I am trying to determine proper dimensions for building a RV garage, so two questions:
1. Are the exterior coach dimensions listed on the LD website for the 2017 models the same for the older models, let's say mid-2000 models?
2. Any feedback from those that either have, or have built, a RV garage would be appreciated. Specifically, I'm trying to determine how much height, width and length beyond the coach dimensions would be adequate? Ideally, there will be enough room on one side for storage of RV related items and a small workbench. I'm told by a contractor that anything higher than 12 ft. sides (not including roof height) requires additional engineering (and costs, of course).
Thanks!
1. Are the exterior coach dimensions listed on the LD website for the 2017 models the same for the older models, let's say mid-2000 models?
In 2008 the overall length grew by some 6" so if you use current sizes, you will be slightly on the conservative side.
Ed
Hi
I am interested in hearing some stats and costs too. I would also want to have it wired for 30 amp so the LD can be plugged in if so desired. We are also considering just a nice carport (brick and concrete tile roof) with two closed sides to block the sun and heat. Wondering about building costs and the increase in property tax after building it. Any info appreciated.
Thanks!
Corky 2014 TK
Two items.
1) if you are limited to a 12' exterior wall the entry door will be a challenge. You will most likely not be able to install a 12' high garage door. Not enough height for the header. A standard 10' door won't be tall enough. Special order sizes/types are available but pricey.
Of course, you could simply build a barn door high enough to squeak under. Two 5' wide x 11' tall doors would work. You will need some serious hinges but there are lightweight building materials available to build the door from.
2) to gain extra interior headroom while maintaining a 12' exterior wall, for working on the RV roof, you can use a scissor truss or a plenum/coffer style truss. Once your span and pitch have been determined, the truss plant can give you a sketch of your options and a price.
Enjoy your project. Wish I had the room to do it now. When I did, a 14' pole barn (easier on the budget) was my choice although we sold the property before it got built.
Ed
Wondering about building costs and the increase in property tax after building it."
Your taxes and property insurance will both increase based partially, on the construction cost you declared when you pulled the permit. Permit info is shared with the appropriate taxing agencies. This does, however, vary from municipality to municipality.
You will want to add the improvements to your homeowners policy just in case.
Ed
Most important rule of building this type of structure- when done, whatever size you built, it is too small.
My barn is 40Lx36W. 200sq ft of this is devoted to an office/studio/guest room. Also, It houses a the 26.5 LD, with room behind it to store misc junk that accumulates, disappears, reacumulates. I park a car inside always. Leftover space makes a very small workshop with a good array of tools. It had no appreciable affect on our property taxes. We live in rural Washington. I'm Not sure of the impact in your local situation.
"I would also want to have it wired for 30 amp so the LD can be plugged in if so desired."
Just be very sure your electrician understands the difference between standard household 30 A outlets and RV 30 A outlets. I've heard a few horror stories from people who had RV ports or garages installed and ended up with incorrect wiring and/or outlets.
We have a 2008 24' FD Lazy Daze, and a 1985 Jeep CJ-7 plus kayaks, bikes, and assorted fishing and other gear. It all fits nicely in a 25' X 30' building with 13' sidewalls, a 12' roll up door for the RV and an 8' for the Jeep. It's heavily insulated with 2x6 framing, heated, and drywalled. Cost was ~30k in 2008. I hope this helps. In our climate it was worth it. The coach is like new. In warmer climates you could probably do it for less. Maybe a metal building?
Larry in Monument
As Andy suggested, it's not uncommon for an electrician unfamiliar with RV requirements to install the wrong type of wiring and/or outlet; the result of an inappropriate installation will go far beyond blown fuses! :o I'd make sure that the installer understands exactly what is required and has the know-how and experience to do the job right.
http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf
RV Electric (http://www.myrv.us/electric/)
Mis-wiring a 120-volt RV outlet with 240-volts | No~Shock~Zone (http://noshockzone.org/accidentally-plugging-into-240-volt-outlet/)
(The last link is a segment from the 12-part "No Shock Zone" series; essential information for RVers, IMO.)
As ever, YMMV.
Joan
Another way, is to future proof your installation and actually install 220v. That is, have a 50 Amp 4 prong RV outlet installed and use an easily obtained 50A to 30A adaptor plug, much like you might need to do on the road at some campgrounds. If it were my installation, I would set it up to look like a campground. 50A and 30A, separate plugs and breakers, might as well throw in a 20A 110v. outlet too. Hopefully the electrician would realize that this wasn't for a dryer and would get the wiring right. I would still check the RV 30A plug for the proper 110V. You might someday have a motorhome with a 50A system, You might have visitors with a 50A system, or (when heck freezes over) Lazy Daze might switch to 50A systems. When the time comes to sell your home, future buyers may want the option of 50A or 30A. RonB
"Hopefully the electrician would realize that this wasn't for a dryer and would get the wiring right."
