I posted about this several years ago. I now know the answer. We have observed over three years while parked at over 7,800 the refrigerator will go off. It will relight, but will go out again in a few hours. It might be caused by not enough pressure. But, I had that checked. It might be a gas mix not right for the altitude. Nope, not that either. It's just the way things are. Most people never park at high altitude, so problem reports are almost nill. So if it happens to you, just consider it normal, and push the power off button and turn it back on.
Parked at 9,150. Yesterday's high was 77! 90 plus in the valley.
My owners manual, which I don't have handy, says to not run the ref on gas over 5,000'. Doesn't say why.
My experience is like yours. After years of observation, i've decided it's a function of both altitude and ambient temperature. Mine will run fine at the elevation you're talking about, in fact up to 9,000' or so, during the heat of the day but invaribly goes out at night. At higher elevations it tends to be cool at night so as long as you don't spend lots of time staring into the ref., things should be still at a safe temp. in the morning. I've gotten in the habit of just turning it off at night and back on about 10am or so. That way I'm not annoyed by the little Check light being on. Haven't poisoned any of us yet.
Ed
Interesting information, and something to research further! Perhaps others who also camp at high elevations can offer their experiences, too? How common (or uncommon) is this situation?
I've never had a problem with the refrigerators in either my previous motorhome or the LD failing to run on propane when camping at high elevations, i.e., 7-9000' (and occasionally higher). Neither the propane fill location, i.e., low or high elevations, nor the ambient temperatures have made a difference in the operation of the refrigerator. (Of course, now that I say that, it's almost sure to happen! ::) )
We spent time last summer, camped at 10,000', in Colorado.
The refrigerator worked fine, but cutting out, at altitude, is a common problem for many.
Make sure the flu is clean, the propane pressure is set correctly and the jet in the refrigerator clean.
Raising the propane operation pressure slightly, from 11"-H2O to 13"-H2O, may be of help. I check the propane pressure with an appliance operating, finding that you can get a false, low reading, if the regulator is set with nothing operating.
If you are not 100% confident about how to service the propane system, leave it to the pros.
The refrigerator's Jet slowly builds up a coating, from residual oils in the propane, which reduces flow and produces a smaller flame. To clean, soak the jet in solvent, alcohol works OK, acetone or lacquer thinner work better.
Do not poke the jet with anything metallic, this can damage the jet. A tooth brush is fine.
If available, blow the jet out with compressed air.
Accept the fact that there is less air, at high altitudes, and the refrigerator's cooling ability is lessened greatly.
An alternative is cover the roof with solar and switch to a marine-type 12-volt compressor refrigerator.
Larry
From the Dometic site.
OPERATING REFRIGERATOR AT HIGH
ALTITUDE
All gas appliances experience lowered ef ciency (or rat- ing) at high altitude This is a direct result of lower atmos- pheric pressure and oxygen levels, and is not a defect of the refrigerator.
Reduced cooling performance and burner outage may occur at altitudes higher than 5500 feet above sea level (while operating on LP gas). Always operate refrigerator on electric power at altitudes higher than 5500 fee
From the Dometic site.
OPERATING REFRIGERATOR AT HIGH ALTITUDE
Always operate refrigerator on electric power at altitudes higher than 5500 feet.
It would be nice if every pine tree had a 30-amp plug.
5500' is much lower than where we are willing to camp, in the summer.
Just another excuse for building a poor refrigerator.
Larry
Just another excuse for building a poor refrigerator.
Larry
At higher elevations I set the temp control on 5. Three works lower down.
Plus I have one of these fans that helps. At least I think it does.
Dometic Refrig Fan w on Off Switch Increases Cooling Standard Model | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/180999049305?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true)
At higher elevations I set the temp control on 5. Three works lower down.
Plus I have one of these fans that helps. At least I think it does.
