Hopping down the rabbit hole of replacing the Shurflo pump. What's in there now is 2088-422-444, which is apparently obsolete. Reading previous threads show that the 5.7 and the Extreme?? are to be avoided, but they were several years old. The Companion's 4 postings are largely the same thing. Current pump has specs of 7A current consumption, 2 GPM, and 45 PSI. Not fulltiming, just weekend use for two adults. Quiet is good, but not really a problem now.
Seems Shurflo 4008-101-E65 at $75-$100 seems popular and reasonably-priced...
7.5A, 3GPM, 55 PSI
Thanks, and thoughts?
Chip
PS, I may be missing the way to search for posts on a topic (shurflo) but limit results just to 2016 and 2017, for more current comments.
Chip,
I recently purchased a back up Shurflo for our 2015 RB. Speaking with the Shurflo tech on the phone he said the 4028-100-E54 was a direct plug and play for our current pump. About $95 on Amazon.
Here are some pics including the existing pump still in full operation and the new replacement pump.
Kent
http://shurflo.com/images/files/Pump_Conversion_Chart/RV-Pump-Conversion-Chart.pdf
Thanks, folks. That's the cross-reference I used for the number, but after reading all the past issues for the 5.7 and Extreme, I'm also interested in how the Revolution series pumps are holding up.
Chip
" I'm also interested in how the Revolution series pumps are holding up."
I installed a Revolution just short of a year ago. So far I'm liking it's performance. Pressure in my shower is the best I've ever had.
Initially I had to adjust the 'pressure control' to avoid surging and I may have over done it a bit. Now, on very rare occasions, it wants to continue running after being turned off. A couple of on/off sequences takes care of that. Eventually I may have to go back and tweak it just a smidgen. ::)
Chip, I may have one of the first "Revolutions" that was put into use and it is still working fine.
I got it directly from Shurflo (Pentair Corp.) after meeting the rep at an FMCA rendezvous in Bowling Green, Ohio. I asked him if he was aware of all the bad things being posted on the internet about their Extreme series pumps. He had a computer at their display and I guided him to the old Yahoo group. His jaw dropped when he saw all the problems being posted. I had gone through 2 of the Extremes already and was about to replace another, still under warranty.
He gave me his card and he sent me a pump for evaluation. I sent them my pump and they ended up sending me a replacement for the Sensor Extreme too. Along with the Sensor pump, they did send a back flow prevention valve too. I fully expected to use that but the Revolution has worked so well that the brand new, in the box Sensor Extreme has been riding with me as a spare.
In short, we like the Revolution and would not hesitate to buy one if needed.
Steve K
Chip, my Revolution, replacing the Extreme 5.7, has been in place for years with no issues.
Ken F in WY
Slightly off topic, but I had a ShurFlo pump fail in our dive boat. Getting it out was a PITA (actually removing any of the pumps in a tight, hot engine compartment is a PITA), so I took it apart and determined that the pressure sensor was the part that gave out. I called their customer service and the helpful person at the other end apologized for the problem and sent me a new pressure sensor for the pump, plus several pieces so I could re-assemble it with new pieces. It has worked fine ever since and I am a happy ShurFlo customer.
Just sayin...
HD
The 4008 pumps are the best thing since the old school Whisper Kings.
I have replaced too many variable speed pumps. I still the last 5.7, returned and replaced under warranty, sitting in the garage. I wouldn't waste my time installing it.
Instead, a 4008 was installed, many years ago. I have not seen one fail yet.
It's too bad the variable speed pumps were such junk. I liked how quiet they are at low flow rates.
Larry
So far been impressed with the Flojet 2.9 gpm pump that was installed a couple months ago. It's quiet and was a direct bolt in replacement. Flojet 2.9 GPM Water Pump - Xylem 03526144A - Fresh Water Pumps - Camping World (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/flojet-2-9-gpm-water-pump/28997)
Just a datapoint but we are still using the original 5.7 in a 2006RB. The only reason I can give for it's longevity is we never connect to city water pressure. When it fails we have another to replace it with.
Our first two Extreme 5.7's went bad after a year each. The present one has lasted 11 years. The last two years have seen it a bit balky at low flows wherein it cycles a few times before giving an even flow. I understand that there may be a way to adjust a nut on the front (facing away from the opening) to help with this. However, I feel so fortunate that it still works that I don't want to tempt fate and touch it.