I hate to see the word "hopefully" used in conjunction with electrical wiring. I would have said "Make damn sure" the electrician realizes this is for an RV, not a dryer! If he or she doesn't--and apparently many do not--then explain it. This website (http://www.myrv.us/electric/) gives the needed information. From what I've read, the consequences of relying on hope in this situation could range from expensive to dangerous.
As I have mentioned before, I told our electrician and the builder it was to be a 30A RV receptacle during our electrical review. Luckily I checked it with a DVM before using. Sure enough it was wired as a 30A drier receptacle (240 VAC). I rewired it myself. Be SURE to check it out!! Also be aware that standard garage door dimensions are for the unfinished opening not the actual final clearance dimensions.
I built our pipe barn at 24 feet wide, 35 feet long, 12 feet tall at the corners and 15 feet tall at the top of the center. Concrete floor. 30 A receptacles all around (3 on each side and back) and water at each side. LED bulbs, 5 on each side and 3 across the back at the 12 foot corners. If I had to do it again, I'd have made it 40 feet long. 24 wide allows a 8'6 fishing boat and the Lazy Daze with 30 inches on each side and about the same between them.
I put shelves 8 feet tall and two feet deep across the back and the kids store their junk between moves and life situations.
I really like the barn and am out there in it nearly every day. If it had a fridge and a bathroom, I might not come into the house at night.
HD
I built our pipe barn at 24 feet wide, 35 feet long, 12 feet tall at the corners and 15 feet tall at the top of the center. Concrete floor. 30 A receptacles all around (3 on each side and back) and water at each side. LED bulbs, 5 on each side and 3 across the back at the 12 foot corners. If I had to do it again, I'd have made it 40 feet long. 24 wide allows a 8'6 fishing boat and the Lazy Daze with 30 inches on each side and about the same between them.
I put shelves 8 feet tall and two feet deep across the back and the kids store their junk between moves and life situations.
I really like the barn and am out there in it nearly every day. If it had a fridge and a bathroom, I might not come into the house at night.
HD
Thanks for your post! Do you have any photos you could share as I'm not familiar with a pipe barn?
LD in pipe barn.jpg
Well, I haven't quite figured out how to include a photo with my reply. Hopefully, I'll figure this out and get you a photo of the pipe barn with the LD inside.
One advantage of metal building construction is a much greater ceiling height due to the greater load bearing strength of the steel trusses vs wood, especially when a heavy snow load is an issue.
You might talk to a contractor that specializes in such buildings.
Have fun.
Ed
I kind of like this design, a Quonset hut, plenty of roof clearance and eye appealing, at least to me.
(http://steelmaster.propervillains1.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/metal-RV-garage.jpg)
And though not as pretty looking, this one is functional and would be easy to do.
(http://steelmaster.propervillains1.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/arizona-a-model-rv-shed-1.jpg)
I'm currently working with a design firm to build a small two stall garage to house a RV. The building will be located on an adjacent empty lot to our home place. The interior length of the garage is about 36' 6". I'm trying to decide if a 12' overhead door is sufficient. Both of the garage doors will be 12' wide. Should I build it with 14' side walls and 12' overhead door or 16' side walls and 14' door. Since we live in an older part of town and the building lot is quite small, the building needs to look proptional to the neighboring single story homes. We can't build the garage any longer in length due to zoning restrictions
Thoughts? My wife is 100% committed to Lazy Daze 31 Twin. Is a 12' door high enough? The approach and driveway will be flat - like all the landscape here in the Red River Valley.
Thoughts ...?
We just built one 30'x40' with 14' ceilings and 12x12 doors and that is plenty big enough for our 30' Laze Daze.
One suggestion if you are using wood trusses.
In order to give you room to crawl around , or work on, the roof of the RV, have the architecture specify a style of roof truss that is commony used in homes with cathedral ceilings, or a tray/raised center style truss.
This may allow you to use lower exterior walls thus keeping the overall cost down plus have the building fit better with the neighborhood.
Plus a high pitch like 5/12 and you will have lots of head room.
A steel roof structure is even better because you have lots of headroom.
Have fun.
