LED replacement lights are widely available and now inexpensive. With a little research, you can do a lot better than what LD supplies. I'm not impressed with the Factory lights, preferring aftermarket LED lights...better colors and light output.
Hi Larry, I don't mean to hijack this thread, but this is something I am looking to do on my current trip, and I was hoping for a primer on what to order and perhaps on installation tips. Do you have a pointer to what you would recommend? We are looking to replace all fluorescents and incandescent inside our 2000 MB coach.
Thanks (and sorry for the hijack).
S-
The interior incandescent light fixtures use an 1156 bulb. Googling “1156 LED white” will provide hundreds of choices.
The two important specs to look for are the color temperature and lumen output.
Make sure to specify a “white” color, not red, 1156 bulbs are also used in car tail lights
The desirable color temperatures range from 2700K to 4000K. 2700K bulbs produce a yellow, incandescent-type light. 4000K is whiter, closer to daylight.
No recommendations on any particular brand, not having bought any of them in several years.
The overhead fluorescents have choices for conversion to LEDs.
All require some electrical work ranging from easy to more involved projects that require soldering small wires.
The simplest I have tried are the Starlights T-8 tube replacements.
They fit in the original tube holders and require disconnecing the ballast and wiring directly to the power switch and ground.
Wire nuts or taped splices can be used instead of soldering.
Starlights T8-18 18-Inch Fluorescent Tube LED Replacement
Amazon.com: Starlights T8-18 18-Inch Fluorescent Tube LED Replacement with... (https://www.amazon.com/Starlights-T8-18-18-Inch-Fluorescent-Replacement/dp/B004LFAACI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488870039&sr=8-1&keywords=Starlights+T8-18+18-Inch+Fluorescent+Tube+LED+Replacement)
The Cabin Bright bulbs are pre-wired LED trip that stick to the fixtures reflector, after the fluorescent tubes are removed.
They also wire the same way as the Starlights.
Cabin Bright - 15-18 Inch 12 Volt LED SINGLE Fluorescent Tube Replacement
Amazon.com: Cabin Bright - 15-18 Inch 12 Volt LED SINGLE Fluorescent Tube... (https://www.amazon.com/Cabin-Bright-Fluorescent-Replacement25-BRIGHTER/dp/B00EAUMD6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488870689&sr=8-1&keywords=Cabin+Bright+-+15-18+Inch+12+Volt+LED+SINGLE+Fluorescent+Tube)
While the pre-wired replacements above are easy to wire, they are expensive.
A much cheaper way to replace the fluorescent tubes is to use LEDs on a 15’ strip.
You cut off the desired length in 2” sections and solder wire to the ends or use a snap-on connector.
Strips of different temperature LEDs can mixed to provide your desired light color.
Here is a U-Tube video showing the basics.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAMPQrAu0aI
Below is a link to the last rolls of LEDs I purchased, one roll of the 2700K and one of the 3200K, for mixing.
Flexible LED Light Strip with 300xSMD3528 and Adhesive Back, 12 Volt, Neutral White
Amazon.com: LEDMO 5630 Flexible Led Strip, Daylight 300pcs SMD 5630LEDs... (https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Flexible-Daylight-Waterproof-brightness/dp/B01339G2F6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1516035721&sr=8-4&keywords=led+roll+lightsThese) are the end connectors used. Cut each one in half.
LED Light Strip Connector Adapter Cable
SoundOriginal 8mm SMD3528 Any Angle LED Light Strip Connector Adapter Cable... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017QDHHA4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
See the LD Companion for information on LEDs.
The Lazy Daze Companion: LED Lights (http://lazydazearticles.blogspot.com/2014/01/led-lights.html)
Searching the forum’s archives will also provide lots of information on what other members have done.
