Hi all,
I was just wondering if there was a place in a 1988 22' LD to install a generator if it didn't come with one from the factory.
Thank you.
Mimi
I was just wondering if there was a place in a 1988 22' LD to install a generator if it didn't come with one from the factory.
Yes but it is going to be very expensive $$$$.
Mounting trays are not available for your rig anymore, so you will need to find a used one or have one made.
It's huge job. If you want a generator, find an LD with one.
You can thank me later.
And if you think that maybe a small portable generator will do the trick, they have all sorts of problems too.
Such as where to store the gas and how to keep the generator from disappearing, even when chained to a mean dog .
Searching any of the topics that you have as newbie will provide you with a wealth of information.
The LD Companion too is great place to send some quality time, learning about LDs.
Larry
Yes but it is going to be very expensive $$$$.
Searching any of the topics that you have as newbie will provide you with a wealth of information.
The LD Companion too is great place to send some quality time, learning about LDs.
Larry
Well, you don't have to hit -me- over the head with a hammer.:-) I think I'll let that little LD I saw just pass me by:-) Yes, I'll start studying the the LD Companion, immediately.:-) Thanks.
...chained to a mean dog rofl
Mimi
In the older LDs with generators watch your GVWR closely. Those things are heavy, and the E350 chassis don't have a lot of excess capacity, especially the 26-1/2 model.
In the older LDs with generators watch your GVWR closely. Those things are heavy, and the E350 chassis don't have a lot of excess capacity, especially the 26-1/2 model.
I do want to tow my Honda Element, so I was concerned about this. I did read about other people with LD's from the 80's towing cars without any problem, but I was a little leery about it. Maybe a V-10 is the minimum I should look at since I'm towing? I don't need to go fast, but I don't want to have problems getting out of the way if need be.
Guys might look at it differently, but if I wanted to tow, I would DEFINITELY not consider less than a V-10. This means a newer model year, with the accompanying improvements. I've had a 1985 TK and now a 2005 RB - there are lots of differences in those twenty years.
The price of an older rig may seem attractive, but you will "pay" with almost certainly required extra maintenance and fix-ups to bring it up to a safe and reliable standard. If at all possible, buy in the 2000's model years. You will be glad you did.
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Two other opinions, worth exactly what you've paid:
1. I see many cable-TV vans (Chevy work vans's, for instance) with an Onan tucked between the frame rails, where the spare tire usually hangs. If that chassis has room there, at least you know that there exists a mounting solution that is road-worthy and pre-engineered. Whether you can find and buy one is another matter, of course. And the wiring/inverter/switcher issue remains as well.
2. If the LD has a 'continental kit' for the spare tire, you could move the spare to below the vehicle (like a Suburban or pickup) and install a couple Honda 2000 eu inverter generators in a rack within that cavity, and plumb a 10/12 gal fuel cell as backup gas storage, underneath as well. Surgery still involved, but they would be hidden from the casual observer, and extra gas storage would be pretty safe in a fuel cell. Wiring would be easiest via standard input, and you'd probably have to remove them from the rack for use.
Finding one with an installed generator is always the easier solution, of course.
Chip
Dissenting view on the V10. I do and would not hesitate to tow with a 460 Ford. Plenty of torque and HP. Tranny is not bullet proof but can be made stronger and is adequate. Only issue is the GVWR on the old E350.
1. I see many cable-TV vans (Chevy work vans's, for instance) with an Onan tucked between the frame rails, where the spare tire usually hangs. Whether you can find and buy one is another matter, of course. And the wiring/inverter/switcher issue remains as well.
2. If the LD has a 'continental kit' for the spare tire, you could move the spare to below the vehicle (like a Suburban or pickup) and install a couple Honda 2000 eu inverter generators in a rack within that cavity, and plumb a 10/12 gal fuel cell as backup gas storage, underneath as well.
Each LD has a particular spot for the generator, no matter if it's there or not.
They are engineered for a particular generator, based upon the available carrier mount.
These mounts are no longer available and generic mounts, such as what service truck use either will not fit or will need modification. The older LDs were designed to fit Onan Emerald generators, which are no longer available.