Ed
Jay, you may find some information that is useful for your project in this thread:
Dimensions for RV Garage (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=29374.msg164931#msg164931)
Jay,
I built a pipe barn to store our Lazy Daze and another vehicle. It measures 35 feet long by 24 wide and is 12 feet tall at the shoulders and 15 feet tall at the peak. Concrete floor. I wired it all the way around with a high current circuit so I can run the little welder inside and put LED lights along the shoulders and the peak. Changing bulbs (yes LED bulbs do fail) is easy when standing on the Lazy Daze roof. Storage buildings and barns quickly fill up with "stuff". The height is fine, but if I had it to do over again, I'd make it a little longer.
Today's job is to remove the Lazy Daze and use the empty bay to work on another vehicle in the cool interior. I really love the ability to store things as well as work on them out of the elements. Shady on the hot days and dry when it is wet outside. If I had cooking facilities and a bathroom, I might never come into the house. You are going to love your garage!
HD
Jay, our barn has an RV bay that is 40x12, 18’ walls, with a 12’ door. It has been long and tall enough for our Bigfoot camper on the truck, a 34’ trailer, and now our 27’ LD with the John Deere parked in front of it.
When I work on a big project I pull out the RV and expand my shop. There is an attached guest apartment, which we use often.
Next time I will consider a steel building, insulation, lights along the top of the walls, radiant floor heat. And bigger. A shop or shed is never big enough.
Jay, our barn has an RV bay that is 40x12, 18’ walls, with a 12’ door. It has been long and tall enough for our Bigfoot camper on the truck, a 34’ trailer, and now our 27’ LD with the John Deere parked in front of it.
You're breaking my heart Paul. That kind of RV storage isn't even on our wish-list for the next life. I've tried to find inside storage but they're rare and expensive. The best we've been able to do is 34' covered with protection on 3 sides for our 27'. The front of the LD gets a bit of early morning sun and points away from prevailing wind and storms. Inside storage ... oh my!!
For rationalization- my neighbor just sold a 2002 travel trailer for about a $3000 premium because his was stored inside all its life. 😉
For rationalization- my neighbor just sold a 2002 travel trailer for about a $3000 premium because his was stored inside all its life. 😉
Please note I merged the two topics regarding RV storage garages together so as to improve future searches for this information.
Chris
For rationalization- my neighbor just sold a 2002 travel trailer for about a $3000 premium because his was stored inside all its life. 😉
Wonder how much indoors storage cost over the life of a 15 year old trailer?
My guess would be well over $3,000.
Wonder how much indoors storage cost over the life of a 15 year old trailer?
My guess would be well over $3,000.
I have spent on average $100 per month for the last 15 years on covered storage. 100 x 12 x 15 = $18,000. Yikes! I could have probably spent half that on outside uncovered storage, but to me it's been worth it for the preservation of the LD. I also have had electric at this facility which has been a plus. HOA covenants do not allow RVs where I live. I would guess 18k would be a good start on an RV garage.
Chris
I have spent on average $100 per month for the last 15 years on covered storage. 100 x 12 x 15 = $18,000. Yikes! I could have probably spent half that on outside uncovered storage, but to me it's been worth it for the preservation of the LD. I also have had electric at this facility which has been a plus. HOA covenants do not allow RVs where I live. I would guess 18k would be a good start on an RV garage.
Chris
We are reasoning that many folks here build a new lake cottage at this stage of their lives, so us building a RV garage with small one bedroom apartment is our "lake cottage". Hopefully I will be able to at least recoup my land cost and building costs in the future. But though I've been a banker for 30 years...even I don't think everything has to have a payout. Like my grandfather from the farm, I like to have my equipment "shredded"...
Just something to think about for resale, if you build the RV garage so that it can handle a larger RV, you increase your potential market. That means a 14' tall door if the length of the building would allow for a 5th wheel or class A.
I have gone back and forth several times on the issue of justifying the cost of building a garage vs. paying for storage. I have yet to get actual qoutes but a ballpark guesstimate would be in the $40-50k range in our area for a full on garage with insulation, power, and water.
If buying a new LD, this might make sense but does it make sense to protect a used RV that has a depreciating value of say, $40k? Of course, there are other uses for an RV garage beyond simply storing your RV so each person needs to decide if the cost is worth it. I'm finding it hard to justify as there are many other things I could do with $50k.
Much to consider . . .
Just something to think about for resale, if you build the RV garage so that it can handle a larger RV, you increase your potential market. That means a 14' tall door if the length of the building would allow for a 5th wheel or class A.