Larry
I used Cabin Bright for almost all my replacements over two years ago. Not the cheapest but I have had no failures. At that time the pricing per strip for the fluorescent tube strip replacements made it a bit cheaper to order two or three of the same color temp as a set intended for one fixture. I put either one or two strips per fixture. I think two strips are supposed to be brighter than the original fluorescent tubes, so no need for three unless you want very bright light. On the ones I put two strips in I put a warm strip with a dimmer and a bright strip using the original on/off switch. Cabin Bright's dimmers are about $30 (Joe at Cabin Bright told me they don't even mark them up much) , but they are small enough to install in the fluorescent fixtures and have worked well.
Thanks Larry and Jay for the responses to my query.
I think it may be time for me to order some of the materials.
S-
We would like to change over our interior fluorescent lights to LED. Seems there is a numerical range of LED numbers that denote the quality/brightness of the LEDs, from say 2500 to 6400 or so.
Two questions: Does anyone know what number the factory installs in new models; and for those of you replacing older model fluorescents from M4 and other sources, what number have you found to be satisfactory?
We had 6000 in a Class A and it was bright and garish to us; we’re looking for a softer lighting but yet something our older eyes can read by.
Many thanks!!
Bob
A color of 2700 to 3000 Kelvin falls in the range of 'warm white'. Do a search for a light color temperature chart.
Steve
I am aware of that designation of warm white for that numerical range, but is that really adequate for comfortable reading, Steve?
Thanks!!!
"...what number have you found to be satisfactory?"
I have just recently completed a total conversion to LED. Need any spare bulbs? ;)
All of my new LED lights are "Natural White - 4500K" and I couldn't be more pleased. They provide much more light than the old ones and they don't have that warm shade of the incandescent, nor the cold blue appearance of the "Cool" types. ::) ;D
The 4400-4500K is pretty much is what the M4 site recommends for “aging eyes”. I’m glad to know you are satisfied with that. When Jirah installed the 6000K in our class A (WAY too bright!!!) fluorescent fixtures they used light strips. You mention bulbs. For different fixtures?
LED color or temperature is an individual thing, some like a warm color, in the 2700-3000K range, others like a cooler color, 4000-6000K.
I suggest buying a bulb or two in the various colors and see what your preference is.
Today's new LDs come with very cool colors, much bluer than my preference.
I prefer a warm color in the lounge area and a little cooler, whiter light, for the kitchen.
You can also mix colors, having more than one color in an area, using the one the suits you at the time.
Larry
People in their 60s generally need at least three times more light for reading or doing 'tasks' than those in their 20s.
Few, if any, statistics on light requirements are available for those in their 70s and 80s; that may mean that the only recourse for some of us is to sit on an airport runway when attempting a task requiring 'adequate ambient light'.
YMMV.
Again the mention of bulbs. We have Lazy Daze installed LED spots with bulbs in our 2007 (color unknown) but are looking to convert the overhead fluorescents. Am I correct in saying that will require LED strips? Is a 4400K pretty consistent in color with bulbs and strips? Is there a conversion fixture that replaces fluorescent with LED bulbs?
I am aware of that designation of warm white for that numerical range, but is that really adequate for comfortable reading, Steve?
Thanks!!!
It is what we use at home, so we are very used to it and prefer it. It most resembles incandescent bulb color. However, the cooler (bluer) colors typically put out a few more lumens for the same current consumption. We have a pair of bulbs for reading that are about 4k Kelvin, and the light is nice for reading, but the general illumination they provide in the rig I find unpleasant aesthetically. Our other similar pair of reading lights are warm white, and they are just fine for reading too, while being more pleasant overall.
Steve
"... they used light strips. You mention bulbs. For different fixtures?"
My conversion project had a long evolution... did I mention procrastination? At the beginning I bought a set of 'light strips' from Cabin Bright. By the time I got things moving I had done a lot more research. That's when I discovered M4 Products and their Tube Lights.
Since I had one set of 'light strips' I decided to use them. Unfortunately while working with them one of the connection wires broke free from the strip. Rather than trying to solder that delicate connection I ordered another set from Cabin Bright.