A later model generator can used but will require extensive work to make it fit.
This is going to be a big job, meaning a big bill, unless the owner has the technical ability to do it themselves.
As for storing two Honda 2000s in the spare tire area, there isn't enough height available plus that's where the spare tire is mounted in most LDs. Most LDs have a holding tank under the rear end and do not have room available to hang a spare tire.
Installing a fuel cell is also going to be a big deal, especially figuring out how to fuel it safely.
This topic been beat to death on the forum, over the last 15 years. There isn't an easy way to add a generator
Most purchasers of older LDs usually do not have the several thousand dollars needed to properly install a generator, if they did, they probably would wise up and buy a newer rig, that already has a generator.
That said, many of us owned older LDs and lived without generators, even when solar systems were limited in size.
With several solar panels, you can have most of the power you need, as long as if A/C isn't a necessity .
Larry
Dissenting view on the V10. I do and would not hesitate to tow with a 460 Ford. Plenty of torque and HP. Tranny is not bullet proof but can be made stronger and is adequate. Only issue is the GVWR on the old E350.
The 460 V8 and E4OD transmission are OK but the later 6.8-L V10s and 4L100 transmissions are better, in both performance and longevity.
The E4OD wasn't known for it's longevity but it was redesigned, resulting in the 4L100 transmission.
Next generation drivetrains usually have significant upgrades.
If buying rig with a 460 V8, do have the exhaust manifolds inspected for warping and/or leakage.
Larry
Guys might look at it differently, but if I wanted to tow, I would DEFINITELY not consider less than a V-10. This means a newer model year, with the accompanying improvements. I've had a 1985 TK and now a 2005 RB - there are lots of differences in those twenty years.
The price of an older rig may seem attractive, but you will "pay" with almost certainly required extra maintenance and fix-ups to bring it up to a safe and reliable standard. If at all possible, buy in the 2000's model years. You will be glad you did.
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Well Judie, I'm with you there. I'd like to have 400hp in my LD whether I use it or not!:-) I'd like to have 400hp in my Element! I do like the idea of having too much power vs too little power, but I just don't want to spend that much money on my rig. I'm looking for a good, solid LD, the best I can find, from the early 90's. I know I'll have to put money into it but, I was planning on that anyway so, I'll just have to give it a try and see what happens!:-)
Thanks...
Mimi
Two other opinions, worth exactly what you've paid:
1. I see many cable-TV vans (Chevy work vans's, for instance) with an Onan tucked between the frame rails...
Finding one with an installed generator is always the easier solution, of course.
Chip
Chip, that all sounds so scary to me.:-) I can picture dropping my generator on the freeway as I'm driving because I picked the wrong guy to do the work! lol You are far more astute at these mechanical things than I am so, I will probably try to find one with a generator because things will certainly get messed up if I'm left to handle this myself! :-)
Thank you...:-)<---laughing at my acute lack of mechanical understanding and ability>
Mimi
Dissenting view on the V10. I do and would not hesitate to tow with a 460 Ford. Plenty of torque and HP. Tranny is not bullet proof but can be made stronger and is adequate. Only issue is the GVWR on the old E350.
Is there a reference document in the forum that would help me determine whether or not a 460 Ford can pull my Element? I don't want to sell it if I can avoid it. If I love my LD, then I'll do what's necessary to bolster things so I can keep my car.
Thanks...
Mimi
The 460 V8 and E4OD transmission are OK but the later 6.8-L V10s and 4L100 transmissions are better, in both performance and longevity.
If buying rig with a 460 V8, do have the exhaust manifolds inspected for warping and/or leakage.
Larry
Okay and should the transmission be tested as well? Who does these kinds of inspections? How do you find someone who is qualified to work on an older 460 Ford?
Thanks...
Mimi
Mimi I have found transmission shops to work on various vehicles by asking local antique and show car owners at club meetings, which are often held at local Walmarts, banks, dealers. Then I visit the shop and inquire how many of my model trans they have worked on, and for referrals to fleet businesses like ambulances, logging companies. This has worked out great for me.
