Please, a quick follow-up question to previous decisions on these bolts. When replacing the grade 5 bolts on the tow hitch with grade 8 bolts, I think there are six (6) 5/8" and two (2) 7/8" bolts? So far, is that correct? And secondly, all those bolts are 2" in length?
I haven't forgotten the advice to make sure washers and nyloc bolts are all grade 8 and that they are torqued to grade 8 specs. I plan to make this upgrade this week. Thanks in advance.
2" long bolts should be more than adequate.
Hitch receiver upgrade | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157647765653660/)
If you are going to do this, upgrade the bumper to frame hardware too.
Rear bumper mounting repair | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157605167526411/)
Larry
Hi Ed and Margie. Your E450 chassis is ten years newer than my E350 chassis, so I don't know for sure what size bolts you need. I didn't touch the bolts holding my 2"x3" extensions onto the chassis frame rails. I used 4, 1/2"x2" bolts, two on each extension to attach the bumper to the chassis (extensions). I used two more of those same size to replace the screws of the same size holding the receiver onto the bumper. That's six bolts, twelve flat washers (1 3/8" diam.), 6 split lock washers and six nuts. You wouldn't need the lock washers if you use Nyloc nuts. I used a flat washer under the head of the bolts , and one under the nut, even against the extra support of the steel bar. That's because of the slot, not a well shaped round hole. Failures associated with extreme stress often have the heads or nuts pulling through the softer steel frame members. For the two bigger bolts also 2" long, I used 3/4" bolts. One flat washer under the head inside the bumper. Exposed underneath two flat washers, a split lock washer, and a nut. The washers are also grade 8, about 3/32" thick and 2" diam. All of my parts appeared to be Cadmium plated, but not very thick. I used a two foot heavy duty breaker bar to hold the heads from turning, and a 1/2" air impact driver with six point impact sockets to tighten the nuts. I was tempted to put a little blue Loctite on, but it's better to check them more often.
Years ago I put in forged steel lifting eyes like Larry has. I couldn't find galvanized ones so I painted them. I repaint them every so often. They were rated for 16 tons straight lift, but in a pinch the stress on them would be to the side, not lifting. I painted all of the steel parts, left the grade 8 stuff as-is. If I plan to drive through many salted roads I can spray some undercoat. Good luck with your upgrade. RonB
Many thanks Larry & Ron. The tow hitch bolt upgrade is still on my list and I'm slowly gathering momentum! I'll need to buy a better torque wrench since the Grade 8 1/2" bolts need to be torqued to 119 lbs. Mine only goes to 75 ft.lbs. BUT, the 3/4" grade 8 bolts is another matter! Bolt Nut Recommened Torque Table for SAE Grades | Engineers Edge (http://www.engineersedge.com/torque_table_sae_ftlbs.htm) According to that table, I'll need to torque those bolts to 380 ft.lbs! So I haven't crossed that bridge yet since there isn't anyone I know with that kind of tool.
On a related matter Ron, would you help me understand your thinking on part of your post ... " Exposed underneath two flat washers" instead of just one like the 1/2" bolts. Thanks again for your guidance and please know I am grateful.
I'll need to buy a better torque wrench since the Grade 8 1/2" bolts need to be torqued to 119 lbs. Mine only goes to 75 ft.lbs. BUT, the 3/4" grade 8 bolts is another matter! Bolt Nut Recommened Torque Table for SAE Grades | Engineers Edge According to that table, I'll need to torque those bolts to 380 ft.lbs!
Don't bother trying to find a torque wrench for the 3/4" bolt, use a breaker bar and three foot cheater.
Pull as hard as you can, using the good and tight method. Unless you are a gorilla, it's really difficult to exceed the maximum torque.
If you have access to an arc welder, a few 1' beads, around the perimeter of the plate, will make sure it never moves.
Larry
Speaking of torque wrenches, awhile back I borrowed a friend's $25 torque wrench (https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Pro-239-Professional-Torque/dp/B006ZB9GKI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1478188769&sr=1-1&keywords=pittsburgh+professional+torque+wrench). It worked, but I found the engraved-on-shiny-chrome markings hard to read. It was affordable, relatively compact (18" long) and did the job. But when I decided to buy my own torque wrench, I decided to spend a little more and get a better wrench.