So, I now have one fixture that utilizes light strips and seven other fixtures that have M4's Tube Lights in Natural White. Can I see a difference between the two types? Not really, but then I don't know what color temp the strip lights are!
We would like to change over our interior fluorescent lights to LED. Seems there is a numerical range of LED numbers that denote the quality/brightness of the LEDs, from say 2500 to 6400 or so.
Two questions: Does anyone know what number the factory installs in new models; and for those of you replacing older model fluorescents from M4 and other sources, what number have you found to be satisfactory?
We had 6000 in a Class A and it was bright and garish to us; we’re looking for a softer lighting but yet something our older eyes can read by.
Many thanks!!
Bob
Bob, what year and model LD do you have?
Chris
2007 Mid Bath, Rear Bedroom/Living Room. Just drove her home!!!!
So am I hearing that the fluorescent bulbs can be replaced with LED bulbs? Any modifications needed other than eliminating the ballast?
So am I hearing that the fluorescent bulbs can be replaced with LED bulbs? Any modifications needed other than eliminating the ballast?
Yes, that's it, just bypass the ballast .
The disconnected ballast can be removed or left in place.
Larry
Congrats, mysrlb Whooo Hooo! 👍🐯🎉
Thanks, Tiger!!! Our second LD, our first was a ‘97 26’ Island Bed, after 5 years bought a diesel pusher, now going back to our roots and happy to be doing so.
And a huge thank you to all who have been so generous with your knowledge!!! Such a tremendous help!!!
Happy Trails to all!!!!
Bob
"Any modifications needed other than eliminating the ballast?"
The various kits come with explicit instructions. All that is required is to re-wire the fixture so that one end is wired + and the opposite end neg. Pop in the LED tube, which may be polarity sensitive, and you're good to go!
Congrats, I had a 1991 SP-36 Bluebird Wanderlodge for 10 years and found it way too complex, maintenance took too much time and money, for the little we used it, we enjoyed it, glad it’s gone.
What kind of diesel pusher did you have? What did you miss not having a LD?
I converted the main two florescent fixtures in the ceiling with Nighthawk LED strips. At 6000K they are too blue and garish. I plan to install a switch in each fixture to turn off one of the two strips, most of the time. Full brightness would only be used to do spill cleanup or some such task needing really bright lighting. My other 5 florescent fixtures are 4500K M4. (T8-120-3528-18 NW [Natural White] @4500K) bulbs. The bulb is only half white emitting LED's, the back half is aluminum heat sink. It can be turned in the socket so the LED's point down. With the diffuser plastic in place they are nearly indistinguishable from the florescent bulbs. Those bulbs in the 'cool white' are a good match for the 4500K. When re-wiring the fixture, the LED 'bulbs' are polarity insensitive. They will work either way.+12v on one end and ground on the other. Not cheap at about $55 per pair, but they work really well. HTHelps RonB
I am aware of that designation of warm white for that numerical range, but is that really adequate for comfortable reading,
Degrees Kelvin describes the warmth or coolness of the light. 2700-3000K will be similar to incandescent or halogen lighting. higher than 5000 will be more like fluorescent/cool white.
Lumens describes how bright the light is. More lumens = brighter. More lumens also usually means more wattage.
CRI is color rendering index - how "true" colors will appear. Higher is truer.
Personally, we always went with 2700-3000k, 1 watt or higher CREE (the manufacturer of the LED itself, not the whole bulb - kind of like Intel makes processors that are used in many PC brands), 120+ lumens, high CRI (90 or higher) LEDs in a puck light.
Speaking of LED conversion. I have removed all (but the kitchen) florescent lights from my LD. Does anybody need spare tubes or ballasts. Just pay for a box and shipping and they are yours.
