Hi,
Today I'm going to look at a 1991 22' LD model 22M. Chevy 350 engine.
I've been reading through the forums and see that models before early 1990's not recommended. However, some say no pre-1990, others mention a change in early 1990s, so I'm wondering if a 1991 is considered in the "many problems" older category or the "newer" version that is less problematic.
The tag on the vehicle actually says December 1990, but it's advertised as a 1991.
Seller says he purchased from the original owner a few years ago and (of course) says there have been no leaks.
Opinions, please. I would prefer something newer, but I really need the shortest MH possible, but one with a rear sofa or dinette, which this one has. There are very few MHs in this size category that have such a configuration.
Hope to get some opinions soon! Thanks!
Most people will tell you not a good idea based on year and engine size and to keep looking. You will not be able to toad and you will have less power for climbing up hills along with other issues. So it all depends on what type of traveling you plan to do. Others on here can give you more info on why this year is not a good choice. But in the end only you know if this one is the one for you but expect to have to put some money into it. Hopefully you know what to look for on inspection. There is a list of things to check posted on this forum. I bought a 89 22 ft with a Chevy 350 2 years ago and love it, just the right size for me. Did have to put some money into it when I got it, like a brake job and new tires for road safety reasons. I did a roof reseal with a friend and replaced the escape hatch. I do not toad or travel up to high elevations as the wife has high blood pressure.
Thanks!
I checked it out today. I looked for signs of water intrusion, etc. This was, by far, the best looking RV I've looked at so far. Despite it's age, it looked amazingly good. Very little rust (a few spots on the truck nose where a bit of paint had chipped), no sign of leaks, everything started up and worked on first try. The seller had put in real hardwood floors, solar panels, a rear back up monitor, stereo. The above cabin bed and area looked almost new. I was pleasantly surprised.
The tires looked good, but the guy did say he has not changed them in the 3 years he's owned the RV, and that he's put 4k on them. So I would probably need to get new ones. I drove it briefly on the freeway and it drove well, though I noticed that on braking it did pull to the left. My thought is it needs alignment. If there is some known problem of which this would be indicative, I would love to hear so I can look into it further.
It's also not cheap- he's asking $12500. But where I live, there has been a shortage of used RVs since the fires in N. California. The prices on used RVs also have gone up ridiculously since then. And anything worth buying goes super fast- I missed a call one Saturday about an RV posted the night before. By time I talked to the seller 2 hours later, he had already sold it.
Anyway, I told the guy I want to buy it. He is going to get it smogged (passed 6 months ago, but seller has to smog before selling here in CA), and then we're going to figure out how to get it to me. He's an hour drive from me with about 12 miles of very, very windy mountain roads that I am in no way ready to drive on my first try. I get nervous driving those roads in my Corolla!
As for use- this is primarily to serve as a mobile office locally. I may have to go up some hills in San Francisco, but not often. I would love to take it on a road trip, but that's not the reason for buying it. If it seems good for a road trip, i will, but for now this is just the right configuration for my needs, and appears to be in fine condition for local use.
Did have to put some money into it when I got it, like a brake job and new tires for road safety reasons.
I see you're also in CA- how much did you end up paying for the brake job and the tires? I assume you also have 6 wheels?
Hi MEandtheDOGS. Welcome to the fold (almost). Like a house in escrow it's not over until money changes hands. Most people here would like a better name to address you by.
You really need to know the age of the tires. All tires have a date code molded into the sidewalls near the word 'DOT'. The internet will help you read the code. Pretty easy to read five tires (spare might be facing away) you can get to. You might be able to read the date code on the inside duals from under the motorhome. Up to five years old is the acceptable age, maybe six if they look really good with no cracks in the sidewalls, even wear pattern, no cuts or bruises etc. Over age 'good' looking tires can fail suddenly, and having a flat in a heavy vehicle like a motorhome isn't good!
If the MH pulls left when you apply the brakes, it's probably a brake problem. Do have a mechanic look at the brakes , indeed the whole motorhome, before you agree to buy it. Problem areas can affect the value greatly in a 28 year old vehicle. I'm not sure which tag said 1990, but it's a 1990. I have a '99 (chassis) that the factory delivered in February 2000. It is still a '99.
Hope this helped a little. Let us know what happens... RonB
. Over age 'good' looking tires can fail suddenly, and having a flat in a heavy vehicle like a motorhome isn't good!
Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I had read that during my months of research, which is why I asked seller if he'd gotten new tires since purchase. I knew that good looking tread didn't mean they were good, as it could just mean they sat for years unused and the rubber could have deteriorated without any noticeable wear.
As for the potential brake issue- not good! But honestly, I figure at minimum I'll need to get some basic work done, such as brake job and new tires. My gut feeling on the seller and the RV is good. For a few reasons I won't go into, I believe he's being honest about having his mechanic do basic maintenance and not finding anything major. I also think he's not that knowledgeable about mechanical stuff, as he's more into the actual house part of the vehicle. But overall, I do have a good feeling about the situation. And I'm a very careful person that generally assumes the worst!
I am hoping the sale happens. He has pulled the ad, but I sensed he was having some kind of second thoughts about selling. My main concern is he'll decide to keep it. He is obviously proud of the improvements he made, and really likes the RV. I guess I'll find out soon enough.
-Lisa
Lisa, welcome! To decipher your tire date codes, look at Andy B's site which is linked off of the main forum page:
More information (http://www.andybaird.com/travels/LD-guide-web/info.htm)
Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Without actually inspecting this particular LD, it's impossible to know its overall condition, but I suggest that you hold off on any buying commitment until you or someone with experience thoroughly checks out the chassis, engine, systems, and components. This checklist is comprehensive, and may help to clarify the process :
RV Inspection Checklist (http://changingears.com/rv-checklist-inspection.shtml)
Unless this rig has been meticulously maintained and serviced; it's significantly overpriced for its age (and mileage, but that's often a less critical factor than age *if* the motorhome has been cared for.) I would certainly not take the owner's word that 'there are no leaks'; unless it has been re-sealed (roof, windows, including the overcab, vents, etc.), I'd be very surprised if a rig of this age did not leak somewhere - again, if maintenance has not been done - and that 'somewhere' could likely include multiple points of water entry and subsequent damage.
Are you able to do at least some of the (inevitable) engine/mechanical, chassis, components/systems, appliance repairs and replacements yourself? You are probably aware that shop charges (and costs in general!) in the Bay Area are very high, and a 1991 is almost certain to require additional cash outlay past the purchase price (again, too much!).
Since in one post you state that you 'told the guy I want to buy it', I believe it's fair to ask if you're genuinely seeking opinions and caveats or validation for a decision you've already made?
As ever, YMMV.
The primary issue regarding the 90-91 model year was the elimination of the cab-over window. Prior to that year, the window seal was prone to leaking. Over time, water intrusion would lead to rot in the front section of the wood framing.
After the switch-over, LD began painting black two large fake windows in the front. They did this for around 30 years until finally just allowing the fake windows to remain white. However, the fake windows are still slightly raised to avoid presenting a large fascia of smooth surface like a 'bread truck'.
The 350 engine is another issue, but isn't really the prime consideration. Typically, they had carburetors, which isn't the most efficient, but mechanically the RVs still work. Water damage is the thing that corrupts the basic underlying structure & drives down the value.
Regardless, the price seems a little high. We have a '93 22' with the electronic fuel injected 454, 70,000 miles and a lot of brake/suspension/cooling system work (read: brand new). If we ever decided to sell, I figure I could sell it for around the price of the one you're looking at down here in SoCal.
However, at this point the RV is essentially free, so we plan on keeping it forever. We rarely use it (10x/year), but it's there when we want it. We don't need $12.5k, and we certainly couldn't enjoy the type of experiences the RV provides when we do use it - for almost any kind of money.
"The primary issue regarding the 90-91 model year was the elimination of the cab-over window."
"The tag on the vehicle actually says December 1990, but it's advertised as a 1991."
-----
I have no idea whether the rig in question has a window in the overcab, but, AFAIK, the overcab window was eliminated in models manufactured around mid-1991.
"According to Andy," (wouldn't that make a good title to a book or movie?) the cabover window was eliminated in mid-1990:
Changes by year (http://www.andybaird.com/travels/LD-guide-web/changes.htm#1990)
Personally, I never did like that big window in my '85. It was prone to flexing and cracking, as well.
"The primary issue regarding the 90-91 model year was the elimination of the cab-over window."
"The tag on the vehicle actually says December 1990, but it's advertised as a 1991."
I have no idea whether the rig in question has a window in the overcab, but, AFAIK, the overcab window was eliminated in models manufactured around mid-1991.
If, for some reason, it has the older, multi piece front cap, I would be very cautious.
90% of the older front caps I have inspected have leaks, either in the corners or from the front window.
If it has the new, one piece cap, that's fine.
The front corners of the cabover are still spots that can leak and should be closely inspected, especially under the mattress.
Overhead cab rot is common and very expensive to fix.
The 1991 model was a big improvement over the 1990 and older LDs
Besides the new, one-piece front cap, the engine had a better fuel injection installed as well as the superior 4L80E transmission.
The front suspension does have weaknesses, the pitman and idler arms wear rapidly and could be the cause of the pulling.
Many 350 V8 powered LDs have replaced engines due to overheating, caused by the G-30's marginal cooling system .
Definitely have it checked out and serviced. I suggest installing a transmission temperature gauge too.
Larry
"the overcab window was eliminated in models manufactured around mid-1991."
----
My error; mid-1990 Apologies! ::)
The primary issue regarding the 90-91 model year was the elimination of the cab-over window. Prior to that year, the window seal was prone to leaking. Over time, water intrusion would lead to rot in the front section of the wood framing.
We have a '93 22' with the electronic fuel injected 454, 70,000 miles and a lot of brake/suspension/cooling system work (read: brand new). If we ever decided to sell, I figure I could sell it for around the price of the one you're looking at down here in SoCal.
Hi! Thanks for that info. It does not have the front window. When I got up in the overhead bunk and asked if the curtain opened, the seller said "no, there's no window." Since it looked like there was one from the outside, I was surprised to hear that! There is one small window on either side of the top bunk, but that's it. I did check around windows and doors for signs of water damage and I did not see anything- no discoloration (and it was all original siding, etc., including the padded wall bumpers), no soft spots in the walls when I pressed. I looked in the cabinets, under the sink, etc, and saw nothing.
I am most definitely not a mechanic or structural expert, but in terms of water damage, my job entails in part with dealing with housing habitability problems, so I'm at least somewhat familiar with the signs. The seams on this thing looked good, too. The one thing I forgot to do was climb to the roof. He did say he had caulked/sealed all seams around roof openings. He's a contractor, which gives me some hope that he knows what he is talking about.
As for the price- yeah, too high. I do not dispute that at all. But the prices of RVs around here have been ridiculous and getting worse. It's kind of insane. And I do not have the time or ability to travel far to check out ones in cheaper areas, so I'm kind of stuck with what's available within a couple hours of one of the most expensive areas in the country.
Snerf- you sure you don't want to sell yours? I'm happy to fly down there and pick it up!
As for the model year- I remember reading that with RVs the vehicle is often one model year behind the RV itself. The tag to which I am referring was the metal ID with the VIN on it. So the truck model is from December 1990. From what people have posted above about the front window, the house part must be from 1991. I'm not sure what that means in terms of the truck mechanically, but at least the house part would seem to be the improved one.
He's an hour drive from me with about 12 miles of very, very windy mountain roads that I am in no way ready to drive on my first try. I get nervous driving those roads in my Corolla!
As for use- this is primarily to serve as a mobile office locally. I may have to go up some hills in San Francisco, but not often.
Hah! Having driven my 23.5 TK in San Francisco a couple of times (and never again), I’d rather drive those 12 miles of twisties for sure! 😜. — Jon
It does not have the front window. When I got up in the overhead bunk and asked if the curtain opened, the seller said "no, there's no window." Since it looked like there was one from the outside, I was surprised to hear that!
Which one of these does the front cap look like?
I don't know! I don't have a pic in front of me right now because he took the ad down per my request.
Are there 3 pics? The one in the middle is not accessible.
Just added. Try refreshing your browser.
i did check under around the overhead bunk for signs of water intrusion, though. Found none. No smells, no bubbling, no stains.
Just sent a text to the guy for a pic of front cabin. I also have the number to the mechanic that has serviced the vehicle for both owners, so I'm going to call and ask about service records.
OK, I got pics. I think its like the two blue ones? I don't know where to upload pics. I don't have run posted online anywhere.
Sounds then as if it is the one-piece cap that Larry mentioned in his post above, and that there is indeed no window in the front cap.
You can download photos by clicking on the dark gray "reply" button below this post, then scroll down until you see "Add files by dragging & dropping or selecting them."
Here.
I also saw the pink slip- it is listed on the title as 1991 Lazy Daze. And I talked to the mechanic. He said his neighbor, the first owner, is a master mechanic who did all his own maintenance. Apparently the first owner sold it to get something with a bigger engine so he could tow motorcycles and and other vehicles he worked on.
All in all, while I anticipate having to put money into the vehicle, it seems like it's the real deal. As for the price, the floors this guy put in are real hardwood, which I think is crazy, but the are nice. And he put in some kind of fancy replacement exhaust fans, a blue tooth stereo system and the rear camera.
Oh, and not to make all of you envious, BUT, there is also a CB radio. That's right. The first owner put it in. I know you all wish you had one.
That's the newer, one piece cap.
The 1991, and newer, G30 chassis was superior to the previous models.
The 350 engine had internal changes and the transmission was upgraded to the 4L80E, adding overdrive.
The engine will last much longer and get better mileage than the earlier models which lacked overdrive.
Larry
Ask him who put the new Lazy Daze decal on the front cap. You can see the naturally faded & sun damaged pin-striping on the hood of the van itself below. (It looks just like ours - same color, etc - except our decal is faded and chipped similarly to the pin striping.)
I'm going to go out on a limb here and predict it has had water intrusion in the front cap. The reason is "Lake Newton": water (and this can be just dew collecting and flowing down to the corners) naturally collects on the roof over the front cab. It's just the dirty secret of LDs; an owner would need to be super anal - over a period of decades - to keep the seam sealing new and refreshed.
Ain't gonna happen - a few on this board are that particular, maybe, but not the great bulk of RV owners who love & use their RVs for 2-3 years, then slowly lose interest.
Ours had some water damage over the passenger corner. I sawed out and replaced the spars, filled the gaps with insulation & foam, and did a good job on replacing the siding and wallpaper to match the existing interior fairly seamlessly. This was around 5 years ago, and the entire job is still holding up pretty well.
It's just the nature of RVs to be expensive maintenance hogs. You can either buy new(er) and suffer the depreciation, or buy older, and make friends with a really good mechanic. Typically, on a rig like the one you're considering, the true value o/s the Bay area is probably $5k less - if you could even find one. So, in the big scheme of things, is $5k really that much money vs actually getting hold of a nice 22' RV?
If you go new(er) and the price range is $35-40k, then $5k swings in value become more of the norm. Yet, now you have what begins to be "real" money invested vs an almost throw-away level down around $10k. It's all part of the game. The one issue I would have is you appear to be operating under a time restraint. That's usually a bad thing - the better deals come along after doing research and figuring out values & models and being patient for the right vehicle.
Meandthedogs,
Sounds like you have made your decision, it’s easy to fall in love with a Lazy Daze!
Many LDs have CB radios, FWIW, and mine resides under the dinette, since using it is so distracting and noisy my partner won’t tolerate it. But anyway...
Our ‘92 Mid Bath (MB) was a priced well when we bought it 3 years ago, at $9000. It looked pristine, inside and out, and was continually used, well maintained, and store inside most of its life. In the first two years we spent that much again in mechanical and house upgrades, repairs and additions, not including any labor, as I was able to do the work.
I hope you have a good sized treasure chest earmarked for any RV of this age, and that you don’t have to use it! Good luck!
ps, I wish my front end Lazy Daze tumbling letters looked that good. If they have been replaced, please tell us the source, I want to “upgrade” mine, front and rear.
Hey, pic #3 is mine. Not my pic, but my machine, from the 1+ year-old ad... :)
(Not the final price, either.)
I see you're also in CA- how much did you end up paying for the brake job and the tires? I assume you also have 6 wheels?
I have a complete brake job- replace all the lines, new boosters, master cylinder, brake drums, and so on, in other words a total new brake system. $3000 and worth every penny. My 89 has 16 1/2 wheels not 16's replaced all 6 because of age.
Typically, on a rig like the one you're considering, the true value o/s the Bay area is probably $5k less - if you could even find one. So, in the big scheme of things, is $5k really that much money vs actually getting hold of a nice 22' RV?"
"The one issue I would have is you appear to be operating under a time restraint. That's usually a bad thing - the better deals come along after doing research and figuring out values & models and being patient for the right vehicle."
Hi, not sure if you're saying that the price is too much even for the bay area or it's about what one could expect since everything is overpriced here... but it is a nice 22' RV and pretty much exactly what I've been looking for in the price range I was expecting. I would love to find something cheaper, but I have actually been looking for several months and doing research. My other top pick would've been a Toyota MH with a rear dinette, but the Toyotas are such a cult thing now that even total pieces of crap go for way, WAY too much, and after checking one out with the floorplan I needed, it really felt too small and "casual" to be used as a mobile office.
There are few RVs that have the configuration I need in the smallest length possible, which is what led me to the LD- I'd seen a couple, looked at the older model floorplans, and read on here and elsewhere about the reliability. And though many people talk about the older Chevy and Fords being harder to get serviced, I guess because I grew up with my dad always fixing his own Chevy vans, it seems like the older ones are actually simpler and don't require fancy computerized equipment to maintain. In a pinch there are people like my neighbors across the street that work on cars on the street. That works for me!
As for putting money into- I fully expect that and factor it into the cost. This happens to be a business purchase, so at least repairs will be business expense! I also just found out today that the stepfather of a friend of mine is an airplane mechanic and an RV enthusiast. Apparently he likes to work on them (and painted one his own RVs with airplane paint!), so my friend is going to put me in touch with him.
And finally- yes, I am buying it. Fingers crossed. Seller got it smogged today. It's a matter now of when he can drive it to me because there is no way I am trusting myself or anyone but a person experienced in driving that thing down Hwy 17!
Many LDs have CB radios, FWIW, and mine resides under the dinette, since using it is so distracting and noisy my partner won’t tolerate it. But anyway...
whaaaaat?! Does that mean I can shout out to other LD drivers when I see them?!
I don't know how to use a CB, but I'm going to learn. If for no other reason than to impress my friends.
whaaaaat?! Does that mean I can shout out to other LD drivers when I see them?!
I don't know how to use a CB, but I'm going to learn. If for no other reason than to impress my friends.
Paul Newton, Lazy Daze Owner, and the GTG Wagon Master had every one tune CB channel 7? in the day for the daily GTG news, so if all parties were on the tuned to chanel 7 , Say "Howdy!" so indicated the owners manual etc.
"And finally- yes, I am buying it. Fingers crossed. Seller got it smogged today. It's a matter now of when he can drive it to me because there is no way I am trusting myself or anyone but a person experienced in driving that thing down Hwy 17!"
