Did some Ruby maintenance on this day off. I note a new crack eminating from a screw head on the front driver side end cap about two inches long just extending into the curve of the wrap around. I read the archives so have some ideas. However, I was wondering if it would be a good idea to drill a small hole at the end of the crack to "stop the bleeding" and from there use some filler to do a little repair on the crack.
My one and only exchange in my life with Steve Newton was to call and voice concern on the rear endcaps which, through sitting in the hot sun, had "sprung" away from the back of the rig due to expansion/contraction. He assured me that the end caps were more cosmetic than anything and I could stand there and blast that expansion with a hose and it wouldn't get any water in the rig. Thus, I have never stressed much about the end caps.
Thanks for thoughts.
Dave
On a 2004 the end caps indeed should be cosmetic only. Earlier years, like my '92 had raw wood under them, and hence they were critical to keeping the unit sealed.
I would do as you suggest, drill a stopper hole, seal em and don't worry.
Any pictures? Thank you - Dave
Has anyone replaced one of these caps? Kinda curious as to what they cost. I have one that has a ugly spot where the previous owner backed into something.
Sorry, forgot to take a picture. Was going to and then it flew out of my head until I just read your pics request. <sigh>
Will try to get a pic sometime soon.
Here you go Dave, a link to my experience replacing the rear ended caps. The rears cost $535.35 for both sides- that was 4 pieces of plastic, two on each side.
Photos of LD showing what happens when end caps aren't sealed (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=28814.msg159237#msg159237)
It is not a job I would do unless necessary. Many things can go wrong that escalate the whole thing into a PITA.
The Mothership can do a fine job, but it is pricey.
Dave,
I've had good results repairing cracks in plastic parts on boats with this stuff. It is strong and has really good capillary action for sealing cracks that are visible, but turn to small cracks that are difficult to see but still leak.
http://www.captaintolley.com/
Here you go Dave, a link to my experience replacing the rear ended caps. The rears cost $535.35 for both sides- that was 4 pieces of plastic, two on each side.
Photos of LD showing what happens when end caps aren't sealed (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=28814.msg159237#msg159237)
It is not a job I would do unless necessary. Many things can go wrong that escalate the whole thing into a PITA.
The Mothership can do a fine job, but it is pricey.
Wow thanks for sharing those photos!!
Note to self keep things sealed.
(In my experience) Captain Tolley's is good for very small, hairline-type cracks, but for sealing larger areas like end cap gaps, around window frames, etc., Loctite PL S40 and 3M 5200 Fast Cure work well.
I know that some have used Dicor self-leveling and "non-sag" products to seal some areas on the roof; I have not yet, but plan (per Larry's suggestions) to use the non-sag product to re-seal the "sealant cones" around the ladder and aluminum luggage rack "posts" if the rain ever stops!
(In my experience) Captain Tolley's is good for very small, hairline-type cracks, but for sealing larger areas like end cap gaps, around window frames, etc., Loctite PL S40 and 3M 5200 Fast Cure work well.
I know that some have used Dicor self-leveling and "non-sag" products to seal some areas on the roof; I have not yet, but plan (per Larry's suggestions) to use the non-sag product to re-seal the "sealant cones" around the ladder and aluminum luggage rack "posts" if the rain ever stops!
Caption Tolleys is not the right produce for this application, it does not stretch.
The best, permanent solution is to cut a thin strip of Eternabond Tape and use it to cover the crack.
Nothing else will last or stay in place.
Been there, done that.
Do drill a tiny hole at the very end of the crack, to stop it from spreading more.
Larry
"The best, permanent solution is to cut a thin strip of Eternabond Tape and use it to cover the crack."
-----
Little bandaids! ;)
A "fix" that has worked for me.
Use a water based exterior caulk that dries clear. I use the small tubes of DAP Dynaflex 230 Clear. The label says "superior flexibility and crack proof"
Use the blue tape to edge the crack
Use your finger to press the caulk into the crack
Use your wet finger to smooth and remove excess caulk.
Dry with a lint free rag.
Remove tape.
Ed
The eternabond bandaid- what a good idea!
Tip- I have painted eternabond with Oxford white touch up spray to help tone down its whiteness. After two years it is still holding up.
Caption Tolleys is not the right produce for this application, it does not stretch.
The best, permanent solution is to cut a thin strip of Eternabond Tape and use it to cover the crack.
Nothing else will last or stay in place.
Been there, done that.
Larry
NOW you tell me! 😁
-- Jon
I wonder if Marine Tex would work good for patching the cracks.
[quote author=paul banbury date=1487691121 link=msg=16929
It is not a job I would do unless necessary. Many things can go wrong that escalate the whole thing into a PITA.
The Mothership can do a fine job, but it is pricey.
[/quote]
Removing and replacing an end cap is a difficult job, when some or all of the original adhesive is still good.
In 95% of the time, it better and more efficient to repair the existing cap, plus the paint doesn't to be replaced.
The area under the end caps is sealed with polyurethane, any water entering will drain down and out.
This doesn't apply to pre-90 LDs, where the drains were sealed with asphalt emulsion.
The asphalt can fail and lose it seal after 20 years.
Larry
"In 95% of the time, it better and more efficient to repair the existing cap, plus the paint doesn't to be replaced."