Bob
There seems to be a glut in the market just now! :o ;) 8)
bob
Do you have a ballast that you removed from your LD florescent light fixture? If I knew how to rewire them to be LED, I would. But putting in a ballast that is in good working order would be easier at this time. We have a 2004 mb lazy daze and just love it, but it's starting to have a few wrinkles.
Eva
"Do you have a ballast that you've removed..."
I recently converted all of my lights to LED in my 2004 30'IB. Because the ballast is not needed for LED lighting, most folks cut the wires up close to the printed ckt board, leave the ballast in place and rewire the remainder of the fixture. The old ballast is riveted to the metal frame and removing it would most likely destroy the fixture.
If you link to one of the LED suppliers, such as M4 Products below, you will find explicit instructions on how to do the rewire. It is so very simple a child could do it.
By the time you've purchased a replacement fixture you will have spent far more than you would have by conversion. ;)
led replacement tube lights for 12v RVs and Trailers (http://www.m4products.com/tube-lights/)
Hi Eva, Like Bob I do have old working ballasts, with light bulbs; removed from my M4 LED'ified lights. They are free for the shipping. I have two ballasts and 4 bulbs presently. RonB
Blue light is harsh for us also. And it turns out I am blue light sensitive - even seeing the new vehicle headlights on the road that are blue led feels irritating to my eyes. (The things you learn when you get older, I thought iI was a night owl and could sleep whenever but it turns out I have none 24 hour circadian rhythm sleep disorder and are blue light sensitive - lol).
I also need more light to read (more lumina) and that is actually more important to me tha larger print (dim lighting in restaurants has me pulling out my reading glasses, good lighting and I don’t need them unless the print is the size found on the tiny Advil bottle - where as DH complains about seeing only ants without his glasses).
Our new LEDs are 2800-3200K
Luminous flux: 300 Lumens
A nice warm light and much brighter than I expected and fine to read by.
Home improvement stores (Home Depot, Lowes) typically have a display set up that shows different light bulbs and you can see what warm light versus daylight versus cool light looks like to you.
Jane
HELP!!!! Finally installing my newly received M4 LED tubes. The ballast/wire shield is riveted in place. Did y’all drill out the rivit and then re-rivit at the conclusion of the job?
Bob
"The ballast/wire shield is riveted in place. Did y'all drill out the rivit and then re-rivit at the conclusion of the job?"
----
Bob, previous posts in this thread address the "what to do with the ballast" question, and I believe that the M4 website offers installation instructions for the LED tubes.
Good luck with the job.
"The ballast/wire shield..."
Bob
If I am interpreting your question correctly, you are asking about the 'shield' that covers the ballast from view, no?
In my experience I have never seen a ballast cover that was riveted to the frame. All of the ones I've seen can be removed by putting pressure on the sides, squeezing toward the center and lifting out.
Or maybe I still do not understand your question! ::)
You are correct, Lazy Bones, and I was misinterpreting what I was seeing. Because my shield is tapered making it near impossible to squeeze it for removal, I was thinking the riveted ground wire was riveting the shield in place. I searched online until I found a shield that looks like mine and there was a warning to not break that ground wire. I ended up placing an awl in a hole near the edge of the metal shield and thus removing it. From there on it was a piece of cake as everyone has pointed out. Thank you one and all — we now have wonderful LED lights throughout the rig!!!
Bob
Fluorescent lights are fairly efficient, as least compared to incandescents. I'm just wondering if the cost and effort is worthwhile to upgrade from fluorescent to LED?
Fluorescent lights are fairly efficient, as least compared to incandescents. I'm just wondering if the cost and effort is worthwhile to upgrade from fluorescent to LED?
Fluorescents are more efficient than incandescent light but hugely inefficient compared to LED replacements.
It is a very worthwhile upgrade. In our LD, with all LED, we can light up the rig from one to the other with the power needed to run one Factory fluorescent fixture.
I have used products from M4, including tube replacements, and been satisfied, it's also local.
