I was reviewing this thread and wondered if there are any new suggestions for multimeters?
good, basic multimeter recommendation? (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=25390.msg135995#msg135995)
I spoke with a tech guy at Progressive Industries today about my EMS that I have mentioned in another thread and his first question was what brand of multimeter was I using. In my case, I can't get the cheap one I have to read voltage from an AC outlet.
I made no headway with the tech. Until I get a reliable meter and open the case on the EMS we can't get started to diagnose the problem.
Jim
As a former Electronic Tech my personal preference would be Fluke!
I've owned a Fluke #77 for years.
The link will take you to an Amazon page whereon is listed a Model 115, which should do everything you need done. :)
Fluke 115 Compact True-RMS Digital Multimeter - - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter/dp/B000OCFFMW)
Steve I agree about Fluke. I have an 87 and 179 from when I used to work. Great devices and have only had to change the batteries. And the fuses occasionally when I forgot to switch. I also have a couple cheaper meters and a couple clamp-on ammeters/multimeters that I only paid about $24 for, MasTech is the brand I think. They work fine and compared to the Flukes they are accurate enough for measuring DC and AC voltages in the LD. Don't know about the HF cheapies. I use my multimeters so frequently that I don't mind paying more.
Fluke. 87 here.
Thanks for the suggestions. I was looking at the Fluke 115 but I don't know if that is simply overkill for my needs and abilities. I really need to take some sort of course in using one.
I mostly use the really cheap one I have had for years testing batteries. As I mentioned in my other post today I was trying to check voltage at outlets and couldn't get a reading.
Mine's an ancient Fluke 73III, in an armored case. It has taken a beating in life and still works.
I assume most of us who own Flukes used them in our professional lives.
They are durable and accurate devices and more than what you need and probably want to spend
For around the RV use, a multimeter in the $25-40 range is more appropriate .
Larry
One more for Fluke. My old one stays at home and always soldiers on, year after year.
$25 model from Home Depot lives in the Lazy Daze and seems to work just fine. When it gets damaged, or soaked, (or .....) I won't be as angry as if I would be if I broke the Fluke. Same for the boats. A couple of years and the salt air corrodes important inside parts and I toss them and get another. It is good enough...
Harold
As with others, my Fluke 77 stays at home - a $25 Sears models rides shotgun. However, when the LD is in the driveway, it is usually the Fluke I get out for troubleshooting. It reads faster, has a better display, rated more accurate, and is as rugged as a tank.
However, were I to own or recommend just one reliable meter for home or on the road, it would be a Fluke.
My Multimeter is Extech EX330 from Amazon for $53.99. I am not a professional but this suits my purposes. It was recommended to me by the tech at Northside Service Co when tracing problems on my NuTone intercom system in my house. I highly recommend it. It is also AutoRanging
Kevin
this (https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498235141&sr=8-3&keywords=multimeter) is a very good "basic" meter for leaving in the RV... i have this, and for basic tasks, it matches my fluke measured values better than any cheap meter i've used.
For motorhomes, the best meter I've used measures AC/DC voltages with probes (the usual way) and AC/DC currents by CLAMPING around the cable - no need to open a connection and put the meter in series with the circuit. I have two, a $150 unit bought 15 years ago, and a $60 Sears unit bought 3 years ago. They have comparable function and accuracy. The Sears unit:
Sears.com (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=CJGoirqW1dQCFRCbfgodMUYB_g&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPmCuLqW1dQCFU14YgodirgF3g)
The clamping feature is invaluable when dealing with batteries (range 40A to 400A), letting you check DC currents output from solar panels and chargers, current draws by inverters, check the engine battery charging, even lighting current to trailers. Don't settle for a standard digital voltmeter/ammeter when you can a clamp style current meter (with all the volt and other functions) for only $60!
Thanks all. I didn't know it but now I need a $180 multimeter. Actually a clamp style is something I've wanted for a while. I've repaired countless electronics with my trusty Goldstar DM311 but it has very limited features compared to higher end models.
I do keep a Harbor Freight freebie multimeter in the LD. It's fine for many things but when it runs low on battery it doesn't tell you and it won't give a proper reading.
I too have to agree that Fluke is the best for the past life I had led. Now that it finally gave up after some 30 years of use I have found I don't need to spend the 500$ I did back in the 80s. I use a wavetech meterman
5xp
Wavetek Meterman 5XP Manual Multimeter Test your electrical connections... (https://www.crutchfield.com/S-yuGAK3EcwKR/p_1205XP/Wavetek-Meterman-5XP-Manual-Multimeter.html)
40$ and will do everything the coach would need without a qualm.
Regarding classes. Gave one at Ladeze last year. Ya missed out! 😜
Lydia
Lydia, that Wavetek shows as "no longer available" on Crutchfield; I did find it on Amazon and a couple of other sites. Maybe you might want to "probe" (sorry; can't help myself) to check if a repeat session at Ladeze of "how to use a multimeter" would be a possibility? Since I'm a "volt dolt", I would certainly attend! ;)
Maybe you might want to "probe" (sorry; can't help myself) to check if a repeat session at Ladeze of "how to use a multimeter" would be a possibility? Since I'm a "volt dolt", I would certainly attend! ;)
I will have to arrange for a private lesson since I am banned from Ladeze.