The area under the end caps is sealed with polyurethane, any water entering will drain down and out.
This doesn't apply to pre-90 LDs, where the drains were sealed with asphalt emulsion."
What Larry said. It is not a job to do or have done unless necessary.
"The area under the end caps is sealed with polyurethane, any water entering will drain down and out.
This doesn't apply to pre-90 LDs, where the drains were sealed with asphalt emulsion."
In our '92 the wood under the end cap was not sealed in any way at all. Raw wood, and many crevices for water to run. Seems I read in some posts about this, that there was a mandate from one of the LD owners to use less sealant, costs were getting out of hand. The shop guys stopped sealing under the end caps when they were being watched. Could be a myth. Whatever, mine was unsealed, and consequently rotted when end caps failed.
I wonder if Marine Tex would work good for patching the cracks.
The problem with using sealants or epoxy is the cap is subjected to large thermal and mechanical stresses that cause expansion, contraction and twisting.
If the forces are great enough to crack an extremely durable plastic cap, glue and sealants can't compete. Since eliminating the the stresses that caused the cracks isn't possible, you can only deal with the results.
I have tried several fixes on cracked end caps and the only thing that has lasted several years is Eternabond Tape. YMMV
Larry
"
"The area under the end caps is sealed with polyurethane, any water entering will drain down and out.
This doesn't apply to pre-90 LDs, where the drains were sealed with asphalt emulsion."
In our '92 the wood under the end cap was not sealed in any way at all. Raw wood, and many crevices for water to run. Seems I read in some posts about this, that there was a mandate from one of the LD owners to use less sealant, costs were getting out of hand. The shop guys stopped sealing under the end caps when they were being watched. Could be a myth. Whatever, mine was unsealed, and consequently rotted when end caps failed.
Interesting that the sealing of the end caps has evidently been more haphazard than I had assumed .
Bottom line, no matter what, if anything, was used to seal the area under the end caps, keeping the end caps well sealed is the best approach.
Larry
With all of this end cap discussion and owning an '88MB, I am concerned. In its past life it looks like the roof caps were sealed with eternabond leveling caulk. The caulk cracked alog the cap and aluminum sheet joint. The original asphalt eoozed up through caulk. I filled the crack with dicor no sag just before the SF Bay Area rains started. And it looks like asphalt is eoozing form under the end caps and moss is growing at the joint.
Do you more experienced owners have thoughts on determining the need for resealing?
After reading this thread I'm more convinced than ever that it's a wise decision to let the Mothership handle work of this nature. Just as I drove from the SF Bay Area to Montclair to have them replace my recently defunct fridge, while there I made an appointment for this coming October to do an end-cap reseal along with that of every roof penetration. :(
Just today I was futzing around the rig, trying to best remedy what I'll describe as benign neglect! I was amazed at the beating the front facing surfaces of the coach body, just behind the driver/passenger doors, take from flying missiles as you drive down the road. I have learned to give gravel trucks a very wide berth if possible. One such missile impacted that leading edge just inches from my left ear... I thought I'd been shot.
And, along with the other injuries I discovered a horizontal crack in the driver side end cap, cause unknown! >:(
"I have learned to give gravel trucks a very wide berth if possible. One such missile impacted that leading edge just inches from my left ear... I thought I'd been shot."
It is amazing how loud those impacts are!!
We had a hit on our trip a couple weeks ago. Stopped at the next safe place to look for damage. The impact sound was so loud I expected a baseball size dent somewhere. But all we found was a dime size dent on the drivers side flare out area.
Hi Steve S. (Lazy Bones) I was wondering how your appointment in Oct. went with fixing the end caps. I have a 2000 RB and just the past few months I noticed separation on end caps and a few screw cracks. I wish I could fix it myself but I think I need to take it in too! I googled this topic and found Toad Hall webpage which I was looking for.
Repairing a Separated End Cap (https://ultimatecampgrounds.com/~ultimat2/wx2/index.php/lazy-daze/repairing-a-separated-end-cap)
Thanks in Advance on Update
Kathy
Kathy
"...how your appointment in Oct. went with fixing the end caps."
Actually there were two appointments, one in March and the second in October. I had the fridge replaced during the 1st appt. and had Vince look at the end caps and roof vents. It was then that the October date was scheduled. Vince wanted to see how much expansion took place in the interim. Actually, in his opinion, the separation was not serious and only the surface joints required any care. I had hoped that they would have removed the end caps and started from scratch but I also believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. ::)
The roof vents were a far different story, they were all removed, reseated and sealed properly. ;D
"The roof vents were a far different story, they were all removed, reseated and sealed properly. "
One reason I bought my 2000 was because the previous owner had all vents replaced at factory. So I guess I need an appointment. Quick question how many days did you leave it there to have it fixed?
"...how many days did you leave it there..."
Vince had told me it might take five days but as I was staying at the Pomona Fairplex KOA I was able to take it to the factory, drop it off in the morning and pick it up again each afternoon. His time estimate was overly generous and I was free to go mid-way on the third day. :)
"But all we found was a dime size dent on the drivers side flare out area."
Duro
I've got one of those! That front facing surface acts as a great big 'Catcher's Mitt'. :o ;D