LED RV Retrofit Bulbs - Tube Lights - 18" F15T8 - M4 Products (http://www.m4products.com/18-f15t8/)
Larry
While LEDs are more efficient, best scenario is about 60% more, for the same lumens output. However, LEDs are highly directional, fluorescents are omni-directional. So, for illumination on a surface directly below, a lower lumen output from LEDs will provide the same brightness level. However, for generally providing room illumination, LEDs are not as effective, so a higher lumen output is required - narrowing the efficiency gap. Another wrench in the works is the method used to drive the LEDs to the correct current level. Linear control, usually using series resistors, is inefficient, but most commonly used. PWM control is highly efficient, but I do not know if this is what is used in the replacement tubes. PWM control also has the potential of causing RF interference, or in some cases, audible 'whistling'.
Replacing fluorescent tubes with LED ones also allows the option of using a single tube, and aiming it for direct lighting if general illumination is not the goal. Replacing all the incandescent lighting with LEDs will of course take a huge chunk out of your power 'bill'.
Steve
As Larry said,LED's are more efficient than florescent. I am in the process of replacing my other florescent and incandescent lights also. The single bulb incandescent takes 2 amps. Compare that light with 2.1 amps for the florescent (two tubes). I got the M4 4500k, each tube at .4 amps, both at .8 amps are less than half of what the florescents draw. The color match is near perfect to the 'cool white'. I have had one test fixture, my most used fixture, for over a year, and it's nearly impossible to tell the difference, except it comes on instantly. I use the 4500 Kelvin color temperature tubes. (Natural White).
Pretty easy to retrofit. You can leave the ballast in place, just cutting the wires off. I removed mine.
The days of linear power control is long gone. Even high quality audio components use 'class D' switching controllers. Most use 100k Hertz up to 2 MHz as a base frequency, almost no inductance except to remove transients. While I did hear a few compact florescents 'whistle', Led's shouldn't be audible, and electrical interference minimal. The electrical 'noise' for LED's would certainly be less than our 'in place' electronic ballasts on our current florescent lights. RonB
(edit) I find the 6000K too 'glaring' and the 3000K too yellow. I like the 4500K as a good compromise. A link to M4's 4500K. LED Replacement for 18" T8 Tube Lights (http://www.m4products.com/t8-120-3528-18-nw-f15t8-natural-white-18-t8-led-tube-light-12v-4500k/)
I've just completed all of our interior lighting, the earlier generation LED tubes had wires that had to be wired into the light fixture's wiring. The latest tubes from Amazon required rewiring the light fixture with the ground on one end and the 12V. hot to the other end. Insert the tubes and move on to the next one. Very simple. I prefer the bulbs with a color range of 2800 to 3200. Warmer light but sometimes a little less light. I didn't skimp and installed all bulbs in all light fixtures. My wife likes the warmer color, says she feels warm. The higher range has a colder feel. Make sure you get the highest lumens available. A fluorescent tube as it ages, is not electrically efficient.
Also I know that when you replace the lights you disconnect the ballast, so I'm wondering if you can recommend a good YouTube video for a repair idiot.
This Youtube video is by RVgeeks and if you use a code listed in this Youtube video, you'll receive a 5% discount (Coupon Code RVGEEKS5). For what it's worth, I've find the RVGeeks instructional videos to be excellent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3JFLErfMxw
Hope this helps.
Ed, I merged 2 other threads on the same topic to your current one. This will give more information to viewers.
Chris
The days of linear power control is long gone.....While I did hear a few compact florescents 'whistle', Led's shouldn't be audible, and electrical interference minimal.