I have no problem with our local Ford dealer, and a couple of small shops who work on, again, logger's trucks. I like to patronize clean, organized shops with techs who are not pissed off at work. Experienced ones who don't rely on the computer for their analysis of a problem.
Opuntia, no shame in wanting to shy away.
But as a data point, here's what Onan considers highway-safe for one of their other generators:
Cummins Onan Underfloor Mounting Kit Microlite KV - Norwall PowerSystems (http://www.norwall.com/products/Cummins-Onan-Underfloor-Mounting-Kit-Microlite-KV.html?cid=google_feed&dfw_tracker=6374-403-2689&gclid=CLG6jI6h_tACFRC4wAod-IENOA)
4 bolts (in shear) to the generator bottom plate, 4 bolts (in tension) thru floor, presumably with washers/plates to distribute the load somewhat, and two diagonal braces to minimize oscillation. The prevention of small movements is important, as it guards against metal fatigue, hardening, and subsequent cracking. Were I to engineer something myself, I think I would go a little further than their offering, basically for control of the item in the event of a crash. Lots of inertia in that item. I would tend to mimic commercial frame mount trailer hitches. I would tend not to mimic LD's frame extension techniques.
Here's a brochure outlining other mounting options, including slide-out mounts for full service access. Won't work thru a standard LD access hole, of course, but it gives you an idea of what's possible if you, or your service professional, choose to go down that path.
Note that there are similar undercoach frame-rail mounting systems for coach batteries, too, that would allow you to bulk up on battery capacity for longer genny-free operation. Service access is not as convenient, and they are still heavy, so you have to consider that.
And, since it's been noted that the topic has been done to death, a search of previous posts should show both successful and unsuccessful approaches to the problem. How much stuff is packed beneath the coach varies from model to model. There's still a surprising amount of room beneath my shorty 2000 FL.
Chip
Opuntia, no shame in wanting to shy away.
But as a data point, here's what Onan considers highway-safe for one of their other generators:
Cummins Onan Underfloor Mounting Kit Microlite KV - Norwall PowerSystems (http://www.norwall.com/products/Cummins-Onan-Underfloor-Mounting-Kit-Microlite-KV.html?cid=google_feed&dfw_tracker=6374-403-2689&gclid=CLG6jI6h_tACFRC4wAod-IENOA)
...And, since it's been noted that the topic has been done to death, a search of previous posts should show both successful and unsuccessful approaches to the problem. How much stuff is packed beneath the coach varies from model to model. There's still a surprising amount of room beneath my shorty 2000 FL.
Chip
I've always worried about modifying factory installed equipment because, unlike you, I don't have the expertise to insure it's done correctly or, whether it should even be done at all. From everything I've read, it seems feasible, but do I want to add strain to a transmission and engine that is already taxed by towing a car? I think I might be asking for trouble and I truly to try to avoid that these days.:-) I am ashamedly backing away.:-)
Thanks....
Mimi
Mimi,
I'm not in love with on-board generators, although I have two. I did remove a generator from an RV because it was a PITA and replaced it with a portable. I turned the generator space into storage and discovered that portable is the way to go for me.
Honda makes a couple of really nice portable generators. The EU2000 is one of the most reliable generators I have owned. The EU300 is even nicer and is super quiet. It is really nice to be able to drop the generator at a lawnmower shop for a tune up vs. having to drop the entire RV at a RV mechanic for a generator tune up.
The only things I use a generator for are the microwave and the AC. Often, we take trips and don't use the generator at all. Putting a portable on a trailer hitch mounted carrier is really easy as long as you lock it down. Very simple solution.
That's my .02.
Harold
Mimi,
I did remove a generator from an RV because it was a PITA and replaced it with a portable. I turned the generator space into storage and discovered that portable is the way to go for me. Putting a portable on a trailer hitch mounted carrier is really easy as long as you lock it down. Very simple solution.
Back to the question, where do your carry a sufficient amount of gasoline safely?
You don't want to store it in the exterior storage compartments, in case a can leaks. A gas can on the rear bumper is like a having a bomb sitting there, waiting for someone to tail end you.