We only bought a backup last year after the cycling started. It's not the 4008 but the one that is supposed to be a match for the 5.7 .... 4048?! Something like that.
Many years ago, when my Extreme 5.7 had failed for the second time, I had a discussion with Vince at the Factory. He told me the first three years of 5.7 pumps were good, but, at that point, the manufacture was shifted to China. The resulting pumps were no longer reliable and the LD factory was anticipating a replacement model, which turned out to be the Revolution later that year.
I have no idea if that is in fact the case, but it is a very brief summary, as I remember it, of our conversation.
Ken F in WY
Our 2009 Evolution water pump stopped pumping, then started again but would not quit running. I suspected something was amiss with the pressure switch. I replaced it with the spare we carry. A friend of ours wanted to take it apart and he did while we were running errands. He found some gunk around the pressure switch and it's working again. So we still have a spare.
Finally, some good news
This topic is very timely, because I've been muddling over the de-winterizing process & some other water-system questions. The LD is in her nest out at the farm, so I don't know what model I have (but I believe it is a Shurflo that was replaced last year at KS RV in Chanute).
At the time the pump was replaced, they told me the only thing they had on the shelf that would fit & work (& it has) "didn't have a strainer basket." As I've thought about this, & remembering that the pump in my lawn pond had a filter to keep crud out of the pump, I'm wondering if I should get a new pump that has a strainer basket & just keep this one as a back-up? However, I've also been reading about folks who have installed filtration systems--either just a single cartridge on the filler hose, or a multi-canister system that is between their fresh tank & pump (those discussions talked about not only sediment, but water-softening to prevent/reduce crud clogging the lines/etc.), so I'd certainly appreciate any thoughts on that. I was thinking I could fill the fresh tank from the well at the farm for showers/toilet, because I can take drinking/cooking water from town in my dad's gallon farm thermos & fill up on the road as needed, but was a bit leery about unfiltered sediment/etc. from the well going through the pump (or even city/campgound water in unknown places for that matter).
RE: de-winterizing--I'm not sure if I did the blow-out properly when winterizing...it seemed like I got all the water blown out from all the faucets/toilet/sprayer/showerhead/waterheater/etc., but it felt like some air was leaking around the pump as I ran the compressor. So my question is: does that portend water leaking? I've not filled/used the system yet this year, as Ive just stayed out at the farm a few times & not yet taken any trips.
Thx for any thoughts on whether replacing the pump without a filter basket should be on the to-do list, filter systems, and potential leaks (if air was leaking during the winterinzing process).
Lynne
Lynne
"didn't have a strainer basket."
The 'strainer basket' is not integral to the pump but rather a separate item that is placed in the water line ahead of the pump so that sediment does not get to the pump. It can be a simple matter to cut the water line in the appropriate location and insert the strainer using hose clamps. Of course every water system can be different and the above may not apply to all. ::)
"However, I've also been reading about folks who have installed filtration systems--either just a single cartridge on the filler hose, or a multi-canister system that is between their fresh tank & pump (those discussions talked about not only sediment, but water-softening to prevent/reduce crud clogging the lines/etc.), so I'd certainly appreciate any thoughts on that. I was thinking I could fill the fresh tank from the well at the farm for showers/toilet, because I can take drinking/cooking water from town in my dad's gallon farm thermos & fill up on the road as needed, but was a bit leery about unfiltered sediment/etc. from the well going through the pump (or even city/campgound water in unknown places for that matter)."
This is EXACTLY what we do. We have a fairly elaborate water softener/filtration unit that uses a charcoal filter and a fiber-type filter, each within its own canister, plus the softener tank itself.
Portable Double Standard Water Softener & Conditioner - On the Go OTG3-DSOFT... (http://tinyurl.com/yd4o3t5h)
We fill up the RV tank - it takes about an hour - and use distilled water for drinking/cooking. We either buy or distill our own water for this purpose, depending on length of time to be on a trip.
It sounds like a lot of trouble, but, for us, we thought it was worth it to not have the VERY hard, caliche-laden water around here running through our pipes, even if we had no intention of drinking it. What does this mean for inconvenience? Well, if we are careful, that 58-gallon fill up will last us a week. BUT - we rarely shower in the rig, mostly utilizing campground facilities for this purpose. I am careful, but not fanatic, with water use, and do almost 100% of meals in the rig from scratch. I know I could be more careful with water use, but don't go crazy trying to squeeze the most out of every drop available.