I wound up with a 24” Tekton torque wrench. It's well made, and--this is important for my old eyes--the markings are both engraved and ink-filled on a satin (not shiny) surface, so they're pretty easy to read, unlike many torque wrenches I've seen. I have their 1/2” drive 25-250 ft.-pound wrench (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) as well as their 1/4" drive 20-200 in.-lb. wrench (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
I'll also mention a few other Tekton items I've found useful: their 1/2" drive extension set (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPBD8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1); their clever lug nut socket set (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00944N154/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1), in which three sockets handle six different sizes; and their 3/8" drive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A50N9V2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and 1/2" drive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A50N9VM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) ratchet handles. The latter (recommended to me by Joan--thanks!) have several key advantages over garden-variety ratchets: offset handles, padded for a firm grip, and 72-tooth ratchets (twice the usual number) that let you make smaller movements if you're working in a right space.
All the Tekton brand tools I've bought have been very well made. This seems to be a good brand for moderately priced yet solid tools.
Hi Ed; I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, but I figured I got it pretty tight. I'm not strong enough to hurt a 3/4"bolt, (not a Gorilla). If I find any signs of loosening or the receiver moving around on the bumper I'll have to rethink that. As Larry said a few well placed small welds would really secure it. I didn't have a welder, didn't want to mess up the paint, and it is easier to work on or modify if not welded on. The doubled washers on the 3/4" bolts were more 'overkill' than a necessity. The receiver material thickness is thinner than the bumper and the washer function is to spread the dynamic loads around a larger surface area. I already had the extra washers, and the bolt was long enough, so I put them in. Those two bolts take most of the load. I believe Larry said he increased the diameter of the two 1/2" bolts to 5/8" on the receiver. More stability for side to side twisting loads. A lot of this overkill is to ensure that IF the bolts get loose enough to move around before you notice that something is amiss, that the hardware will be able to take a beating for awhile. That roller bracket I added could easily cause extra loading in unusual ways too. It's pretty dramatic when I do drag it on a driveway. very noisy!
RonB
Hi Larry. I just found your message #148506 and looked at your pictures again. You were the inspiration for the forged iron lifting eyes I put in my bumper to connect my safety chains to. A great idea. I couldn't find galvanized, so I just paint them. I had forgotten where I got the idea. Your pictures two years ago motivated me to disassemble my bumper bolts and frame extensions to go to grade 8 bolts. Thanks again. RonB
An update on the Grade 8 3/4" bolt torque.
While dry threads require 376 ft/lbs of torque, lubricated threads only require 188 ft/lbs, within the range of most 1/2" torque wrenches, including the 24" Tekton. A much more approachable level of force.
Bolt Torque Chart - Portland Bolt (http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/)
Larry
While dry threads require 376 ft/lbs of torque, lubricated threads only require 188 ft/lbs, within the range of most 1/2" torque wrenches, including the 24" Tekton. A much more approachable level of force.
Bolt Torque Chart - Portland Bolt (http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/)
Just wonderful marvelous news! You've solved my 376 ft/lbs. of torque problem. :) So now I'm headed off to Home Depot with my good friend Visa Credit Card to buy the 24" Tekton on sale for $58.99 and a bucket of Grade 8 bolts, nyloc nuts, and washers.
I'd like to remind LDO's who are Veterans that Home Depot and Lowes offer a standing 10% Veteran's Discount, at least in this area of the world. There's three (3) ways to show Veteran's status. The first is to show a VA ID card. The second is to take your DD214 to whoever handles State driver's license and for a small fee, you can have
Veteran on your Driver's License. And retired Vets and active duty can show their military ID cards. Finally, some Home Depot and Lowes stores don't seem to honor this Discount, but when I have persisted, I've received the discount.
Take care.
P.S. Home Depot (local) didn't have them, so I ordered the Tekton suggested by Andy through the LD Amazon link. Should get here next week. So the project continues :).
The only place somewhat near where I live that had Grade 8 hardware was Lowes and it was just a mess. Took my 30 minutes of picking through 6-8 drawers of stuff. I think I cleaned them out! For what it's worth, all of these items cost about $26.00.