Dometic Refrig Fan w on Off Switch Increases Cooling Standard Model | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/180999049305?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true)
Yes, this add-on fan really does work. And it's cheap and easy to install.
Chris
I love camping at high altitude and spend a lot of time doing that. 10,000 feet isn't unusual for me. In 8 years of full-timing, I've never had the frig go out at high altitude, actually. But I've been with people whose frig did go out and it was very un-fun for them! I remember one time a friend was losing a lot of sleep cuz that check light would come on often. He tried cleaning various parts, adjusting the flame, getting a new Dinosaur board, and then as I recall, he eventually tried changing out the board over the door. I think that finally did the trick. So I don't think it was actually an altitude problem in the end.
My owners manual, which I don't have handy, says to not run the ref on gas over 5,000'. Doesn't say why.
My experience is like yours. After years of observation, i've decided it's a function of both altitude and ambient temperature. Mine will run fine at the elevation you're talking about, in fact up to 9,000' or so, during the heat of the day but invaribly goes out at night. At higher elevations it tends to be cool at night so as long as you don't spend lots of time staring into the ref., things should be still at a safe temp. in the morning. I've gotten in the habit of just turning it off at night and back on about 10am or so. That way I'm not annoyed by the little Check light being on. Haven't poisoned any of us yet.
Ed
hmmm this makes no sense. There is a humidity and temperature variable in the Atmospheric pressure formula. Generally day time temperatures are higher then nighttime temperatures. So during the day the air pressure would be lower (less pressure of O2) then the night time pressure (higher O2 pressure). BTW the percentage of O2 is the same as it is at sea level, about 21%. <smile> Of course this assumes that a front is not moving thru.
In my past life I was a Radiation Physicist. I did this calculation daily to calibrate our radiation machines.
Atmospheric pressure - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_pressure)
hmmm this makes no sense.
Don't have a clue about the science involved but it runs fine during the day and shuts down at night. I'm mostly like that as well.
Some people are night owls. Some are not.
Perhaps refrigerators are like that as well? :D
Ed
Ed. D. said, "Haven't poisoned any of us yet."
Had a great-great-aunt Ethlyn who was a WWI Army nurse, & apparently saw some pretty awful things before she returned to Princeton, MO; her sister Lois was know for being quite fastidious about everything hygiene-wise. The family story is that Aunt Ethlyn would periodically comment, "When Lois is sick, she goes to the DR & gets a shot of penicillin; when I'm sick, I just go to the refrigerator & eat mine." Aunt Ethlyn lived to almost 90 in the boonies of north Missouri with the healthcare available in 1963...she was a tough old bird! ;D
one time a friend was losing a lot of sleep cuz that check light would come on often. He tried cleaning various parts, adjusting the flame, getting a new Dinosaur board, and then as I recall, he eventually tried changing out the board over the door. I think that finally did the trick. So I don't think it was actually an altitude problem in the end.
Sounds like my experience with a ten-year-old 2003 Dometic RM-3662 fridge. I tried everything--new Dinosaur controller board, cleaning the orifice, adjusting the electrode gap ("use two quarters as a thickness gauge" is what the Dinosaur tech told me)... except that I didn't replace the "eyebrow board" (the one over the door). No matter what I did, the fridge just would not stay lit at elevations above about 9,000', and the problem was definitely altitude-related, as the ups and downs of our travel proved.
The culprit eventually turned out to be the thermocouple flame sensor. Although the one in my fridge tested within spec (a specified resistance when held in a propane flame), replacing it cured the problem. The replacement part cost a little over $25 from PPL Motorhomes (http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv_parts_rv_accessories.htm).
My guess is that the flame was not quite as hot at high altitude, and the old thermocouple was probably marginal, so above 9,000 feet it just didn't get enough heat to trigger the controller board into keeping the gas on. With the new thermocouple, the fridge worked fine at elevations as high as 11,000 feet.
Still somewhat confused on this issue.
