Chris's value chart is a lifesaver. One thing I don't know is how much to deduct from the value for high miles, like 55k miles vs. 95k miles for a 24' 90's rig? If anyone wants to chastise me again for asking too many or redundant questions, I'd prefer you ignore me to posting any negative comments. Just walk away.
Thanks.
No chastising here. I think it is subjective, but dependent on the history of the rig. 95,000 mostly highway miles would be preferable to a rig that did a lot of city driving or towing. Was the rig stored mostly indoors or outdoors in the weather?
It's really up to you to determine what an acceptable deduction is, after a good mechanics inspection, of course! As I mentioned, it really helps to know the history of the rig.
Another way to get quantitative idea of the impact of higher miles is to enter the Lazy Daze into the NADA RV site for both the higher mileage coach and the lower mileage coach. The difference in the two quoted values may give you a rough idea how much the extra miles subtract from he value.
Naturally, the quoted final retail value will be low compared to realistic asking and selling prices, but the difference in the values may be useful in determining the impact of the mileage.
Harold
As far as a 90's Lazy Daze, I don't think you can make any kind of decision based on these relatively low mileages.
The one with 95K miles may very well be in the better condition. They would both need a close inspection
by one or more experienced technicians, both chassis and body/appliances.
Thanks everyone. I'm arranging for an inspection because there is a musty smell inside and the first vent nearest the entry is separated and has been leaking. Found 2 other spots around the front cab that looked like drips, though nothing feels wet or soft despite all the rain.
Mimi
Anyone know of a good inspection service on the Central Coast? I can't seem to find anyone.
Anyone know of a good inspection service on the Central Coast? I can't seem to find anyone.
Larry Wade will be in Morro Bay next month. ;D
"I'm arranging for an inspection because there is a musty smell inside and the first vent nearest the entry is separated and has been leaking. Found 2 other spots around the front cab that looked like drips, though nothing feels wet or soft despite all the rain."
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I'd forget the inspection and keep looking; obvious indicators of leaks are big red flags and suggest that there may be structural damage, and that it could be extensive. Locating and repairing this kind of damage can be very expensive!
Joan
Larry Wade will be in Morro Bay next month. ;D
And will be very busy, without taking on any additional responsibilities.
Larry
Regarding mileage, there is no single correct answer.
Personally, I don't trust early 90's engine, trans, running gear systems to be reliable past 150,000 miles. But it I better to have a 90k mile rig that is 20 years old than a super low mile rig that has been sitting neglected. Think of the number of miles per year it has been run.
But I expect to put a lot of miles on my RV.
You are in the realm where a good mechanical inspection is important.
Thanks everyone. No worries Larry. This rig is beyond help, at least from me. It's sad to see such a beautiful rig so mistreated. I think it would easily cost more to fix it than it's worth. While I was disappointed that I didn't know in advance that it was in such bad shape, it was educational going through it. Pictures aren't close to being enough to determine condition issues.
I appreciate everyone's patience with my questions and ignorance surrounding old rigs.
Mimi
" While I was disappointed that I didn't know in advance that it was in such bad shape, it was educational going through it."
And your understanding of the potential pit-falls has grown by leaps and bounds! 8)
"I think it would easily cost more to fix it than it's worth"
There must be an inverse relationship curve between cost of rig and cost of rig-up. I know for me the two costs were equal, and I expected them to be.
I wonder where on the curve most people would like to be? Cost of fix-up = 25% X purchase price?
While I put an amount equal to the cost of the rig into making it right, I derived a lot of enjoyment from the project. So I would deduct 50% of the cost of repair for my entertainment. Not the right path for most people.
I wonder where on the curve most people would like to be? Cost of fix-up = 25% X purchase price?
While I put an amount equal to the cost of the rig into making it right, I derived a lot of enjoyment from the project. So I would deduct 50% of the cost of repair for my entertainment. Not the right path for most people.
While you enjoyed using skills most do not have, if you had paid yourself $100+ an hour, the rate most RV shops charge, it would have been a lot more than 25% of the purchase price.
If given my choice between buying an RV with known mechanical issues or noticeable rot, I would pick the mechanical.
By the time rot becomes evident, it may have spread and structurally damaged the frame.
Proper repair can involve removing parts of the side walls, the front cap or pulling a section of the roof off, none of which is easy or cheap.
It's dirty, disgusting work and can be very disappointing to find that most of the cab or a wall's framing has turned into compost.
Larry
Ah, if only I could pay myself $100 an hour. I never can get the math to work! When I work, I get paid nicely, but when I don't work, I get in trouble so my time spent on projects is less costly than therapy.
By all means anyone who doesn't want to work on a project should wait, save and buy the newest, lowest mileage coach possible.
I don't mean to imply that I have any rare or special skills. In fact, all I know about Lazy Daze I learned right here, the best LD research tool anywhere! Personally, the mechanical and electrical side is more daunting to me.
But like I said, that's not the right path for most people. Put another way, YMMV
I have to add we embarked on our project because the purchase price was right, mechanic were good, and mileage was low, to the point of the OP
No chastising here. I think it is subjective, but dependent on the history of the rig. 95,000 mostly highway miles would be preferable to a rig that did a lot of city driving or towing. Was the rig stored mostly indoors or outdoors in the weather?
It's really up to you to determine what an acceptable deduction is, after a good mechanics inspection, of course! As I mentioned, it really helps to know the history of the rig.
I've been reading more about how towing can fry an engine, depending upon what was being towed. I'm going to pay attention to that more now. Didn't think of it until your post and others in different threads. Thank you.
Larry Wade will be in Morro Bay next month. ;D
Larry would probably smell the rot from the freeway! No need to stop:-)