Same goes for storing the gas cans in a toad, leaks happen. A gasoline soaked interior will stink for many months, not to mention the fire or explosion factor.
As to locking a portable down, generators are equal to cash and folks will go a long way to steal them, especially Hondas.
A simple lock can be cut in seconds, with a pair of bolt cutters. Even high-tech cable locks can be removed easily, if you know how.
Ask Andy how long he owned his chained and locked Honda 2000.
Larry
Larry,
All good points.
We rarely carry more gasoline than just a full tank in the generator since we are not compulsive (frequent) generator users. When it gets low, we fill it at a gas station.
As far as theft is concerned, I agree that it is a very real problem for many. I put a steel bracket inside the red plastic cover and then cable it down. No problem yet in 34 years with two generators. It might be important that the German Shepherd inside is a good alarm for people lurking around our rig and woke us once when we were being robbed in Mexico. Our Mexican nocturnal visitors were VERY unhappy to meet the dog when I let him out and beat a hasty retreat. Seven Shepherds have been our companions for 34 years on almost all of our travels. Our boats, fifth wheel, campers and Lazy Daze wouldn't feel right without a coating of dog hair.
Portable still works the best for me.
Harold
There is likely an easier generator to steal. Toby likes his generator.
Loved the picture of "Toby"! If he doesn't bite the perp I see that he has other tools as well. ;D
"Ask Andy how long he owned his chained and locked Honda 2000."
Six hours. :-(
That must be a record!
One wonders of the non-genny-equipped LD chassis would have the generator-supply dip tube installed in the vehicle fuel tank, whether or not the generator was installed... If so, access to the coach fuel supply may be possible with an auxiliary pump. Quick disconnect or a fuel spigot of some sort (highway approved, of course) would make generator gas storage nearly as safe as vehicle fuel storage.
Regarding security of portable generator --- 6 hours? Ouch. So that's a bit over $100/hour, then.
Chip
Stupid question here but I have searched and cant find the answer. I recently purchased an 1984 22ft tk. I was told it had a generator but it did not. Because I live in the HOT desert, several hours drive in any direction to cooler weather, I do need an on the road AC. I intend on purchasing a generator to run it. There is somewhat of a rack on the roof of the LD. Would it be possible to put a genny up there? Are there gennys that are short enough? Are there reasons that would not be a good idea? Thank you
Yes but it is going to be very expensive $$$$. Mounting trays are not available for your rig anymore, so you will need to find a used one or have one made. It's huge job.
And if you think that maybe a small portable generator will do the trick, they have all sorts of problems too.
Such as where to store the gas and how to keep the generator from disappearing, even when chained to a mean dog.
Hello Teresa. Larry W. offered this guidance to another LDO who had essentially the same question you asked. So I did a cut & paste of his guidance for your review. Regardless of where or how someone tried to install a generator in their LD, it's going to be most difficult and rather expensive. Hope this helps.
I recently purchased an 1984 22ft tk. Because I live in the HOT desert, several hours drive in any direction to cooler weather, I do need an on the road AC.
Doesn't the dash A/C work?
Pre-cool the rig at home, using shore power and then use the dash A/C until you get to cooler climes or someplace with power.
Larry
It's still at the shop where I bought it. I havent gotten it back yet. Among the list, I told them to change out the air conditioner to the new stuff instead of the old illegal stuff. It should be working when I get it back. Do you think the dash air and the swamp cooler combined will be enough in the desert heat?
Hello Teresa. Larry W. offered this guidance to another LDO who had essentially the same question you asked. So I did a cut & paste of his guidance for your review. Regardless of where or how someone tried to install a generator in their LD, it's going to be most difficult and rather expensive. Hope this helps.
I had seen that, but did not know the post was referring to putting a generator on the roof? I thought it was for in one of the outside compartments....
I did find out that the rack up there is rated to hold 180 pounds.....