If we are staying in a campground, there is basically no inconvenience whatsoever. It just takes longer to fill the tank, and you need to set a timer, or park yourself by the inlet with a book/tablet/conversation, to keep an eye on it.
If you are boondocking and going into campgrounds ONLY to dump and take on fresh water . . . well, that process would be between you and the owner. Maybe they would rent you a site for a couple of hours for only slightly more than their usual charge for a regular dump/fill encounter.
But best of all, why not just check into into a campground properly once a week (or whatever time interval is needed) and take advantage of constant electricity for device charging, bulk cooking, and whatever else a campground provides for your particular style of RV'ing.?
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Thx, Steve, for the reply.
So, rather than doing the work to cut the water line/install strainer basket with hose clamps (if that would even work in my location), an external filter that I could set up between the hose off the well & the clean hose that goes into the fresh tank might be a simpler solution?
Any thoughts about the water softener to reduce/prevent crud that some people have reported seems to accumulate in the water lines like cholesterol/atherosclerosis in the veins? Also, re: de-winterizing & what I thought seemed like airleaks (to my decidedly non-mechanical self last fall)--do I just fill/pressurize the fresh tank & look for leaks around the pump where I felt air hissing (or maybe it's just all in my head & I'm overthinking possible disasters)?
Thx--
Lynne
Thx, Judie, for the reply & link.
That seemed like the way I thought I should go, but I do appreciate the benefit of experience. However, this only shows the water softener. Do you have a separate unit that filters sediment (you mentioned the caliche in your area & I remember putting a filter on the waterline into a house from the well when I lived in on a different farm 40 years ago, because I saw the crud that settled to the bottom of a jug of water right out of the tap).
Lynne
Water quality and safety varies. Although I don't drink or cook with the water from the onboard tank (rarely, if ever, hook up to a campground/RV park water supply), I use an inline filter when filling the tank; this is the filter that I've used for years with satisfactory results: Omnipure K5567BB . The filter comes with or without brass hose fittings; I'm still using the original fittings. The filter specs are available on its vendor sites; a search will bring these up.
In the past, I've dealt with the RV Water Filter Store; excellent customer service and good products. But, the original owners retired last year and sold the business. Just an FYI, just reporting my experience so far: I called the business this morning (no 800 number and only a form for contact) and am waiting for a call back. The website has been redesigned and is less "intuitive" to use than the previous site; the filter mentioned above took a while to locate. When I tried to order the filter, the "Buy Now" button was inactive.
At present, I'm reserving the decision to change vendors; if my call is not returned, the choice is clear.
Obviously, there are other inline filters available, "whole house" filter systems, under-the-sink systems, etc.; the idea is to filter the water at the supply point to keep as much assorted "crud" out of the tank, the lines, and the pump as possible. (Also, obviously, don't fill the tank or hook up to water that's unsafe or of unknown quality.)
YMMV, of course.
"Thx, Judie, for the reply & link.
That seemed like the way I thought I should go, but I do appreciate the benefit of experience. However, this only shows the water softener. Do you have a separate unit that filters sediment (you mentioned the caliche in your area & I remember putting a filter on the waterline into a house from the well when I lived in on a different farm 40 years ago, because I saw the crud that settled to the bottom of a jug of water right out of the tap)."
Somewhere in my PICTURES file there is one of our set up. I will look for it - later.
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Joyce, Judie, & Steve--
Thx so much for knowledge, experience, & suggestions...now I'm on the hunt for the equipment.
Lynne
It's easy to use an external filter, on the filler hose. Installing a filter on the water tank fill line is not practical.
Your water pump should have a washable screen filter on the input side.
Something like this.
Amazon.com : SHURflow RV MARINE Water Pump Inline Stainer Filter 255-213 /... (https://www.amazon.com/SHURflow-MARINE-Stainer-255-213-255-313/dp/B01N17DVBF?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01N17DVBF)
To insure safe drinking water, we have an Omnipure filter, with its own faucet, mounted next to the kitchen sink's faucet.
Omnipure Q-series filter, disp faucet, 2 QCR cartridges: RV Water Filter Store (https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/C3202.htm)
Larry
Thx, Larry...& also for the link. I'll take a screen shot for the next time I go to the farm so I can compare you're info to what I've got.
