We should have ordered a new LD five years ago. We would have escaped the windows fogging and the paint flaking off.
I tried an etching compound on the AL frames and a supposedly quality paint. It came right back off and more paint is flaking off.
The windows are painted with PPG Macroflex with is applied by the extruders that supply Hehr. Macroflex is not available at the retail level.
If anyone else had had this problem and has solved it, I am all ears to learn how.
I suppose in a few more years all the paint will be gone and it will be shiny AL.
We should have ordered a new LD five years ago. We would have escaped the windows fogging and the paint flaking off.
I tried an etching compound on the AL frames and a supposedly quality paint. It came right back off and more paint is flaking off.
The windows are painted with PPG Macroflex with is applied by the extruders that supply Hehr. Macroflex is not available at the retail level.
If anyone else had had this problem and has solved it, I am all ears to learn how.
I suppose in a few more years all the paint will be gone and it will be shiny AL.
Better get a new one while you can, Don. Hard telling how much long LD will stay in biz. I hope for many more years.
Chris
Still seeking any advice on this.
Don,
I can't comment on the Lazy Daze window frames, but we have aluminum window frames on our tug and the black paint has worn so thin that it looks lousy and has gotten corroded from the seawater. The ocean is hard on all aluminum parts, regardless of the covering. Other owners have had good result painting with Rustoleum paint from a can that has been thinned out so that it can be carefully painted on.
I'm not looking forward to that job, so I'll live with the thin and flaking paint. Good luck on yours.
Harold
Hi Don. If you are talking bare aluminum, then you need to start with a primer made specifically for aluminum. Nothing else will stick. As far as small scuffs, black Rustoleum spray paint, (satin gloss) has worked well for me so far. For large scale repairs, after the proper aluminum primer, I would go with a black epoxy paint. Several coats. A little more weather and abrasion resistant.
SELF ETCH PRIME-GRN 15.5z (http://www.tcpglobal.com/SEM-39693_5.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgNaW_e_h1wIVQmp-Ch3bLwXoEAQYASABEgIZ3PD_BwE#.Wh2nyUqnFPY)
Just a random paint from the internet. RonB
Hi Don. If you are talking bare aluminum, then you need to start with a primer made specifically for aluminum. Nothing else will stick. As far as small scuffs, black Rustoleum spray paint, (satin gloss) has worked well for me so far. For large scale repairs, after the proper aluminum primer, I would go with a black epoxy paint. Several coats. A little more weather and abrasion resistant.
SELF ETCH PRIME-GRN 15.5z (http://www.tcpglobal.com/SEM-39693_5.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgNaW_e_h1wIVQmp-Ch3bLwXoEAQYASABEgIZ3PD_BwE#.Wh2nyUqnFPY)
Just a random paint from the internet. RonB
It's bare where the paint has flaked off. Areas are from fingernail to index finger size.
Have you a specific etcher in mind? The one I used did nothing.
Spray paint is out. No plans to remove the windows.
Used Rustoleum black paint, but not epoxy.
Googled epoxy for metal and got one hit.
Black DTM Epoxy Prime/Sealr-Kt 2.1 VOC Makes 1+1/2 quarts (http://www.tcpglobal.com/KUS-KIT-KEP506-QT_2.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInb6awq7i1wIVQrXACh0WHwR8EAQYASABEgJtmfD_BwE)
Hi Don. I sent a link for spray on etcher/primer in my last post. Taking the window frame out is a lot of work. I would spray the frame in situ. Just a lot of masking. Brush work doesn't work for me. RonB
Have you looked at the various aluminum blackening compounds? There are some touch-up ones out there. Are the originals painted or anodized?
Chip
Have you looked at the various aluminum blackening compounds? There are some touch-up ones out there. Are the originals painted or anodized?
Chip
I have never heard of aluminum blackening compounds. Is this what you mean
Amazon.com : BW Casey Aluminum Black Touch-Up 3 oz : Hunting Cleaning And... (https://goo.gl/QZAGgU)
I suppose anodized. Same as yours. I know nothing about coating metal.
@Ron, no rattle cans inside. No telling where the overspray cloud would land.
Would apply with foam or q-tip
My cheap and dirty fix when 1990 Multi-plan Blue was broken into over Thanksgiving some years back... I found a sharpie about the same color as the aluminum, and dotted it on. The burglers scratched the aluminum using a prybar on the window frame. It still looks good today!
Glad we didn't waste our time and money on an etching compound since Don had no luck with that. Have tried Rustoleum, Testors, Sharpie permanent marker, and even black nail polish. Best results so far have been with a black Sharpie oil paint pen. Not perfect but better than the shiny aluminum where the paint is coming off.