Unfortunately, this is not true. Typically three LED elements will be in series with a resistor - crude but effective - to provide proper current stability from about 11V to 15V. This accounts for the majority of multiple-element LED arrays. For single-element high-powered LED lamps, PWM is the most common regulator found. When these lamps 'sing', it is the pulsed current delivery causing vibrations of the ferrite cores used in the controller. If not sufficiently suppressed, low-frequency RF interference can also occur. This is the case of a quad of LED spots I installed. I noticed no problems, but a friend I recommended them to noted buzzing when listening to a favorite AM radio program. I then verified ours do it too. It was propagated via the power buss. Note too the 'singing' of fluorescent ballasts is also due to the audio high-frequency switching supply that in this case is to step up the voltage.
Note too the M4 bulbs you used are rated at 410 lumens each. They replace fluorescent bulbs rated at 845 lumens each. That brings your current measurements into perspective...
Steve
Steve, will there be a test afterwards? 😊
Note too the M4 bulbs you used are rated at 410 lumens each. They replace fluorescent bulbs rated at 845 lumens each. That brings your current measurements into perspective...
Check the link l listed above to find the specs for the M4 18" T8 LED replacement tubes.
They are rated at 960 lumens @.62-amp, for a single tube..
LED Replacement for 18" 12v Tube Lights (http://www.m4products.com/t8-120-3528-18-cw-f15t8-cool-white-18-t8-led-tube-light-12v-6000k/)
A dual tube, Factory fluorescent fixture draws 2.4-amp or 1.2 amps per tube. If the LED tubes only produced 450 lumens, they wouldn't be anymore efficient than a fluorescent tube.
The LEDs are directional and since all the light is aimed downward, they provide more light on the subject, compared to a fluorescent tube with a similar lumen output.
Since most folks are happy with a single LED tube, the power consumption is reduced by 75%. Granted it isn't as many overall lumens, as twin fluorescent tubes, but it is generally enough.
Larry
Check the link l listed above to find the specs for the M4 18" T8 LED replacement tubes.
They are rated at 960 lumens @.62-amp, for a single tube..
LED Replacement for 18" 12v Tube Lights (http://www.m4products.com/t8-120-3528-18-cw-f15t8-cool-white-18-t8-led-tube-light-12v-6000k/)
Ahhh... this comes from not spending enough time IN our rig - I incorrectly quoted the 12" model, and probably a single-row of elements. Anyway, these specs show the LEDs draw about 60% of the fluorescent draw for roughly equivalent light, as expected. And, of course, a single tube used in direct-lighting applications should be satisfactory. My experience in using strips directly instead of the tubes shows that strategic aiming in their attachment can provide adequate wide angle illumination. You would probably want to use two tubes on the ceiling fixtures for the same reason.
Steve
We only replaced one of the fluorescents several years ago. The one we used most often is over the sink. I replaced it with this model which is rated for 810 Lumens and 4500K. One was bright enough.
Amazon.com: Starlights T8-18 18-Inch Fluorescent Tube LED Replacement with... (https://www.amazon.com/Starlights-T8-18-18-Inch-Fluorescent-Replacement/dp/B004LFAACI)
Jim
I was blest that the LED conversion had already occurred in the LD, but as I read this thread, it piqued my interest about changes in the stix. When built in 1988 Mother had fluorescent tubes for under-cabinete lighting in the kitchen, & in four closets--the closets had pressure switches in the door frames to go to instant on. I know in the house that this is all on a 120 supply--& that's all I know...I've no idea how a ballast works/etc.
The closet lights generally don't come on--except one, if the door gets left open for an extended period, which I'm thinking it means the ballast finally gets enough juice to warm up & come on??? The light over the kitchen sink was removed years ago, & I'm thinking it must be in series with the lights on either side, because one switch controls all three???
I've read the above discussions about converting in the LD by leaving the ballast in place & wiring around it. This seems like a fairly straightforward process--(e.g., keeping track of white to white/black to black, ground wire, etc.). Is this as simple in a 120 stix application? Could I swap out the non-functioning closet lights that seem to have defective ballasts? How does a ballast work/what does it do, anyway (thought ballast was just to keep a ship balanced)?