Lisa,
Good for you. You've obviously done your research, got plenty of good guidance here so knew what to expect, due diligence as far as carefully inspecting the coach and it's systems, and have talked to the mechanic who's been caring for it. You know you'll have to spend some money for tires and brakes. If you're like most everyone else here, you'll probably be spending more for your own peace of mind as you get familiar with it, and to make it just the way you like it soon enough.
As for the price, you know your market and your needs. If it serves your purposes and you're comfortable with the price that's all that matters IMHO. When I found my coach, I'd been looking for over a year. It was just what I wanted, and like you I felt very good about the owners and the condition of the coach, so didn't even argue on the price. No regrets.
Welcome. Good luck and safe travels!
Bill
BTW - I do part time tech support for my company using VOIP, and I've worked from some great locations while out on the road in my LD. I can set up my office in about 15 minutes in the morning...all I need is a nearby AT&T cell tower. It works great for me as an 'office on the road'.
whaaaaat?! Does that mean I can shout out to other LD drivers when I see them?!
I don't know how to use a CB, but I'm going to learn. If for no other reason than to impress my friends.
Yes, you can shout out on the CB when seeing another LD.
It might not be effective, many LDs do not have CB and the ones that do usually have them turned off, to avoid the annoying noises . CBs are an old, next to obsolete technology .
When caravanning with others these days, we use FRS handheld radios; better range and sound quality.
Without a CB? You can still wave a lot.
Larry
My 2003 was delivered with a CB; in over 14 years, it has been used only during infrequent 'caravanning' with another rig and to hear 'morning announcements' - when I remember to turn it on! - at CC outings at Live Oak. As Larry said, a CB is pretty much an obsolete technology, and the ancient Cobra model that was standard issue in LDs of my rig's vintage has plenty of downsides, i.e., short range/'line of sight' connectivity only!
I had to look up 'FRS'; another gap in my education! ;)
Family Radio Service (FRS) | Federal Communications Commission (https://www.fcc.gov/wireless/bureau-divisions/mobility-division/family-radio-service-frs)
Heading towards Las Vegas once, I did find the CB useful to get information from truckers on why we were virtually parked on the I-15. Had to turn it off though as I had my teenage son with me and those truckers were using, shall we say, "salty" language. Turns out truckers like young women in convertibles . . . who knew?
Today, there are much better options for communicating.
truckers like young women in convertibles . . . who knew?
#MeToo
#ToxicMasculinity
My priority has always been being able to stop the rig. It's one thing if your RV won't start, it's another if it can't stop. The first leaves you (temporarily) stranded, the latter ... well, I don't even want to think about it.
Hydro-boost, master, (some) lines, calipers, rotors, etc - yeah, a couple of $thousand sounds about right.
“Heading towards Las Vegas once, I did find the CB useful to get information from truckers on why we were virtually parked on the I-15. Had to turn it off though as I had my teenage son with me and those truckers were using, shall we say, "salty" language. ”
Last fall we were barreling across I-90 and as I watched my iPhone, Apple Maps showed the highway in red, and an X on it. Sure enough, a couple of miles later a big highway ports-sign flashed by, saying something about a closure. Turns out a truck had jackknifed and rolled over in a canyon. Stopped at the next truck stop to assess options, but no one there had any information.
Point is, the CB would not have helped.
Back on topic, congratulations, I hope you have a winner. With enough money, a good plan and support, a vintage LD is a great hobby.
Hi All,
I bought it. And shoot me now- the seller drove it here from Santa Cruz and, as he was getting off the highway, a fan belt broke. He could drive it to my house, but said I should not attempt to because right now no power steering. It also turns out that, though there is (barely) enough room between the gateposts on my driveway, it was not enough for seller to feel comfortable pulling it all the way through. Argh.
On the plus side- the seller gave me $500 cash to pay for the belt repair, and wrote up a sales contract that states he will pay more if need be. While you all may think I'm crazy for trusting that piece of paper, I'll just say that 1) I'm an attorney; and 2) he's an attorney. We're both licensed in CA and I know where he lives.... :P
Anyway, it's an initial PITA, but I am still glad I got it.
Other downer- I noticed that the rear bumper has substantial rust on the right side. Like, really bad. So not sure what that's about.
On the plus side, I went up the ladder to the roof and it looks damn good. Surprisingly good. As in I am surprised that thing is 27 years old. And inside I still see no signs of problems. Well, except the pull down shades (original) get stuck. I hate roller shades for just that reason- they ALWAYS get stuck. But that is the least of my worries.
Hey, I'm officially one of you!!!
Here she is!
Congrats!!
Looks great and congratulations!
Congrats indeed. The adventure begins.
That is a pretty tight squeeze between the uprights. Cost of coach repair for one small misstep will far exceed the cost of moving one post 6" or so...
My congrats as well!
Have fun fixing her up to your liking 🚐
'meandthedogs' (name?), I think you will want to have all the belts and hoses replaced as well as a thorough engine and all systems 'check' by a mechanic familiar with the G30 chassis and whichever engine (5.7L or 7.5L) this model has.
You might also want to check the areas around/behind/underneath the rusted bumper for other signs of water damage.
" 'meandthedogs' (name?)"
----
Sorry, Lisa; I didn't notice your name in an earlier post! Moderator Chris reminded me that I don't sign my name to my posts; mea culpa!
Joan
Congratulations. At least you've gotten past the anxiety of waiting for the first thing to go wrong.
Many happy times ahead for you & the dogs.
(one of the first things we did with ours was stick on hooks by the door for the leashes :) )
Congratulations. At least you've gotten past the anxiety of waiting for the first thing to go wrong.
Thanks for that laugh. I needed it! I'm waiting for a mechanic to arrive. I upgraded my AAA membership last night to include the RV towing, but it says there is a 48 hour waiting period before it kicks in. So I spent this morning calling mobile mechanics. Hardly anyone answered, and one that did said he doesn't work on RVs. Hoping the guy that is coming over can fix it!!
And yeah, I've already called a gate company for help with the post. Until then I'm going to have to park on the street.
I did measure beforehand. More than once. And i knew there was hardly any clearance, but I had a few over confident men (including my dad and the seller) assure me that THEY could get it in no problem. mmmmhmmmm. As you can see, the seller lost confidence halfway through.
So yeah, another bunch of $$$ to get post moved. Yikes.
Lisa
but I had a few over confident men ... assure me that THEY could get it in no problem. mmmmhmmmm.
Yes, but what they don't say is that an problem that gets caused, "ain't their problem" ;)
A definition of a boat is a hole in the water into which you pour money. The difference between a boat and a LD is the water.
Welcome aboard
joel
OMG. The mechanic just came over. The alternator needs to be replaced. But much, much worse? It will NOT reverse. It reversed last night, as evidenced by fact that it is backed halfway up my driveway, but it won't reverse now. Mechanic said it's likely the transmission. I know I seem a fool, but he told me that even had it been checked out first, it is quite likely that it would not have been caught.
I called the seller and... he said he would pay for a new transmission. Yes, he actually said this and said he will send it to me in writing. I am not sure what to do. I believe he is good for it, but don't know if I can deal with this hassle right off the bat.
Suggestions? Also, anyone know of an RV shop in/around Oakland, CA they can recommend?
IMO, an 'RV shop' may not be what's needed; you might try one of these transmission shops that serve Oakland:
https://www.brucestire.com/auto-repair/transmission-repair/automatic-transmission-repair.aspx
Transmatic | Transmission Repair | Oakland, CA (http://www.transmatictransmission.com/)
Coliseum Transmissions (no website)
I called the seller and... he said he would pay for a new transmission. Yes, he actually said this and said he will send it to me in writing. I am not sure what to do. I believe he is good for it, but don't know if I can deal with this hassle right off the bat.
Once the original owner finds out how much a rebuilt transmission cost, he may back out.
A well built 4L80E will cost several thousand dollars, installed.
I would try to to return the LD and get my money back.
He did not disclose this defect and most likely knew about it before selling it.
Try to keep from having to meet him in small claims court.
There is a small degree of hope.
The 4L80E is electronically controlled, there may be an electrical problem that isn't too expensive to repair.
A word to the wise who are considering buying an elderly LD, have it inspected BEFORE laying your money down.
It's easier to walk away than it is to try getting your money back.
Sorry it worked out this way.
Larry
OMG. I am on phone with my car insurance company, AAA, and though the seller had it insured through them, they are telling me that the can't find this model in their system and they classify it as a commercial vehicle. And they won't insure it.
What is going on here??
This a 22' RV. How is classified as a commercial vehicle??
A word to the wise who are considering buying an elderly LD, have it inspected BEFORE laying your money down.
The mechanic who was just here said that it's unlikely that a mechanic would have found the problem with the transmission, if it's there.
Hi Lisa, and welcome to the cult...grin. One suggestion is join Escapes, and then become a Coachnet member. I had AAA at first and they were TERRIBLE with RVs..long long story, but I moved on to a much more competent RV emergency service. My RV insurer also does road emergencies, and there are others besides Coachnet. I have been very happy with them, and have had to use them on more than one occasion, out in the middle of no where. Good people generally.
Good luck with your belt replacement and gate widening! At 11:25 AM 2/16/2018, you wrote:
On: Fri Feb 16, 2018 joel wiley Wrote: Congratulations. At least you've gotten past the anxiety of waiting for the first thing to go wrong.
Thanks for that laugh. I needed it! I'm waiting for a mechanic to arrive. I upgraded my AAA membership last night to include the RV towing, but it says there is a 48 hour waiting period before it kicks in. So I spent this morning calling mobile mechanics. Hardly anyone answered, and one that did said he doesn't work on RVs. Hoping the guy that is coming over can fix it!!
And yeah, I've already called a gate company for help with the post. Until then I'm going to have to park on the street.
I did measure beforehand. More than once. And i knew there was hardly any clearance, but I had a few over confident men (including my dad and the seller) assure me that THEY could get it in no problem. mmmmhmmmm. As you can see, the seller lost confidence halfway through.
So yeah, another bunch of $$$ to get post moved. Yikes.
Lisa
1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
You can reply to this email and have it posted as a topic reply.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gini Free and Junah, canine xtrodinaire "CHERRYOTTE" our litte red home on wheels "Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional."
OMG. I am on phone with my car insurance company, AAA,and they classify it as a commercial vehicle. And they won't insure it.
This a 22' RV. How is classified as a commercial vehicle??
Find an insurance company that specializes in RV, such as Progressive .
Larry
The mechanic who was just here said that it's unlikely that a mechanic would have found the problem with the transmission, if it's there.
That could depend on the skill level the mechanic and how thorough an inspection it is given.
I still say that a qualified pre-inspection is the the best way to buy a used RV.
Larry
I'm sorry that this purchase has worked out this way, too; frustration, disappointment, and the 'uh oh' feeling are not the emotions which should accompany getting a new toy. Buying any RV, new or used, always involves some risk of 'wart discovery', but without doing a lot of homework on all parts of the process and having a comprehensive pre-buy inspection done of the chassis, engine, systems, coach, appliances, and every other element, by an experienced, knowledgeable person, the risk of being slammed with a lot of unpleasant surprises is multiplied many times over.
Unless one is very fortunate, finding a good used rig can take a lot of patient, time-consuming 'frog kissing' before the 'prince' shows up! I posted this link early on in this thread; I think it's worth posting again.
RV Inspection Checklist (http://changingears.com/rv-checklist-inspection.shtml)
I hope that the problems can be resolved; good luck to you.
I called the transmission shop that did my Corolla (tranny went out on that a month after purchase- and I did have my car thoroughly checked by a mechanic.). I have bad car luck. The good thing is that it turns out the transmission shop I like works on RVs and quoted me $3200 for transmission, which is $1800 less than most estimates I've seen on here, and $1800 less than another place I called. Not surprising as I called a bunch of places when my Corolla went out, and General Transmission was by far the cheapest. And had best warranty.
The seller has also offered to pay $3500 in addition to the $500 cash he provided last night. Go figure. That will more than cover the transmission and alternator. And I got AAA to waive the 48 hour waiting period on the RV tow. I guess sometimes my lawyering skills are useful.
Lisa
Lisa,
I’ve been quiet throughout your journey. There isn’t really much one can say that will convince or sway a determined well educated and independent person from choosing their own path.
From the photos that you’ve posted, your new LD is very nice. You will both be happy travelers without a doubt.
Its been said that things happen for a reason. Who can say why your LD has a faulty transmission? I don’t think I’m alone in saying that where it failed is better than where it could have failed. You’re home and you can tackle this issue on your own terms.
All the best with your future travels.
Kent
I can't really do much at the moment. The tow truck is here. IT's going to the transmission shop. The day is over and I'll have to wait until Monday for a diagnosis. I called the former mechanic who told me the seller contacted him earlier today expressing his surprise as to what has transpired. The mechanic said the seller will do right by me. I think that's probably true, though legally he does not have much liability. I bought this thing without getting a mechanic to look it over (his mechanic told me he thought I lived nearby and was going to suggest I bring it to him).
I messed up. I can only hope that after all the work, it will be serviceable enough for its intended purpose.
Thanks all.
Lisa
I can't really do much at the moment. The tow truck is here. It's going to the transmission shop. T
I messed up. I can only hope that after all the work, it will be serviceable enough for its intended purpose.
Lisa
Consider it a learning experience. Most folks buying old RVs find all sorts of undisclosed or unknown problems.
We always suggest that used buyers have a slush fund of several thousand dollars, nothing is cheap to fix or replace on RVs.
You are getting the rebuilt transmission mostly paid for. The old transmission has a lot of miles on it and is in the range where failure becomes common. Our LD's transmission died last year at 99,000 miles.
At this point, after the transmission is replaced, I would bite the bullet and have your mechanic go through the drivetrain from the rear axle to the radiator.
Starting with everything checked and freshly serviced will give you the best chance of avoiding on-the-road problems.
Unless you have service records indicating recent changes, I would change all the fluids- engine, coolant, rear axle, brake fluid and power steering fluid.
Lube all the grease fittings.
Suggested services.
Check the u-joints and driveshaft's center support bearing.
Check the front suspension and steering for condition of components, especially the idler arm (it wears out quickly) and shocks.
The Chevy suspension really benefits from Bilstein front shocks.
The cooling system is the most critical system for a long life.
The radiator needs to be in top shape, have it flushed when the coolant is changed.
Change the thermostat and radiator cap at the same time.
Check the condition the radiator and heater hoses, as well as the serpentine fan belt, water pump and fan clutch.
Make sure there is a big transmission cooler already installed.
Adding a transmission temperature gauge is a intelligent upgrade, protect your new transmission.
Pull the wheels and have the brakes and wheel bearings inspected and serviced as needed. Change the brake fluid at this point.
Check the age and condition of the tires and batteries (starting and coach).
A full tune up is advised, unless you have records of recent service.
Change the air cleaner and fuel filter.
Load the coach and have it weighed so the tires can be adjusted the manufacturer's recommend pressure.
When you done with this list, we come up with what you need to check on the coach.
I wouldn't put off having the roof and windows seals checked soon either.
Yes, its a huge list but it needs to be done if you are serious about traveling.
RVing is a great lifestyle but no one said it was going to be cheap.
Larry
Lisa,
Sorry to read about your problem, I hope the seller continues to be stand-up. A new (rebuilt) tranny is always a potential cost with RVs, so on the bright side, this is one repair you won’t have to worry about. By any chance does that shop do brakes?
Hi Lisa,
Welcome to your new adventure!
My bet is after you work out a few issues, you will come to love the unit and the lifestyle so don’t fret as it sounds as if the seller may be a stand up person who will help you on this path.
Against many others opinions, we absolutely love our older unit (1992 RB) and we would not trade anytime soon for a newer model. I have always enjoyed the “classics”.
I just recently purchased a “new” truck. 1996 Ford F-250 in like new condition with 53,000 orig. miles. Does it need a few things?....of course it does and this is to be expected.
Yes, you will have a few kinks to work out, but soon you will be able to prioritize and take care of what is most important to both you as well as the unit. In my opinion, this helps to make it your own.
Again, don’t worry because soon you will be enjoying you LD and have her right where you want her.
Paul
Thanks everyone. I will print out the list above and take it to the mechanic. Since the brakes somehow stopped working (according to the tow truck driver), I intend to get them done, too.
The brake thing is really weird- I drove this thing on Sunday and can attest to the brakes being very stiff. They were the absolute opposite of smooshy. And they definitely worked last night, as did the reverse gear. i don't get what happened overnight. The former mechanic suggested having the brake and transmission fluid checked first, as it was parked on my driveway, which is on a slope, face down. I did notice something leaked, as there was some kind of liquid (not oil) on the ground after the LD was towed. My dad suggested it could be brake fluid, but doubts that a leak would cause them to go from really stiff to unusable within a matter of 5 days.
I'll have as much as I can afford done while it's at the transmission shop. I really like the mechanic I took it to, and he's given me some good deals in the past, even taking me to the auto supply store to pick up specific parts and doing things for free or next to nothing. So I think I'm in good hands.
Thankfully I did not buy this for traveling, only for local use. But it would be nice if I could take it on a trip or two.
Meanwhile I can't get it insured by AAA. They have stated that there is something wrong with the title because, according to them, this VIN is not in their database, but when they search, it comes up a commercial vehicle. The title specifies "1991 Lazy D Body Type MH." So I have no idea what is going on. AAA also admits they insured it when owned by seller, but claim it was insured as "other" and now that they've found their error, they are correcting it by not insuring it with me. So now I have to find a different insurer for my car and the LD. AAA can go $%&^ itself.
Thanks again. I'll post when I get a diagnosis. I need a break from this!!
Lisa G.
Lisa,
This document includes the definition of a commercial vehicle in California:
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/wcm/connect/f93f514b-ffa6-46cd-9da7-939ef851e288/ch13_comml_vehs.pdf?MOD=AJPERES
Do you know what the previous owners(s) used it for?
OMG. I am on phone with my car insurance company, AAA, and though the seller had it insured through them, they are telling me that the can't find this model in their system and they classify it as a commercial vehicle. And they won't insure it.
What is going on here??
This a 22' RV. How is classified as a commercial vehicle??
Your intended use of it as a mobile office makes it commercial. Even if you didn't tell them that, it's kind of the legal thing to do. Here in Ohio, I had to sign an affidavit stating I wouldn't rent it out. Perhaps ask previous owner for his policy number for AAA's reference.
It does seem odd that AAA will sell you road service on it as an RV, but not insurance as an RV. Keep in mind that it's a 'limited production' thing that may not show up on their radar.
On the brakes, extra-firm can mean either stuck piston in a caliper or flex hoses that can act as one-way valves, allowing fluid to pressurize brakes but not release. Pad stays in contact, fluid boils, seals fail, leak, then brakes are non-operative the next day. I have seen this on old sports cars that don't get frequent use; a motorhome has a similar duty cycle.
Trans could also be fluid instead of mechanical, but that's merely a guess from over here. I would say if you have buy-in from the seller for replacement, and you can get a quality trans from a quality shop, go for it. Running low on fluid through mountains wouldn't have done it any good.
Alternator is an easy one. Amp up if you like.
