...plugged into shore power.
Does the engine battery (not the house batteries) get charged?
The engine battery does not get charged when running the generator in the standard LD configuration. I believe a few LDO have modified their LD to charge the engine battery off the generator, but I'm not positive.
Hi Ted and Ed; extra power from my solar panels (voltage above 13v), or converter or generator charges my chassis battery. This charger has a 5 amp limit, newer ones I think are more like 10 or 15 amps capability. When sitting in the driveway the truck battery is always topped off. Easy to install, just two wires to the diode isolator, and a ground. RonB
A picture for this chassis battery charger. (Thank you Larry W.) RonB
Starting in about 2014, LD went with the Solar Boost Blue Sky 3000i solar controller. 👍🏼
When the house batteries are fully charged, charging current is then directed to the chassis battery.
So, if you have the Blue Sky controller, and if the house batteries are charged, and if the generator is running (or if its a sunny day, or if you're connected to shore power) , then the chassis battery would be charged.
Ed
Starting in about 2014, LD went with the Solar Boost Blue Sky 3000i solar controller. 👍🏼
When the house batteries are fully charged, charging current is then directed to the chassis battery.
If upgrading or replacing an old controller, it is well worth the extra money to find a controller that also charges the starting battery.
Sky Blue 3000i
Amazon.com: 12V/30A 400W MPPT Solar Boost 3000i Solar Charge Controller... (https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Boost-Charge-Controller-SB3000i/dp/B0179V9JQI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488841222&sr=8-1&keywords=Solar+Boost+3000i+Solar+Charge+Controller+SB3000i)
A cheaper PWM controller that charges the starting battery. I have no experience with its performance and cannot make a recommedation.
Go Power controller
Amazon.com: Go Power! GP-PWM-30 (https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Go+Power%21+GP-PWM-30)
Larry
May I add if you are going to get the Blue Sky 3000i also get the battery temp monitor (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sky-Energy-Battery-Temperature/dp/B007S3HWDA/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B007S3HWDA&pd_rd_r=57WX7QTK0KBY11CC9CKV&pd_rd_w=q9kHD&pd_rd_wg=OUeU3&psc=1&refRID=57WX7QTK0KBY11CC9CKV). Great addition and well worth the price.
Starting in about 2014, LD went with the Solar Boost Blue Sky 3000i solar controller. 👍🏼
When the house batteries are fully charged, charging current is then directed to the chassis battery.
So, if you have the Blue Sky controller, and if the house batteries are charged, and if the generator is running (or if its a sunny day, or if you're connected to shore power) , then the chassis battery would be charged.
Our LD is 2009 and does not have this feature. I can see so much benefit to keeping the chassis battery fully charged. Any idea the cost of this upgrade?
The prices of the Blue Sky 3000i by itself, i.e., no mount, no installation, no wiring upgrade (if necessary) are listed on the manufacturer's site and on AM Solar's website:
Blue Sky Energy Inc. | Pricing (http://www.blueskyenergyinc.com/pricing/)
Blue Sky Solar Boost 3000i (http://amsolar.com/rv-charge-controllers/cctlr-bs-mpp-030a)
You might want to consult the experts (the manufacturer, AM Solar, and the gurus on this forum) re: making sure your currently installed converter (and batteries) are "compatible" with the 3000i before ordering the unit.
Our LD is 2009 and does not have this feature. I can see so much benefit to keeping the chassis battery fully charged. Any idea the cost of this upgrade?
Go back and look at post #5. it provided the links to Amazon where both of them are available.
Larry
Go back and look at post #5. it provided the links to Amazon where both of them are available
I'd seen that information but I'd expect the installation would be much more. I'm going to call one of the companies Joan mentioned for a parts and installation price.
Unless your present solar controller is broken, why would anyone replace it at $300+ just to charge the chassis battery? This Trik-L-Start is $30, easy to install and works great. It is completely sealed and meant to be under the hood. It is a sophisticated multistage charger. Your chassis battery is charged directly by the engine alternator, and if your isolator works right, should never be that discharged. I leave my GPS on for days plugged in to the power point on the dash, even before I put in this 'maintainer'. Anything that charges your house battery, be it shore power or generator, or solar will push a little into your chassis battery to keep it fully charged. RonB Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html)
I put a 3000i controller in my 2003 RB 21/2 years ago when my controller stopped working. It has the extra charge output that could used for the engine battery. As far as I know there would not be any wire going from the 3000i to the engine battery, so one would need to be added. Does that sound correct, and has anyone added such a wire?
Anything that charges your house battery, be it shore power or generator, or solar will push a little into your chassis battery to keep it fully charged.
Very helpful Ron. I followed the link in your post and that information is very interesting. One question please. How did you connect the TRIK-L-START to the house batteries? Look forward to hearing from you and thanks in advance for your guidance.
Hi Ed or Margie. There has been a thread about the diode battery isolator recently, and that is it in my picture. One of the leads goes to the engine battery, the center comes from the alternator, and the other goes to the house batteries. I put that red vinyl cap on the terminal to help prevent contact with grounded wrenches. The yellow fuse holders is for the car radio, and the CB radio. Follow those wires to the back terminal, which should be the house batteries. I moved the Radiator reservoir out of the way to get better access. The hoses allow it to be moved somewhat.
The red cap you can see is the blue wire (starting battery). The one in back is the house battery, also with a red cap. The yellow wire goes there, to join the yellow CB/radio wires. The black wire goes to a ground. I drilled a hole in the fender. I made sure the screw head didn't interfere with the hood closing. It has lights on it to show when it is maintaining the starting battery.
I used a 2"x2" piece of aluminum angle to mount the maintainer brick. Brick screwed on to angle, then angle screwed to hood lip, driver side.
Winnebago liked it well enough to buy the company, and I've seen them already installed on new RV's from the factory.
Standard boiler plate warnings about batteries, but you won't actually need to be close to them. Some installations might be right on top of a battery, hence the warnings. I didn't disconnect anything, but have to be careful not to short anything to ground. RonB
My 1994 mid bath generator onan 4.0 charges my house batteries not my starter battery.