I just removed the original awning from my 1986 LD. I am not going to replace it for now. My problem is that underneath was 30 years worth of old black adhesive and dirt. There also is unpainted aluminum showing. Any advice on cleaning away the gunk without harming the aluminum? I am planning to just paint over the area to match as best as possible once the grime is all cleaned away.
I recently removed a winter skirting from around my Airstream.
The skirting was secured with Gorilla Tape. Once the skirting and tape was removed here was a gummy residue left behind from the tape. I was able to remove the gummy residue with
Amazon.com: 3M 08987 General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, 15 oz.: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/dp/B0002NUO6K).
Although an Airstream is not painted I was concerned the cleaner could damage the clear coat used to protect the aluminum.
I was pleased the cleaner removed the gunk without damaging the clear coat.
Like with any product you are not familiar with test in a small area before commenting to larger surfaces.
I would first tackle the dirt and mold using a strong disinfectant, a brush, gloves, and mask. If the sealant is LD applied Parlastic or other polyurethane, then you may need a judiciously used heatgun and plastic scraper.
Steve
You might try Goo Gone. It's a citrus-based cleaner.
Sense you're planning to paint over the area. I would use acetone or MEK. Having retired from over 30 working on aircraft. It is what we used to clean the aluminum prior to paint. Just use care not to get them on the surface you don't intend to paint. And wear gloves as both products will go into your body. MEK is stronger than the acetone.
I would use turpintene for the glue and goo. 90% IPA or acetone for the Turpintene oi,l and paint it.
Thank you for all the quick advice. I found a can of automotive wax cleaner in the garage and tried it out on a small area. It worked great with a little scrubbing and a plastic putty knife. Now I need to get some matching paint and it should look pretty good. I am thinking about getting an old school vintage style awning with the light weight rail track that attaches to the side. I think it ultimately would suit the old girl better and is definitely much less expensive.
https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=awning+rail
Be careful with Goo Gone. To much rubbing could cause paint damage.
Looks like you got it clean. But I am totally shocked that it wasn't painted under the awning. I sure would have thought they would have painted it before installing the awning. To protect the aluminum from corrosion.
Looks like you got it clean. But I am totally shocked that it wasn't painted under the awning. I sure would have thought they would have painted it before installing the awning. To protect the aluminum from corrosion.
LD mounts the awning before the coach is painted. When the coach is painted, the awning prevents the area behind it from being painted.
While this thin strip of aluminum doesn't get painted, awning itself does, matching the coach's paint and giving the awning's plastic exterior parts extra protection from sun damage.
The unpainted aluminum siding does not seem to degrade or corrode badly.
I would rather have the strip of unpainted aluminum instead of an unpainted awning.
The paint expose, when an awning is removed, is the standard Ford Oxford white, available in spray cans at any big
auto parts store.
Rainwater and debris can pass though the gap, between the awning and the wall.
Chris Horst came up with the idea to fill the gap with 1/2" foam backer board, available at most home centers.
Frost King E/O 1/2 in. x 20 ft. Poly Foam Caulk Saver-C22H - The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-2-in-x-20-ft-Poly-Foam-Caulk-Saver-C22H/100159362)
It deflects most rain water and can even be caulked into place, for complete watertightness.
Larry
Chris Horst came up with the idea to fill the gap with 1/2" foam backer board, available at most home centers.
Frost King E/O 1/2 in. x 20 ft. Poly Foam Caulk Saver-C22H - The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-2-in-x-20-ft-Poly-Foam-Caulk-Saver-C22H/100159362) It deflects most rain water and can even be caulked into place, for complete watertightness.
I remember that discussion and from time to time, thought I needed to do that too. I only remember to do it when washing the LD ... "next time" I say to myself. Maybe next time is this week? Question for Chris if he's hanging around.
Did you find the 1/2" adequate as compared to 3/8". Seems the gap between my awning and the side is rather small on our LD.
I remember that discussion and from time to time, thought I needed to do that too. I only remember to do it when washing the LD ... "next time" I say to myself. Maybe next time is this week? Question for Chris if he's hanging around.
Did you find the 1/2" adequate as compared to 3/8". Seems the gap between my awning and the side is rather small on our LD.
Here's the message from some months ago: 2005
Awning Gap Between Coach and Brackets? (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=28853.msg159608#msg159608)
I don't remember about size of the foam backer rod.
Chris
Did you find the 1/2" adequate as compared to 3/8". Seems the gap between my awning and the side is rather small on our LD.
I have used 1/2" and 5/8" backer rod, both work because backer rod is made of foam rubber and can be compressed.
I forgot about Chris' finding the cap made by Fiamma.
You might try the backer rod and see it it works for you. Can't beat the price, $4 for a roll of backer vs. $4 a foot, plus shipping, for the Fiamma cap.
Larry
I have used 1/2" and 5/8" backer rod, both work because backer rod is made of foam rubber and can be compressed.
I forgot about Chris' finding the cap made by Fiamma.
You might try the backer rod and see it it works for you. Can't beat the price, $4 for a roll of backer vs. $4 a foot, plus shipping, for the Fiamma cap.
Larry
As best I can remember I went through this drill to keep water from running between the awning and the coach. And the only reason to do this is if one is experiencing rain and has a patio mat out and the awning is extended and thus rainwater is prevented from running down the side of the LD and soaking the patio area. Since it seems to never rain in my area of the West and since I usually don't have the awning out in a rain storm (it will blow away), I decided just to not to worry about a wet patio area.
Chris