Larry will reply for himself, of course, but I can’t imagine he’d ever consider installing a generator on the roof. How would one get gas to it? How to route the output power line? Drill more holes in the roof to secure it? Aerodynamics? Unsightly? Yikes! —Jon
Hi Teresa: No you can't put a generator on the roof. In addition to the other problems, it would just weigh too much. I'm not sure about the Chevy chassis location but if it is the same as my Ford, you would have had the optional, that year, generator mounted under the floor, just aft of the steps and the coach door. (You do have a generator, but these days they are called an alternator and it is part of the engine.) If your LD wasn't ordered with a generator, you may have just an empty space there. The fuel tank would still have the dip tube, but it would be capped off. Sometimes previous owners have the generator stolen, or don't want to pay to have it fixed. Are you sure you don't have one anyway? Or did it used to have one?
The replacement engine air conditioner fluid isn't illegal to have, as long as it came with the vehicle. You still can get the old refrigerant R-12, with a hefty tax to encourage you to upgrade. Only a registered repair facility can put in the old stuff, and they have to make sure there aren't any leaks in the system. Not all air conditioning systems can be upgraded to R-134A. I just had my '92 Tracker upgraded to R134D. Those new Freon's are less efficient, and you lose about 35% of capacity. Newer cars are designed to use the R-134A, so they cool as well as the older cars. RonB
I had seen that, but did not know the post was referring to putting a generator on the roof? I thought it was for in one of the outside compartments....
The discussion referred to was about adding a generator in the spot where LD normally installs them, below the floor.
I would never suggest putting a portable generator on top of the roof, fueling it could be nightmare in the making.
You could carry a portable generator on a rear bumper rack but the theft issue is too hard to overcome.
No amount of locks and chains will deter the generator thieves, they come equipped with the tools needed.
A large percentage of campgrounds we visit have signs warning of generator thieves.
Portable generators are like cash and get ripped off regularly. It helps support the transient crowd.
Larry
The thieving problem was why I was thinking maybe about the roof...... in an aluminum box with venting up there doesnt seem an easy nor obvious mark for thieves. The gassing would have to be done by ladder or run a line with a pump to the fuel tank. And use a remote start generator. But I guess no........ sigh........ Well the swamp cooler is still up there at least. After I get it out of the mechanic, next stop is mothership and an RV specialist to go over the house part. Hopefully the swamp cooler still works and with the dash air running too, will be enough to cool us down in 120 degree weather........
Teresa,
Hopefully you will overcome the generator issue. As I understand it, installing one where one should have been but wasn’t initially installed is very difficult.
That being said, certain things can be done to mitigate some of the suns heat. Many people use reflective material installed inside the coach covering the windows. Draping a packing blanket between the truck cab and the coach can also keep some heat from entering the living area.
Insulating the roof vents can also hold back some heat. Snap on vent covers are often used to seal the vents and can aid in keeping the vent insulation in place.
Fantastic Fan makes portable 12 volt box fans that can be plugged into a 12 volt coach outlet. Careful using the 12 volt outlets on the cab dash as those are currently powered by the truck chassis battery. Using them too much will likely leave you stranded. Ask me how I know...😫 The Fantastic Fan Portable fans are nice but not super powerful.
Hot is hot so staying inside the rig during the summer heat may be ill advised. Perhaps a nice breeze under a tree during daylight hours could help stave off the heat.
Once back in the rig after sundown it would be advisable to open some windows and get some air circulation going. These details are most likely obvious, but sometimes overlooked.
Good luck with your NuToU LD and safe travels.
Kent
Hi Teresa; Running both the swamp cooler and the air conditioning won't work. A swamp cooler has to have a continuous supply of dry air from outside. Water is mixed with moving air, and when the water turns to vapor it absorbs heat energy (latent heat of vaporization) and cools the air. It relies on new dry air from outside. The old air when it warms up is more humid, and is exhausted outside. Preferably out a window near where you are sitting. Not much power is needed, just a fan to move the air, and a supply of water. If the outside air is already humid, the cooler works poorly or not at all. Deserts like Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico can work well, but even they have monsoon weather sometimes. That is why swamp coolers have fallen out of favor.