Thx for another illuminating discussion...love what I learn here.
Thinking about y'all with the rain/mudslides & other crud out west, & those of y'all dealing with lake-effect snow/etc. in the east--saw some of the mess on the news. So far we've and about fourteen inches of snow & some freezing rain over the past two weeks, & the arctic temp plunge. There's more rain/ice/snow/mix predicted through Thursday, but I can just hunker down inside with the dog..folks around here seem to be more in the doldrums over the Chiefs than the weather. Good luck to all who are out in the crud.
Lynne
I just ordered the replacement tubes from M4, and having them shipped general delivery to the post office in Quartzsite, Arizona.
F. Y. I.
When I spoke to Steve he mentioned that there is a 10% discount code currently for the lights. The code is RV GEEKS WINTER 10.
Ahhh... this comes from not spending enough time IN our rig - I incorrectly quoted the 12" mod
Steve
You need to get out more. And yes, I fully understand why you don't.
Larry
Lynn, you can get LED replacements for 120 VAC fluorescent tubes (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fluorescent+tube&rh=n%3A2314207011&ref=nb_sb_noss). These require you to bypass the ballast and starter and connect the LED tube directly to 120 VAC. I haven't used 'em (got no stick house ;-) --just reporting what I've read in the product descriptions.
Hi Lynne; Your old florescent tubes are probably 'RS' rapid start bulbs. Over time they become resistant to starting when they are supposed to. Also when they are cold they don't want to start as easily. If left on long enough, a spike on the power line (remember the need for surge/spike supressors) will hit at just the right time (peak of the sinewave) and start them. New tubes will fix that, but Costco, and other places sell LED tubes at a reasonable price $20 per pair for 4 foot. They keep the ballast in place, A ballast is just a current limiter. 4ft 18W LED Linear Tube - Glass - Ballast Compatible Only - Plug N Pla –... (https://greenlightdepot.com/collections/4ft-led-tubes/products/4ft-18w-led-linear-tube-glass-ballast-compatible-ul-type-a-1?variant=5921254440998)
Those lights may work on one switch, that doesn't make them in series. One light switch may control one AC socket but you could plug many lights into a plug strip running on that socket. RonB
I changed out all of the fluorescent bulbs with led bulbs from M4 products. I used the "natural" color which is about 4000 kelvin. I purchased one bulb of soft white and one of natural white and decided on the natural color, the other was too warm. The owner, Steve is very knowledgeable. m4@m4sale.com, m4products.com
I changed out all of the fluorescent bulbs with led bulbs from M4 products. I used the "natural" color which is about 4000 kelvin. I purchased one bulb of soft white and one of natural white and decided on the natural color, the other was too warm. The owner, Steve is very knowledgeable. m4@m4sale.com, m4products.com
Did you use 1 or 2 LED bulbs in the fixtures?
Chris
I replaced the two fluorescent lamps with led lamps. When you figure there are 7 of them in a 30' IB, it is a little pricey. Puts out a lot of light and the natural color is pleasing.
I replaced the two fluorescent lamps with led lamps. When you figure there are 7 of them in a 30' IB, it is a little pricey. Puts out a lot of light and the natural color is pleasing.
Do you think you could get by with one per fixture? Have you tested with just one?
Chris
Do you think you could get by with one per fixture? Have you tested with just one?
Most folks are happy with one tube per fixture, you can always go back and add a second tube to a fixture that needs more light.
Make sure to get a color temperature that is pleasing to you, everyone has their own preferences .
Larry
The replacement LED tubes in my fluorescent fixtures over the couches are single tubes; plenty of light with just one tube there. The fixture over the sink has two tubes; one needs plenty of light for galley tasks!
Fiat lux!
Do you think you could get by with one per fixture? Have you tested with just one?
Chris
For the only one we have under the sink the one light seems brighter than the original two. I wouldn't want another.
Jim