My ref. is just over a year old (2015 TK) and probably has somewhere about 120 days use. That would make most of the diagnosis being discussed rather remote. Not impossible, or course, but unlikely. At home, right at 5,000', the ref. runs perfectly when set on "3". That tells me that the basic gas system is within Dometic specs.
During out recent trip we were camped at elevations between 8,500' and 9,100'. Daytime temps were in the high 60's and at night it fell to close to freezing. The ref ran just fine, set on 5, from about 9am until perhaps 8pm and then it would go off. It would relight, but only run for perhaps 5 or 10 minutes before the Check light came on. Relight, go off, relight, go off. Since it was cold outside I got in the habit of just shutting it off after the 8pm Check light.
Practically speaking, it's not a big issue. The morning ref and freezer temps were well into the safe range.
Any thoughts or ideas?
Andy said;
"The culprit eventually turned out to be the thermocouple flame sensor. Although the one in my fridge tested within spec (a specified resistance when held in a propane flame), replacing it cured the problem"
Andy.
Do you think it would be worth it to replace the thermocouple on a new ref. or wasted money?
Thanks
Ed
The pilot flame won't be as strong or hot at the lower O2 levels you get with altitude. So the result is the thermocouple output will be lower. If it is to much lower your flame will go out. It will be more sensitive to wind pushing the flame around. In fact this is very similar to how the oxygen sensor cutoffs work in the propane heaters certified for inside use. The pilot is set st an angle and as the oxygen decreases the pilot starts going vertical and misses the thermocouple.
So I would suggust the thermocouple , its position or the orfice anything that could affect the thermocouple output in these altitude problems for the reffer.
Sounds like my experience with a ten-year-old 2003 Dometic RM-3662 fridge. I tried everything--new Dinosaur controller board, cleaning the orifice, adjusting the electrode gap ("use two quarters as a thickness gauge" is what the Dinosaur tech told me)... except that I didn't replace the "eyebrow board" (the one over the door). No matter what I did, the fridge just would not stay lit at elevations above about 9,000', and the problem was definitely altitude-related, as the ups and downs of our travel proved.
The culprit eventually turned out to be the thermocouple flame sensor. Although the one in my fridge tested within spec (a specified resistance when held in a propane flame), replacing it cured the problem. The replacement part cost a little over $25 from PPL Motorhomes (http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv_parts_rv_accessories.htm).
My guess is that the flame was not quite as hot at high altitude, and the old thermocouple was probably marginal, so above 9,000 feet it just didn't get enough heat to trigger the controller board into keeping the gas on. With the new thermocouple, the fridge worked fine at elevations as high as 11,000 feet.
Interesting information, and something to research further! Perhaps others who also camp at high elevations can offer their experiences, too? How common (or uncommon) is this situation?
I don't know how common it is, but when we spent the summer touring the New Mexico State Parks, we boondocked overnight at La Manga Pass in Colorado on CO-17, which is at 10,230'. We had no problem with either our refrigerator or our water heater.
We also stayed at several New Mexico State Parks that were well over 5,000', some over 7,000', without any problems with either the refrigerator or water heater (all dry camping).
We're often at elevations over 5,000' -- if we couldn't run our refrigerator, or any other propane-powered appliance, at elevations over 5,000', we wouldn't be able to travel by RV!
We're often at elevations over 5,000' -- if we couldn't run our refrigerator, or any other propane-powered appliance, at elevations over 5,000', we wouldn't be able to travel by RV!
In the West, this is very true, it is hard to camp in the mountains and not be at or over 6000'.
Larry
Parked at 6000', refrigerator set on 3 @36 degrees.
Do you think it would be worth it to replace the thermocouple on a new ref. or wasted money?
It seems unlikely that the thermocouple in a new refrigerator would cause problems, but if you've eliminated other possible causes, it might be worth a try. For twenty five bucks (assuming you do it yourself), you don't have much to lose.