To paraphrase Yakov Smirnoff, "I LOVE this [site]!"
Lynne
Here is a picture of our water softener set up.
filters and softener ready to use.jpg (80.99 KB)
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Here is a picture of our water softener set up.
filters and softener ready to use.jpg (80.99 KB)
Virtual hugs,
Thx, so much, Judie. So, if I see this correctly, your external source goes into the clear/sediment filter---> the opaque white canister filter--->the water softener and then out into you fresh tank? That looks like exactly what I need to do.
Thx, again-- Lynne
Judie
The one thing about carbon filters is they remove chlorine. Wouldn't you want that in your tank at least every now and then to keep the tank sanitized? I would think you want a sediment filter at the tank inlet and then filter the drinking water at the tap.
In our 8+ years on the road, we use the tank all the time even in the rare instances when we did hook up, we don't anymore.
We use a water softener when the water is hard and use test strips to determine that. We have a water filter at the kitchen sink.
Jim
Jim said, "The one thing about carbon filters is they remove chlorine. Wouldn't you want that in your tank at least every now and then to keep the tank sanitized? I would think you want a sediment filter at the tank inlet and then filter the drinking water at the tap."
Yeah, chlorine is good for killing stuff, though I've seen some chlorinated water get green & slimy if it sits long enough. My mom had typhoid fever when I was a pre-schooler (about '58-'59) & I grew up with hearing parents/grandparents talk about the family DR telling them to dump Clorox in the well or cistern periodically (especially after a rain); we moved to town when I started school, so I grew up with city water...when I married my kids' father & moved back to the farm after grad school I dumped Clorox in the well & he had a fit about me trying to poison him & his hogs (no fatalities occurred). I figured if I used the well water for showers/toilet/washing dishes I'd just add Clorox to the fresh tank as needed.
Lynne
Lynne
As you can see from the responses you have received there is more than one way to skin a cat!
It all boils down to what you are comfortable with. For me, if a water source tastes okay I'll use it, particularly if it comes from a municipal source (Flint MI excepted). I use both the fresh water storage tank and the city water connection, depending how ambitious I feel at the time. Many times I'll utilize the water from my tank rather than a city connection even though it might be available. When filling my tank I use a carbon filter in the line from whatever the source.
During the recent exchange of my water pump I decided to check the in-line filter/strainer as it had never before been cleaned. To my surprise there was hardly enough sediment from the 12 years of use to even make it worth while to open the filter. ::)
I seldom travel with a completely full tank, preferring rather to save the weight of a ½ tank.
During the recent exchange of my water pump I decided to check the in-line filter/strainer as it had never before been cleaned. To my surprise there was hardly enough sediment from the 12 years of use to even make it worth while to open the filter. ::)
I seldom travel with a completely full tank, preferring rather to save the weight of a ½ tank.
95% of the time, we fill from our home city water or other city water supplies and rarely using a filter.
I dropped a remote camera into our fresh water tank, a couple of years ago, and found little sediment and no green stuff.
After arriving at a few campgrounds, where water was supposed to be available and wasn't, we never travel without a full tank.
Living in earthquake country, filling the tank is one of the first things things I do when we get home.
One nice thing about a short 23.5' E450 is the near impossibility of overloading it.
Larry
"After arriving at a few campgrounds, where water was supposed to be available and wasn't, we never travel without a full tank.
Living in earthquake country, filling the tank is one of the first things things I do when we get home."
----
Ditto. "Escape pod" reasons for keeping a full tank aside, if one's travel MO includes primarily RV parks (or if one's rig is close to or at the gvwr), carrying a full or even partly full tank may not be a concern, but if one boondocks or dry camps as their usual style, finding a convenient potable water source can sometimes be an issue, particularly in dry areas (and there are lots of these!) of the west.
As Larry points out, water availability can be dicey; sometimes the lack is due to an unsafe supply (e coli, giardia, etc.), or the campground or supply is down for maintenance or repair, or simply that the water is so bad (smelly, tastes awful, cloudy, murky) that it's not usable unless one has no choice. (A filter may help with some of these conditions, as long as the water is not bacteriologically unsafe.)
Like many of us, I've used a water thief (Gorilla-taped to the unthreaded spigot because the thing shoots off the connection when one turns on the water) and/or jugs and a funnel (no filter, just blind faith) to put water into the tank on quite a few occasions.