Very good point! I built a 14x35' cover with concrete slab and sides for our 36' motorhome. A few years later upgraded to a 39' motorhome and had to add an 8' section to the back. Didn't extend the slab since that gave me a nice mini-pit to do oil changes, etc. But the cost to add on to it was much more expensive than what it would have been if I would have built it larger. Luckier I had built it tall enough so the larger coach fit. Always best to plan ahead.
I don't have the property to build an RV garage, but I'm very fortunate to be able to keep my LD in a 'behind a gate' space next to my house; this was a major factor in the decision to get the motorhome in the first place. If I had needed to rely on finding safe, reasonably priced, and convenient off-site storage for it, I would have ordered a Sportsmobile van that I could park in the driveway.
Covered RV storage in the Bay Area is very scarce, very expensive, and has long wait lists for space. And, I get a bit edgy when the rig is on a sleepover at the Ford or other shop! If I had to be concerned on a daily basis about its security and accessibility, I really doubt that I'd have the LD.
YMMV, of course.
If I had needed to rely on finding safe, reasonably priced, and convenient off-site storage for it, I would have ordered a Sportsmobile van that I could park in the driveway.
We have also considered a smaller van type RV. How does the Sportsmobile compare to something like a Roadtrek, I wonder?
Only offering an opinion: The Sportsmobile that I would have bought was on the Ford E-350 van chassis, which has been replaced by the Transit. (Chevy and Dodge and Sprinter chassis available, too; none of which interest me.) All Bs are pricey for the space, but S-mobile offers many options and configurations, and a van goes just about anywhere! Custom order and long wait time, though.
Two friends had/have 2003 Roadtreks; let's just say that if I were given one, even a new one, I'd sell it and order an S-mobile. ;)
YMMV.
The costs involved in building the pipe barn were not insignificant at the time and I had to think long and hard about it. If we lived somewhere where precipitation was a factor, I would have fully enclosed it and put on doors, but we receive less than 10 inches of rain per year. In retrospect, it was one of the nicest improvements to our home that I have made and has paid for itself over and over in giving me a safe place to work and a weather resistant place to store our stuff.
Years ago, we stored our two ton slide in Lance truck camper on the gravel driveway where the barn is now. I put wide wooden feet under each of the camper jacks for stability. After a long period of rain, we decided to put the camper on the truck and head to the desert. The wet ground under the camper feet shifted as I was putting the camper on the truck and it fell, crushing my right (and dominant) hand between the camper and the bed and trapping me until a neighbor heard my shouts and jacked the camper up off my hand with a floor jack and some 4X4's. The doctor said it was amazing that it didn't sever the hand, but warned me that it would always be painful and never work the same. He was right. If I had built the barn earlier, I'd still have two functioning hands.
Today I will pull out the Lazy Daze and do some maintenance to my son in law's truck, in the shade, and on clean concrete. I really enjoy the convenience that the barn provides! If you have the space, build the barn. The savings over storing the Lazy Daze will pay for the barn quicker than you know!
HD
Harold,
Your accident is a reminder to us all that working alone on a project is a risky task.
While using a come-along to pull the concrete "slugs" from several old fence post holes recently, I pondered the safety factor. "Something could go horribly wrong with this". Fortunately nothing snapped. Only about a dozen more to go.
Here are a few pics of what a 1940's concrete Slug looks like. They are massive for a four foot fence. These guys were crazy and concrete must have been dirt cheap.
I'm taking a different approach to setting the new fence posts. I am using "OzPosts" instead of pouring more concrete. I'll be using the same method when I set the uprights to support the Sun Sails to cover my LD. Quick and easy installation. A one person job with no real risk of injury.
I'd love a canopy or barn for the rig, but that's just not going to happen.
Kent
Where we live, acre lots are the norm, and RV barns are selling features. I would not say they get back the whole cost, but they do appreciate with the home.
We have lived in cities, but never would live where we couldn’t keep the RV, boat, etc on our property, behind a fence. Of course we move a lot, so we choose where to live.
When we consider moving to an area, if on site storage is not feasible, we consider the cost of covered storage in the overall budget. It never makes “sense”, but then, this luxury rolling stock is a cost intense lifestyle.
The barn is where most of my day, every day is spent when we are home. So it keeps me more active. Maybe there is a health rationalization in a nice barn/shop?
On the subject of B vans, the term “astronomical “ comes to mind, but I second the Sportsmobile route over Road Trek. Or, if money is no object, Advanced RV is doing Sprinter conversions that are truly best in class. For us, a nice self built is the answer when we need to cover a lot of road in a short time, roughing it:
"We have also considered a smaller van type RV. How does the Sportsmobile compare to something like a Roadtrek, I wonder?"
