Need to know the placement of all the wires on battery isolator.
MANGO702000-
What year and model LD? Can you provide a picture of the battery isolator and the wires that are nearby?
Our 1997 mid-bath did not have a battery isolator.
Mark H
2005 RB
I have 4 terminals one terminal unknown
Over the years, LD used different isolators - some were simple relays, other a diode type - but terminal arrangements varied. As Mark said, posting a picture of it would be very helpful.
Steve
Redirect Notice (https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjTpLKdq8LSAhWm0YMKHRaRB7IQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F130-AMP-Dual-2-Battery-Transpo-Isolator-%2F130587665602&psig=AFQjCNHVju2O56a2yWYNbwKnFjRf9QsTFw&ust=1488905441917769)
The fourth smaller stud is for the exciter circuit on some brands of chassis alternators usully GM. If not needed the Exciter Smaller stud is not used.
EATON's Sure Power 13033A Multi Battery Isolator | Waytek (http://www.waytekwire.com/item/80070/EATON-s-Sure-Power-13033A-Multi-Battery-Isolator-/)
4 wires with terminals
Mark, your link shows an isolator with three terminals, so apparently not the same as yours. Take and post a pic. Note that most isolators actually have the terminals marked, though yours might have them obscured by road film.
Steve
I have a 3 post isolator as in picture. 4 wires with terminals. One wire I don't remember which terminal it goes on.
If there is one small wire with a fuse. maybe it runs the CB. The CB should hook to the #2 stud.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb355/nanemethy/Fall%20Bog/stock.jpg
1 wire I don't remeber where it goes no power on wire.
I take it back- our 1997 did have a battery isolator- a diode one, like MANGO's.
Center connection to the alternator output.
Chassis battery (positive) cable attaches to one output post, house battery (positive) cable to the other output post.
The smaller wire with the ring terminal left over goes (in the factory configuration) on the house battery post. It powers the radio. If you have the CB radio option, there's a second smaller wire with a ring terminal. It goes on the same post. Both of these wires have in-line fuse holders less than a foot from the ring terminals.
I connected both the radio and CB to run off the chassis battery. If you do that there's the chance that you'll drain the chassis battery by leaving the radio and/or CB on too long.
Thank you all.
LD's, 2007 and older, used diodes to isolate the batteries, later models use a solenoid.
The isolator diodes are usually configured with the center terminal going to the alternator, the front terminal used for the starting battery and the rear terminal used for the coach battery.
A smaller wire(s), attached to the front terminal, are for the CB and/or electric entry step.
There usually is a inline fuse in the CB and/or electric step power wire.
Larry
One may identify which terminal on the isolator goes where by:
1) With little or no house battery usage, and with engine turned off. (Results are easier if the house converter or the solar panels are active0.
2) Measure the voltage of the house battery system to ground. Do this either at the battery itself or at the large terminals on the DC distribution fuse board in the power converter.
3) Open the hood and measure the voltage of the chassis battery to ground (the other battery terminal is good). The difference in voltage of the two DC systems is typically greater than a few 10ths of a volt, sometimes a volt or more.
4) Now measure the voltage (to ground) of each isolator terminal. One may now ID each isolator terminals by matching it to the voltage of the individual system. The engine's off, so the isolator terminal with the zero (or near zero) voltage is the connection to the alternator.
5) This will go a long way to ID the situation. It will leave any other terminals on the isolator unidentified. Punt.
Linley
"Punt."
----
A technique I frequently employ! ;)