YMMV, of course! ;)
PS, the Mothership installed a washable screen filter and that keeps out the big chunks. We have never used any other filter.
The reason I posted was to alert others that a pump on the fritz might be put back in service by cleaning the pressure switch/diaphragm.
I dropped a remote camera into our fresh water tank, a couple of years ago, and found little sediment and no green stuff.
Like many of us, I've used a water thief (Gorilla-taped to the unthreaded spigot because the thing shoots off the connection when one turns on the water) and/or jugs and a funnel
We aren't religious about filling the tank when we return - we have a pool in the back yard - but like Larry and Joan I ALWAYS fill to the brim before heading out. The extra weight has never made a noticeable difference in fuel mileage with either our '83 or our '04, and once the tank drops to 50% or less, driving lets an air bubble into the system which needs to be burped. I also carry 6 gallon water jug with a long, curved spout that will allow me to pour directly into the water fill.
I used to have a Water Thief - but I think it was stolen! And Larry, I think have a tool to help you recover that dropped camera...
Steve
It is our practice to travel with a full tank of filtered water and only drink, wash and shower with water from the rig. When I get below one third of a tank, I refill the tank through a two canister filter. I have a 5 micron sediment filter to remove the big stuff like protozoans, algae, and hard sediments and a combo filter that has a carbon filter for chlorine and lead with a 0.5 micron filter to remove all bacteria, most cysts and some viruses. I use filters from this source.
Cartridges for Standard Canisters: RV Water Filter Store (https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/CFSC.htm)
They are geared to RV's and their prices are competitive. Customer service is excellent.
We have had the personal experience of being in a camp in the northern Sierras in California where the municipal water was infected with Giardia. I had used the water in the camper, as I always do in camp, but my brother and his family drank and showered with the water from the faucet. Their entire family got Giardia, which is a pretty miserable experience. My family got Giardia while camping and it is an experience that we NEVER, EVER want to repeat! After that experience, all water that goes into our tank gets filtered. The likelihood of municipal, or well water being infected is low, but the infrequent possibility of getting Giardia, or most recently Cryptosporidium is absolutely not worth the trouble. Cryptosporidium is small, often not tested for in many communities, and doesn't get killed by many municipal treatment plants. It is becoming more prevalent every year.
Communitywide cryptosporidiosis outbreak associated with a surface water-supp... (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26264893)
Just my .02 and other's mileage will vary, but it is pretty easy to prevent waterborne illness.
HD
Adding to Harold's comments on giardia and cryptosporidium: some municipal water supplies and "recreational water sources", e.g., creeks, rivers, lakes, are infected with one or both of these nasty parasites. Note that both are resistant to chlorine disinfection.
Parasites - Cryptosporidium (also known as "Crypto") | Cryptosporidium |... (https://www.cdc.gov/parasites/crypto/index.html)
Giardia | Parasites | CDC (https://www.cdc.gov/parasites/giardia/index.html)
Animals are also very susceptible to giardia and crypto; don't let your dog(s) (or cat(s) drink out of the creek (river, lake) or from any water source that may be unsafe.
(IMO, this is a much more fun thread than coffee! :D )
(IMO, this is a much more fun thread than coffee! :D )
Joan, since water is required to make coffee, they are not mutually exclusive. Time to go have a cup! :)
RE: "Animals are also very susceptible to giardia and crypto; don't let your dog(s) (or cat(s) drink out of the creek (river, lake) or from any water source that may be unsafe."
I used to think dogs had a cast-iron stomach (at least those I had growing up/in grad school), & I don't think it was the water, because the 4-Legged Alarm seemed to find something to eat that I'd not given her when we were last at the farm, but her plumbing was not happy for a few days.
RE: "(IMO, this is a much more fun thread than coffee! :D )"
Me, too...but I only enjoy the smell of the brew. ;D
Thanks, Judie. That is very helpful.
Ray S.
PS, the Mothership installed a washable screen filter and that keeps out the big chunks. We have never used any other filter.
Ditto since 1974.
I've always been more concerned about storing a water filter between uses in a nice warm, moist environment; prime growing conditions for mold, bacteria, protozoa, viruses, fungus, and other assorted potential pathogens. Let alone the fibers that will inevitably flake from the filter media and the chemicals used to make the filters that find their way into your morning coffee. :o
I'll take my chances with the public water system.