An air conditioner works the opposite way. It actually refrigerates by pumping the heat outdoors onto the roof. Freon is the transfer medium. It takes a lot of power, but can actually remove water from the air. The evaporator coils can condense water from the indoor air, and the water drips out of the A/C, hence 'lake Newton'. In the motorhome the drier air is recirculated, and heat is gained through the walls, ceiling and glass. Introducing more water from a swamp cooler, would just make the A/C work harder to remove it. Refrigeration always works, but takes more power than a battery can provide. (OK, except Elon Musk and his 'Power Wall). A generator, or an external source of AC (somebody elses generator is necessary.
RonB
As in all things, your problem requires a mix of inputs to achieve a sustainable solution.
1. It's too expensive to put an on-board generator in the rig. Crazy ideas like placing it on the roof are a non-starter. Putting it on a rear bumper mount introduces a number of problems. The primary one of course is theft, but also bumper load (I believe your tongue rating is 300 lbs) and weather(ing).
2. The solution then is to get a generator that can be carried & stored inside the RV. However, that means moving it outside when in use. That introduces the weight constraint ie something you're physically capable of getting out the door. That's why the generator of choice is either the Yamaha EF2000iS or Honda EU20i. (One is blue, the other red; I chose team blue.)
3. The problem, however, with these two is they don't produce enough output to power your coach AC. Both companies make a 3000 which can, but it's bigger and too heavy for one person to really move around. So, that means you can power everything else in your rig, and fully re-charge batteries within a 1-2 hr window, but you won't have AC.
4. If you really must have AC, then that means you need to stay somewhere which has 30/50 amp shore power. If you only need AC while driving to a cooler area, then spend the money to make sure your Chevy AC is working properly. A complete re-build and install runs around $600.
Now, see how easy this logic tree was? Get either of the two gens mentioned above, store it inside, and heft it outside your coach door when charging. (They weigh around 55 lbs.) It only takes around an hour, so that's when you hang out reading or doing chores (they are both incredibly quiet - around 50 decibels in eco mode). Coach AC isn't an option, so either camp in cooler areas, or stay hooked to shore power.
According to the owners manual, tongue weight is 350 pounds. But I will be carrying a wheelchair back there too. The AC would only be used while driving. We live in the HOT and will use the LD to escape it and go to cooler places. In my home we have both a swamp cooler and an air conditioner....... Yes when the LD is not being used, it will be under cover protected from the sun and heat and blowing sand. But anyway, back to the drawing board. Thank you all for your input
One other thing, just so I can explain it. The roof has the rack up there. According to my owner's manual it will hold 180 pounds. Why would a 100 pound generator in a 25 pound aluminum box be too heavy?
You've received detailed advice from experienced people re: the inadvisable notion of carrying a portable generator on a "roof rack" on top of your rig. I have no idea what kind of "roof rack" is up there, but, IMO, the issues go well beyond simply what this roof rack may be able to carry.
Either of the portable generators mentioned, i.e., the Honda or the Yamaha, weigh 45 pounds; one gallon of gas is a little over 6 pounds. A larger generator that could run the AC is going to weigh a lot more! Can you or another manage to climb and come back down the rig ladder carrying a minimum of 45 (or 51) pounds? If you plan to carry a wheelchair on the hitch, would this have to be removed to get up and down the ladder? Where do you plan to carry the gas for the generator? (A potential bomb on the back bumper is a bad idea!)
I hope that you will re-think the "generator on the roof rack" idea, but YMMV.
The rack/roof rating is based on at least two factors: new construction strength and weight distribution.
I can almost guarantee that your wood framed coach has age related issues that would effect that original rating. The chief being water damage - even the slightest intrusion - and the second being termites.
Secondly, the rack is intended for storing things like boxes, suitcases, etc which would presumably be spread out and tied down. A concentrated point from something like a generator would focus all the weight at a single area on the roof. It would have to bear the brunt of any vibration/bounces - in other words, the gen would act like a pile driver on your roof. I wouldn't be surprised if it came straight through the roof after a few hours of bouncing around on a poor road.
Third, you'd have to climb up there to not only add gas, but to connect the coach 30 amp cord each time you used it. That is, unless you go full ghetto and leave it (permanently) connected while driving, etc.
