that something that is prone to failure?
Does Dinosaur make control boards for the water heater and is it referred to as an ignitor board?
We recently noticed a leak at the vacuum breaker on the toilet. I ordered the kit but on closer inspection, it actually appeared to be leaking at the 1/2" grommet. I replaced that without having to remove the toilet and so far it seems to have fixed the problem. This raises a question though. What is the symptom of a failed vacuum breaker?
Jim
Someone suggested that I should carry a toilet spring cartridge kit also. Is that something that is prone to failure?
Does Dinosaur make control boards for the water heater and is it referred to as an ignitor board?
We recently noticed a leak at the vacuum breaker on the toilet. I ordered the kit but on closer inspection, it actually appeared to be leaking at the 1/2" grommet. I replaced that without having to remove the toilet and so far it seems to have fixed the problem. This raises a question though. What is the symptom of a failed vacuum breaker?
I have replace several leaking valves. When they fail, the water systems needs to be left off. I carry a spare, along with a vacuum breaker.
Dinosaur does make a ignitor for the Atwood water .
Amazon.com: Dinosaur Electronics (UIB S) Small Universal Ignitor Board:... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MG2IK/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1heater.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPJ2PB0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Amazon.com: Dinosaur Electronics 2TABMOUNTK Tab Mounting Kit: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPJ2PB0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The old control board is carried as a spare ands been used by two friends, whose boards failed while we were camping with them. Their bad boards have been replaced with Dino boards.
A bad vacuum breaker will leak.
Larry
I have replace several leaking valves. When they fail, the water systems needs to be left off. I carry a spare, along with a vacuum breaker.
Dinosaur does make a ignitor for the Atwood water .
Amazon.com: Dinosaur Electronics 2TABMOUNTK Tab Mounting Kit: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MG2IK/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1heater.[url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPJ2PB0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]Amazon.com: Dinosaur Electronics (UIB S) Small Universal Ignitor Board:...[/url]
Amazon.com: Dinosaur Electronics 2TABMOUNTK Tab Mounting Kit: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPJ2PB0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The old control board is carried as a spare ands been used by two friends, whose boards failed while we were camping with them. Their bad boards have been replaced with Dino boards.
A bad vacuum breaker will leak.
Larry
Thanks, Larry. Do you know if the toilet spring cartridge is prone to failure?
Jim