Not long ago we were in a major dust storm and forgot to put blue painter's tape outside over the weep holes. Not wanting to go outside, and watching the dirt pile up in the windows, we taped the inside, which much to our surprise pulled off big chunks of paint when it was removed. The Sharpie paint pen did a pretty good job on those spots. Time will tell if it stays on.
Gayle
Sharpie paint pens. Never even considered it.
I'll give it a try since I am unwilling to start brush painting with Rustoleum. What is the worst thing that could happen?
I've used standard Sharpie markers on cars, and it looked fine from a few feet back. Is a 'Sharpie oil paint pen' a different thing?
Don, the link you posted is the kind of product I was referencing. Haven't used it on anything camper-related, though.
The frames look anodized on the outside to me. But if it peels off when provoked, they're not. Didn't see any damage areas on mine to inspect...
Chip
I tried a Sharpie oil-based pen today. It covers. It's a bit more glossy than the original paint. Looks OK on small chipped spots. Shows up on larger areas. I would suggest it for small areas. It remains to be seen how it hold to up abrasion and condensation.
Thanks, Jim C
I tried a Sharpie to blacken in the E-450 badges on either side of the hood. Worked for about two days then came off. Those are plastic, though, and I didn’t do anything to prep. I need to look for replacements I guess. — Jon
The sharpie did not work. It can be easily rubbed off with your finger.
Not game to use a rattle can inside.
Going try BW Casey Aluminum Black Touch-Up (https://www.amazon.com/BW-Casey-Aluminum-Black-Touch-Up/dp/B002JCW2CG/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_mrai_2_dp?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002JCW2CG&pd_rd_r=SYV5QX7STDBXQ8Y0HTTJ&pd_rd_w=CLyLB&pd_rd_wg=xCGgX) from Amazon. Don't have my hopes up.
Should have ordered a new LD 5 years back.
Should have ordered a new LD 5 years back.
What's stopping you from doing so now?
Larry
Dang! I got one of those oil based sharpies to use after you posted about them but hadn't tried them yet. :(
Let us know how the aluminum touch up works
Dang! I got one of those oil based sharpies to use after you posted about them but hadn't tried them yet. :(
Let us know how the aluminum touch up works
The oil based Sharpie has worked better than anything else we have tried but still wears off. I'm thinking of ordering the paint Don found.
jim
You can get small tubes of acrylic paints at hobby stores. A selection, or just single colors. With a cheap set of brushes, say about 1/4" wide you can hand paint your window frames. It is water cleanup, but pretty resistant once it dries. I used a selection over plastic wood to fill numerous holes in the wood (vinyl) interior left from an indiscriminate hole drilling previous owner on a refurbish project I was working on. Afterwards a canvas and easel, and you might try painting some landscapes. RonB
Mars Black 250mL Liquitex Basics Acrylic Color | Hobby Lobby | 257196 (https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Painting-Supplies/Acrylic-Painting/Mars-Black-250mL-Liquitex-Basics-Acrylic-Color/p/10586)
@LarryC We have not ordered a new one for two reasons.
1) We don't think we have that many years that we will be able to travel.
2) I don't have the enthusiasm to make all the mods all over again.
Of course, if new Red MB was available, we might be all over it.
I will post on the results of the paint referenced earlier.
If we had bought a new one five years back, we would have avoided fogged window and the flaking paint. Or we could have had LD replace the five fogged windows for about $15,000. And another 15 to paint it.
This is a different community than it was in 2007. I recall one guy who had his LD shipped from the east coast to the Mothership for repairs by FedEx.
@LarryC
We have not ordered a new one for two reasons.
1) We don't think we have that many years that we will be able to travel.
2) I don't have the enthusiasm to make all the mods all over again.
Of course, if new Red MB was available, we might be all over it.
I will post on the results of the paint referenced earlier.
If we had bought a new one five years back, we would have avoided fogged window and the flaking paint. Or we could have had LD replace the five fogged windows for about $15,000. And another 15 to paint it.
This is a different community than it was in 2007. I recall one guy who had his LD shipped from the east coast to the Mothership for repairs by FedEx.
Redoing all the mods was the 1st thing I thought about when buying new was mentioned. And Don, you have done a bunch. Of course, Larry puts us all to shame. ;)
Chris
"Redoing all the mods was the 1st thing I thought about when buying new was mentioned."
---
That consideration was #2 on my list; #1 was the 'pull date' on my abilities to make best use of a new LD! ;)
I have never heard of aluminum blackening compounds. Is this what you mean
Amazon.com : BW Casey Aluminum Black Touch-Up 3 oz : Hunting Cleaning And... (https://goo.gl/QZAGgU)
For anyone following this thread, this does not work. It will tint bright aluminum to a med shade of gray. But's that's it.
For anyone following this thread, this does not work. It will tint bright aluminum to a med shade of gray. But's that's it.
Thanks for the follow up report, Don.
Chris