Ed, did you say "Coffee"? If you use a coffee filter all that fiber material and some of the grit gets filtered out with the grounds. and using the pour-over method, you can boil the water as long as you want to kill the bacteria, so you see, coffee is the answer. 8)
After reading all the above, I'm wondering if I should replace the original Shurflo 5.7 Extreme (from 2006) with the SHURflo 4008-101-E65 3.0 Revolution Water Pump, before my trip next month to Washington? Current pump works fine as far as I can tell, but is this a good proactive thing to do or just unnecessary use of time/money at this point since the one in there now still works?
I did notice this past weekend, when camped three days using only my fresh tank, water level was down to/less than a third, when I opened a faucet, it would cycle on & quickly every few seconds, which I don't remember happening when tank was full(er)
Or really, am I just overthinking this and just shouldn't worry until when/if it fails. Or maybe just buying the 4008, but not installing it and keep onboard as spare just in case?
Leaving on 7/23 for two-week trip & getting apprehensive about everything that could cause a problem … OCD kicking in! :-)
thanks in advance for any thoughts & pros&cons of replace now or wait until it stops working!
Daryl
This troubleshooting chart may help:
http://shurflo.com/images/files/pdf/troubleshooting-guide/SF_PumpTroubleShoot.pdf
The short cycling may be a simple fix; the 5.7 may have a clogged filter, or there might be a small leak, or maybe a faucet isn't completely turned off, or the air gap in the water heater needs replacing, etc., but since the 5.7 was proven to be "unreliable", I would get the 4008 and replace the pump before your trip. Replacing the water pump now would give you some peace of mind about the possibility of the 5.7 failing along the way and needing to do a pump replacement on the road, particularly if you didn't have the 4008 on board.
My original Whisper King died a few years ago; I replaced it with another Whisper King, but since that pump is history, a 4008 is in the compartment awaiting its turn! Travel with spares; a water pump, sewer hoses and fittings, fuses, anything that would cause a good deal of inconvenience is the original failed in some way.
My mantra is: 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'. I don't cotton to replacing stuff that still may have an extended service life just on the off chance it might fail.
If, as you say, the old pump is still working leave it alone but prepare yourself for it's ultimate demise. Buy that new pump and carry it as a spare. ::)
thanks, guys!
I think I'll split the difference between doing nothing and replacing it now and buy the 4008 & keep it onboard as a spare, just in case! And I'll check the filter and air gap in water heater, etc.….
thanks again for the advice :-)
My mantra is: 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'. I don't cotton to replacing stuff that still may have an extended service life just on the off chance it might fail.
If, as you say, the old pump is still working leave it alone but prepare yourself for it's ultimate demise. Buy that new pump and carry it as a spare. ::)
Back in the day, when I worked on my old VW's this mantra was a
Golden Rule that many of us home mechanics followed.
Another ol' saying..."The Walls Have Ears" ...sssh.
https://youtu.be/1s-PiIbzbhw
Sometimes they can even read lips...
Kent
thanks, guys!
I think I'll split the difference between doing nothing and replacing it now and buy the 4008 & keep it onboard as a spare, just in case! And I'll check the filter and air gap in water heater, etc.….
thanks again for the advice :-)
I think it was WXtoad (aka Ted) that had the best idea. Hook up the new 4009 but place it near the old one while leaving the old one in place. Switch from time to time to keep both exercised. It is not really an "on line spare" but very close to it. Just shifting the hoses and electrical connections.
I think it was WXtoad (aka Ted) that had the best idea. Hook up the new 4009 but place it near the old one while leaving the old one in place. Switch from time to time to keep both exercised. It is not really an "on line spare" but very close to it. Just shifting the hoses and electrical connections.
That worked great in Ted's Rear Bath, with it's huge empty area under the wardrobe's bottom drawer.
It isn't an option for Daryl. His 23.5' FL does not have any extra room where the pump is mounted. It is fairly tight space.
Carrying a spare is a good idea but switching pump configurations sometimes turns into a bigger project the what was planned.
Many times longer hoses or wires are needed for a proper installation.
Larry
Yes I do agree I know in our mid bath its way to tight
Where is the water pump located in the newer TK's? I can't recall where it was in my '85.
That worked great in Ted's Rear Bath, with it's huge empty area under the wardrobe's bottom drawer.
It isn't an option for Daryl. His 23.5' FL does not have any extra room where the pump is mounted. It is fairly tight space.