If you or your SO has a disability that would prevent you from (easily) hefting out a 55lb generator, then I would say bite the bullet and mount it on a bumper stand. You say it's rated @ 350#, but again, that's when the RV was new. Take it to a hitch place and have them evaluate and/or beef up.
Then rather than get an expensive, desirable generator like a Honda or Yamaha, get something cheaper from Harbor freight. Do the standard cable & lock, but don't expect miracles - especially if you leave the rig behind in a sketchy place.
Definitely look into spending money on a new GM/Chevy cab AC kit. It's worth the money to have that sucker blowing cool while driving without any hiccups or other problems.
dup
Good explanations :) Thank you gentlemen!
And yes, Iam going to start focusing on researching beefing up the back end. The result would give me an enclosed box that would hold both a heavy generator and a wheelchair. And yes, full getto as it would need to be plugged in while driving down the road to make the air conditioner work....... is that a problem?
And yes, Iam going to start focusing on researching beefing up the back end. The result would give me an enclosed box that would hold both a heavy generator and a wheelchair. And yes, full getto as it would need to be plugged in while driving down the road to make the air conditioner work....... is that a problem?
I think the problem is a lack of clarity. If I understand this last post, your main desire is to use a hitch-mounted generator to power the coach air conditioner while driving along. Others have suggested simply getting the cab AC fixed for such use. That seems to be sound advice. Of course, if your goal is to 1) avoid the cost altogether of repairing the cab AC and then 2) use a hitch generator to power the coach AC for both in-motion and while-camped, I guess there is a logic to that, but the related hassles and costs, IMHO, seem to outweigh the benefits. YMMV, for sure! — Jon
And yes, full getto as it would need to be plugged in while driving down the road to make the air conditioner work....... is that a problem?
Only to the fashion police.
You do need a 3000-watt generator, my brother and I have tried many ways to run his TT’s rooftop A/C. At the beach, a Honda 2000 will start the A/C. Over 5000’, it doesn’t have enough power to start or run. Even if it did start, running at 100% capacity will cause it to overheat. He now owns a Yamaha 3000 Inverter .
Both the Honda and Yamaha 3000s are dependable generators, either would be adequate.
Do lock it up and bolt it to the box and hitch. Make it very difficult to steal.
Larry
Teresa,
You said, “The result would give me an enclosed box that would hold both a heavy generator and a wheelchair”.
Holding the generator inside the box is one thing while operating it while inside the box is something altogether different.
Generators need plenty of fresh air to operate and can become dangerously hot when operated in an enclosure even with what would seem to be adequate ventilation.
I once used foam packing to enclose a Honda generator during my early novice years of Travel Trailer ownership.
The foam “box” was designed to silence the generator and it did. I installed two fans at either end of the box to draw in fresh air and exhaust hot air.
This was not a “Proud moment in North Star History”. When I finally turned off the genny I heard a hissing sound which I could only imagine to be the gasoline boiling. I didn’t attempt to look, but simply walked calmly away and eventually abandoned my “containment field” as folly and a life threatening experience.
After that, to silence the generator, I dragged it 100’ away and locked it to a tree. A 12 gauge extension cord teatherd the generator to the TT.
Sometimes we get lucky and learn from our mistakes without killing anyone or blowing up Yosemite Valley.
I’m sure that the Rangers would have banned me for life if anything had gone further awry. Luckily, they were none the wiser and until now the secret had been safe with me.
Lesson learned.
Kent
Only to the fashion police.
Between #vanlife and the roving homeless population (a big issue here down by the beach), the number of motorhomeless continues to grow. Since these modern day Joads have to park at night, the absolute key is to be as stealth as possible.
Having a class C RV already tags you, but if you have a 30 amp cable hanging along the side of your van from a generator mounted in the back, you definitely will be noticed by the local constabulary.
In my experience watching LEOs deal with the situation, they tend to focus most of their attention on ghetto bandit vehicles. Just a simple field operations test can get the RV cited, booted and/or towed & impounded. I've seen a few resident motorhomeless reduced to full hobo with just a pack on their backs.