This is a stressful period but it will calm down as things get settled.
Since you are not planning a travel, you can work your way through the list slowly.
Your LD's brakes are boosted using pressurized oil front the power steering pump., it's call a hydro-boost.
Car brakes are usually boosted with engine vacuum..
The hydro-boost produces a much firmer pedal than car brakes.
Do get it repaired.
Larry
Do you know what the previous owners(s) used it for?
Recreation!
If you get no where with AAA try Geico. Only thing bad about them is your policy renews every 6 month and they will jack up their rates each time. They like to nickel and dime you but still lower than AAA and others.
Another possibility is thru GoodSam Club
GoodSam Insurance (https://www.goodsam.com/insurance/)
I suspect that after a while with the LD in the side yard, you will begin to hear it calling quietly to you that 'it is not that far to a weekend along the coast or the mountains....' they tend to do that.
The dogs will love it- it's a magical machine, everytime you open the door, it's a new world of smells :)
As someone else said, welcome to the cult.
joel
(and the dogs)
I was actually looking at Good Sam Club. Any personal experiences with them?
.Your LD's brakes are boosted using pressurized oil front the power steering pump., it's call a hydro-boost.
This is very interesting. Since the power steering went out when the fan belt came off (thanks to bad alternator), is is possible that it also affected the brakes? It just seems really weird that the brakes went out right after the fanbelt/power steering.
Lisa,
Yes, your rig must have hydro boost brakes.
Chevrolet used hydro boost brakes in that time instead of vacuum boost that Ford used. Hydro boost uses the power steering (hydraulic)pump to assist with the brakes. They have a small accumulator to assist one time after the power steering belt breaks. The accumulator refills when the power steering pump operates at pressure in a few seconds.
I was actually looking at Good Sam Club. Any personal experiences with them?
I have the rig insured thru them and ERS. Insurance allegedly covers full replacement for first 5 years. Used the ERS twice. First time was in LA just across the TX border - they would have been a couple hours to respond. A local told me there was a Loves a mile up I-10 and I limped up there. Second time was on US 50 near Shingle Springs CA. They showed up in 45 minutes and had me back on the road shortly . First time R inner dually, second time R outer. YMMV
Pat the dogs
joel
I was actually looking at Good Sam Club. Any personal experiences with them?
Unless they have changed carriers the insurance is through National General Insurance. That's who we have insurance with. You could check prices with them directly or go through Good Sam. Of course, you also have to be a member of Good Sam.
Jim
,
Yes, your rig must have hydro boost brakes.
Chevrolet used hydro boost brakes in that time instead of vacuum boost that Ford used. Hydro boost uses the power steering (hydraulic)pump to assist with the brakes. They have a small accumulator to assist one time after the power steering belt breaks. The accumulator refills when the power steering pump operates at pressure in a few seconds.
Ah ha! I asked two mechanics and my dad (backyard mechanic) about this because when I told the seller about the brakes (since they worked when he dropped it off right after fan belt came off, but not the next day), he said he was pretty sure the brakes were affected by the lack of fan belt. The two mechanics said they didn't see how the fan belt could be related to the brakes, but my dad actually said he thought the seller might be right. My dad has owned and worked on his own Chevy vans since the 70's, so I'm guessing he has some idea of which he speaks. I hope so!
I guess I'll find out this week. Either way, I plan to have to the brakes thoroughly inspected and have whatever work done that is necessary.
Thanks!
Lisa
Ah ha! I asked two mechanics and my dad (backyard mechanic) about this because when I told the seller about the brakes (since they worked when he dropped it off right after fan belt came off, but not the next day), he said he was pretty sure the brakes were affected by the lack of fan belt. The two mechanics said they didn't see how the fan belt could be related to the brakes, but my dad actually said he thought the seller might be right
If the belt breaks, the power steering pump stops working. The power steering pump powers the hydro-boost.
In this situation, you have only one stop available, due to the the hydro-boost's accumulator, which stores a small amount of reserve hydraulic pressure.
If this happens, and you are aware of it, push hard on the brake pedal and don't let up until the rig is stopped and parked...you only have one stop available. Use it wisely.
This applies to most LDs, with the exception of the E350 models, which use a vacuum brake booster.
Once the reserved pressure is used, the brakes will not work until he power steering pump is reactivated.
The brakes on such a heavy vehicle need more power than what ordinary vacuum boosted brakes need or can produce.
The hydro-boost is several times more powerful than vacuum boosted brakes.
Your brake problem may be less severe than want was expected.
If your mechanic is baffled by a hydro-boost, consider finding another mechanic, the hydro-boost system has been used for many decades and are very common in mid-size trucks.
Larry
This applies to most LDs, with the exception of the E350 models, which use a vacuum brake booster.
it was not the mechanic that is going to work on it. How do I know what type I have? it's a 1991 22M. Chevy 350 engine (G30).
And where can I find a manual? I would like to have all this information readily available to me so I can at least have something to refer to when necessary.
Thanks!
it was not the mechanic that is going to work on it. How do I know what type I have? it's a 1991 22M. Chevy 350 engine (G30).
And where can I find a manual? I would like to have all this information readily available to me so I can at least have something to refer to when necessary.
Your G-30 has a hydro-boost, as do most LDs.
An LD Owner's Manual is not going to be of any use when it come to problems with the drive train or brakes, it deals mostly with the operation of the coach.
The Chevy owner's manual may mention the brakes but it isn't a service manual.
This may be what you want.
1991 Chevy G Van Factory Shop Service Manual - G10 G20 G30 Beauville... (https://www.factoryrepairmanuals.com/1991-chevy-g-van-factory-shop-service-manual-g10-g20-g30-beauville-sportvan/)
Even if one does none of their own work, a shop manual is a good thing to have and will be of use to any mechanic working on it.
Larry
I'm going to be honest. The main reason I got this RV is because it has a real toilet. I can't deal with those weird porta potty style ones.
Plus this came with a manual, which is important. People should know how to use their fine china toilet.
@Larry W - thank you! The repair manual is what I meant.
I have all the original owner's manuals- the LD one (looks like they typed it up themselves), the dometic, the AC, generator, even the original brochure. Also all the stuff for the new stereo, back camera, etc. But I want that repair manual. I'll pick it up.
Thanks.
"E-350" is a Ford chassis designation; yours is a Chevy G-30.
This is all the information on your year/model from the "Changes by Year" link on the home page of the message board:
"22' model, Chevrolet G30 chassis, GVWR: 10,500 lb., 350 c.i.d./5.7 liter V8 engine or 454 c.i.d./7.5 liter V8 engine, electronic fuel injection, * 4L80E 4-speed auto transmission"
You could do a search on the chassis and year to find out more specifics, but this link to the relevant pages on Rock Auto will give you some idea of the parts you might need; click on your engine size and start scrolling!
1991 CHEVROLET G30 Parts | RockAuto (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1991,g30)
Lisa said, “Plus this came with a manual, which is important. People should know how to use their fine china toilet.”
Indeed. When contemplating the the universe and all things cosmic, “Fine China” is a must. 😺
Kent
Well, I got the diagnosis today:
1) alternator and serpentine belt need replacement (already knew that) Parts & labor ~ $420
2) Transmission is shot. Mechanic said it's quite possible seller would not have known it was going out. Particularly since it was still going in reverse, etc. the night before (which I witnessed). Parts & labor - $3200.
3) Radiator rusted and looks like it needs replacement. Mechanic could not locate part with his regular place and doesn't know cost, but estimates parts & labor at ~$450.
4) Brake master cylinder very rusty. He does not know if it is affecting brakes, but will know more once alternator and belt replaced.
Mechanic confirms that the brakes are probably "out" due to busted alternator, which affects the power steering and, in turn, the brake assist. He expects the brakes to come back once the alternator replaced.
Seller has reiterated his offer of $3500 in addition to the $500 he already gave me, to cover transmission, etc. In other words, he's offering $4k total to compensate for some of this work. That would effectively mean I got the RV for $8500 and lots of work to be done, or I paid $12,500 for an RV with a new transmission and alternator.
I was already planning on spending money on a brake job, and the radiator doesn't add THAT much (and would mostly be covered by the $4k.)
My question to you all- are the prices being quoted by mechanic in line with what you all have experienced? Taking into consideration where i live, (San Francisco Bay Area), where everything costs at least 1/3 more than most of the rest of the country? And what should I realistically expect to pay for an entire overhaul of the brake system, including master cylinder?
Thank you all again for your advice and help.
(Oh, and I forwarded to the mechanic that checklist of things to inspect/repair that was provided above!)
Lisa
Sounds fair, question on the rebuilt transmission does he give you a guarantee? Cost of brake job depends on what parts are going to get replaced.
I believe the warranty is 2 years or 25k miles. That was what I got on my Corolla.
Right now i'm pissed because the mechanic did not call me this afternoon as promised. Now I'm worried that something has happened. Like the engine blew up or they knocked the top off the RV.
: >:( >:( >:(
4) Brake master cylinder very rusty. He does not know if it is affecting brakes, but will know more once alternator and belt replaced.
Mechanic confirms that the brakes are probably "out" due to busted alternator, which affects the power steering and, in turn, the brake assist. He expects the brakes to come back once the alternator replaced.
Lisa
Once the alternator serpentine belt is replaced, the power steering pump will be powered and the hydro boost brakes should work again.
External rust on the master cylinder is not an indication of its condition.
It's cast iron and, in my memory, all G-30s master cylinders have a coating of rust, once they are a few years old.
Here is a photo what our 1983 LD's MC looked like the week it was sold. It's brakes were in good shape.
10 | lw5315us | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/6052942457/in/album-72157627331647479/)
A full brake job, where the pads, calipers and rotors are replaced, can run up upward of $2000.
Larry
Changing out the brake fluid would not be out of line. Inexpensive compared to the scope of the rest of the repairs, and likely never done in light of other deferred maintenance issues.
A couple of points:
- We had no problem insuring our '93 (which is identical to your rig) under our existing policy with our other cars, as well as having AAA cover it (towing, etc) under our existing club membership. We have friends who have a '89, and they went through a similar process of needing to wait the 48 hours for AAA road side service to kick in.
- I originally posted that I thought the price was around $5k too high. Since the owner has promised to cover the major repair costs, you are actually exactly where you would be if you had bought it for $7.5k.
That is, to get your rig up and running properly, it will probably take around $10k. So, you're total investment will ultimately end up @ approximately $17.5k. In the grand scheme of things, not really such a bad deal to have a nice, fully functional small 22' RV.
So, doing the math, the owner is covering the $5k you would have had to put into anyway. IOW, you're now @ $12.5k (ie your purchase price) with a bunch of new parts, with maybe another $5k to go. The next $5k will come in the form of:
- new heater core (if radiator is rusted, so is heater core)
- new A/C - old pump, probably leaking, maybe empty
- new brakes, including rotors, calipers, maybe some lines
- new tires
- maybe some tune up issues
- perhaps new catalytic
Those are the vehicle repairs. Your coach AC may or may not be working. Ours is OK, but we never ever use it. The reefer should work, along with the hot water heater. If they have hiccups, check the electronic controller boards first. Water pump is an easy fix - it's located under closet. Just a few screw to access. The rollers work great if you replace the anchor points; it's a $1 dollar part from the Mother Ship. Order a dozen to have them handy when the rollers gets stuck up/down. (Whatever you do, don't replace the rollers - one of the key advantages you have right now is your rig is "stock". This actually adds value for older vehicles.)
As long as you know the total end cost is around $15-17k, then you should be (mentally) OK. It's the ones who think they are getting a deal with no further work/cost requirements who end up having issues.
Just to repeat, think about it this way: someone buying a $20-30k RV is most likely **still** going to have to put a bunch of money into it. This is just the nature of the biz. Starting (relatively) low and spending money to bring it up to standard isn't that big of deal if it's not a major financial hit. If it is super dear, then owning an RV (or boat, etc) may not be the best idea in the first place.
Had mine done last summer at Les Schawb in Auburn..full service, and it was $1300..new everything
At 12:27 AM 2/21/2018, you wrote:
On: Tue Feb 20, 2018 meandthedogs Wrote:
4) Brake master cylinder very rusty. He does not know if it is
affecting brakes, but will know
more once alternator and belt replaced.
Mechanic confirms that the brakes are probably "out" due to
busted alternator, which affects the
power steering and, in turn, the brake assist. He expects the
brakes to come back once the
alternator replaced.
Lisa
Once the alternator serpentine belt is replaced, the power steering pump will be powered and the
hydro boost brakes should work again.
External rust on the master cylinder is not an indication of its condition.
It's cast iron and, in my memory, all G-30s master cylinders have a coating of rust, once they are a
few years old.
Here is a photo what our 1983 LD's MC looked like the week it was sold. It's brakes were in good
shape. >10 | lw5315us | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/6052942457/in/album-72157627331647479/)
A full brake job, where the pads, calipers and rotors are replaced, can run up upward of $2000.
Larry
Larry
2003 23.5" Front Lounge. 2001 Jeep Cherokee toad Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
You can reply to this email and have it posted as a topic reply.
LDO Links:
index.php?action=notifyboard;board=3.0 Regards, The Lazy Daze Owners Team
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gini Free and Junah, canine xtrodinaire "CHERRYOTTE" our litte red home on wheels "Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional."
HELP! What kind of radiator do I need? Mechanic having hard time finding it. There is one for a 1991 G30 chevy, but mechanic and radiator people aren't sure if it needs regular radiator 1991 chevy G30 van with 5.7 L motor and 4 sp automatice transmission, or something special.
The radiator should be one listed on this page. If the mechanic isn't sure, he/she might want to call Rock Auto and get their advice.
1991 CHEVROLET G30 5.7L V8 Radiator | RockAuto (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1991,g30,5.7l+v8,1048261,cooling+system,radiator,2172)
Are there any radiator shops in your area that could help you out by either refurbishing yours or sell you a new one or help you locate one.
JODY
Well thank you all again.
For the record- the seller has already given me the money! He deposited the money into my account- cash! I'm amazed.
And I had a boatload of lawyer jokes just ready to go, too.
That will certainly help get you on the road more quickly. Getting lots done at once will let you focus on getting comfortable with driving it, instead of worrying about system failures.
On the radiator, you'll probably want the most capable one that will fit. Tow package, transmission cooler, engine oil cooler, air, maybe even the 'ambulance' version if there's one out there. (Even if you don't have an oil cooler or trans cooler, they can be added later.) Still have to make sure the hoses will go to the right place, and the holes line up, and it fits in front of the fan. If you have high temperatures, mountain passes, and possible desert use in your future, you'll want all the cooling you can get.
Changing out the brake fluid would not be out of line. Inexpensive compared to the scope of the rest of the repairs, and likely never done in light of other deferred maintenance issues.
That is normally done with a full brake replacement,
It's a best practice to fully flush the brake fluid every three or four years.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the air and will lead to rust in the brake system, if not changed periodically.
While the E450 owner's manual doesn't require it, the Ford F53 Class A's do call for a three year fluid change.
Larry
(Even if you don't have an oil cooler or trans cooler, they can be added later
Mechanic is going through the checklist provided earlier in this thread. He said there is a transmission cooler and it appears to be functional. He is going to add thermostat, which he says appears to be missing.
Still not sure on those radiators. He's looking at the ones listed at the link above. He even said that since his primary biz is transmissions, he has no issue with me ordering it myself to save money (the shop marks them up, obviously). But I don't know which one to order!
Lisa
I always try to go direct to a mechanic/shop that does only radiator work/replacement whenever possible.
I hate paying folks to learn on the job, I would have allot more confidence doing it that way, even if it costs a little more.
Mechanic is going through the checklist provided earlier in this thread. He said there is a transmission cooler and it appears to be functional. He is going to add thermostat, which he says appears to be missing.
Still not sure on those radiators. He's looking at the ones listed at the link above. He even said that since his primary biz is transmissions, he has no issue with me ordering it myself to save money (the shop marks them up, obviously). But I don't know which one to order!
I would go to a dedicated radiator specialist. You are most likely going to need a complete cooling system overhaul. This includes not only repairing/replacing the main radiator, but the heater core and all hoses as well. The auxiliary transmission, oil and steering coolers may be fine - I had to replace my steering coolant radiator, and it was only an $80 dollar part.
You should purchase the shop repair manual linked above, as well as familiarize yourself with an x-reference to the AC Delco parts listing service here: Auto Parts: Car Parts, Truck Parts, Aftermarket Parts | ACDelco (http://www.acdelco.com/). (It works best with your VIN.) Once you have those two sources, you can cross reference against standard parts companies like Rock Auto, etc.
Once the cooling and brake systems are replaced/repaired/re-furbished, you're pretty good to go from an operating base line level. (Assuming a hard mechanical fix like the transmission is resolved.) That is, your RV will be relatively safe to operate without (too) much concern.
If you begin to get stressed out about the cost, just note two things: (a) new 20' Class B RVs are running about $125k; used between $75-100k. (b) It's practically impossible to find a small 22-24' LD. There's a **huge** difference in both driving and access between sub-25' and the MB @ 26.5'.
For one, state parks alter their rates for 25'+, including a surcharge on annual passes. Many local parks & cities have length limits for parking, usually right around 20-22'. Lastly, many nat'l parks and other camping areas also have campground length limits around 20-22' for van/tent only spots. We have been able to - many, many times - squeeze into small, regular tent camp spots (with host approval).
Keep this in mind: while RVs many seem a bit complex, they are in the end *finite*. There are only so many things that can go wrong. Nail down the basics like brakes & cooling, and you're 50% of the way there. All the other, niggling things may be a hassle - or fun projects depending on your orientation - but they aren't deal killers. Fix the foundation, and you can use the RV.
"For one, state parks alter their rates for 25'+, including a surcharge on annual passes."
----
I don't know how many state parks' systems this applies to; as far as I know, it's not a common practice. One might want to check the policies of the state park systems one is interested in; this site offers an interesting overview of each state's system:
A Complete Guide to RV Camping in State Parks of the United States (https://wandrlymagazine.com/article/rv-camping-state-parks/#ca-sp)
I like my 'short' rig for a lot of reasons, but I've never been charged less for any site in any facility simply because of its size. YMMV, of course.
Lisa, with all the things going on, take a deep breath, and remember that you are going to have this LD forever and you won't have to do these things for another 100K miles. By you third or fourth trip it will all be behind you.
Put Morro Bay 2019 on your calendar :)
Day use. Drive into any CA state beach/park, and you'll notice two green lines painted on the entrance road outside the entry booth. They are measured at 25', so if you fall within, you're treated like a regular passenger car. Outside, RV entry rates. If you want an annual pass, a surcharge is applied to vehicles over 25'. Same too if you drive up with a passenger pass and you're outside the green lines: they assess a day use surcharge.
As far as campgrounds, there can be differences charged between tent only, RV and RV with hook-ups. If your RV is short enough to be treated as a regular vehicle, then you can possibly use the tent only site.
Because of the motor-homeless problem throughout the state (CA), cities, counties, districts & other municipalities are passing all kinds of parking limits, including obvious measures like time restrictions. Add to that list length limitations as well. Huntington Beach has them posted everywhere.