Carrying a spare is a good idea but switching pump configurations sometimes turns into a bigger project the what was planned.
Many times longer hoses or wires are needed for a proper installation.
Larry
Hi Larry!
You're right about the tight space there... Out of curiosity I lifted up the wardrobe floor to access pump so I could visualize what I'd be dealing with and definitely not much room in that space!
Is the 4008 an appropriate replacement ? You mention that "switching configurations" may cause install problems with wiring/hoses. We have the same floor plan, so the 4008 will fit in there, right? Would you think this would be a good DIY project for someone like me with no plumbing/electrical skills or leave it to an rv shop. Leale's in San Jose has a good reputation and for labor, they quoted me range of $130 - 270 for install, depending on how difficult the access is. Pump itself on Amazon is $75 last I checked.
Thanks,
Daryl
Daryl, this link is to the Shurflo pump replacement chart; if you can't find the correct replacement number for the Extreme 5.7, I suggest calling the company to get the information.
http://shurflo.com/images/files/Pump_Conversion_Chart/RV-Pump-Conversion-Chart.pdf
I've dealt with Leale's several times, and have been satisfied with the quality and service; like any place in the Bay Area, they are expensive, but stand behind their work. (They replaced my original Whisper King with WK#2.)
Be glad that you don't have a TK; the access to the water pump in my 2003 is through a tiny bottom drawer in the galley area, and removal/installation needs someone with a strong flashlight, small hands, and the body of a contortionist. I have the flashlight. ;)
thanks for that link! According to the chart, my OEM 5900-0201 (Smart Sensor 5.7) should be replaced with the 4048-153-E75 (and not the 4008 Revolution) found it on Amazon for $152-- don't know why it's twice as much as the 4008, but it is what it is…
Nice to hear you've also had good experience at Leale's. I've talked to them over the phone, but haven't been there yet--they're not far from where I store the rig in Milpitas. And, yeah, EVERYTHING in the Bay Area is more expensive, right?! But as long as they do good work….
And I thought my FL pump access was tight; the TK sounds near-impossible to get to :-)
As far as the current 5.7 in there now, I'll leave it along but will try swapping out the super low-flow (0.5 gpm) aerator I had put on the kitchen faucet and put the original one back on it and see if that makes a difference with the on/off cycling. Have read that a real low flow (or clogged aerator) could be a cause. Maybe also try a 1.0 gpm to see if it works better than the 0.5 as far as cycling.
In the meantime, think I'll just get the 4048 to have as a spare for when the inevitable happens!
thanks again, (also, anyone who already has the 4048 have any feedback about them, good or bad?)
Daryl
The LD factory is installing the 4008 Revolution pump in the current models.
thanks, Bruce,
Does that mean then that either the 4048 or 4008 Revo will work (and fit in the same space as the old Extreme 5.7)?
Seems folks like the 4008 & LD is now installing them new (and the fact it's half the price of the 4048), as long as it will work & fit, I'd opt for the 4008…
As a result of this thread, I replaced my 5.7 with a 4008. The physical size is a bit smaller and it fit just fine. I needed one longer section of hose for the installation, but that is all I needed to make the swap.
Is the 4008 an appropriate replacement ? You mention that "switching configurations" may cause install problems with wiring/hoses. We have the same floor plan, so the 4008 will fit in there, right? Would you think this would be a good DIY project for someone like me with no plumbing/electrical skills .
This when you can develop those useful skills, we all start somewhere.
Our LD has had a 4008 for several years, it's a good choice.
It isn't too technical to change. Make sure you have plenty of time in case you need longer hoses.
I called Shurflo this morning and tech support said the 4048 has the same footprint as the old 5.7 and is also 4 gpm, rather than the 3 gpm of the 4008. It's the current replacement for the 5.7 & he seemed to advocate the 4048.
That said, seems like everyone here has & likes the 4008 (and it's half the cost, which I also like :-) Wonder if the difference of 3 vs 4 gpm would even be noticeable? And the the 4008 also seems to be proven reliable -- haven't seen or read anything about the 4048.
Sorry to beat a dead horse, but don't want to buy the "wrong" one!
thanks again everybody for any final thoughts before I wrap this up and order :-)
Daryl
This when you can develop those useful skills, we all start somewhere.
thanks, Larry…. maybe I will give it a go myself and hope i don't screw it up! ;)