It's actually quite a fascinating cat & mouse game. This link demonstrates some of the different tactics used to blend in as much as possible:
Sleeping and Safety | The Vanual (http://thevanual.com/sleeping-and-safety/)
Now, this is not to say the OP has any intention of experiencing #vanlife, but the key is to try and differentiate yourself as much as possible. It's a big deal now in many communities anywhere around destination locations. You don't want the locals to pick you out as an undesirable.
To clear up some confusion, I bought the LD 2 weeks ago near Moreno Valley. I took it straight to a recommended mechanic shop rather then drive it home. It has been at the shop for 2 weeks now getting a complete going over based on many things including a check list I got in this group. Because it is older, I figured this would be smarter then just taking off and driving it home. One of the things being done is changing out the air conditioning system in the dash board to the new stuff as was recommended to me in this group. Although I expect the dash AC to run perfect when I get it back, I do not expect it to cool down the entire coach for hours at a time in the hot desert of 120 degree temperature. I am figuring with 3 people inside, we will need supplement cooling. Additionally I know from experience that older vehicles did not run their best in hot weather by using the dash AC a lot, maybe this will be different though? The box I had thought about putting on the roof rack was something like this, designed for running a generator while in the box Travel Trailer Generator Box | Lawrenceburg | Generator Boxes (https://www.rvgeneratorbox.com/) I would hope it had enough ventilation? I am going to have to shop around but hope to come up with a hitch enclosed case that a wheelchair and a generator can be put in. Maybe the box would need modification to vent properly? And going to the beach and such would only be day trips. We would be going to rv parks mostly. Maybe rarely boondocking. There are 3 of us, all with various disabilities and from time to time another would be traveling with us but she has multiple sclerosis. Hook ups, more space, modern conveniences are all needed and decent sized bathrooms lol
On a level road the dash AC should hurt performance that much. With a new system I’m sure you can cool the RV. Just open the rear most top vent a smidgin. That will draw the hot air out and pull cool air from the dash through the rest of the RV. Years ago Ford coined the name “flow through ventilation”. The biggest problem in cooling a large space is getting rid of the hot air already in the space. Cole Air has a difficult time displacing the hot air. It is simple physics. Even in triple digit weather with 80% humidity the method above cools the RV in a very short time.
Honda EU2000is will power rooftop air -- if you use two of them and the interconnect kit. Total weight is less than the EU3000is, and package is way more convenient. Extended run setups are available, and your chassis probably already has a fuel tap setup for the non-existent Onan unit. The pair of Hondas will be quieter than Onan, too.
Don't overlook a front-hitch solution for generators, if things get crowded out back. They're small enough not to impede airflow too much.
I was reading about how to exhaust hot air using the swamp cooler. It's in the owners manual. I imagine we are going to be doing every trick we can find to cool it down. Thank you for the advice John. Chip yes I have thought about using the front to put stuff, but I really am hoping not to do that. One of the reasons I really wanted this LD is because of the size. I have driven a 27 ft class C and a 40 ft bus conversion, I really wanted something very small at this point in our life. I would have gotten a regular van except one of my travel mates needs to be able to stand and stretch often when traveling long distances and he is over 6 ft tall. I just dont want the extra length. I did look into the Honda's and may still end up getting them but I was hoping for an auto start and the Honda doesnt seem to have that........
I know this is way expensive, but could a Cummings dealer figure out how to install an Onan 4k Micro Quiet Generator? They are shorter and longer than the old Onan Emeralds that would have come on the older LD's.
How about these aproaches?!
(http://www.waldeneffect.org/20120612solarcoolinghat.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/c3QAAOSwcaFZFmc0/s-l400.jpg)
(https://www.chewy.com/exo-terra-mister-portable-pressure/dp/152108?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Exo%20Terra&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwx43ZBRCeARIsANzpzb81JaE31IR-GzE1A995KUNSqXUS-pP9CqbkJ8yR7afEjexkd6O0TMwaAtPPEALw_wcB#pdpGallery)
Pete