There's a reason class B RVs are setting sales records, and why the commensurate prices have risen accordingly. Just because you haven't personally experienced a difference in access/camping prices will perhaps resonate with the OP: absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.
The radiator should be one listed on this page. If the mechanic isn't sure, he/she might want to call Rock Auto and get their advice.
1991 CHEVROLET G30 5.7L V8 Radiator | RockAuto (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1991,g30,5.7l+v8,1048261,cooling+system,radiator,2172)
Hi again,
So the mechanic checked that page, and called his regular supplier and called radiators.com. It seems all the ones listed at Rock Auto do NOT have the engine cooler (the one currently installed does have an engine cooler). Radiators.com DOES have one with an engine cooler, but it is about 3x the price (almost $300). The Radiators.com model is an old style all metal, as opposed to aluminum and plastic. My mechanic says the all metal ones, while heavier, tend to hold up better and are easier to service.
Where are people buying their radiators with engine coolers??
Lisa G
Plastic radiator tanks have been OEM on most cars for a couple of decades.
Metal tanks once were better, not any more. It's the quality of the build that determine which is best.
There is no difference in how either type is serviced.
High quality radiators can easily exceed $400. An OEM replacement for my E450 was $450.
I wouldn't put a cheap radiator in, the stock radiator isn't oversize and engine needs as much cooling as it can get.
You want a radiator with a thicker than stock core.
Cheaper radiator have thin cores, in the 1-1/4" to 1-13/4" range
Radiators.com 2-5/8" core
www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part=1991+CHEVROLET+G30++%2D+5%2E7+liter+V8+RADIATOR+COPPER+BRASS+4+ROW%2C+28+X+17%2C+WITH+ENGINE+COOLER&part_id=40329&aaia_id=1048261
Here's another radiator I found that should be suitable and lot cheaper
Napa 2-3/16" core
Radiator NR 2331 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRS2331)
Does your LD have an external transmission cooler?
Larry
Hi Larry, was there a reply?
Hi Lisa. The radiator IS an engine cooler. Maybe you are referring to the transmission cooler that is often built in to the bottom tank of the radiator. That usually small cooler for transmission oil can also be a separate item. That gives the engine a little more cooling, since it doesn't have to cover the transmission heat also. The separate transmission oil cooler can also be bigger, and can cool the transmission on its own. On my old Dodge MH I ran the oil through a separate cooler and then into the water cooler so the oil wouldn't get too cold, and in worst cases the oil could help cool the water down. RonB
Hi Lisa. The radiator IS an engine cooler. Maybe you are referring to the transmission cooler that is often built in to the bottom tank of the radiator. That usually small cooler for transmission oil can also be a separate item. That gives the engine a little more cooling, since it doesn't have to cover the transmission heat also. The separate transmission oil cooler can also be bigger, and can cool the transmission on its own. On my old Dodge MH I ran the oil through a separate cooler and then into the water cooler so the oil wouldn't get too cold, and in worst cases the oil could help cool the water down. RonB
Hi,
No, mine has a transmission cooler and the radiator also has an engine cooler. So I'm told, anyway. If you look at the link provided 1991 CHEVROLET G30 5.7L V8 Radiator | RockAuto (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1991,g30,5.7l+v8,1048261,cooling+system,radiator,2172) you'll see that those listed under "standard replacement" specify "w/o engine cooler."
I'm going to call my dad. I speak English, Spanish and legalese- all this mechanical stuff is as foreign to me as insurance terminology.
Lisa
I just called the place myself. $450!!!
It's an APDI all metal radiator, 3 row, 2" thickness, with engine oil cooler and transmission oil cooler.
I have been doing research on radiators, and this one sounds heavy duty. Also $$!
Still, I think I'd like to find someone that specializes in this work around here and can work on an RV. Ugh. More looking.
Hi Lisa. I'll wait for Larry to weigh in on this. My preference would be the aluminum radiator, with a separate engine oil cooler, separate transmission oil cooler, and some chassis's even have a power steering oil cooler. RonB
Hi Larry, was there a reply?
It disappeared somehow, it's back now.
Larry
Hi Lisa. The radiator IS an engine cooler. Maybe you are referring to the transmission cooler that is often built in to the bottom tank of the radiator oil could help cool the water down.
Ron
Look at photos of the radiator from Napa.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRS2331
Zoom in and you will see cooler ports on both sides of the radiator, each tank has a separate cooler inlet and outlet.
It's unusual, I don't remember seeing this before in a G-30.
Most of my G-30 experience was with early and mid 80s LDs.
Larry
Hi all!
Got it back from mechanic today. Drove it home myself. It was the longest, slowest, scariest 8 mile drive I've ever done. It def needs an alignment and it does pull a bit to the left if I brake too hard. I didn't realize JUST how big it was until I pulled up next to a city bus and saw I was about at the same height. And I'm pretty sure I was taking up 1.5 lanes because few people wanted to drive next to me.
Next priority is figuring out how to turn on the rear camera, as I already had an unfortunate meet and greet with the resident phone pole. It didn't sound good, but I didn't see anything when I got out. Though it's dark outside...
I also want to find a shop to do alignment, check brakes and do cooling system. There are so many auto repair places here but, being a city, most don't have the space to work on RV. I don't have time to call them all, so If anyone here lives/knows of a good shop in/near Oakland, CA, please let me know. I'm not too keen on the place in Pleasant Hill listed in the repair forum, as i'm pretty sure it's the place i took my Corolla when transmission light came on shortly after I left town on a road trip. Their estimate was REALLY high and the warranty was not that great.
Looking forward to a break from work some time in the next decade so I can start learning how to use stuff in this behemoth!
Oh yeah, first drive- my other dog is hiding under the table...
Is there any way to lower the steering wheel? Or do I have to find some old phone books or a booster seat so I can see out the window without my view being obstructed by the steering wheel?
Clearly this vehicle was NOT made with smaller people in mind.
Hi me and the dogs.
I've used (and like) Bruce's Tire in San Jose to work on the tires, brakes and engine of my 27 2002 MB. I suggest calling the Oakland shop (510) 567-8473 to find out if they will work on your rig. If not, they may have a suggestion of an alternative repair shop.
David
Got it back from mechanic today. Drove it home myself. It was the longest, slowest, scariest 8 mile drive I've ever done. It def needs an alignment and it does pull a bit to the left if I brake too hard. I didn't realize JUST how big it was until I pulled up next to a city bus and saw I was about at the same height. And I'm pretty sure I was taking up 1.5 lanes because few people wanted to drive next to me.
Next priority is figuring out how to turn on the rear camera, as I already had an unfortunate meet and greet with the resident phone pole. It didn't sound good, but I didn't see anything when I got out. Though it's dark outside...
I also want to find a shop to do alignment, check brakes and do cooling system. There are so many auto repair places here but, being a city, most don't have the space to work on RV. I don't have time to call them all, so If anyone here lives/knows of a good shop in/near Oakland, CA, please let me know. I'm not too keen on the place in Pleasant Hill listed in the repair forum, as i'm pretty sure it's the place i took my Corolla when transmission light came on shortly after I left town on a road trip. Their estimate was REALLY high and the warranty was not that great.
Looking forward to a break from work some time in the next decade so I can start learning how to use stuff in this behemoth! This message has 1 images/files associated with it.
To see them please follow this link: http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=31376.msg184765#msg184765 1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
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(408) 206-8800
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Hi me and the dogs.
I've used (and like) Bruce's Tire in San Jose to work on the tires, brakes and engine of my 27 2002 MB. I suggest calling the Oakland shop (510) 567-8473 to find out if they will work on your rig. If not, they may have a suggestion of an alternative repair shop.
David
Thanks! I recall seeing a place noted on the repair page that had a location in SJ and Oakland, but someone had posted they'd closed the Oakland location. I'll look into it.
Lisa G.
The one dog has supreme confidence in mom.
On ours, the backup camera comes on automagically when in reverse, and the left (I think) button wakes it up going forward. If you backed into the pole, open the spare tire hatch and see if the interior is cracked. I did that on ours the first time I backed it into the driveway and the garage wall (the backup camera was working - no excuse :-[ ). Since then it has lived with a paint stirrer duct taped on the inside.
From the pic, I surmise the one dog will not be lap-sitting while you are driving. :)
"Oh yeah, first drive- my other dog is hiding under the table..."
Is this a Disney commercial for "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride"?
(I didn't make that up; the son of a friend said it about his mother!)
Congrats, Lisa! We're all rooting for you!!! You've got a lot of guts. I've driven our Lazy Daze only once, and that was for only about half an hour on a straightaway. It really scares me - such a wuss!
Virtual hugs,
Judie < -- needs to toughen up
Don't worry, the terror will subside the more you drive it. Enjoy!
You will get used to driving your Lazy Daze and even enjoy it!
Google Image Result for https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5616/15609252001_c8c4... (https://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.static.flickr.com%2F5616%2F15609252001_c8c4812fa3_b.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fhiveminer.com%2FTags%2Flazydaze%2Cmotorhome&docid=rBcVE22C0OQFYM&tbnid=dAnfwAu1_zpeRM%3A&vet=1&w=1024&h=683&itg=1&source=sh%2Fx%2Fim)
ARGH!!!
I went out to look at my LD and found that someone had opened a back window. It was pouring rain all night and the back sofa is soaked, as is the wood underneath.
I have removed all the cushions and put inside my house with a fan on them, and dried the underlying wood base (plywood) as much as possible. What an f'n drag. I have locked the window, but found that the lock on the bathroom window is broken. SO more to worry about until I can get this thing into my driveway. :(
Ouch. If you can run an extension cord out to it, maybe a small heater to help dry the wood?
Maybe the dog in the photo can do a sleep over in the LD for a while?
When does the gate move get done?
joel
Maybe you can add a small yappy dog to the mix in the sleepover and have three many dogs ;)
"I have locked the window, but found that the lock on the bathroom window is broken."
A temporary fix is to use a wooden dowel cut to fit the window track, preventing the window from being opened until you can replace the normal latches, which are available from the factory. :(
Someone opened the back window, as in someone was snooping around? If so, they may be back later to see what they can steal. Putting a large dog inside the rig is probably a good idea!
WAHHHHH!!! Tomorrow is street cleaning and I overreached- I decided to try and back the LD into my long driveway. I was doing pretty good with the 1.5" clearance on each side, but about 1/3 thru, I heard crunching and saw something hanging off side. it turned out to be the cover to some type of outlet, a hose or something. it's just the cover, but still upsetting. What's worse, I ended up having to drive it in face first, and I honestly don't know how anyone will be able to back this thing out without hitting the posts.
I don't know if the rear camera on this is the like the worse made or what, but the video quality and accuracy is terrible !I can't even see anything in detail enough to know how close I am. This is a definitely going to be a challenge to figure out.
And this thing also takes up a big chunk of my back yard space, so now it looks like I won't be getting a shed/greenhouse after all.
Lisa...Ouch,
The back up cameras tend to pick up moisture and dirt...especially in the morning.
Before I travel I climb up on the rear bumper and hold onto the ladder. With micro fiber or better yet a very soft Terri cloth towel, I clean and dry the camera lens.
Sorry about your hiccup. The Mothership can hook you up with everything you need at a very reasonable cost.
Time to take a grinder to your gate posts.
Kent
Hi Lisa,
I still legally have "my" '22 1990 Lazy Daze, Multi-plan, "BLUE", even though my daughter has it in California, and uses it with her little family. I've had it since 2000, and it has the 454 with 106,000 miles. I just had a new radiator installed. I know Larry Wade thinks I'm a nut (but I am), we are now on our 3rd generation of family to have fun in this rig. Once you get all the bugs worked out, you will have fun, too!
The only REAL problem I've had is a back leak above the cab on the passenger side. I really should have the cabover re-built, but I've drawn the line on that repair, unless I win the lottery. I actually like the fit and finish on the 1990 better than my 2005 rear bath.
Good luck with yours, you will have fun! If you need any interior fix ideas, or the manual(s), let me know!
Lisa, 2005 Ghost Rider (rear bath)
Jennifer, 1990 Blue (multi-plan)
See you all at Morro Bay!!!
Well I guess I should hang it up now.
Turns out I smashed in the cover over the propane/gas compartment and the generator. I had to use a screwdriver to pry it open and it's all off kilter. Haven't tried the cover to the generator. Definitely caused some damage to exterior. Ugh.
The cover that came off is for the electric plug.
By the way- am I ONLY able to hook this up to a giant prong outlet? I don't have one in my house (gas dryer). Any way to use regular 3 prong to run the lights, etc? I know that won't run fridge, but I plugged a fan into an outlet in the LD and it didn't work, so I'm guessing it doesn't run off the solar and needs the big prong or a generator?
The built in fans and the lights all turn on, and the seller told me those are powered by the solar panels.
I know nothing about this thing. And I already messed it up. :(
Called and emailed a bunch of gate shops today, but of course nobody answered or called back. I need the posts moved or removed before I try getting this thing back on the street. My only consolation is that it's still probably better off than if I'd left it parked on the street. And with street cleaning tomorrow I would have had to park it out of my sight of my house, which could easily have turned into a stolen vehicle, or at least a vandalized one. So even with the damage it's still in my possession and in (mostly) one piece and usable.
You & d. Dogs, about that 30 amp outlet and cord. You can get a pigtail adapter in many places. Here is one on Amazon for quick reference. It's best plugged into a 20 amp circuit.
Then you can run the heater to dry the wood under the window.
Sorry about the scratched doors
joel
Meandthedogs
"The cover that came off is for the electric plug."
Since I'm not well versed on all the features of the various vintages of Lazy Daze units, I'm curious about one point!
You say that 'the cover' for the electrical plug came off... can you tell us if your power cord is attached somewhere within the coach when you pull it out (early models were like this) or is it free on both ends and intended to be coiled and stored in a compartment? ::)
Lisa,
I’ve attatched two pictures.
One pic shows what the 30 amp power cord for my ‘15 LD looks like. The pronged end plugs into a 30 amp campground outlet. The other end connects to the LD and has a twist on ring that keeps it attached to the LD power connection.
The other pic shows a 30 amp (your LD power cord prongs) to 15amp (household current) adapter.
Using this power cord to adapter connection you will be able to run the LD outlets, refrigerator and microwave (I believe). The roof AC draws too much power and can overheat the outside household current connection and trip the breaker in your home.
I use this combination while at home with no issues.
Best of luck with your repairs and the gate post removal. You’ll be fine.
Kent
Meandthedogs
"The cover that came off is for the electric plug."
Since I'm not well versed on all the features of the various vintages of Lazy Daze units, I'm curious about one point!
You say that 'the cover' for the electrical plug came off... can you tell us if your power cord is attached somewhere within the coach when you pull it out (early models were like this) or is it free on both ends and intended to be coiled and stored in a compartment? ::)
It seems to be attached somewhere in the coach. There (was) a door similar to that over the gas tank outlet on a car. The plug pulls out.
As for an adaptor- I contacted the seller and he told me there was one in the coach. I found it and can now use the outlets. Yay! The only problem is that it's freezing out and keeping window to my kitchen open for the extension cord is not smart for my heating bills right now. Oh well.
Is the heater in coach electric? I'll have to try it. The wood on the sofabed platform is about dry. It's plywood and I've been running fan on it for a few hours. The cushions are still inside my house drying but they're about done.
The seller messaged me that I needed to be sure to close the roof vent when it rains to protect the hardwood floors he put in. Uh, yeah, wish he'd mentioned that earlier. That appears to be where much of the water came from, though the back cushion of sofa was wet from the opened window.
Unless converted by the previous owner(s), your rig should have a hard-wired electrical cord.
The heating is a propane furnace which uses a 12V fan to move the air.
LIsa,
Have you thought about taking a road trip to Morro Bay next week? Even if you drive down in the car for a day, it would be a good opportunity to meet and visit with many of the Lazy Daze owners that have been helping you here. Maybe you could write it off as "continuing education"? ;-)
"The built in fans and the lights all turn on, and the seller told me those are powered by the solar panels."
My intent is not to be critical or mean spirited but there is something about 'solar' that you need to understand. The solar panel/s have one function ONLY, and that is to charge your coach batteries. Solar will not power lights, fans, etc.! Their job is to put energy into the batteries so that the batteries can provide 12v Direct Current (DC) to those devices that need it. On occasions you will also need 120v Alternating Current (AC) to power the microwave, air conditioner, etc. and also, in a round about way, charge your batteries as well. AC power is provided by your generator or the RV Park's electrical hookup.
This is one of the most common fallacies found in the minds of new RVrs. ::)
"I am wondering how long that battery can last on solar alone."
Solar connotes sunshine! Without sunshine, as in this period of rain in the Bay Area, there will be little to no charging taking place by way of the solar panels. Same goes for snow.
"The built in fans and the lights all turn on, and the seller told me those are powered by the solar panels."
The solar panel/s have one function ONLY, and that is to charge your coach batteries. Solar will not power lights, fans, etc.! Their job is to put energy into the batteries so that the batteries can provide 12v Direct Current (DC) to those devices that need it.
Hi, yes, I do understand that. It's just easier to say they run on solar power. The seller said that the lighter appliances are powered off the house battery which is charged, in part, by the solar panels. He said the lights, built-in fans and the cigarette lighter charging port, to which I can connect an adaptor to charge cell phones and laptop, all draw from that house battery. I am wondering how long that battery can last on solar alone.
When I look at the monitor panel (what's it called?), all the levels look good but the battery is only "fair."
The house battery is also charged when driving, yes?
Those with solar panels- how long does your battery last when stationary and using lights, fans, charging?
The heating is a propane furnace which uses a 12V fan to move the air.
Ah, that makes sense. I assumed the heat was powered by propane. Didn't think about how it was forced out.
I'm kind of scared of using propane. I also don't know how to use it or check on the level. Plus I smashed the cover to that compartment, so it's hard to get to. :(
I did just join the Facebook LD group, and there is a woman there that works at a body shop in San Jose that works on LDs. Maybe I'll drive up there to get price on the compartment doors.
"He said the lights, built-in fans and the cigarette lighter..."
And the fridge, the furnace, the water heater, water pump, probably TV, radio, etc. all utilize that 12v for one reason or another.
If your monitor panel (which is notoriously inaccurate) is telling you that the batteries are only 'fair' I suggest that you find a way to charge them, otherwise you can add the expense of new ones to your growing list. ::)
How do I charge when not driving? Isn't that what the solar panels are supposed to do?
"How do I charge when not driving?"
That is a sensible question and your curiosity shows that you are learning.
Go to that door you ripped off and pull the power cord out. Plug it into an AC receptacle, utilizing the proper adapter if needed. You should now have power applied to the coach and through the 'converter' [new word, you'll learn about it later] your batteries will start to charge.
If you have a voltmeter (which I suspect you do not) you can read the voltage level. If your solar controller has a 'Battery Voltage' setting you may be able to read it there.
Fully charged the batteries should read between 13-14 volts. Anything less than 12 volts is a NO-NO and must be recharged ASAP. From 10.5v to 11.3v consider them to be depleted beyond recovery and expect to purchase new ones. The chances of recharging them at that point is slim to none.
Ah, that makes sense. I assumed the heat was powered by propane. Didn't think about how it was forced out.