I still haven't found the 3/4" Grade 8 (2") bolts, washers and nyloc nuts. I will make some calls Monday to bolt and hardware speciality shops. The torque wrench recommended by Andy arrives from Amazon next week.
I bet breaking the old bolts loose will be a challenge. LOL as in NOT! And so it goes.
Ed the two places that we have locally that keep a good stock of hardware are Ace Hardware and Tractor Supply. Also Fastenal can be good. Grainger and McMaster Carr are online and some places have a Grainger store. That should take care of your hardware needs. Good luck.
Larry in Monument, CO
Around here, Napa Auto Parts has a blue bin near the counter with Grade 8 hardware, including hardened flat and lock washers. You can buy just one if you need. This is in addition to the commercial hardware suppliers.
Chip
Larry & Chip ... thumbs up and thank you. I'll be checking with your recommendations tomorrow morning.
I've finally rounded up all the grade 8 parts to include the recommended torque wrench. So tomorrow I'll crawl under the LD and see if I'm strong enough to make the bolt upgrade. I've found a range of torque specifications for a 1/2" coarse thread bolt of 106 ft.lbs. to 119 ft.lbs (dry). I'm hopeful someone is here tonight to help me with this spec. Should I just torque the highest recommendation of 119? Thanks in advance.
In this thread, post # 8, Larry created a link to Portland Bolt...
Bolt Torque Chart - Portland Bolt (http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/)
Perhaps what you seek is there. Then again, perhaps you've already checked Larry's link.
I've included a shot from the link for SAE Grade 8 bolts with a TPI (threads per inch I believe) for a 1/2" Grade 8 bolt with a TPI of 13 and a "lubricated" torque of 53 ft pounds and a "plain" torque of 107 ft pounds.
Perhaps these specs can be clarified by Larry.
Good luck,
Kent
In this thread, post # 8, Larry created a link to Portland Bolt...
Bolt Torque Chart - Portland Bolt (http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/)
Perhaps what you seek is there. Then again, perhaps you've already checked Larry's link.
Kent ... that is one of the sources I found and then there is this one.
Bolt Nut Recommened Torque Table for SAE Grades | Engineers Edge (http://www.engineersedge.com/torque_table_sae_ftlbs.htm)
And it shows 119 ft.lbs. I'm thinking that I'll not over torque at 119, but I'm trying to be caution with this hitch.
Well Ed,
According to Portland, your guess is as good as theirs...
Hence their statement in the next screen capture...
Best of luck. It appears you are heading in the right direction. Like they say, "Practice makes perfect".
Kent
All six (6) 1/2" bolts replaced but not without several bruised knuckles, a pulled back muscle and very tired arms. I'm not as strong as I use to be and that's for sure. The 3/4" bolts are still on the to-do list. I couldn't budge them while on my back. Btw, the OEM 1/2" bolts were not loose but they were NOT torqued to the Grade 5 specifications. So my suggestion for those towing is to check those bolts. And these are my final words on all things related to bolts.
Bustin' knuckles and bendin' wrenches. Give that man a boat drink.
Traxless, I made it as far as you did. I got the 1/2" bolts replaced without too much trouble, but a heavy duty impact driver, with 360 ft-lbs capacity, was unable to budge the 3/4" bolts. My plan is to leave them as is, at least until someone with far more capability that I can do it.
Ken F in NM
2" long bolts should be more than adequate.
Hitch receiver upgrade | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157647765653660/)
I wanted to mention that our hitch receiver bolts looked just like those in Larry's photos. The threads were worn, which made them a challenge to remove. I'm so glad that Larry has taken the time to educate us about the problems of Grade 5 bolts. Thank you Larry Wade for this valuable lesson.
I wanted to mention that our hitch receiver bolts looked just like those in Larry's photos. The threads were worn, which made them a challenge to remove
I have found a few other LDs with the same problems.
The Factory hardware is inadequate for towing heavier vehicles.
You can also have the hitch plate welded on or tacked along the edges.
I prefer tacking the edges with a few 1" long welds, located where they can be easily cut, if necessary to remove the hitch in the future.
Larry