WOW! This sure created a lot of traffic. We dropped down to 7,700 because Dorothy has problems at the same elevations as the refer does. Since then it's back to normal operation. Like Ed, we have learned to stay calm and just power it off and back on and it will run for several hours. If it goes out, no worries as the outside temp is not high enough to spoil food in only a few hours.
WOW! This sure created a lot of traffic. We dropped down to 7,700 because Dorothy has problems at the same elevations as the refer does. Since then it's back to normal operation. Like Ed, we have learned to stay calm and just power it off and back on and it will run for several hours.
Did both Dorothy and the refer return to normal operation? :D
Yes, both are back to normal. The refer runs and she can breathe.
Bound for the Gatlinburg of Wyoming, Cody
And here is a prime example of the problem...
Years ago (when I was still able) I went deer hunting in the Sierra at about 7,000'. When I arrived at the Forest Service road where I needed to go I found that the snow plows had created a barrier across the road. So, out comes the shovel and a GAZ (Butane) lantern. The job was going pretty good but the longer I shoveled the dimmer the light became. Looking at my lantern I realized that it was hardly putting out any light at all. I got rid of that system post haste!
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
When traveling in the mountain west, I often camp at higher elevations; many times over 8,000' and up to 11,000'. But, I don't ever recall having issues with the reefer; or other LPG appliances. It's good to read about other's problems and solutions though; things could change. My last camp was over 9,000'. I'm currently boondocked in the Rockies at 8,243', and the frig is cycling on and off normally, and maintaining temperature. Outside temps in low 70s hi, and low 40s lo.
5 year old Dometic RM3762 set at 3.
We've camped as high as 9,600' and never had the refrigerator go off in our '06. Guess we've been lucky.
The percentage of O2 is the same at any attitude on earth. About 20% give or take. What changes is the pressure of the air. At sea level air pressure is around 29 or so inches of mercury. Assuming of course the temperature is 32F.
A person can be be camping at an altitude of 8000 ft with a front moving thru the air pressure can change with a factor of up to 10 times.
Also as an complete aside this air pressure also affects your gas engine. What most folk don't know is gas companies change the formulation of the gas based on weather and attitude. I.E. fuel you buy at sea level is not the same as the fuel you buy at 8000 ft in winter conditions. I'm guess and I have no idea or have studied but maybe this is also true with propane also.
Standard conditions for temperature and pressure - Wikipedia, the free... (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_conditions_for_temperature_and_pressure)
Also as an complete aside this air pressure also affects your gas engine. What most folk don't know is gas companies change the formulation of the gas based on weather and attitude. I.E. fuel you buy at sea level is not the same as the fuel you buy at 8000 ft in winter conditions. I'm guess and I have no idea or have studied but maybe this is also true with propane also.
I have asked two propane distributors about this, both said it was true at one time, but no more. That is not to say that it's all the same, just that they do not blend for different regions.
Sure hope someone has a magic bullet cause we just arrived at 8,200' in RMNP and no fridge. Ours has always been balky on gas and i have a work around for hard gas starts these last 8 years by running it on electric first and then switching to gas. Has always worked. Now? ........
It ran ongas on the flatlands and there is electricity to it and gas from the gas tube just no catch...not even the clicking sound it normally makes.
Bummer. Good thing we carry a collapsible cooler.
Will try the genny (sorry neighbors) during genny hours and switch over.
Make as many high volume ice blocks as you can while the refrigerator is running to stock your cooler. You will be amazed at how long it will keep its cool. If you have some Reflectix, apply it liberally inside the cooler on all surfaces especially the top. Any bits of foam will help, too. Even bubble wrap.
And, yes, our refrigerator went out on a three-month trip. We went the last month without the refrigerator, using just the cooler.
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Adventures of Dorrie Anne | Photographing the West (http://dorrieanne.wordpress.com)
Today: Almost Stroganoff (http://dorrieanne.wordpress.com) ******************************
Sorry to hear of your fridge trouble. I'll just add to Judie's suggestions as an interim to keep your things cold while the fridge is being sorted out.