I'm kind of scared of using propane. I also don't know how to use it or check on the level. Plus I smashed the cover to that compartment, so it's hard to get to. :(
I did just join the Facebook LD group, and there is a woman there that works at a body shop in San Jose that works on LDs. Maybe I'll drive up there to get price on the compartment doors.
Lisa, maybe a benevolent Lazy Daze soul who lives not too far from you would volunteer to spend a day with you in your Lazy Daze, showing you how everything works. May I suggest you put together a list of everything you are unfamiliar with and attack that list one by one, in a seriously organized fashion. You'll get there. It's just going to take a little time.
Chris
Lisa, maybe a benevolent Lazy Daze soul who lives not too far from you would volunteer to spend a day with you in your Lazy Daze, showing you how everything works. May I suggest you put together a list of everything you are unfamiliar with and attack that list one by one, in a seriously organized fashion. You'll get there. It's just going to take a little time.
Chris
Good idea! Right now I really just want/need some free time to explore it myself. Now that it's here and parked on my own property, I am excited to started looking through it in detail. And since I can't really drive it til I have my gate replaced, I don't have to worry so much about getting it to its next repair/maintenance appointment.
Lisa, maybe a benevolent Lazy Daze soul who lives not too far from you would volunteer to spend a day with you in your Lazy Daze, showing you how everything works. May I suggest you put together a list of everything you are unfamiliar with and attack that list one by one, in a seriously organized fashion. You'll get there. It's just going to take a little time.
In the meantime, did you get an owner's manual with it?
In the meantime, did you get an owner's manual with it?
I did. Or at least, I got a manual. It looks it was typed on a typewriter. I just have not had time to look at anything due to working 12+ hour days. Hopefully soon...
I did. Or at least, I got a manual. It looks it was typed on a typewriter. I just have not had time to look at anything due to working 12+ hour days. Hopefully soon...
That's it! It should answer many of your questions once you get time to study it.
"I'm kind of scared of using propane."
Have you ever cooked on a gas stove? There is very little difference between natural gas and propane, or more properly, LP (Liquid Propane). Both technologies have been around for many years and when handled properly are entirely safe. There should be a small round gauge in the gas line to the left of the tank. If it's working properly it will give you a rough estimate of how much LP remains in the tank. Your monitor panel also gives an LP reading but, because of it's inaccuracy's, I would not trust it.
"I'm kind of scared of using propane."
Have you ever cooked on a gas stove?
I prefer cooking on a gas stove. My stove and my dryer are gas. It's something about having a tank of gas that I have to turn on and off that gets me nervous. Not necessarily rational, but it is what it is
Also have to unjam that door to get to the propane knob.
You will ( I usually say 'might', but this is a 'will' situation) definitely want to have a pressure leak test done on the propane system! A good RV shop can and should do this, or at least advise where you might get it done, but, alternatively, call local propane suppliers, e.g., Amerigas or another; some, but not all, will do a leak test on an RV.
Looked back over the first posts. Congratulations, you have your office. Once the gate is done you'll have the mobile part as well. It's safely tucked in at home and you can take your time to decide how to set up your workspace and where to put the dog beds. Great progress !
Lisa,
The manuals were typed with hand drawings in that era. My 1988 Mid Bath on a Ford Chassis has a 1986 manual that only describes Chevrolet G30 limitations andoptions.
Lisa,
The manuals were typed with hand drawings in that era. My 1988 Mid Bath on a Ford Chassis has a 1986 manual that only describes Chevrolet G30 limitations andoptions.
Do they even have computers at the Mothership yet? ;)
Is it weird that I bought my house just a few months ago but I am enjoying hanging out in my LD in the backyard more? I even have a bay view from my "loft bedroom."
It's quieter in there than in my house. I think the windows are better insulated than my 1923 home.
Do they even have computers at the Mothership yet? ;)
Computers were a new feature at the Mothership when we ordered our LD, in 2002.
I remember watching Uncle Paul play cards games on his for hours.
Never fear, they still have carbon paper receipts.
Larry
Is it weird that I bought my house just a few months ago but I am enjoying hanging out in my LD in the backyard more?
No, it's not weird, you are bonding.
Most of us like to hang out in our LDs.
Larry
Is it weird that I bought my house just a few months ago but I am enjoying hanging out in my LD in the backyard more? I even have a bay view from my "loft bedroom."
It's quieter in there than in my house. I think the windows are better insulated than my 1923 home.
It didn't take you long to discover that clean little secret of an LD. Have the dogs figured out how to get up to the loft yet?
You may have to build them a stairway. That shepherd may be hard to lift that high :)
Oh yes the LD is quieter than my 1959 house. When the neighborhood irritates the dog, I sleep with her in the LD.
F*!@!)#!!!!
I was just looking out at the LD and noticed the damage that must have occurred when I backed into the phone pole. I smashed one side of the ladder into the shell. I am so sickened by this. I was going really, really slow when it happened. I can't believe it takes so little to damage this thing.
I am sick to my stomach. I know that needs repair fast before interior damage occurs.
It was in perfect condition before- that's one of the things I checked. I had even climbed up the ladder and it felt really solid. And there were no holes/punctures to be seen in the shell when I bought it. Ugh. Ugh ugh ugh.
You & the dogs
Swallow a frog first thing in the morning and you day is bound to improve.
If it doesn't, you have at least baselined a really s****y day.
Post pictures and suggestions on handling it should appear.
Condolences
Hug the dogs
I smashed one side of the ladder into the shell.
Sadly, everything in life breaks or fails at some time or another. It's just the way it is and without exception. My first suggestion is to seal the damaged areas as you've already mentioned. Secondly, check with your RV insurance company for guidance on coverage and the repair. As mentioned by many LDOs, there are not many repair shops that can work with the aluminum body on a LD as well as the Factory. If it was us and we lived within driving distance of the Factory, I'd call them on Monday and talk to them about the damage. If the insurance company will cover the cost of repair less the deductibles, then this damage to your lovely LD changes from terrible to something way less stressful. Best of luck.
Lisa, I remember you were having an issue with AAA regarding insuring the RV. Were you able to resolve the problem?
Hi all!
I know it's been a while, but work got really intense and I was overwhelmed. Plus the rain made it less appealing to go out and deal with the LD. Then I got another concussion a couple weeks ago, so I couldn't do anything. Especially not try and drive a 10.5 ton vehicle!
Anyway, the good news: I got a new gate installed on my driveway. That was not cheap. BUT it did add about 8" to the clearance. If I remove a tree/bush that I'm not all that attached to, I will have even more room. That said, I had some guys over doing some work on my house today and they acted as guides so I could back out my very long, sloped driveway. The top of the LD is about the same height as my roof eaves, and it was the first time driving this thing since I smashed it into the old gate posts trying to back in. But this time went fine! I did really good AND with their directions, I was able to back it in my driveway this time without any issue! I hope to get better at it so I don't need anyone to wave me in, but she is now parked face out, so I can at least drive her out to get more work done without needing help!
I've also spent more time in her, and I have to say, aside from the weird smell (kind of reminds me of an airport, but definitely not mold or musty), it's really a nice place to hang out. i spent an entire afternoon writing a motion at the dinette. It's great because I can look out at my yard and watch the dogs from the comfort of my little home. That's the only downside to switching directions- now the dinette is on the fence side. But since I plan to start driving it soon, that's ok. The good thing is that now the house door faces the yard, making it easier to go in.
So my next thing is to find a place to look at the brakes, do an alignment and look at the suspension. It was suggested that the steering might be loose due to the suspension. That scares me, but I'd rather find out than die in a fiery accident.
As for insurance, AAA never helped. They suck and when my insurance ends in May, I'm switching. I ended up with Good Sam, who was the cheapest and easiest to deal with by far. No problems with identifying my RV as an RV. I didn't even think about calling them regarding my mishap, as I've always only had liability insurance and so any damage I've done to my own cars was never covered. I can't recall what coverage I got for the RV, but I think there was some limited damage coverage, so I 'll call. There are some RV body repair places nearby, so I'll have to check with those before thinking of driving all the way down South to the LD factory.
I am taking some much needed time off now that my case from hell has ended. The concussion sucked but it made time off a necessity, which is good since otherwise I might have continued to take on new clients. Now I can't for a while. That means very real possibility for trying the LD on the road! I'm excited (and a bit nervous) to see how she does. Even if she turns out to be not great for long trips, I still think she'll be great for my intended purpose of a mobile office locally.
Yay!
The picture is today. It looks weird because of lighting- there is really very little banged up on this side.
Lisa G.
Hi Youandthedogs , glad to hear from you.
Sorry about the concussion. Didn't they teach you in law school NOT to bang your head against the wall over something the client said? It looks happy there and so do said k-9s.
How much room does the the shrub removal add?
Is the right side the one that got scraped? At least the post was lower than the awning - that seems unaffected. From the pic it doesn't look too terrible (doesn't necessarily mean cheap to fix).
Rest and recover, concussions are never trivial.
If you want, can you send pics of the damage to the ladder? Some here might have some helpful suggestions.
joel
Thanks! For now I'm going to keep the ladder taped up as there is more rain in the forecast. With the tape on, you can't see the hole. :( Also, now that i've turned it around, it's too close to the fence to photograph. And I put so many bricks in front of the wheels I don't want to hassle with them until I actually drive this to the next shop for diagnostics.
The other side is actually much worse. This side the compartment doors are fine- nothing pushed in or anything. There is a scrape and minor dent on the door, but it appears cosmetic so not concerned. I wish there were more RV places around here. The Bay Area is already so expensive, but coupled with the high price of real estate, there are very few shops within a 30 minute drive that have the space to work on RVs. Between the already high prices and the scarcity of options, the few places there are seem to charge ridiculous prices and have bad reviews. The one place I was referred to, and which seems to be the primary RV go-to place in the area for mechanical stuff quoted me at least $5k for transmission. Seems like that is generally accepted. Good thing I checked with my regular place, since that saved $1800 for the same job. For mechanical stuff I hope to find a place that specializes in trucks that also words on RVs, as I suspect they will be cheaper. There is a place not too far that works on the structural/house parts of RVs, and I'll check them out. But a woman on the Lazy Daze Facebook page says she works at a place in San Jose that does structural RV work, and told me to contact her because she is a fellow LD fan/owner and may be able to help me out. So I'll be checking out my options. I just worry about driving to San Jose right off the bat. An hour drive with a ton of traffic *shudder*.
Hi, we just had the Silver Fox realigned - mostly as a precaution after our long trip last summer and before we take off again - it was fine - just a few tweaks. We took it to a Les Schaub (sp?) dealer and they were very good and very reasonable. Since we didn't need much, the charge was $79 + tax. A full alignment would have been $179 + tax. This is a national chain so there are probably some in your area. Not all of the Les Schaub dealers do motor home alignments so you may want to call and check. We had to go about 30 miles but it was certainly worth it.
Good luck.
Jean
Thanks for that info. There is a truck (BIG truck) shop somewhere in the industrial area in my city that I called who said they do alignments for RVs. Funny, as they stated it was $179.99! It was not a Les Schuab, but sounds like competitive pricing. I'm not sure if the issue is alignment- I'm worried it could be something more serious. Someone mentioned it could be the chassis (earlier I mentioned suspension, but remembered they had mentioned the chassis). But I suppose the alignment is probably still a good idea. Ideally I'd find an honest shop that can go over the whole thing and tell me what needs to be done in order of priority. The transmission shop I took it to looked it over and thought overall it seemed good (other than the transmission and alternator that were shot), but they were honest and said they specialize in transmissions and that they are not the people to diagnose problems specific to RVs.
The very best place to take your RV 🚐 for an overall check up is the mothership. They would be able to give you a priority list and even do the work. If I bought a new to me LD that’s the first place I’d go. You can trust them.
Learn to drive that short thing and take the trip down south 😊 I drive a 30’ IB so I know it can be done
Cynthia
The factory doesn't do "chassis", engine, or systems repairs, e.g., alignments, brakes, hoses, tires, what-have-you. Some "shops" do some things, but not all "shops" do all things; the type and cope of the work should be matched to the repair savvy and abilities of a particular facility. IMO, for the type of work that Lisa feels may be needed, I believe that she would be better off to find a mechanic/shop who's familiar with Chevy engines and chassis of that vintage.
YMMV, of course. ;)
The factory doesn't do "chassis", engine, or systems repairs, e.g., alignments, brakes, hoses, tires, what-have-you. Some "shops" do some things, but not all "shops" do all things; the type and cope of the work should be matched to the repair savvy and abilities of a particular facility. IMO, for the type of work that Lisa feels may be needed, I believe that she would be better off to find a mechanic/shop who's familiar with Chevy engines and chassis of that vintage.
YMMV, of course. ;)
Ah! Thanks! That's kind of what I thought. I know the mothership does repairs on the house part (what's the official term for that part?), but before I even start thinking about the damage I caused from hitting the ladder into the shell, I want to make sure this thing is mechanically sound and safe to drive. I wish my dad was closer, as he has been driving and repairing his old Chevy and Dodge vans /trucks my entire life. My first memory of being in a vehicle is sitting on the engine block with my older brother behind me. I know, real safe :P At least my dad was considerate enough to cover our "child" seat with a canvas tarp. Some of the really old models of the LD that I've seen have a front end that looks just like some of the vans I grew up around.
I'm taking a while off work so I'm going to be calling lots of places to see who can work on this. But again, if anyone is local to the San Francisco Bay Area and has recommendations, I'd love to see them. The place is Pleasanton or Pleasant Hill (can't recall which), is a no-go for me based on experience I had there (total coincidence- tranny in my Corolla just happened to go out near them).
Thanks again!
Lisa
The factory doesn't do "chassis"
Ah! Going over some other threads I return to my original statement- it WAS the suspension mentioned to me , not the chassis. Doh. I can only hope and pray I don't need to spend as much on making this safe to drive as it would cost to buy a new one!!
Lisa
Hi again,
Just updating in the hopes that if anything sounds off, someone will chime in and give a warning:
I took the LD to a truck place- Specialized Automotive Systems in San Leandro, CA- to have the brakes and suspension checked out.
They have told me several things it needs, including new brake pads, rotors, something arm, and some other stuff. I guess I should get the specific list (there were many items). He said the left rotor (?) is warped and that's why it's pulling to the left. And these other things are the reason for the loose steering. Total parts and labor is about $2400. Since that is less than I expected, it sounds ok. But I really don't know!
Also said the shocks superficially look ok, i.e. no leakage, but they are the original shocks. I asked about replacements and he mentioned AC Delco, Munroe (sp?), and when I mentioned there was some type I've read about, he said there is a really good brand, much more expensive, that are the best for RVs.
Also looking into a radiator, but the problem is all he can find are plastic ones, or an aluminum that is 4x the price.
So all in all, is this sounding right to people? Is the $2400 a good price? I'm going to call him back and get the list of items..
Lisa
Without a complete and itemized list of the repairs, replacements, parts, and estimated shop time to do the jobs (and shop labor charges; always high in the Bay Area), it's impossible to say whether the figure you were given is "fair".
You may be referring to Bilstein or Koni shocks; Konis are more expensive than Bilstein. You might want to check Bilstein - KYB - Rancho - Monroe - KONI Shocks and Struts - Shockwarehouse.com (http://www.shockwarehouse.com/) for shock options appropriate to your rig.
You may be referring to Bilstein or Koni shocks; Konis are more expensive than Bilstein. You might want to check Bilstein - KYB - Rancho - Monroe - KONI Shocks and Struts - Shockwarehouse.com (http://www.shockwarehouse.com/) for shock options appropriate to your rig.
Ah! It was Koni.
I'm waiting for the list to be emailed. I will post after I get it.
Lisa
Also looking into a radiator, but the problem is all he can find are plastic ones, or an aluminum that is 4x the price.
Just about every new car's radiator, sold today, has plastic tanks.
If you are old enough, you will remember that brass tanks developed leaks too. Back in the dreadful days before the better coolants were developed, along with less corrosive engine chemistries.
You will only find aluminum tanks on high performance, race car stuff.
Try to find a radiator with a 1-1/2" minimum core thickness.
Make sure it is made for an automatic transmission, the radiator needs to have a built-in transmission fluid cooler.
You should also have an external transmission fluid cooler.
Larry
Ok, below is the list I was sent.
The first list of parts and labor is for suspension and brakes. They said they use only quality, namebrand parts. I have to just take that on faith I guess. Does price sound fair (keeping in mind I live in the SF Bay Area)?
The shocks are TBD. Any input?
Then there is that list of things they found. Which of those need to taken care of immediately?
Thanks!
Lisa
Parts. $ 915.00 Calipers, rotors, pads, upper a-arm shafts and bushings, front seals, idler arm, right side tie rod, brake clean, brake fluid, grease.
Labor $1,375.00 11.0 hours. Inspection, Remove the upper A-arms, press out old bushings.press on new bushings.restall the a-arm.remove and replace the defective idler arm and tie rod end.
Remove and replace the calipers, pads, rotors, clean and pack the bearings after inspection. flush and bleed the brake system. Align the front suspension.
Tax $ 89.21
Total $2,379.21
-------------------------------- +
Shocks
Parts $ 300.00 w/Tax Good quality Monroe shocks.
Labor $ 187.50 1.5 hours. (Flat rate is 2.5 hours $312.50)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Parts $ 800.25 W/Tax Best quality- Bilstein shocks.
Labor $ 187.50 1.5 hours (The same discount applied as above).
I had my guy do a quick inspection of the motorhome.(no charge). He found.
-small engine oil leak at the oil pan or rear main seal area.(not poring, just wet).
-Left side inner brake light turns off with the headlight on.(wiring issue).
-Right rear marker light is not working.
-Right center clearance light not working.
-Left rear marker lens is broken.
-Right headlight is full of water.
-Lic plate light is not working.
-wiper blades are not wiping well(needs blades).
-The power steering pump is leaking.(leaves a small puddle on the ground).
-The exhaust catalytic converter heat shield is rattling. muffler has several rust holes in it.
-The radiator has corrosion in it but is not leaking at this time. The radiator that is in it now has an engine oil cooler and transmission cooler.
The aftermarket aluminum radiator does not have the built-in engine oil cooler.
The per-hour labor charges are in line with Bay Area prices, but one item that stands out as way out of line (to me) is the proposed charge of $800 bucks for 4 Bilsteins! I can't tell from the list if this is the total charge, i.e., including the labor to install them, or if the notation of $187.50 is over and above the $800? Granted, prices for parts can vary widely, but check this page for the price of 4 Bilsteins that are a fit for a 1991 G30 Chevy.
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm?mode=results&selected_model=3812&selected_year=1991
It's a good bet that Larry and others will offer opinions on which of the services, if not all of the above, should be done a.s.a.p.
Wow. Yeah. Even accounting for mark up, that's crazy. I'm going to call them and ask what's up with the pricing.
Thanks
The first list of parts and labor is for suspension and brakes. They said they use only quality, namebrand parts.
The shocks are TBD. Any input?
Parts. $ 915.00 Calipers, rotors, pads, upper a-arm shafts and bushings, front seals, idler arm, right side tie rod, brake clean, brake fluid, grease.