Jim
Sorry about the dead end link. 'Twas late. And was too happy to notice but suprised crutch field had same at all.
I don't know if a repeat of the tussle that went on last year is I order but perhaps. Haven't Ben asked nor have I seen a agenda yet so figured something else may have been preplanned.
As I understand it coconut bras and grass skirts are still accepted. However our wagon mistress may disagree. 😆 If you did do so I don't think I could concentrate on a lesson. I'd be laughing too hard.
I will have to arrange for a private lesson since I am banned from Ladeze.
In the past, I have been invited to show up and give classes.
The catch was I had to wear a dress and leave immediately afterwards.
Didn't accept the offer.
"The catch was I had to wear a dress...."
---
You would have been the only one in that outfit! ;)
The catch was I had to wear a dress
Oh I could say so many things with that line. Best one is. From an old cult film. But. I won't I won't. I promise.
Lyd
As Eric mentioned above, clamp-on current measurements are the best thing since sliced bread.
One must choose carefully, as only about 30% of the meters with clamps will actually measure DC current with the clamp. You have to read the specs carefully, and/or look for key words like Hall Effect, or 'clamp-on DC current measurement' specifically. Otherwise, you'll get one of the more common, and cheaper, AC-clamp-on-only units.
Chip
I found this clamp-on multimeter among several others on an Amazon page; from the specs/information available on the product description, what opinions/comments can experienced multimeter users offer?
Digital Clamp Meter, LIUMY Auto-Ranging AC/DC Clamp Multimeter with NCV,... (https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Capacitance-Connections-Temperature/dp/B06XJ1YHXS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1499093741&sr=8-10&keywords=clamp+multimeter)
Looks like a nice, well-featured model, from the specs. I use this:
7 Function Clamp-On Digital Multimeter (https://www.harborfreight.com/clamp-on-digital-multimeter-95683.html)
not autoranging, but much cheaper and it has fulfilled my needs.
Steve
Hi Joan. Looks like a versatile meter for the price. A bit large because of the clamps. I've burned out many a fuse because of using the internal shunt for current measurements. Maybe the clamp on feature would be ok, but I still prefer regular leads. The back light is good, the auto off is good. I really like the autoranging. Using cheap, easily available batteries is good. many times when you need it worst, it has been awhile and the batteries are dead (again...). It looks like I need to get better at mental C to F conversions, this meter doesn't mention Fahrenheit. Frequency, diode, capacitance measurement capability, not very useful, but good to have on the very rare instances you might need it. I remember having a DMM that would measure the beta of a transistor. Never used that feature, and I knew what it was. The carrying case is good to keep all of the parts together. I have a little pocket tester to detect voltages, and it is useful when I can find it, so this meter does that also. Data hold is useful. Continuity test makes noise when connected, good for verifying wiring. RonB
Thank you, Ron and Steve! Very helpful! :D
Ron, from this review (with photos), it looks like this meter has "regular leads" in addition to the clamp; am I understanding "regular leads" correctly?
Digital Clamp Meter, LIUMY Auto-Ranging AC/DC Clamp Multimeter with NCV,... (https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Capacitance-Connections-Temperature/dp/B06XJ1YHXS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&tag=scmcldo-20#Ask)
The test leads will not be for current measurement. The only ranges are 60A and 600A, so without checking the manual you can be certain the test leads are for the non-current ranges only. Current measurement accuracy is low, but typical for clamp-on meters. For up to 10A, its hard to beat a good standard multimeter.
Steve
Joan
Clamp measurements involve isolating a single conductor in a balanced circuit. For example the hot side of a circuit breaker in a breaker box. Not all clamps measure both AC and DC. If they do it usually involves some reinterpretation of the display. The manual will be crucial for this.
In general I don't see loads of use for a clamp meter in an RV power center like ours. The battery compartments perhaps but the battery minders tell you just as much if you have one.
We use clamp meters at work with special 1' hand made extension cords that allow the clamp to select any of the three conductors of a typical grounded power cord.
That said you have found A compact relatively decent meter packing more than you will likely use. (Capacitance and frequency). But you sure could do worse.
Lydia
Yes, the regular leads are there, and you can use them. You probably can't remove the clamps, so they are always in the way. The NCV (non contact voltage) detector is probably on the end of the clamp arms also. Don't quote me on this, but I seem to remember, that the accuracy of the clamp readings was really dependent on being in the center of the enclosed area. RonB
Thank you all for the comments and instruction; I have a lot to learn about "wires", and appreciate the guidance! 🤗
this (https://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-B4Q094-UT210E-Current-Capacitance/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499982272&sr=8-1&keywords=uni-t+ut210e) clamp meter has a 2a current range and is good for 2% at that range, not bad for $30 and a mini meter....
there is also a 210D for about the same price that does frequency (nice for genny/carb tuning), but only goes down to a 20A current range....