I have found that placing a wet towel over an ice chest helps to prolong the ice for hours.
This trick has served me well while staying in the wooden cabins in Yosemite. I placed the cooler in the tub and added a wet towel.
The ice would melt before the end of the day without the wet towel and it was back to Curry's store for more ice. $$$
With the wet towel in place the ice lasted well into the next day. Money saved.
The wet towel acts as an evaporative wick. In the "old days" in San Bernardino, folks made "submarines" (lean to's) in their back yards that had straw roofs. Running water over the roof cooled the interior by 15 degrees. Made a nice place to spend the night during the heat of summer.
Hope this helps and you figure out the fridge soon.
Kent
Thanks for the advice. A collapsible cooler can really get stretched with stuff when you really need it!!!
I didn't think to try hydrating the top of the cooler, but that seems an excellent idea! I had really good luck with putting a fuzzy (new) bathroom rug over the top of the cooler during a trip to the Four Corners area in an un-air-conditioned Volkswagen Westfalia on the cusp of August / September. Imagine the temperature in and around Chinle at that time of year!
The only place that the cooler could sit was right where the sliding door opened - showering the cooler with sun rays multiple times per day. The white fuzz seems to have reflected a good number of those rays, AND one could acquire block ice in those days (80's), so an ice run was necessary only about every third day. If Reflectix was extant then, I didn't know about it, so the only thing I used was the fuzzy rug. A giant "tea cozy" of Reflectix dropped over the top and sides of a cooler is said to work well, too, although I have not tried that myself. Seems worthwhile, though.
WARNING: Dry ice is not what you want to use for maximum cooling. It will evaporate almost immediately while freezing everything in sight! It is good ONLY for keeping things frozen. Yes, personal experience !! Live and learn and hopefully help others avoid my stupid moves!
Virtual hugs,
Judie
********************************
Thanks for the advice. A collapsible cooler can really get stretched with stuff when you really need it!!!
I prefer a collapsable cooler myself. The nylon fabric can also be soaked. With the wet towel added you increase the evaporative effect.
Once again, best of luck with your fridge.
Kent
Epilogue: READ your manual! It says if you're getting the check light you might try removing the propane guard sheet metal ( not easy but got it done). The burner has four verticals slots that can get soot or rust build up. Clean with a soft toothbrush. I did this plus pulled the ignition wire and sprayed a little Deoxit Gold on the connections, put it all back together, hit the button inside and she roared to life! :D Leaving it on high as I don't want to tempt fate even though it showed 25 degrees this morning.
Hope that might help someone down the road.
-Dave, recovering nicely from a 5 mile hike to Cub Lake seeing a mama moose and baby along the way.
Epilogue: READ your manual! It says if you're getting the check light you might try removing the propane guard sheet metal ( not easy but got it done). The burner has four verticals slots that can get soot or rust build up. Clean with a soft toothbrush. I did this plus pulled the ignition wire and sprayed a little Deoxit Gold on the connections, put it all back together, hit the button inside and she roared to life! :D Leaving it on high as I don't want to tempt fate even though it showed 25 degrees this morning.
Hope that might help someone down the road.
-Dave, recovering nicely from a 5 mile hike to Cub Lake seeing a mama moose and baby along the way.
Good news, Dave. Thanks for following up with your remedy. Folks sometimes forget the LD manual is chock full of good stuff.
Chris
Folks sometimes forget the LD manual is chock full of good stuff.
RTFM, it should be the law.(http://www.lazydazeowners.com/smileys/default/grin.gif)
Larry
Todd at LD insisted that I read the manual at least twice before taking delivery...I must have read it three times.
I figured there would be a test after the walk-through. There was...I failed.
Now I keep the entire manual on my phone for quick reference.
Though, in this heat I may be repeating myself...