Labor $1,375.00 11.0 hours. Inspection, Remove the upper A-arms, press out old bushings.press on new bushings.restall the a-arm.remove and replace the defective idler arm and tie rod end.
Remove and replace the calipers, pads, rotors, clean and pack the bearings after inspection. flush and bleed the brake system. Align the front suspension.
Tax $ 89.21
Total $2,379.21
-------------------------------- +
Left side inner brake light turns off with the headlight on.(wiring issue).
-Right rear marker light is not working.
-Right center clearance light not working.
-Left rear marker lens is broken.
-Right headlight is full of water.
-Lic plate light is not working.
-wiper blades are not wiping well(needs blades).
-The power steering pump is leaking.(leaves a small puddle on the ground).
-The exhaust catalytic converter heat shield is rattling. muffler has several rust holes in it.
-The radiator has corrosion in it but is not leaking at this time. The radiator that is in it now has an engine oil cooler and transmission cooler.
The aftermarket aluminum radiator does not have the built-in engine oil cooler.
Make sure all the parts are "professional" and not "service" grade, there can be big differences in quality.
I can't comment on the price because I don't know all the details but it doesn't look too far out of line.
All the shown repairs should be done.
On The new list, you should at least get the headlights and tail lights working, if just for legal reasons.
Wiper blades are cheap but you my not see rain until next November unless you are heading north.
When the muffler annoys you enough, change it.
Heat shields rattle. Make sure it isn't the catalytic converter itself, they fall apart too and rattle.
The power steering pump is a concern since it power boosts both the steering and the brakes.
If the pump dies, so does the power steering and power brakes.
Ask the mechanic if he considers it a nuisance or a safety concern.
IMO, it is impossible to have too strong a shock on the front of the G30 frontend, the shocks sit at an angle, reducing their effectiveness. The rear suspension is soft and can use the regular Bilsteins without a problem.
The older Chevys had a poor mix of metals, leading thrust and corrosion in the cooling system.
It needs the cooling system flushed and cleaned, the refilled with coolant. At the same time the water pump should be checked for wear and the thermostat replaced. If you are changing the radiator too, do they lush and clean at the same time.
Back to the radiator, forget the aluminum one and find a a HD model, at least 1-1/2" thick, with both a transmission and engine oil coolers.
Rock Auto shows an ACDelco radiator for about $360. Have the mechanic check the condition of the radiator and heater hoses, you would be surprised how many 20+ year old RVs I see with the original hoses.
Sorry about the delay, I was called away while I trying to finish and I guess i push the wrong buttons.
Larry
Larry, your response was a "no show"! :o
Larry's narrative is under separate cover....
Larry's narrative is under separate cover....
?
Not sure what you mean, but I'd really like to see what he has to say, as the repair shop is waiting on me to hear back about the shocks, etc. The mechanic just wrote to me and said the prices at the link provided by JCT are really good and $100 cheaper than they can get them for, so he told me I can order them and they'll install.
But I had someone on the LD facebook page tell me that she got Bilsteins on her LD and they are too stiff. So not sure what to think. Maybe I should just go with the Monroes?
Lisa
Lisa,
Personally, I would go with the Koni's but since your stated primary use of this RV is as a mobile office, this might be an opportunity to save a little cash.
Personally, I would go with the Koni's but since your stated primary use of this RV is as a mobile office, this might be an opportunity to save a little cash.
He looked for them and said for some reason he could not get them for my model. I'll check into it further.
"...she got Bilsteins on her LD and they are too stiff."
---
What works for one person does not necessarily work for another; every rig is different, as is each person's use of the rig. Bilstein offers two "levels" of shock: regular and "comfort"; comforts provide a "softer" ride. Both shock types are listed on the Shock Warehouse site; the regular shocks are usually used on heavier, longer wheelbase motorhomes, particularly those with long rear overhangs. However, I have the regular Bilsteins on my 24'; they do provide a stiffer ride, but I like them.
IMO, your choice of shocks depends on how, how much, and where your rig will be driven/used. If you just plan to carry minimal weight, locate primarily in one spot, or move seldom or for short distances, a less expensive shock, e.g., Monroe, may well do the job for your purposes. If you are going to use the motorhome to actually travel and carry you, dogs, fluids, equipment, and supplies, you might consider a higher-quality shock.
I don't know where Larry's reply went, but I hope he re-posts his comments.
I don't know where Larry's reply went, but I hope he re-posts his comments.
Me too!
I do hope to take my LD on at least a few road trips, and want it to be as safe and comfortable as possible. Also, living in Oakland, many of the streets here are as bad or worse than a dirt road full of ditches. Seriously, the streets here are in the worst shape of any city I've been in. Very, very bad for vehicles. So I'd rather get something that will provide as much protection and absorption as possible. Not sure why mechanic can't find Konis for mine. I am calling another shop today to see if they can find them to fit and get a price.
There are no shocks for a Chevy G30 chassis on the Koni website.
Larry's narrative is under separate cover....
Fixed.
Larry
Good points on all the repair list items and on the Chevy shock choice, Larry; you would know! 😜
Make sure all the parts are "professional" and not "service" grade, there can be big differences in quality.
I can't comment on the price because I don't know all the details but it doesn't look too far out of line.
All the shown repairs should be done.
On The new list, you should at least get the headlights and tail lights working, if just for legal reasons.
Wiper blades are cheap but you my not see rain until next November unless you are heading north.
When the muffler annoys you enough, change it.
Heat shields rattle. Make sure it isn't the catalytic converter itself, they fall apart too and rattle.
The power steering pump is a concern since it power boosts both the steering and the brakes.
If the pump dies, so does the power steering and power brakes.
Ask the mechanic if he considers it a nuisance or a safety concern.
IMO, it is impossible to have too strong a shock on the front of the G30 frontend, the shocks sit at an angle, reducing their effectiveness. The rear suspension is soft and can use the regular Bilsteins without a problem.
The older Chevys had a poor mix of metals, leading thrust and corrosion in the cooling system.
It needs the cooling system flushed and cleaned, the refilled with coolant. At the same time the water pump should be checked for wear and the thermostat replaced. If you are changing the radiator too, do they lush and clean at the same time.
Back to the radiator, forget the aluminum one and find a a HD model, at least 1-1/2" thick, with both a transmission and engine oil coolers.
Rock Auto shows an ACDelco radiator for about $360. Have the mechanic check the condition of the radiator and heater hoses, you would be surprised how many 20+ year old RVs I see with the original hoses.
Sorry about the delay, I was called away while I trying to finish and I guess i push the wrong buttons.
Larry
Well that is an awesome assessment! Thank you! I'm sending it to the mechanic. So far I have a good feeling about the shop. The fact that he doesn't mind me ordering parts for cheaper is a good sign, as I know they make a chunk of their income from mark ups of parts.
Hopefully I won't be filing Chapter 11 after all is said and done. I still need the house worked on!!
Lisa
I still need the house worked on!!
Lisa
Your LD qualifies as a second home, even in the driveway. ;)
Your LD qualifies as a second home, even in the driveway. ;)
I meant the house part of my RV! Though my actual house also needs a ton of work.
Ok,
Latest drama- The shop is working on the rear lights and found that the light bucket (?. The metal part it sits in), is totally rusted. So rusted they are having a hard time getting it out. This goes along with the totally rusted out bumper. I'm worried.
I was aware of the extensive rust on the bumper, but they are now saying the rust and extensive corrosion in the light fixtures and wiring could be indicative of internal damage in the structure of the house part. Neither I nor them can figure out why the rust is SO bad on the rear end. When I say bad, I mean the bumper is literally flaking off.
There does appear to be spots of rust elsewhere (small areas along body of house where paint is bubbling), but WHY so bad on the rear? Anyone seen this before?
Am I paying all this money for mechanical fixes just to find out the house part is totally ruined? He did say the inside looks really clean. And I have inspected it more extensively for water damage and honestly have found nothing. No stains, no smell, no soft spots nor any indication of leakage. All the original upholstery is intact with no sign of having ever been messed up. The walls feel solid and under the sinks I see nothing.
What is up with this rust?
Lisa G
I can't recall if the 1991 Multi-plan has a spare tire mount on the rear? If it does, you might want to check to see that the spare tire "tub" is sealed; if there are breaks, water could easily have penetrated into the framing and seeped down to rust out the bumper. As for the "bubbling paint blisters" on the body, those are likely not due to rust, but to corrosion on the aluminum panels.
Water could also have leaked in around the rear window and rotted the framing; did the mechanics get under the back end with a flashlight and a screwdriver to check for rotted wood?
Lisa, it's regrettable that this rig has shown itself to be riddled with warts; this is only my opinion, and you will do what you feel is best for you, but, candidly, if I were in this situation, I would stop the cash bleed, get what I could out of selling it "as is", and chalk the experience up to a hard, disappointing, and expensive lesson on the RV learning curve.
Joan
On LDs newer than 1990 models, I see as much more rot and corrosion on the rear of the rig than the front.
The rear window and wall is slopped and this slows down water draining off the rear.
The rear window seals do dry up and need to be renewed. The leaks can come from either water leaking around the frame or between the frame and the glass.
On our 2003 LD, I found the rubber gasket between the glass and frame to be pushed in, allowing excessive water to enter the window's drain channel, possibly more than what the two drain holes can handle.
I resealed the bad gasket with black 3M 5200, after taping the glass and frame.
The outside of all our window frames have been resealed too.
The spare tire sits in a recessed well, The well can pull away from the rear wall, allowing leakage into the wall and down to the rear bumper. This shouldn't be a issue since the well is supposed to be screwed and glued in position. I have found several LDs missing the screws, including our rig.
I found one LD that the well was not screwed and well pulled away before the sealant cured, leaving an exposed 1/4" gap that allow any water flowing down the rear to enter the wall.
The LD was over 12 years old at that point and had extensive rear end rot.
Repairing this type of damage is very expensive if you can't do it yourself.
Joan's suggestion to unload this beast be the best advice you get today.
We always suggest having possible purchases inspected by a competent mechanic and RV tech.
It's expensive but so much cheaper to find out BEFORE laying your money down on a rig that is a disaster on wheels.
At least now, you have a mechanic you like.
Sorry it worked out this way.
Larry
He said they don't usually do any work or inspections of the house part, but I asked him to check with the light and screwdriver under the rear. He said there shouldn't be any exposed wood so not sure what to look for , but they'll look.
So, if the back end IS rotted, what does that mean for the vehicle? I mean, could I still use it for a couple years? What happens?
He said they don't usually do any work or inspections of the house part, but I asked him to check with the light and screwdriver under the rear. He said there shouldn't be any exposed wood so not sure what to look for , but they'll look.
So, if the back end IS rotted, what does that mean for the vehicle? I mean, could I still use it for a couple years? What happens?
Seal it as well as possible to slow down or stop the decay and use it as is.
My concern would be the decay doesn't stop, and becomes more obvious, making it harder to sell.
Larry
Again, just my opinion, but it makes no sense to me to still plan on pumping thousands of dollars more into repairing and replacing all the list items previously mentioned while the back end rots away.
If you are reluctant to "cut the cord", I strongly suggest that you hire a tech (a local RV service center) who is familiar with coach construction and who knows what to look for to assess the causes of the extensive rust and any water/dry rot damage; you need an accurate evaluation of the extent of the issues (and a ballpark estimate of what it would cost to repair it) to give you a basis to decide how far you want to take this.
Again, just my opinion, but it makes no sense to me to still plan on pumping thousands of dollars more into repairing and replacing all the list items previously mentioned while the back end rots away.
If you are reluctant to "cut the cord", I strongly suggest that you hire a tech (a local RV service center) who is familiar with coach construction and who knows what to look for to assess the causes of the extensive rust and any water/dry rot damage; you need an accurate evaluation of the extent of the issues (and a ballpark estimate of what it would cost to repair it) to give you a basis to decide how far you want to take this.
I get it. The problem is that it's already getting brake and suspension work done. As in, they've already got the parts and started the work. I can't just tell them to stop. And there is nobody in the vicinity that i know of that can come take a look while it's in the shop.
For me, if I can safely use it for a few years, that would be a worthwhile investment. That's why I'm wondering about the safety of using it, rather than resale value.
My primary goals are:
1) at least a couple years of use;
2) ensure it is safe to use during that couple years;
3) least important, but still would be nice, be able to take at least a couple roadtrips in it. Probably not across the country, but maybe across half the country?
Is any of the above going to be impossible if there is moderate or even severe rot? This is an honest question, as I really do not know. I get that it could collapse if REALLY bad, but since there is nothing obvious (i.e. can't see or feel anything from the interior of the cabin), I am going to guess it's not about to collapse.
Lisa
Is any of the above going to be impossible if there is moderate or even severe rot? This is an honest question, as I really do not know. I get that it could collapse if REALLY bad, but since there is nothing obvious (i.e. can't see or feel anything from the interior of the cabin), I am going to guess it's not about to collapse.
As long as the chassis is mechanically sound and the coach is sealed up so water does not continue to enter, it should be usable.
I would still want to get an assessment of any damage. You don't want the spare tire and rear cover flying away at 60-MPH..
Right now, with the limited information we have, it all guesses as to what you should do.
Your LD could have superficial or serious damage, who really knows without an knowlegable inspection?
The rust and corrosion you now are referring to must not be too bad, there was no mention of it in your original posting about the condition of this rig
Check for damage inside the rig, particularly in the rear corners around and below the windows.
Use an ice pick to test for soft wood. It's my tool of choice.
The bottom of the rear wall is subject to rot, you can see it from below, the rear bumper is bolted to it.
Probe all along the bottom of the wall with the ice pick, the wood should be firm and resistant to probes of the ice pick.
While you are it, check the front corners of the bunk area, under the mattress, it's the other most common area of leakage.
Some photos of the rear wall and bumper would be helpful.
Larry
The rust and corrosion you now are referring to must not be too bad, there was no mention of it in your original posting about the condition of this rig
Check for damage inside the rig, particularly in the rear corners around and below the windows.
Use an ice pick to test for soft wood. It's my tool of choice.
The bottom of the rear wall is subject to rot, you can see it from below, the rear bumper is bolted to it.
Probe all along the bottom of the wall with the ice pick, the wood should be firm and resistant to probes of the ice pick.
While you are it, check the front corners of the bunk area, under the mattress, it's the other most common area of leakage.
Some photos of the rear wall and bumper would be helpful.
Larry
Thanks for all this. I did mention the bumper in one of my early posts. It's totally rusted through. Flaking off. Particularly on the right side. I thought maybe due to where last owner parked it. It was in his driveway under a tree. I guess I'll find out if it's inside soon enough.
Are you suggesting I do the ice pick test in the upper bunk? I can't imagine that's what you mean, but thought I'd ask. I have looked up there under the mattress and under the windows- no visible signs of leaks and no softness in walls. Still has the original curtains and there is no staining. I looked because one RV I had looked at (not an LD), the owner said no leaks but one of the curtains was noticeably stained. The mattress is in great shape, and there is carpeting and upholstery in several places along the wall, all of which is in great shape. The upper bunk platform is not pulling away at the seams, no warping, nothing.
I am thinking about going over to the shop on Monday and doing the ice pick test myself. If it's really bad, I will have them finish the work to which I've already agreed, and then see about taking it to a shop in San Jose where the LD owner on Facebook works. They work on the house part, and she's saying it would about an hour of work to remove the rear windows and inspect for damage. At least after the brake and front end work it should feel (and be) safe to drive the hour on the freeway down to San Jose. Then I can decide what to do. But honestly, I expected to put money into this thing, I had a certain budget for an RV, and decided that if I found one with the right specs at a reasonable price that left enough in my RV budget for needed work, I would get it. So far my LD is within the budget I anticipated. Had the seller not paid for the transmission and alternator, I'd be looking at selling this thing last week. But he did, and the mechanical stuff was expected. I just don't know what to expect with rot damage.
Hoping for the best, because I'm already fond of this LD.
Lisa
Thanks!
I checked it out today. I looked for signs of water intrusion, etc. This was, by far, the best looking RV I've looked at so far. Despite it's age, it looked amazingly good. Very little rust (a few spots on the truck nose where a bit of paint had chipped), no sign of leaks, everything started up and worked on first try. The seller had put in real hardwood floors, solar panels, a rear back up monitor, stereo. The above cabin bed and area looked almost new. I was pleasantly surprised.
The tires looked good, but the guy did say he has not changed them in the 3 years he's owned the RV, and that he's put 4k on them. So I would probably need to get new ones. I drove it briefly on the freeway and it drove well, though I noticed that on braking it did pull to the left. My thought is it needs alignment. If there is some known problem of which this would be indicative, I would love to hear so I can look into it further.
It's also not cheap- he's asking $12500. But where I live, there has been a shortage of used RVs since the fires in N. California. The prices on used RVs also have gone up ridiculously since then. And anything worth buying goes super fast- I missed a call one Saturday about an RV posted the night before. By time I talked to the seller 2 hours later, he had already sold it.
Anyway, I told the guy I want to buy it. He is going to get it smogged (passed 6 months ago, but seller has to smog before selling here in CA), and then we're going to figure out how to get it to me. He's an hour drive from me with about 12 miles of very, very windy mountain roads that I am in no way ready to drive on my first try. I get nervous driving those roads in my Corolla!
As for use- this is primarily to serve as a mobile office locally. I may have to go up some hills in San Francisco, but not often. I would love to take it on a road trip, but that's not the reason for buying it. If it seems good for a road trip, i will, but for now this is just the right configuration for my needs, and appears to be in fine condition for local use.
That price is far above what it should be. Just bought mine, same model with less than 16K miles, for 4K. Granted I had leaks to repair. You should not be paying that much, no matter what. Sorry if this bursts your bubble.
Remember to be highly circumspect with all responding posts. Those who are not wealthy, like yours truly, have different value systems than those who have a healthy cash flow. This is my home wher3eas to others it is simply a toy. I value mechanical soundness far above whether my LD is finished in gold or silver. I do not need anything bigger in every aspect, than what I bought. My biggest selling point is always the engine for example. To another, it is whether I can sleep 4 of 65!
My chassis is a Chevy 350, 5.7l. I do not need anything bigger. Just know the limitations and plan accordingly. Unlike the Big Blocks, we are required to nurse our babies. Good luck to you.
That price is far above what it should be. Just bought mine, same model with less than 16K miles, for 4K. Granted I had leaks to repair. You should not be paying that much, no matter what. Sorry if this bursts your bubble.
Well, thanks, but if you read the rest of the thread, I bought it. I don't know where you live, but in my area everything costs substantially more than in the rest of the country, and RVs are no exception. Coupled with the massive fires in the area that displaced thousands of people, finding any decent, used RV for anything close to a reasonable price had become next to impossible.
I had been looking for many months, and I continue to keep tabs on local RVs for sale, and the one I got was the ONLY one of its kind I have seen, i.e. the 22' MP. It's exactly what I was looking for, and since I don't have the luxury of flying to other parts of the country to look at ones that may be available, my options were pretty much limited to the more immediate area.
I'm hoping for the best with the next inspection. With the work being done, it will certainly be mechanically sound. The house part is my biggest concern right now.