If I had a nickel for every hour that I have obsessed on this subject, I would be one hella rich lady! I have no direct experience with any brands other than Lazy Daze, Newmar, and Sportsmobile, but I read, read, read . . . and the horror stories for the Roadtreks (mostly the "newer" ones) are legion. In a perfect world, I would order up myself a brand new Pleasure-Way on a ProMaster chassis. Roadtrek has undergone a change in ownership, and the scuttlebutt is that this was several years in the doing, and that "management" made decisions about quality that would affect the next owner. Interpret that however you wish. I have no direct experience with Roadtrek, but, like Joan's projected action if given one as a gift . . . I'd sell it ASAP and buy something else.
But since Fresno is a whole lot closer than Canada, and I have had a marvelous 15 years with a Sportsmobile, I'm inclined towards spending some time in California again to evaluate their offerings.
Will I be sorely disappointed after have had the extra space in a Lazy Daze RB? No doubt.
But will the Sportsmobile fit in my carport, obviating the need for off site, covered, expensive storage? Probably.
Do we actually NEED all of the room in the Lazy Daze RB? Yes, of course.
But would our ability to "pick up and go" outweigh the extra comfort provided by the Lazy Daze? For me . . . yes! For DH . . . not so much.
At different stages in our lives, different rigs filled the bill. Right now, a slightly wider ProMaster chassis would probably make enough difference (from our current standard Dodge van chassis) to make our RV life more attainable, if not quite as comfortable, as NOT using the Lazy Daze at all. Having the tremendous advantages of our Lazy Daze is pretty much immaterial, if it spends all its life in the shelter of the covered storage. Like Ed's unit, only her cute little nose sees the light of day. Sad!
But back to the OP's actual question . . .
Like almost everything that has to do with RV'ing, the answer is "it depends"! Everything about how/when/why you RV may be different from when you had your TK, Greg; it certainly is for us! Gertie was out and about on many, many trips. She was parked at our house, albeit on the street, thus convenient to load and go. We were also almost 30 years younger then, so "loading and going" was a whole lot easier.
Different time = different need/desire/ability.
Virtual hugs,
Judie <-- Sierra Vista, Arizona
Adventures of Dorrie Anne | Photographing the West (http://dorrieanne.wordpress.com)
Today: Boneless Leg and Thigh
******************************
Kent,
Do be careful pulling out your remaining posts. What worked for one may still be risky for the next. I was pulling out oak tree stumps and roots, pre-dug and loosened with a pick and shovel, and pulling them with the 4X4 diesel and a stout hawser. The last one tipped over as I was putting tension on it and the hawser slipped off the stump and whacked the bumper of the truck. If I'd been standing there, I would have hurt, or worse.
Hey, maybe you can sell those slugs Like Paul Bunyan and his men did. Pre-dug and filled post holes with posts. Someone on Craigslist has got to want them!
HD
Re: fencepost slugs. We have several that have to be replaced- the posts rotted at the base. A fence company here gave us a price of $50 ea, including replacement material. Given that the fence line is amongst the wild roses, blackberries and salal, it takes me about one day per. Then a day to recover. I’m going with the contractor on this job. I’ll paint the house to make up the money.
For those in SoCal or the Las Vegas area who either cannot store an LD on their property, or choose not to, here is an option for storage. Not an endorsement, just passing info along:
RV Storage (https://www.elmonterv.com/guide/rv-storage/?utm_source=April+2018+Newsletter&utm_campaign=April+2018+newsletter&utm_medium=email)
There is a new storage facility being built outside Omaha, NE that will have indoor RV storage with electrical service, the first of it’s kind here in case you’re interested.
Oh wait, we have the only LD in Nebraska?!?! NEVER MIND!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ground to top of roof air...10'1" to 10'3"
Exterior coach body width...8'3"
Bumper to bumper ( add 2" for spare tire cover and 2" for ladder)...23'11" to 31'1"
Graydon
Ground to top of roof air...10'1" to 10'3"
Exterior coach body width...8'3"
Bumper to bumper ( add 2" for spare tire cover and 2" for ladder)...23'11" to 31'1"
Graydon
Remember to add 18" (9" each side) for the fold-in cab mirrors to the width.
"Remember to add 18" (9" each side) for the fold-in cab mirrors to the width."
Ah, yes. Forgot about that. I was going off of a pamphlet I got at the factory.
The owner might want to measure the vehicle to be stored and not rely on printed measurements from the spec sheet when designing and building covered storage or planning an open 'parking' space. Measurements will vary depending on the year, any add-ons or changes in configurations, whether the mirrors are folded in or left in position, etc.