Comes in very handy.
Kent
Todd at LD insisted that I read the manual at least twice before taking delivery...I must have read it three times.
I figured there would be a test after the walk-through. There was...I failed.
Now I keep the entire manual on my phone for quick reference.
Though, in this heat I may be repeating myself...
Comes in very handy.
Kent
OK, Kent, I know folks are wondering but no one will ask. How did you get the manual "on your phone"? Scan it and download it to the phone?
Chris
Hi Chris,
Scanning is way too slow for me. I used my phone and snapped a shot of each page...one at a time.
Any conversion of the pics may come later if that would save room on my phone, but for now I'm happy with the results. Makes it a simple matter of uploading pics if anyone needs a bit of help.
My manual now resides in three places. On my phone, in the LD and as an upload to my laptop.
Like they say, " I never leave home without it".
Kent
Just to add my $0.02, we've never had an altitude issue with the fridges of either our '83 or '04. However, the PO of our '04 said sometimes he couldn't start the fridge on gas if it was humid out. Never ran into that since we've had it.
Steve
I replaced the original refrigerator (it failed) in my 2003 RB with a Dometic DM2662 last June. Recently camping around 7,000' with night time low around 32 F we had the check light come on and had to turn it back on running on propane once or twice a day. Then camping at 9,500' with low temp around 20 F it was more like 10 times a day. It did seam to run better in the day than at night. It stayed reasonably cold most of the time by just watch dogging it. It seams to new to have issues with cleaning stack and jet.
I read a suggestion somewhere online that a different jet might be used at high altitude but no specific size.
I also have read suggestions of lowering, or raising the regulated gas pressure. Since the air is thinner at high altitude it seams like lowering the gas pressure would get the oxygen/propane ratio correct. But some people suggest lowering pressure. I don't have a manometer at this point so I don't plan to do either in the near future.
I may clean the jet and see if I have a left over temp probe from the old fridge.
I replaced the original refrigerator (it failed) in my 2003 RB with a Dometic DM2662 last June. Recently camping around 7,000' with night time low around 32 F we had the check light come on and had to turn it back on running on propane once or twice a day. Then camping at 9,500' with low temp around 20 F it was more like 10 times a day.
I read a suggestion somewhere online that a different jet
Jay
Try cleaning the jet, using alcohol and a old toothbrush. Don't put anything metallic into the jet' calibrated hole.
Have the propane pressure tested, it should maintain 11inch/pounds of pressure with the refrigerator and the water heater on and using propane. Most regulators are adjustable.
I have never heard of a high altitude jet for a Domestic.
Larry
"a Dometic DM2662 last June. Recently camping around 7,000' with night time low around 32 F we had the check light come on and had to turn it back on running on propane once or twice a day. Then camping at 9,500' with low temp around 20 F it was more like 10 times a day. "
I have a two year old DM2662 that probably has 8 months of use and my experience is identical to yours. It's simply the design and, I suspect, there is no jury rigging we can do to fix it.
Some swear they never have this issue but I've dealt with it from Day 1 on this rig plus on the '08.
On the plus side, at high elevations it's generally chilly at night so it's not really a practical cooling issue. At least not to us.
My solution? Stop worrying about it.
From the DM2662 Operating Instructions booklet. Page 3
"All gas appliances experience lowered efficiency at high altitude. This is a direct result of lower atmospheric pressure and oxygen levels, and is not a defect in the refrigerator.
Reduced cooling performance and burner outage may occur at altitudes higher than 5,000' while operating on LP gas. Always operate refrigerator on electric power at altitudes higher than 5,500'."
Ed.
A Dometic Ref. Service manual for reference. Covers multiple types of units.
http://www.fourwh.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf
Ed
On the plus side, at high elevations it's generally chilly at night so it's not really a practical cooling issue. At least not to us.
My solution? Stop worrying about it.