Just as an aside- your model is likely not quite the same as mine. If you go through the ginormous thread here, you'll see that some say the house part was improved in models built after 1990 , and the transmission changed from a 3 to a 4 speed. Not sure how much it matters, but the implication is that models build after 1990 are at least somewhat improved over the earlier modes.
Lisa
Lisa said..”and the one I got was the ONLY one of its kind I have seen”.
According to some very seasoned buyers of vintage goods, “The time to buy it is when you find it”...Mike Wolfe-American Pickers.
Lisa...Best of everything in your renovation...
...Warts and all. 🤗
Kent
Lisa said..”and the one I got was the ONLY one of its kind I have seen”.
According to some very seasoned buyers of vintage goods, “The time to buy it is when you find it”...Mike Wolfe-American Pickers.
Lisa...Best of everything in your renovation...
...Warts and all. 🤗
Kent
THANK YOU!
HI Lisa,
You may want to consider searching for Tim Pease. He worked for LD for many years. When we last talked with him, he was working at an RV dealership west of Sacramento. In the Vacaville area, perhaps? He is very knowledgeable on LD and was working for the factory at the time your rig was built. Does anyone on the forum have current contact info for him?
Best,
JuliW
"You may want to consider searching for Tim Pease. He worked for LD for many years. "
My Contact list shows his information as:
Tim Pease
909 / 228 - 8916
emrv1111@yahoo.com
I've written to him at that email address, but it was many years ago. No clue where he is now, but maybe this is a starting place.
Virtual hugs,
Judie <-- Sierra Vista, Arizona
Adventures of Dorrie Anne | Photographing the West (http://dorrieanne.wordpress.com)
Today: Day of the Iguana
**************************************
Thanks. Today I actually talked to a mobile RV mechanic named Tim who is in Morgan Hill. But he doesn't come up this far. Looks like I am going to be taking my LD to a place in San Jose. The woman I've been talking to who works there has an LD and said not to jump to conclusions until it's been inspected. I did get pics from mechanic today and to me it looks terrible. Definitely rot under the rear of the vehicle. And some issue with rear bathroom wall. However, the mechanic said he sees no indication of a roof leak or anything from on top, but because the spare tire compartment is fiberglass and intact, he said there is no way to check behind it without disassembling, which they don't do. Both he and the RV shop woman seem to think the damage is at the bottom and may be via broken seals in the tail lights.
The brakes and front end work has already been done, so I'm going to pick up the RV in next couple days and probably just drive it down to San Jose for the inspection and hope for the best. After getting a new tranny, alternator, brakes, and suspension work, I don't see how I could make my money back by selling it now even if I wanted to do so. Therefore, if the inspection shows even moderate damage but of a type that can be slowed and make the RV safe and usable for at least a couple years, I'll likely just take that route. If my plan for the RV works out, I'll hopefully be in a position within a couple years to get another one if and when the times comes.
If anyone has contact info for the Tim from LD, please do let me know.
Thanks!
Lisa
Tim Pease worked at Lazy Daze before moving to the Sacramento area several years ago. As I remember, he worked for an RV dealership in Fairfield (?) and had his own RV inspection and repair business called “Extra Mile RV”. The website for that business is inactive, and I have no idea if he is still active in any RV-connected business.
Leaks in the “light cans” are possible rot causes, but I think it’s more likely that water damage in the rear is from water leaking into the framing from around the rear window and/or from compromised roof seals or breaks in the sealant around the bases of the aluminum tubing of the “roof rack”.
Tim Pease worked at Lazy Daze before moving to the Sacramento area several years ago. As I remember, he worked for an RV dealership in Fairfield (?) and had his own RV inspection and repair business called “Extra Mile RV”. The website for that business is inactive, and I have no idea if he is still active in any RV-connected business.
Found his Facebook page which may be of help:
https://www.facebook.com/tim.pease.98
My experience with a ‘92 that had rot on the rear end was that the rear end caps were leaking, where the upper and lower pieces meet. Water ran down and rot set in. On some older models the wood was not sealed under the ABS caps, and a broken seal let in the water. My account is detailed here, a search for “end caps” turns this up- Repairing an Older LD (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=31575.msg186159#msg186159)
Another discussion: might be buying my first LD! need some help. (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=28172.msg154880#msg154880)
Another discussion on this subject: Wood rot. Rear bumper. (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=17675.msg87800#msg87800)
Good luck! It was well worth fixing ours, we love the old thing.
I picked up my LD from the mechanic in San Leandro yesterday and drove it to the body shop/RV mechanic in San Jose. The longest drive for me yet. According to my dad, to whom I read the litany of work performed, I essentially had the entire front end re-done. No more pulling to the left, brakes felt much better, and steering not nearly as loose. Honestly, I don't know what I'm supposed to expect for steering in one of these. I assume there has to be more play than what I'm used to in my Corolla, I just don't know how much.
I drove her about 30 miles on the freeway in fairly heavy traffic. Even drove 60 mph ;P. Felt much safer than before.
Once at the body shop, I learned I need new tires. Having been somewhat waylaid with a head injury, never did check, but now know they are 10 years old. Eek! Was shown the date on the tire. Will be getting an assessment of the rot, the serious, serious rust (they said if they remove the bumper to assess situation behind bumper, they cannot put it back on for liability reasons). I've called my insurance to see if they'll cover the damage I caused the first time I drove it.
The initial assessment by the auto body/RV mechanic place was that even with the rust and rot, the vehicle is safe to drive and poses no danger of falling apart tomorrow. They said I could leave it as is and drive it for the next two years without any concern. So that's a relief. My biggest concern right now is how much my dogs hate riding in it. I did not expect that at all. I think they are getting carsick because they can't sit next to an open window. Not really sure what to do about that. I don't want to leave the sliding windows in back open because with only a screen to keep them in, it's kind of scary. Especially on the freeway. Suggestions on that welcome.
Lisa
We put a folding camp stool between the chassis seats for the dog to look out the front window. She is bigger at 85 pounds.
Lisa,
Before we took our 3 little dogs on a trip in the LD, we simply sat in the coach, while it sat in the driveway, for increasing periods of time.
Muppet, our blind Morky, was very nervous for several “driveway” adventures.
The other two dogs loved to sniff about and relax. Occasionally as I would go out to the rig, I would take them all out with me to see their new home on wheels.
On our first Full Family Adventure, it was Home as usual and the dogs all settled in for the journey.
There is a company called Bach’s Rescue Remedy that is Flower based to relieve anxiety in people. Works great to settle ones nerves. They also make a Pet Formula to work on similar issues for our K9 family members. Perhaps this could help in your case. I generally find the best prices on eBay (store prices are rather high) it is also available on Amazon.
Hope this helps and best of luck with your LD repairs. You’ve come a long way.
Kent
I assume there has to be more play than what I'm used to in my Corolla, I just don't know how much.
Will be getting an assessment of the rot, the serious, serious rust (they said if they remove the bumper to assess situation behind bumper, they cannot put it back on for liability reasons)
Your G-30 will never steering as tightly as a modern car, neither do the E450s.
The essential thing is you don't want it to wander and to steer straight without constant correction.
You will get use to it in a few hundred miles of driving.
The hardest thing for many is getting used to driving with the mirrors, make sure they are adequate to see everything on the both sides, including the ground. Adding convex mirrors can be helpful.
Rot in the rear wall can be assessed without removing the rear bumper, accessing the wall from under the rig or from the inside. Behind the bumper is the aluminum skin.
Larry
"My biggest concern right now is how much my dogs hate riding in it. "
If your dogs are crate trained you might try putting their crates on the LD couch.
My two freaked out until I crated them. I anchored the crates to the couch with the seat belts.
Much safer as well.
Langton
Before we took our 3 little dogs on a trip in the LD, we simply sat in the coach, while it sat in the driveway, for increasing periods of time.
Hi,
Thanks for the replies. I've had them hanging out in the RV while parked in my yard with no problem. They like it when it's not moving! That's why I think it's carsickness- because my larger dog starts panting alot and trying to look out the front windshield while in transit and does not want to lay down on the floor (the safest place for him to be). My girl gets carsick in the car if the window is not open, and when in the RV they both look she does in the car- glassy eyed, panting and generally not so well.
I appreciate the Rescue Remedy suggestion- I've tried that with both dogs when flying and it didn't seem to help much. I think i just need to figure out some way for them to be able to sit near a window but also be restrained in the event of a sudden stop. There are special dog harnesses made for driving, but the only one that's passed crash tests is a PITA to use and did not fit my girl well at all. I may end up having to bring a crate for at least one of them. I guess this is another thing to figure out!
Lisa
Rot in the rear wall can be assessed without removing the rear bumper, accessing the wall from under the rig or from the inside. Behind the bumper is the aluminum skin.
Hi,
They want to remove the bumper to see if/how bad the rust is behind it. The bumper is SO rusted it's like a croissant. Every shop person that's seen it has asked if she was parked at a beach or from some where with a lot of snow because they can't figure out how it got SO rusted. It is pretty intense. I know it's stayed on the West Coast, but it may be from living in Santa Cruz for years and being parked under a tree. I got a call from my insurance company and will see if anything is covered thanks to my lovely incident with the telephone pole...
LIsa
"My biggest concern right now is how much my dogs hate riding in it. "
If your dogs are crate trained you might try putting their crates on the LD couch.
My two freaked out until I crated them. I anchored the crates to the couch with the seat belts.
Much safer as well. "
Agreed. That's my thought, too. Only problem is lack of space- I have two big dogs and neither crate would fit on the sofas. I think one crate will fit in the table area with the dinette up, but then the other would either be in the hall way or not at all. And that also creates the issue of breaking down the crates every time we stop for a day. Once I get it back from the shop I'll assess my options. The last thing I want is either of my dogs flying through the windshield because some dumbass that doesn't know what a turn signal is decides to suddenly cut in front of my 10.5 ton vehicle. Since it's already happened several times in my limited driving, I know it's a common occurrence. (everyone should be required to drive one of these things as part of driver's ed. maybe then they'd get why they are endangering their own life when they cut one off.)
Lisa, the gvwr of your 22’ LD Is 10,500 *pounds*, not 10,500 tons. And, unless it’s loaded to the max (or overloaded), it’s probably under its gvwr. 😉
Hi,
Thanks for the replies. I've had them hanging out in the RV while parked in my yard with no problem. They like it when it's not moving! That's why I think it's carsickness- because my larger dog starts panting alot and trying to look out the front windshield while in transit and does not want to lay down on the floor (the safest place for him to be). My girl gets carsick in the car if the window is not open, and when in the RV they both look she does in the car- glassy eyed, panting and generally not so well.
I appreciate the Rescue Remedy suggestion- I've tried that with both dogs when flying and it didn't seem to help much. I think i just need to figure out some way for them to be able to sit near a window but also be restrained in the event of a sudden stop. There are special dog harnesses made for driving, but the only one that's passed crash tests is a PITA to use and did not fit my girl well at all. I may end up having to bring a crate for at least one of them. I guess this is another thing to figure out!
Lisa
You can leave the rear windows open by putting a dowel rod or something similar in the window track so it won't open more than is necessary for the dogs to get air.
Chris
Lisa, the gvwr of your 22’ LD Is 10,500 *pounds*, not 10,500 tons. And, unless it’s loaded to the max (or overloaded), it’s probably under its gvwr. 😉
Doh! Right.
Well, still that's pretty damn heavy!!
A possible name for your rig is #5TONS
It's pretty common to be a bit apprehensive when one starts driving a vehicle that is considerably larger and heavier than one is used to, particularly if one is driving on heavily trafficked, fast-moving freeways, navigating in tight conditions, and/or driving in unfamiliar territory or in poor weather that impairs visibility. These fears usually diminish or disappear altogether as one gains skills and confidence with practice and experience.
A few basic tips:
Know the dimensions of the RV; width, length and height are critical measurements.
Use the mirrors; make sure they're adjusted to include as much rear and side views as possible.
Learn lane placement; sight a "spot" on the lower left driver's side windshield to position the rig in the middle of its lane.
Be constantly aware of what's going on around you; anticipate the "moron moves" and be ready to maneuver quickly when they occur. And, slow down; stick in the right lane as much as possible; larger, heavier vehicles obviously take longer and more distance to stop and can be difficult to control if one is driving too fast for conditions.
Practice maneuvering the rig in a large parking lot (if you can find one that isn't full!). Use a couple traffic cones if necessary and work on backing up, making turns so the back end doesn't smack something (like the gas pump!) or the rear wheels don't run up over the curb. Practice will improve your ability to judge distances and clearances.
Watch out for hidden obstacles; if you can't *see* exactly where you're going and what could be in the way in every direction, GOAL! (Get Out And Look)
Don't be wimpy about driving in "challenging" conditions, but use common sense and don't exceed your skills and experience; if in "route doubt, check it out!"
---
I took delivery of my LD late in the afternoon of November 12, 2003; as I was getting gas, the sky turned black, the temperature dropped, and the wind and rain whipped in. I was headed for East Shore RV park to overnight; I had driving lessons scheduled with the RV School for the next two mornings. Hail hammered my new toy, visibility on the freeway was almost zero due to the pouring rain and darkness, and the power went out, leaving the freeway signs almost invisible. I still have no idea how I managed not to dump the rig into a ditch or how I found the exit and navigated pitch black streets up to the RV park; all I could think of was that I'd just spent a whole lot of $ on a brand new LD and it was a good possibility that neither of us was going to get out of the "wild ride" in one piece! This was a less-than-ideal delivery experience, and the driving instructor's comment when he arrived at the RV park the next morning (a bright, sunny, and warm morning!) was that since I had made it from Point A to Point B through the previous night's mess, I was probably OK to be running around loose in an RV. ;)
Freak Storm Leaves Los Angeles Under a Foot of Hail - The New York Times (https://www.nytimes.com/2003/11/13/national/freak-storm-leaves-los-angeles-under-a-foot-of-hail.html)
Joan’s recommendations are solid as a rock. If I may? I would like to add one word of caution.
Many of us are used to driving our “cars” and tend to be able to find the brake pedal in heavy bumper to bumper traffic by simply pivoting our gas foot over to the brake pedal without the need to “lift” and place our foot directly in line with the brake pedal.
Driving a LD makes this simple move very hazardous during rush hour stop and go traffic.
I have on two occasions found myself pressing on the gas pedal and the brake at the same time when inching along during rush hour. The result is a frightening feeling that something is about to go horribly wrong...like slamming into the car in front of me.
Never again! Now I very consciously “lift” my gas foot off the gas pedal and direct my size 12 shoe to its proper position in front of the brake pedal.
It’s a simple thing, I know, but I had to learn my lesson twice. Thinking all the time...”Why isn’t this thing stopping”? while listening to that big beautiful V10 roar when it should have been quiet as a lamb.
Lesson learned...for me.
Kent
Regarding the K-9 issues. There are those who object to considering them as qualitatively similar with human children. They are creatures for which we are responsible. If they have a problem with that, it is their problem, not ours.
1. The open window: we had a Toyota pickup with a shell and were worried about the dogs going out the window screen. We got an aluminum decorative screen door panel and cut it to fit the window. It replaced the screen and was secure so they would not go out at an inauspicious time. It does clutter the viewshed, and you can do it as a temporary or permanent solution.
2. We had a newfoundlander whose anxiety was relieved when he stuck his nose in the vent when the fan was on. It became known as the 'dog trank'. It might be worth a try.
3. Do their behaviors differ from being in the car and the LD, and, if so, how? That might help to find solutions.
Do their behaviors differ from being in the car and the LD, and, if so, how? That might help to find solutions.
Yes. In the car they are usually ok so long as the window is cracked for them. The reason I think they are carsick is because they both acted the same way when we drove Hwy 17 to Santa Cruz in my Corolla. My Malinois is generally fine in a vehicle, so when I first noticed panting and anxiety on that drive, I wasn't sure what was up. But when I realized they were both acting that way, it dawned on me the ride was making them sick. My dutch shepherd mix used to get very carsick as a puppy- glassy eyed, vomiting, the works. My Malinois gets a similar look in the RV while it's moving. And he keeps trying to get up to a window. I noticed he got up on the dinette seat and then the table to look out the window. I don't want him up there! I'll have to figure out some sort of way to keep the window by the dinette cracked without it being opened further, like the dowel thing, or to have dog-proof screen in there. And then maybe I'll put them in harnesses and buckle them into the dinette seats, which have seat belts. Not ideal, but better than having them pace and whine while I'm trying to drive.
Lisa G
I know this won't help Lisa at this juncture but perhaps it could help those with pets who are contemplating traveling with said creatures.
We have often wondered how our two cats would take to traveling in a RV. Since we presently do not have one, we have considered renting a RV to see how they handle it. What's a measly $1,000 rental fee when it comes to your fur-babies! :)
We have often wondered how our two cats would take to traveling in a RV. Since we presently do not have one, we have considered renting a RV to see how they handle it. What's a measly $1,000 rental fee when it comes to your fur-babies! :)
My brother and sister-in-law just sold their house in Oregon and bought a class B RV which they drove down here to CA, and then to the NE (Maine, I think), with their cat. They said the cat loves it. But I believe he had taken the reverse trip with them some years ago in their car, so he was used to it. When I was a kid my dad made jewelry and I spent several summers on the road with him going to various art fairs around the country. It was him, my step-mom, a dog and at least one cat. Sometimes all of us in a Dodge van, sometimes with the luxury of a small trailer. When we'd stop at campgrounds they'd let the cat(s) out to wander. The cats always came back. The one time that really sticks out in my mind is when the cats kept bringing us baby rabbits. Too small for us to eat, but I believe the cats may have tried them. Those cats did not mind traveling in the van or the trailer at all.
Lisa
We have 3 small dogs. Daisy Mae,a Shi'tzu. Roxie,a Chihuahua,and Lucky,a mountain feist. All 3 are 10yrs+. They live traveling. Daisy Mae and Roxie sleep,and Lucky is alert,watching EVERYTHING that goes on.......especially if we happen to drop a crumb of food. But they all 3 travel well.
Take those "Fur Babies"with you. They are part of the family.
We have 3 small dogs. Daisy Mae,a Shi'tzu. Roxie,a Chihuahua,and Lucky,a mountain feist. All 3 are 10yrs+. They live traveling. Daisy Mae and Roxie sleep,and Lucky is alert,watching EVERYTHING that goes on.......especially if we happen to drop a crumb of food. But they all 3 travel well.
Take those "Fur Babies"with you. They are part of the family.
Had to look uip "mountain feist". Thought you were talking about a snarly Heinz 57 raised in the mountains. What's this breed like as a pet?
Chris
We have often wondered how our two cats would take to traveling in a RV. Since we presently do not have one, we have considered renting a RV to see how they handle it. What's a measly $1,000 rental fee when it comes to your fur-babies! :)
Funny enough, I'm in the process of getting my two cats used to it right now. The oldest one (16) is the one that I thought would have the most problems but he has been very chill. My younger troublemaker however likes to meow like his life is ending anytime I start the engine. I think he'll eventually get used to it. ;D
Some cats adjust easily to rig travel; some don't. In most cases, the younger the cat is, the more likely it will learn to accept road life. I had two adult cats whom I tried to accustom to motorhome travel; crates induced screams and pitiful, moaning howls from one and a fast descent into a "catatonic" state from the other. "Stone cat" didn't budge when the rig stopped and the crate door was opened; the other deposited her opinion of the whole idea in the driver's seat as soon as the rig stopped and I vacated the seat. (I appreciated her consideration.) Deal breaker; the cat sitter got a good gig. ;)
Fortunately, all of my dogs have been good travelers!
Some cats adjust easily to rig travel; some don't. In most cases, the younger the cat is, the more likely it will learn to accept road life. I had two adult cats whom I tried to accustom to motorhome travel; crates induced screams and pitiful, moaning howls from one and a fast descent into a "catatonic" state from the other. "Stone cat" didn't budge when the rig stopped and the crate door was opened; the other deposited her opinion of the whole idea in the driver's seat as soon as the rig stopped and I vacated the seat. (I appreciated her consideration.) Deal breaker; the cat sitter got a good gig. ;)
Fortunately, all of my dogs have been good travelers!
In light of that sort of protest I think I'm getting off light with just a chorus of pitiful meows from the carrier.
We did a few car trips early on with our female (now 2 years old) and she protested at first but later would just hide somewhere in the car. I think she'll probably do ok. Not sure about our 1 year old male though. He's a character!
We did a few car trips early on with our female (now 2 years old) and she protested at first but later would just hide somewhere in the car. I think she'll probably do ok. Not sure about our 1 year old male though. He's a character!
Careful letting them run loose while driving. My first attempt driving with my crier he was loose, and the hiding spot that he eventually found was the tiny space under the drivers seat. He's a good 15lbs too, so that was a tight fit. I had to wait hours for him to come out. Now he rides in a carrier, and I've discovered the spot under the seats is a nifty place to put the square pillows that cover your vents. :)
Our boy's , Dylan and Syman, are seasoned travelers. Getting them out of the house is always a fun time. But once in Baxter they settle fast into their travel places. Syman stays in his carrier till we stop someplace, Dylan moves about here and there. Sometimes he will settle in my lap as I drive. I only toss him off in busy traffic.
Well, I just heard from my insurance- i'm glad people here and at the shop mentioned calling my insurance about the damage I did. Turns out my collision does cover it, though thanks to my head injury I made the mistake of reporting one problem and forget to mention the other, so when I called back, it got listed as two separate incidents, which means I have to pay deductible for each, which sucks. ANd i"m sure this will vastly reduce my insurance rating. Hopefully only as it pertains to my RV, though I need to verify that to ensure it does NOT affect my car rates.
All said and done, even after two hefty deductibles, my insurance is sending me about $6k for the hole I put in teh back and the damage I did to the sides. Since that is about half of what i paid for the thing, I feel it's pretty good deal.
Lisa G.
It wouldn't hurt to call the ins. co. back and explain it was a single incident and mention the concussion. The worst they can do is say no.
Thanks for the update.
joel
Had to look uip "mountain feist". Thought you were talking about a snarly Heinz 57 raised in the mountains. What's this breed like as a pet?
Chris
They are very,very good dogs. Strange lookin critters. Their feet have an inverted "V"shape,kinda like a burrowing animal,not rounded like most dogs. Short tails,for balance i guess. A head like a Beagle,short legs.
Always hungry,always alert,very alert. At home,she has to always be perched high,and look out windows. Also ,on the road,she has to be on the back of the cushions on the dinette. Super smart. She understands every word spoken. A true "Pure Heinz-57" in the truest form. And a recognized breed.
So today I spoke with the RV repair shop. The owner took it for a drive, looked at the damage I caused, and went over the structure.
He said it is in overall good shape! The worst damage is what i caused. :( But he has found no sign of structural problems or any worrisome rot. The super rusty bumper and the hole I made are the worst of it. He said more might show up when they do work, but that the inside looks great and he doesn't think there is anything to really worry about! Everyone is mystified by the rusty bumper- I''ve been asked several times if it was parked at a beach. Oddly, it's mostly all on the rear bumper. There is some corrosion near lights and stuff, but nothing like the bumper. We're getting a price on that from LD.
Yay! And the insurance is covering repair of the hole I made and other mishaps. So all in all, my LD should be in good shape after all this! I can't wait for it to be done so can finally take it for a ride!
Lisa
Which “ RV repair shop” did the assessment?
Sturken auto repair in San Jose. One of the employees has an LD and reached out to me.
I have a 1989 MP. Believe it or not, but Chevy cabs of this vintage handle much better than Ford's. My LD handles like a dream compared to the much more common Ford E350's.
You found the issue with the 4 speed transmission- it costs about 4x as much as the 3 speed to replace.
Do you still have a swamp cooler? This vintage came from the factory with them in the vent hole above the fridge.
I have noticed that water pools on my rear bumper. It has some minor surface rust in a couple of spots, and where I live, stuff just doesn't rust. I would also guess salt water.
I doubt you are looking to find new problems, but you mentioned your batteries reading "fair." This was surprising to me, as in the context you had been driving the rig AND you have solar. Did you have a lot of stuff on when the gauge read fair (you should check with nothing pulling off the battery to get a reliable reading)? I ask because if the batteries and charge systems are in good shape, your gauge should read good or charge after a drive, even a pretty short one. Was an RV spec alternator installed? They are larger than passenger vehicles to charge the batteries. Is the solar hooked up and functional? If you aren't showing the batteries topped off after driving, it may be time to replace them. The hood bews is they are not very expensive compared to the rest of your list.
You do really need to replace those tires. If you are hesitant in driving this machine now, you don't want to experience a tire coming apart at highway speeds. It is not a fun experience and it will beat the crap out of the undercarriage, ask me how I know.
Hi,
The battery reading went up after I plugged into my house electricity for a while. I don't know if that should have made a difference, as I thought the battery was charged by driving the vehicle, but WTH do I know?! When it comes to this, not much!\
Lisa G.
You have 3 separate charging systems.
1. Solar. This should charge your battery a bit every day.
2. The cab engine. The cab alternator should charge whenever the engine is running. This is the most powerful means to charge the batteries, and 1/2 hour should fully charge them.
3. When plugged in to shore power or running a generator, your power converter will charge your batteries. This will charge faster than most solar rigs, but slower than running the engine. Generally a few hours will fully charge.
If your batteries are not staying charged, you may have:
1. Faulty batteries
2. Faulty charging systems.
3. Something left on or a short.
An easy way to check the batteries is to camp out. Stock your LD has two big golf cart batteries, they are in the vented compartment by the entry door. For us, they last 2 1/2 days without recharge, that includes heavy use by the swamp cooler.
You can test suspect batteries by giving them a heavy load. With the batteries charged (and chargers not in operation), turn on everything- lights fans stereo, open a faucet to get the water pumps going. A good battery will take it in stride, a bad battery will voltage crash after a few minutes- lights will dim, fan will slow, monitor will show fair/weak charge when everything shut off.
If the battery passes, next check is charging systems. Start the cab engine. If the engine is running, your monitor should read full green "charge". If not, issue with the charging system. This could be the wrong alternator, wiring disconnected, or bad diode (the blue thing under the hood on the drivers side right up front).
Next solar. Your solar system should have a charge controller somewhere, looks like a digital thermostat. Most have an LCD display that shows what they are doing. They should show voltage or amps feeding into the battery. If your vehicle is parked with nothing on and the panels uncovered, your battery should be fully charged. This makes me suspect your solar has an issue, something is left on, or short.
Stuff you could accidentally leave on-
The nightlight. It is a small light in the kitchen near the floor. Switched on by the switches in the overcab bunk.
The furnace. The thermostat has an on/off switch on the bottom. If left on, the furnace will blow fans and try and come on whenever the temp gets low, draining the battery.
The stereo. Shouldn't draw much off, but it does draw a little.
The light switches at the entry are lighted when the switch is on. You can have the light off and the switch on.
Your cb radio could be on and turned down.
Got something plugged into a 12v plug? Unplug it.
Ok,
So not sure if i should just post as a new topic or continue on with this epic saga. I guess I'll continue this saga so that maybe someone else considering an old LD will have a reference point as to the scope of project they may be undertaking:
I got the estimate from Sturken Auto Body and Repair. They are clearly looking at how they can use the entire insurance payment I got. I would appreciate feedback on the charges. Some seem ridiculous, others I'm not sure.
Since the estimate is quite extensive, I'm going to just post it with my personal info redacted. Feel free to review and state your opinion.
The hole in the rear is going to be patched as they said the rear of the house is one big piece of metal and would be prohibitively expensive to replace, as well as unnecessary.
I will note that i just had front end work done, including some tie rod replacements. I spoke with that mechanic and he said that he replaced only the tie rods that were loose and appeared to need replacement. Sturken says that the remaining ones are old and also loose, and replacing them will tighten up the steering. The steering is much better since the front end work, but (to me), still feels like there is too much play in the wheel.
Also, Sturken guy said my battery died twice in the few weeks they've had my LD. I told him I had it sitting for a month or more without starting engine and the battery was fine. I suspect it's the rear camera that seller installed, as he told me it drains the battery when left plugged in. He installed it in some janky way- you have to pull the headlight power knob out halfway to engage the rear camera. Huh?! Yeah, not right.
Anyway, would love some feedback on this rather large estimate.
Thanks,
Lisa
edited to add: I can't figure out a way to post the estimate in the body of the post.
RVs, boats, airplanes and other toys are expensive to own, operate and maintain. You can buy an older model and put pour money into it in an attempt to get it to the point of good operating condition. Or, you can buy new(er) vehicle and suffer the costs of depreciation, maintenance and perhaps (catastrophic) failure. (See Larry W's story of a blown V-10; or, Andy's discovery of moisture.)
Here's a pure SWAG, but I bet if you compared your cost ledger - including the many months of trials and travails you've shared on this board - to Larry's, they might actually pencil out fairly close. That is, if you were to both sell your respective rigs today, the net net costs (loss) would be approximately the same on a per use basis. (Again, just a SWAG, but I think everyone gets the general point.)
The bottom line is there is simply no way of getting around the issues of expenses and cost of ownership. LD coaches leak, parts & components fail, and chassis get old. Even with a solid platform like the E450, lugging around a heavy tortoise shell inflicts a lot of stress, wear and tear.
Perhaps the only way out to mitigate some of these effects is to separate the cab from the coach, yet that introduces its own set of unique problems. (Chief of which is the act of 'towing' [yuck].) So, the real analysis comes down to cost/day over the life-span of ownership. Whether it's worth it or not is highly subjective. But there's a reason for the old saying regarding the two happiest days ...
Personally, we're in at this point for $17k (base plus 'investments'). We've had the rig for 6 years, and if I just left it on the side of the road, it would come out to approx $3k year. Definitely not a deal killer. However, what is a deal killer is the mental energy expended dealing with a high maintenance vehicle. That's why the sweet spot is getting it running, and then use it and forget about it.
JMO, but it seems to me that you have four choices: 1) Accept Sturken's estimate (and be prepared for additional charges for surprises found during the course of the work.) and OK the repairs. 2) Prioritize the most critical repairs, re-negotiate/re-work the estimate, and OK the work to be done. 3) Get a second comparison bid/estimate on the same jobs/repairs/parts (the full list or a prioritized one) from another RV service, e.g., Leale's. 4) Forget the whole "mosh pit" outlay and sell it for whatever you can get. (You probably won't go for door #4, but this choice is an option.)
Others may disagree, but "know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em" may be in play here.
YMMV, as always.
Get a second comparison bid/estimate on the same jobs/repairs/parts (the full list or a prioritized one) from another RV service, e.g., Leale's.
What is Leale's? Is that some place in the Bay Area? I've searched the entire Oakland/Berkeley area for RV body shops. The only one that comes up does not have favorable reviews at all. I also spoke with a really nice guy today at a body shop in Oakland that could only think of one place in the area that works on RVs, and that is the one with a questionable rep. He echoed what I've heard over and over- shops in the inner bay area just don't have the room/capacity to work on large vehicles. Plus, other than the homeless population, there are not many RV owners around here because, well, nobody has room to store them!
I called the mothership today, and was shocked at how much lower their hourly rate is (ALOT). But the guy talked to, whose name I already forgot, said they have no availability til January! Plus, he said they'd never just patch a hole- they'd want to replace entire rear panel, which would cost thousands of dollars. I figure it's not worth it for me to deal with that. I'll likely just go with Sturken. I'm just annoyed that they are doing their damndest to use ALL of the insurance money. Annoying. Was hoping to get some opinions on the cost breakdown, which is why I posted it.
Leale's RV (Leale's | Complete Automobile and RV Care | San Jose, CA and the Bay Area, CA (https://www.leales.com/)) is another San Jose RV repair shop.
Their address is 2070 S. 7th Street, San Jose, CA 95112.
On: Tue Jun 5, 2018 JCT Wrote:
Get a second comparison bid/estimate on the same jobs/repairs/parts (the full list or a prioritized one) from another RV service, e.g., Leale's.
What is Leale's? Is that some place in the Bay Area? I've searched the entire Oakland/Berkeley area for RV body shops. The only one that comes up does not have favorable reviews at all. I also spoke with a really nice guy today at a body shop in Oakland that could only think of one place in the area that works on RVs, and that is the one with a questionable rep. He echoed what I've heard over and over- shops in the inner bay area just don't have the room/capacity to work on large vehicles. Plus, other than the homeless population, there are not many RV owners around here because, well, nobody has room to store them! I called the mothership today, and was shocked at how much lower their hourly rate is (ALOT). But the guy talked to, whose name I already forgot, said they have no availability til January! Plus, he said they'd never just patch a hole- they'd want to replace entire rear panel, which would cost thousands of dollars. I figure it's not worth it for me to deal with that.
I'll likely just go with Sturken. I'm just annoyed that they are doing their damndest to use ALL of the insurance money. Annoying. Was hoping to get some opinions on the cost breakdown, which is why I posted it.
1991 22' LD Multi-Plan
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"Was hoping to get some opinions on the cost breakdown, which is why I posted it."
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It's very difficult to offer an opinion on the cost breakdowns without knowing their per-item part cost, their labor rate per hour, how accurate their estimates of time are, their assessment of which repairs/replacements are critical (and how they feel these should be done), and a lot of other variables. No reputable shop would offer an estimate for comparison unless they had their own techs evaluate the work to be done, the parts needed, and the time it would take to do the jobs. #4 apparently isn't a viable option for you, so unless you take the time to have another shop give an estimate on the same work, accepting the bid as is seems to be the choice.
Hi Lisa. I'm just going to address one issue you have about your rear camera. Not a 'janky way'! Pulling out the headlight knob halfway (or all the way) turns on your marker lights. The middle marker light in the back, is exactly the best spot for a camera. The wiring that LD uses for the marker lights is easily capable of powering the camera, and you are unlikely to forget to turn it off. If you are on the move, then your engine is running, providing power for the camera, and if it is night time, you probably have the marker lights on anyway. In forward motion the camera will stay on, even if you don't need it, but with the engine running it is a very small drain, and it might be handy to have it on anyway. So really that is a good way to wire up the camera. The monitor, if powered some other way, may need to be turned off manually, and should have a switch.
The solar/generator/plugged in converters don't charge your chassis battery. It just sits there dropping in charge. The engine running charges it directly, but the power used to start the engine can take a half hour or more just to equal the power used in starting. Longer if it didn't start on the first try. [The mothership installed 3000i solar controller has an output to charge the engine battery, but I don't know if LD connects it to do so, someone chime in?]
If your chassis battery is over 4 years old, you can probably use a new one anyway. They don't last nearly as long as house batteries can. If you are often plugged in, an inexpensive maintainer can keep that battery well charged. 20% off coupons are really common; Automatic Battery Float Charger (https://www.harborfreight.com/Automatic-Battery-Float-Charger-69955.html)
I'm still looking at your estimate. RonB
“I'm just annoyed that they are doing their damndest to use ALL of the insurance money.”
Lisa, I’m sure this is not the case. Repairs and mantance on our LD’s is not cheap. Your lucky you have the insurance money to cover the repairs and mantance needed. It clearly could be coming right out of YOUR pocket.
You have to pay to play.. Happy RVing 😊
So not sure if i should just post as a new topic or continue on with this epic saga.
I can't speak to the repair quotes posted, but I'd suggest you stay with the current post. It
IS a saga, as well as a travelog of real experiences with buying an older rig. There is a wealth of information in it.
Pat the dogs and this too shall pass.
see you down the road one day,
joel
Well, I think I'll just go for it and hope for the best. I'd be a lot more impatient to get it back if not for dealing with this post concussion syndrome. I'm still not really in any shape to be driving a 10.5k lbs vehicle any appreciable distance right now. And I'm enjoying doing manual labor on the decrepit garage pad in my yard that my LD was parked atop. Busting concrete with a 4lb hammer is a great workout and feels very productive. I'm going to be putting up a small temporary pool for my dogs and I. So not in a hurry to get her back at the moment. I sure hope my brain gets better soon so I can actually take this thing for a ride with the dogs.
Fortunately, all of my dogs have been good travelers!
Your present dog is great traveler when she thinks she is going someplace fun, with lots of human friends to party with.
I have never seen a dog that gets so depressed once she figures out it's time to go home.
Larry
"I have never seen a dog that gets so depressed once she figures out it's time to go home."
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True! The Princess does experience "post-party" depression; she sulks (complete with sighs, eye rolls, and a put-upon expression for added drama!) for a couple days after an outing or a trip! She's highly social with her A-list people, and works an audience to maximize the "pet me" potential. Spoiled creature, for sure. ::) ;)
Hi Lisa. I've read through your estimate. Overall it seems about the right prices. I definitely would go with new tires. I've never heard of 'Ironman' tires. If it were me I'd go with my preferred brand of Michelin. A bit more $, but the ones they want to put on may be fine for your needs. You really don't want to be on the road and have tire problems.
Next, front end suspension repairs. Bite that bullet and have it repaired ASAP. Too dangerous not to. The investment on tires could be wasted if the front end allows abnormal wear.
New house batteries. Highly sulphated means they were left uncharged for too long, and/or they are just too old. You need to replace them. Trojan brand are great batteries, but too expensive for my blood. I can't remember if you have two 6v, deep cycle or just one 12v. Interstate is a good brand. Sturken seems to think your chassis battery may be ok.
The price they quote is an upgrade to LED taillights.The quoted price is pretty steep, I did it myself, but I don't think this is in your wheelhouse. Their price for parts is about right, The labor involved may include more than just a direct swap out. They are a great improvement both in looks, safety, and reliability. A waste of time to repair back to the old style lights.
I'm sure that the repair place would like to fix many more things, but they have already picked the more important things that really need it first. That's what they do, and good repairmen really hate to see vehicles go out of the shop, that still need more work. They also realize that money does limit what can be done at any one time. They seem to have picked good things to prioritize, and they seem to know what they are doing. RonB
They seem to have picked good things to prioritize, and they seem to know what they are doing. RonB
Wow! Thank you for taking the time to look at the estimate and provide such a thorough review. I truly appreciate it. I am going to call them today to give them the go ahead for most of it, though I will ask about the battery and tire brands.
Thanks!