True that. Just keep restarting it when you can. :) That service manual could be useful. More explanation and troubleshooting information than what came with the refrigerator or on Dometic website.
True that. Just keep restarting it when you can. :) That service manual could be useful. More explanation and troubleshooting information than what came with the refrigerator or on Dometic website.
That's what I do. Eventually it stays lit, generally by mid-morning.
Right not were at 4,500' and the frige runs flawlessly and has for several days. That tells me it's not broken in any way. Just an elevation issue.
Set on #4. The Freezer is at 6* fridge at 35*,
One option for you, Jay, since your unit is still under its first year warranty, would be to take it to a dealer and see what they think.
Ed
"That's what I do. Eventually it stays lit, generally by mid-morning."
"Right not were at 4,500' and the frige runs flawlessly and has for several days. That tells me it's not broken in any way. Just an elevation issue.Set on #4. The Freezer is at 6* fridge at 35*"
Just curious, do you notice a difference in the flame when it does light, or the sound of the burner compared to what you've observed at lower altitude?
The percentage of O2 is the same at any attitude on earth. About 20% give or take. What changes is the pressure of the air. At sea level air pressure is around 29 or so inches of mercury. Assuming of course the temperature is 32F.
An old post I'm quoting here, but to be specific, at low air pressure, the amount of air, and thus the amount of O2 expressed as molecules per cubic foot, is reduced. That said, it should not be sufficient to extinguish the flame. Such a condition is correctable.
Steve
"That's what I do. Eventually it stays lit, generally by mid-morning."
"Right not were at 4,500' and the frige runs flawlessly and has for several days. That tells me it's not broken in any way. Just an elevation issue.Set on #4. The Freezer is at 6* fridge at 35*"
Just curious, do you notice a difference in the flame when it does light, or the sound of the burner compared to what you've observed at lower altitude?
You can't easily see the flame and I've not tried to see if it sounds different, so I don't know the answer.
Ed
An old post I'm quoting here, but to be specific, at low air pressure, the amount of air, and thus the amount of O2 expressed as molecules per cubic foot, is reduced. That said, it should not be sufficient to extinguish the flame. Such a condition is correctable.
Steve
My DM2662 is fine up to the 7,000-8,000' range. Above that it starts cutting out as Dometic predicted would happen above about 5,000'
Ed
Ed
I think the flame on my new refrigerator sounds louder than the old one. Sometimes it seams louder than others. Perhaps louder at higher altitudes.
The flame looked good, blue when I looked yesterday and a couple weeks ago around 7,000'.
I wouldn't think there is anything wrong other than it could be designed to work better at high altitude unless I have problems closer to sea level, which I haven't so far.
If I could find warranty service at 9,000' they might have some ideas!
Our 8CF 2006 model Dometic has worked without a problem up to 10,000 feet.
Jim
Our 8CF 2006 model Dometic has worked without a problem up to 10,000 feet.
Jim
Ditto our '02 same model.
Chris
Ditto our '02 same model.
Chris
I must have the 'new and improved ' model. 😩
Ed
We spent time last summer, camped at 10,000', in Colorado.
The refrigerator worked fine, but cutting out, at altitude, is a common problem for many.
Make sure the flu is clean, the propane pressure is set correctly and the jet in the refrigerator clean.
Raising the propane operation pressure slightly, from 11"-H2O to 13"-H2O, may be of help. I check the propane pressure with an appliance operating, finding that you can get a false, low reading, if the regulator is set with nothing operating.
If you are not 100% confident about how to service the propane system, leave it to the pros.
The refrigerator's Jet slowly builds up a coating, from residual oils in the propane, which reduces flow and produces a smaller flame. To clean, soak the jet in solvent, alcohol works OK, acetone or lacquer thinner work better.
Do not poke the jet with anything metallic, this can damage the jet. A tooth brush is fine.
If available, blow the jet out with compressed air.
Accept the fact that there is less air, at high altitudes, and the refrigerator's cooling ability is lessened greatly.
An alternative is cover the roof with solar and switch to a marine-type 12-volt compressor refrigerator.
Larry
We struggled for years with driving our RV's with fridge on....decided to go with this....Engel MT45F-U1 Dual Voltage AC/DC Portable Fridge/Freezer 43 Qt. Amazon.com: Engel MT45F-U1 Dual Voltage AC/DC Portable Fridge/Freezer 43... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SIRDD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_w5o8ybXDEWHEP).
Added bonus is an incredibly low amp draw and operates at any elevation.
Really don't need our coach refrigerator in its' intended function
We struggled for years with driving our RV's with fridge on....decided to go with this....Engel MT45F-U1 Dual Voltage AC/DC Portable Fridge/Freezer 43 Qt. Amazon.com: Engel MT45F-U1 Dual Voltage AC/DC Portable Fridge/Freezer 43... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SIRDD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_w5o8ybXDEWHEP).
Added bonus is an incredibly low amp draw and operates at any elevation.
Really don't need our coach refrigerator in its' intended function
Many full timers use a portable, compressor refrigerator, for extra storage or for shopping, when town is a long ways away.
This has been discussed here many times.
The major problem with compressor refrigerators is supplying the needed power, 24/7, rain or shine.
Propane is the simplest, most dependable way of providing the energy for refrigeration, in all conditions.
On the other hand, most find a properly maintained refrigerator does an adequate job in most conditions.
Its performance can be enhanced with interior and chimney fans and better insulation, as well as periodic maintenance.
A dirty jet or a flue can seriously decrease efficiency.
Few ever clean the jet or pull the flue baffle and clean the flue with a stiff brush.
As mentioned before, we and others have operated our refrigerators at 9-10,000', many times over the last 20+ years, without issues.
Larry
"Many full timers use a portable, compressor refrigerator, for extra storage or for shopping, when town is a long ways away. "
While really, really wonderful, the portable refrigerators are monstrously expensive, and require not an insignificant amount of constant power; thus probably not cost effective for the non-full timer. Even an insulated, foldable cooler could be pressed into usable service at grocery shopping time by adding a bag of ice from the supply that seems to be ubiquitous at just about any grocery store. Even a huge bag is only about $2., and if you hustle on home, you could probably utilize many of those ice cubes for cooling down the refrigerator when you put the new food into it.
If you time it right, perhaps your rig freezer could already be holding the Blue Ice-type of coolant packets, which could then be moved to the refrigerator and placed around in strategic places, and the bag of ice cubes inserted into the freezer for refreezing and use later. TIP: When you buy the bag of ice at the grocery store, put it into another sturdy plastic bag to preclude getting your items in the cooler wet.
When you get back to the rig, drain the resultant water out of the plastic bag, and dislodge the cubes from each other before placing the bag into the freezer. Or leave it in the cooler to cool any drinks you have purchased - instead of warming the refrigerator by putting room temperature drinks in there.
If all else fails, use the ice cubes in beverages! ;->
Virtual hugs,
Judie
The Engel portables have an excellent reputation, but as Judie mentioned, are fairly pricey for their capacity. I've been using a 40-quart Dometic CF-040 (https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-040AC110-Portable-Freezer-Refrigerator/dp/B0030G4VBA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1492215846&sr=1-1&keywords=dometic+CF-040) 12V/120V compressor fridge in my car for several years and it has been a joy to own. The price, while still not cheap, is several hundred dollars less than a similarly sized 43-quart Engel. My Dometic uses the well-known and very reliable Danfoss BD-35 compressor. It's powered by a surplus 100 W solar panel and a group 27 battery, and runs 24/7 at about 34° F. (I turn it down to 10° when I go shopping.)
There's no question that there are much cheaper solutions to high-altitude cooling, as Judie pointed out. But if you have the money and the inclination, a portable compressor fridge is one of the nicest luxuries I can think of.